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Show FIBST-CXASS GOWNS. Speaking of the costly gowns worn by he rich women of Newport, brings me to an interesting talk thut 1 had with a tnan at the head of one of the largest dressmaking establishments In the world, with branches in London, aris, New York, and. naturally, Newport. We ere standing stand-ing near the Casino at the fashionable hour. It was the height of the season, and beautifully gowned women were arriving ar-riving every moment for the music and tennis. There they were before us, in gay and conspicuous groups, the much-talked-f and envied society leaders, dressed to bebe looked at and admired. And admiring, admir-ing, as befitted, we proceeded to discuss them, my companion speaking with the authority of a creator and dispenser of Styles. "Taken collectively," he said. They are the smartest gowned women in the world." 1 "But not individually?" I asked. "individually they sometimes lack distinction dis-tinction and the note of personal taste. They dress too much alike." "That's your affair, isn't it?" I suggested. sug-gested. "Well," he said, "we do the best we can. Of course, what you lack in this country Is a court and court functions, court dinners din-ners and court balls. You never find the best dressed women in a republic." 1 pondered this awhile, and then,, becoming be-coming practical, asked what It costs one ' of these ladies whose duty it is to sMne In Newport for her gowns. "Ten thousand dollars a year," he answered an-swered promptly. "We have clients who spend $12,000 a year, but 810.000 is enough. We have many who spend 87000 a year. It ' a woman spends only 80 a year we do not take her very seriously." "You mean 85000 for gowns alone?" "Of course." And I was left to Imagine I 'ya-hat might be the ladles' bills for hats, boots, lingerie, etc.. not to forget the sin-' sin-' . ueus automobile veils that were fluttering all about us. "How many new gowns does a smart woman need for the Newport season?" I , : Inquired. He thought a moment. "Counting everything, every-thing, about twenty." "And how much will they cost apiece? 1 "That depends on the number of hand- ' some ones. You can't get a really first- class gown from us for less than S5c0.' I protested that I had heard of first-class first-class gowns for less than that, bjt he shook his head. "We sell gowns for 1200 and make more profit en them than on those that cost 8600, but no ambitions society woman would think of appearing, say at an important im-portant dinner in a 8350 gown. It would injure her prestige." Then he gave me some Interesting details de-tails in the making of a 8oCO gown. It appears that a single yard of trimming used for such a gown may take five or six skillful girls (French or Swiss) an entire week in the making. The pattern, aay leaves or flowers, mast first be embroidered embroi-dered in silk with the finest stitches. Then it must be gone over again In tiny transparent trans-parent beads or different colors, perhaps In Thinestones. and finally the veins and stems of the leaves must be added one by one in colored threads. All this for a I yard of trimming. "How often would the lady wear such a gown?" I asked. "Five or six times." "And then whet becomes of Itr He shrogged his shoulders. "She gives it away or aells it. There is one very rich woman who has all her old gowns burned. She can't bear the idea that any one elae should wear them." Cleveland Moffet In I Success. |