Show i 1 G r f Iii i 31 J i jt s I J r r f t i S l doe e et t t t J y J S T W r r y i. i y J r J i j 1 s C rd 0 t f r B rY r f Y s P NF j f r rI y i i 1 e er i r r 30 r rEi 4 r r p I Ei J V y yv v im r t FASHION NEWS THIS SPRING WILL STAR GOOD TASTE f v j 1 t The floating panel style left modifies s- s the the slim look of the fJ y 9 L w n j. 1949 s spring rIn skirts The photogenic neckline above aboe e is new I z r r i r r A 4 Jl f 1 f i i I x r 4 JQ rr I WASP WAIST The new boned girdle will mean new w waistline treatment this I pring The tiny waist will stress femin femininity in all clothes NEW V YORK YORK Back Back to normal normal normal nor nor- mal is the happy watchword for spring 1949 The long- long legged high-bosomed high American figure is once more beginning to be wrapped in its most beguiling beguiling beguiling be be- guiling package the unfussy costume that is easy to breathe in easy to move in yet still pretty and feminine Not that were we're all due to be Varga girls with clothes on There is still plenty of distilled sophistication sophistication sophistication sophis sophis- imported in some col col- But the big news is the swing back toward simplicity simplicity simplicity sim sim- and American naturalness natural natural- ness A new double fashion standard standard standard stand stand- ard is apparent strictly tailored clothes coming in strong for daytime out all-out glamour on the increase for evening The small waistline is featured featured featured fea fea- but it looks more born than made Cinchers are worn and many dresses have boned bodices and wired bra tops but somehow that strangled strangled stran stran- look is gone Wide Vide sashes wrap the waists of many summer summer summer sum sum- mer dresses with long wide ends that float Shoulders are usually very lightly padded but look completely completely completely com com- natural The top-seamed top sleeve is the favorite but there is future news in big swirled sleeved truly Gibson Girl Big Clever cape jackets as illustrated above will star in fashion fashion I this spring Overskirts pictured at right will take all shapes f j. j i. i FASHION NEWS New Style Trends Are Shown cuffs everywhere with perky outward flares which one designer designer designer de de- de- de signer calls spinnakers for forthe forthe forthe the little sails on boats New Necklines Bosoms take the spotlight in all collections and fashion gives them daring revelation ranging ranging ranging rang rang- ing from a deep narrow V slashed from collarbone to midriff midriff midriff mid mid- riff to an out all-out expose of shoulders and bosom flatteringly flattering flattering- ly framed with a deep cuff of fabric Contrariwise little schoolgirl schoolgirl schoolgirl school school- girl collars cardigans big flat bone buttons boleros and sash waistlines give youthfulness youthfulness youthfulness youth- youth to this springs spring's clothes Skirts look slimmer though many measure just as full as last year ear The answer is in new ways of cutting so that the fullness is invisibly controlled at the hipline and sides There are deep flat double folds fore and aft which flow out into great width at the hem The newest silhouette is umbrella umbrella umbrella um um- brella shaped or mushroom shaped with a sharply flared little top above the shaft of a dress below This shaft type ype dress is often tucked up into a peg top or peplum fold at the front but clings close to the body at the back f Built- Built in capes which mysteriously disappear disappear disappear dis dis- appear as part of a dolman sleeve are a new aspect of the umbrella silhouette The starchy look of ot fabrics whether silk rayon light worsteds worsteds worsteds wor wor- shantung cotton or lace is paramount in all collections Every silhouette looks sharply defined and crisp as a paper doll Tissue weights in taffeta faille wools and are tant f Organdies plain or in exquisite Swiss embroideries or are seen in good- good to enough party dresses Novelty weaves In wool such as nobby dots woven in multicolored stripes and tricots Return of ot crepe de Chine is marked for the first time since the All AH Materials Linens and textures are everywhere in luscious colors colors colors col col- col- col ors and lavish yardage in marvelous shades tailored severely or draped and shirred extravagantly e Unusual Unusual Unusual Un Un- usual combinations such as pique with fabulous lace embroidered embroidered embroidered em em- broidered organdy with satin or taffeta organza with mink natural shantung with leopard Nylon seersucker Is news and the use of for a golden glint in wools spun and cottons continues The influence of rich Indian sari embroideries is seen in medallions and borders embroidered on spun rayon evening dresses The effect of two fabrics combined tweed-textured tweed linens shantung- shantung textured taffetas often in iridescent iridescent iridescent iri iri- descent colorings Sweetness and light is literal literal literal lit lit- eral in colors Sweet pinks soft greens and a blue that is al almost almost almost al- al most white natural cocoa and androse androse androse rose beige far outdistance all other colors Navy blue is the unchallenged favorite among the dark tones In fact all the blues from frost pale to midnight are tops this season Some violet violet violet vio vio- let some oxford gray combined combined combined com com- with natural linen a good deal of oran orange e from pale cantaloupe cantaloupe canta canta- loupe to deep deep cinnabar and Halloween red Prints are in the minority and mostly small compact and often tone on Polka dots are rife and sometimes three different sizes are used together JIo r f. f I i J i- i df d l 4 iI I S b F r f if r j I Z J r 4 M r 1 y t. t Ci I i j Ir c y bt X r f o Yo Warn J Jr r aY SLEEVE NEWS The sleeve is a highnote high highnote highnote I note of fashion In spring song |