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Show WOMAN'S WORLD Familiarity With Pattern Uses Helps Fit Clothes to Own Figure By Ertta Haley I Burlap Fashions THE WAY In which you wear your clothes is Just as impor tant as the styles you have chosen Unless you are comfortable in a dress, blouse, suit or coat, the mos' fashionable garment will not giv you the poise and grooming yoi should expect. Many women avoid expensive alterations on clothes by rnakinr their own, and in this way they cat echieve both fashion and correct fit with the least amount of ex pense. Figures which are hard to fi' without extensive alterations cat readily be clothed with clother sewed at home, provided you know Just how to alter patterns to make them fit. So much ease, comfort and feel Ing right can come from clother that fit accurately that once you've treated yourself to a well fitter" garment, you'll never be satisfied with less. Not only will clothes do more for you, but you'll enjoy wearing them at well as showing them off to best advantage. Clothing which fits perfectly also al-so has the advantage of wearing better, but will require less care and attention than ill-fitted garments gar-ments simply because they wrinkle less readily and need less frequent cleaning and pressing. When you take measurements, remove any bulky pieces of apparel ap-parel so that you can arrive at Casual shoes and matching purse fashioned of burlap and simulated leather were Introduced Intro-duced as sun mates for warm weather wear. The rough textured tex-tured burlap gives a textured effect which Is both novel and new In the fashion picture. complished by laying paper underneath under-neath the pattern so you can make a dotted line Indicating the tapering. taper-ing. To shorten sleeves, lay folds straight across to take up the extra length. If the sleeve is very long, make one tuck above and one below be-low the elbow. Shorten the waist by folding the desired depth between the underarm under-arm and the waistline. Be certain to make the adjustment on each piece of pattern. Skirt pieces are shortened In the same way as the waist. In this case, have each part of the skirt shortened the same amount, and at the same position. This is particularly partic-ularly important so that pattern notches will match, and so that a gored skirt will fit well. When you are adding length rather than subtracting it, use the slash technique. Pin the pieces to a paper strip, or baste them to extra ex-tra paper if you want to use the pattern several times. Making slashes to give width or length and neclecting to pin to an extra piece of paper, may result In your losing the pattern pieces. If the pattern is not seperated and simply a slash made without pining pin-ing to extra paper, you may not get the required amount of extra material, as the pattern is apt to slin during the cutting. For a large arm, add the extra width along the edges, tapering from armhole to waist. If much extra width Is needed, cut pattern on grain line, separate evenly and pin to paper. Make Waist and Hip Adjustments Carefully For narrow hips, take off a little at the hipline on the side seams of the skirt. Make certain that the line is tapered to the hem so the skirt will fall properly. If only a little additional material is needed at the hips, the adjust- L'i accural mtasurtmenti ... your true measurements. If you wear a certain foundation garment, have this on when you whip out the tape measure. Keep the measurements on a handy card so that you may al-. al-. ways have them on hand. This card should be kept up-to-date with frequent measurement checks if you are gaining or losing weight. Make Adjustments In Pattern ICather than at Scams Essential line and style In a pattern pat-tern can be changed or lost only by shortening and lengthening at waist or hemline. Therefore, you see many alterations can be made within a pattern itself without changing the basic style. You may have fit plus style with internal pattern adjustments. Never be misled by seam, pleat and dart allowances. These should be cut, pinned and sewed as directed di-rected on the pattern or the clothing cloth-ing will not have proper fullness, slenderness or other features which make for good styling. Even if you need so little as a half ah inch in the bodice of a dress, don't try to get the necessary neces-sary extra room by failing to slash ment may be made at the side seams, tapering off at the waist and hemline. When more than a little lit-tle is needed, an even amount can be allowed along the side seam of the skirt from hip to hem. Properly fitted waistlines are required re-quired so that clothes will be comfortable. com-fortable. For heavy waistlines, add width to both back and front of the garment at side edges. Taper the extra width to both the upper and lower halves of the garment. When the figure Is heavy above the waist, lay the pattern over paper and allow enough for easy fit. The adjustment for this is different dif-ferent from adding extra width for a full bust, since this adjustment adjust-ment is made at the front only. The heavy waisted figure needs rtra material both in back and front. If the back Is round and full, slash waist lengthwise from mid shoulder straight down to waistline. waist-line. Lay on paper and pin. Slash across the fullest part of the back from center to back to the lengthwise length-wise slash to give enough ease. Cut the skirts from the waist to the hem and seperate as necessary. neces-sary. Narrow shoulders can be ad-Justed ad-Justed by taking in a tuck from the shoulder down as far as necessary. If the rest of the figure is large, slash bodice and skirt lengthwise enough to give extra width. How to Make Special Pattern Adjustments If you have difficulty fitting necklines properly, leave the neckline neck-line with extra material and trim this off when you are fitting the material to the figure. For the bust which comes rather low, adjust the waistline darts on the pattern, bringing narrow darts to the sides of the waist rather than to the middle. Make armholes comfortable by having them cut while material is on the figure. Then cut sleeves to fit armholes after the adjustment is made. to hate clothes fit perfectly. the garment. If you try to get the room from the seam allowance, the seam may pull open. When you repair the damage, you will actually actual-ly be making the garment so small it cannot ever fit properly. Clothes which are made too roomy are as poorly fitted as those which struggle to keep on your figure. fig-ure. When you place the tape measure meas-ure around yourself, do not pull tightly on it, nor let it fall too loosely. It should be so comfortable comfort-able you do not really feel it. and this Is the way the finished garment gar-ment should be on you. Accurate measuring and cutting of the garment will save both patience pa-tience and material. There is no need to make the garment a little large In the cutting to make allowance allow-ance for errors in sewing, for you will only waste material by having to trim off. Once the pattern is selected according ac-cording to the measurements, you may baste it together and try it on; or, make an inexpensive muslin mus-lin garment first and work from that to check fit. Slash or Tuck Patterns According to Needs If your bodice is shorter than the pattern allows, lay one tuck straight across the pattern. In this case the side seams may need slight tapering, and is easily ac- |