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Show Ualemais Uapderiis, ojjd 1ncidunts ok koki3ign travi2u and . . . ohsi:kvation . . London, I'eb. is, 1893. One of the most dehghlful esperlences of my wanderings In Italy was a night passed u ith the clnrcoal burners In the mountains moun-tains to the north of I lorence. At the village of Tosl I looked up the mountain ol I'ratomagno and mw lines of blue smoke In feathery penciling against the dark green of the massed mountain firs "Those are the carbonari They never leave the mountain, save on feast. d.)s," salda kindly catrettajo. 'When they come to Tost for wine and oil, they are 10 black and dreidful our children run and hide Rut they do no harm " So with a vagarous Impulse of adventure, I turned aside from the paved mountain way, and with the cart mans son for a guide skirted the mountain, moun-tain, coming In a two hours tramp through dense forests of beech, chestnut and pine, with here and there a blackened black-ened opening where the trees his already been burned, or 1 tinny spice, where sportsmen ami shephereds im e the mountain birds, I came to the char coat burner scamp, and was hospltibly received for the night. These carbonari form a distinct claw in the mountains of Italy, 1 hey generally gener-ally live in the villages, tho wife ind daughters engaging in the vineyards, gathering olives or chestnuts, and oltcn as shepherdesses with small Hocks. The father and sons go from 0110 forest to another, as the owners desire charcoal made The landlord secures the felling and cutting of the trees, and the car bonaro simply attends to building the pjres and watching day and night their smouldering progress. In this labor the sons share, and regular watches are taken. I he logs are stood on ind in round piles of perhaps eighteen feet in diameter, covered and chinked with mossy earth ind then fired In a central hollow which has been filled with chips of dry timber, fir cones, chips from the logs and dead leaves and grass. Once well ablaze, this llamlng funnel is covered with moss and earth, and the pile Is left to smoulder for five or six davs When educed to cirbone or charcoal, the cailionaro delivers it to the owner, packed in sacks, two sicks comprising a donkey load, lor which he receives about ten cents, or about two dollars for each burning vteldlnz forty ticks. At this camp, an iinusuall) large one, a score or more carbonari were at woik;andas the turning was to be lor an extended period some six or eight of thecnibonarlhad built temporary hnts and removed their entire fimllles to the forest. Ihisgave life and plcturcsqueness to the tccne, cspeciilly at night. A few Iron cressets had been fastened to the tree trunks, and the crackle and darings of conet and knots lent weird colorings tn the motley groups of women with dulling du-lling teeth and eves, and men grimy and swarthy beond all description I could not repress the feeling that I was at my old wanderings with my gypsy friends again, and as the night gathered over the majestic forest trees aoovc, and one by one somestringelnstrumento music was produced Irom the shad iwy huts, while melody and dancing added their fascination to the wild, strange scene, a thousand recollections of days with the Hominy swept back on I'ratomagno's daikemd heights Deeper still grew this feeling as I was shown to a couch of fir branches for sleep It came not lor hours, for In tho gentle soughing of the firs, the calls of the watchers to each other, and hero and there through the camp, suppressed tones of melody ns those who witched f;rouped together and rrissuringly sang ow and soft the Slornelli of Italy, I wis with my v agabond friends by their witch Ing camp-hies in my own loved lanl When the morning c vme, alter a breakfast break-fast of pan unto, or bread fried In olive oil, and many a kindly 'nddio!" and "valel" fram my grimy hosts, I found my own way back to the friendly villagers of Tost The traveler In Inly will remember of Naples itself that it possesses no one grand predominating place, thing or characteristic of surpassing Interest This might perhaps be modified by saying say-ing it was n city of wonderful contrasts ol the tremendously rich and wofully Coot; of tl c oldest and best lialhn no dltyand the most wretched of titled adventurers, of dazzling beauty and most hideous haggishness In w omen , of most teirntd savants and the most sod den ignorince, of the highest virtue and the most disgusting lewdness, so shamefaced shame-faced that even male devils accost one everywhere with printed tarilfs for licentiousness, ol the litest mod's in dress and gaib among the lowly as ancient as the time ol Tiberius of fright lul activity and tropical siesta, ol dtalen lug din and solemn hush, of the shrillest and most ceaseless shileklm,sdiy and night and meanwhile the most sibilant and melodious of tender volclngs, of content and despilr, cruelty and Kind-heartedness, Kind-heartedness, loyally and treachery, and just as all Italy phvslcally teemed to be in a llowcr embowered heaven stnll (ng over a threnenlng volcinlc hell of laughing eed humans with hents in which the worst of human pisslons for ever brood, ready at an instint's kind! Ing for sedition, rapine or murder In every pirt In southern Inly vou will come upon a brnvd, grass-gown hlghwiv. It Is cillcdthe "Iraturo. ' lor twenty ccniurks It has served the same purpose On this ' traturo" occurs theyeirly spring exodus from the lower vallevs and coist wise moors nnd marshes to the Aputlin mountain sum mcr pastures. Initio autumn, hundreds of thousands return along the ancient wavs. During the winter the herdsmen and shepherds live In town hovels, or in huts ncirthe towns and villages. The herds and flocks are then driven out to and returned from daily K'anng But in the summer tim on the mountain sides Is the real ont-dooi 1 fe, of the guardhn of the rk and herds Whether he be herdsman goatherd or shepherd, he is usually civen charge or a llock or herd of from v to 100 animals. , , Theso folk rarely int-rmarry with other classes When th. y do they In-stantly In-stantly depart from the lloikt, arc ab sorbed In lower order of the cities, or become the most desperately hopeless of the human cittlelhit labor in the fiel Is. The prldf of their own descent, In the exdusivem ' ol their class, In the long line of shepherd ancestr) they can trace, amounts almost lo a passion Ills practlcaly the one pride they possess 1 his Isolation of blood and interests Ins preserved Interesting luces In plivsl-ognom plivsl-ognom Ihey re wonderfully Sira-ccnic Sira-ccnic In their lo k The tall, slender, supple figure, ll o oval face and shining skin, the neck tiny at the throat spreading spread-ing quickly an ! heavily in protuberant mulcel.i, like a broad butted tree, to the shoulders, the vellowlsh blue tinge of the white of 'he eve the distended nostrils, nnd the ditling teeth, nil pronounce pro-nounce the eai cm origin and retained physiological afbnltles. S ralght as an arrowjlhls shepherd Is clad hum lie ut to feet in undressed skins. A bilurrated gaiment of lm-tanned lm-tanned hides, fashluncd after the pattern of that one sn well known to meiltan dress reform ladies forrrs a sort of wilit-. coat and trousers 1 imbmcd The latter are opened at the sides, below tl e knees often displvvin., gudy buttons orna-menting orna-menting the s 0 of his hall gaiter, tin 1 dressed tkln beo Over hiswalstro.it Is a long, loose armless Jacket of hide, I provided with numbrtless pockets, his 1 rainproof storehi use of meager treasures treas-ures A Jaunty, brigandish hat sets I perkily upon his fine curly head, and bilngs Into striking relief his olive skin his large, grave eves nnd crinkly, curly beard. Slung from his right shoulder across his leu hip byn bruid bind of hide, with occ islonally the priceless triasure of n polished brass or bronze buckle, Is the Inseparahlv cipsclla or shepherd's pouch A rusty carbine, which Is never discharged or a stout stall ns high as his lue m but nev cr the shepherds crook of olden tales and modern tableaux tHMwr complete the picture- And it Is always 1 picture, lor I this fellow w th the face of an nposile nnd the evesofn silnt Is so dellcloiisly languid and Inexpressibly lazv, lint his I splendid form Is forever In pose nnd ' repose. Nearly every shepherd of southern Italy is married lie marries young, He rears, or rather there grows, seemingly seem-ingly all unconscious to himself, 1 large fimily. The sons many other shep herd a daughters, the daughters, other shepherd's sons Himseltierliips horn In the griss by the side of thc'Vituni," hi a clclt of some rock in the ed;e of 11 torrent's gravini, or In some low hut on hill or moor, he emerges from childhood 10 manhood a nomad, is a nomad li youth and manhood, he mates as n nomad, and never ceases n nomadic life until the quicklime of some village , Campo banto consumes Ills bon s. bo that to every flock belongs!) family, I the tatterdemalion group possesses I no home but that of the duly grazing- I land of the llock Their solo possessions possess-ions never cquil five dollars In value. Their total ciinings do not exceed eleven cents per day. I.Ike Wallachian Gipsies Ihey squat anywhere for rest and sleep, and eat anvthlng that will sustain life. II they posses 11 single arpirition on earth. It Is that secret one of so many other Inilan field and moor laborers to take to the hills that Is, to become outright brigands Universal Indolence and repugnince to effort ore safeguards against this. The Apullan shepherd himself Is a plrturesque fellow enough, despite your consciousness of his vacuous Ignorance, his unvirylng cruelty to his flocks, and his utter sodden, rather than active, brutality to his wife and children, who serve as his pack-mules, pack-mules, like the American squaws, for transporting Ids slender belongings to the lulls. On tho mountain sides the life of this shepherd famhy Is a changeless one the whole summer long, unless the terrible lull storms of southern Italy fall upon the mountains, or the still more destructive- wind storms that frequently fling both shepherds and flocks Irom the crags to deith, come whistling over peak or howling through gravlna. Then the human marmot awakens from his lethargy and accomplishes prodigious feats of strength and wondrous acts of valor, In rescuing endangered members of the llock or of his own p-rrified hroed Ills food Is polenta nnd clieslmit Hour bread He Is the one Italian who drink. water Instead of wine Ills held lore, tnough unconscious to himself him-self Is marvelous When spurred by extreme hunger, all mountain mooilaud birds aro doomed where he sets his mire. It is u wild strange, melancholy land he looks down upon, If he has the energy for looking His wile and children around hlmnroas voiceless as himself and his Hocks. The very melody of the sheep bells becomes a meaningless dm One carries away from his environment and companionship companion-ship with him only a pathetic sense of his hopelessness and degradation ou I can only remember him as another anl-! anl-! mat in hiiryhlde, Insensate to the truui-I truui-I petings of cternil niture around him 1 Pie sheep lirowjln at his tide are his equal in Intelligence, his superiors In demonstribla forces nnd activities. The lone kcstril wheeling above this Apullan shepherd hat a wider horizon of view. Those who care for the flocks of Piedmont, Pied-mont, I ombardy nnd radiant Tuscany aroadifkrent folk of whom a sunnier picture can be driwn. In the 1111I11 they are the little children and souths and wlvesol nllthopensintr). In northern and Alpine Inly the bevuty of thecltlcs, qualntness and peicefuluess of the villa t,es mid hamlets, the radi nice of the valleys and the noble plciurciquencss of the forests mid mountains, scuii to have l,lvciia rillrctlve peaerlulncss, sunnl tics and even vinlii) to the people I he shepherd Is alwava onset the villagers, vil-lagers, lie or she shales their everj-day everj-day life Ihe feists, espousals, marri ages, funerils, all are theirs for enjoyment enjoy-ment and cimteinplitloii Neirly every family has its own llltlu llock Often r-evcial of these are merged Into n larger , lloek and taken to tho highest muun tiln lands for the entire summer In such cases n shepherd and his family accompany them, nnd they live much ns do their kind In Apulia In October Ihe tame llock will lie driven to the moors nnd marshes of Marcmitie, where the shepheidund his lamilv subsUt almost entuclv on snared wildfowl which conies here In myilids U escipe the winters ol the Ilritlsh Isles, the Ildtic regions and the (terman forests Hut tins of thousindsof little flocks led by tens of thousands ef Utile shepherds shep-herds and shepherdesses leave the village grcggla or sheep-fold and home every morning for thu higher glides, bomctlmes 1 dog, often a pig trained to herd the flock, goes with them If a maiden has charge of the flock she will have her splnd e or knitting, and will work and sing and tend her flock the whole day long. If a lad or stripling lead a flock, he will let the pig or dor tend the sheep, with an occasional moment of executive observation, and the rest of the day lie gathers mushrooms, mush-rooms, hunts the young of birds, all of which are eigerly eaten save those of the swallow and hawk, snares lorest fowl, or pipes on his flute in Idle lantasy, llolh must bring a bickload of ferns, grass, oak, elm or vine leaves, with the llocks at night borne of this Is lor temporary use, but the winter store Is thus chiefly gathered I hive counted more than 100 ol these I ttlo flocks de scendlng from the mountilns with the shepherds at eventide Thevillejs are volcehil with thousands of tinkling bells, with the notes from hundreds of shep herds' llutc-s, with thet7of scores of shepherds songs Then as theshadoivs fall softly upon the hamlets, comes the housing of the sheep In the greggla.aod tli pastoral yields 1 1 1 it prosaic, while Rivelli' and "Ncncla ' glin new strength for the morrow from iheir bnw I of steaming polenta ur porridge ol cruehed white beans The fairest possess on of all ltalv Is sunny Sicllv. ct Sicily has no homes for the lowly ol the countr) sides ns wo know nnd lovo even the lowliest home. Nearly nil Sicilians are serfs or the few Doubtless 3,500 coo souls out of blellv's entire population of j,sS 000 Inhabitants Inhabi-tants hoi 1 this elation 11 tho nobility, governing cluses nnd ecclesiastics An infinite compsj-sion fires one's hcirt for the hopelessness of such a people and when interest In tremendous mtiiril pticnomena, classic regions nnd sis ml age remains lessens, the pathetic tide of hie begins to possets mil hurt you Any laud boasting no progressive farm-ln, farm-ln, population, ni -.ters of Hie soil the) till, or without a fairly contented peas antiy possessing securennd well detuicd rl;hts In Heir holdings, it doomed lo desertion mid deciy In the cntlro length and breadth of this Island, fro 11 the highways not half i hundred 'farm houses' will be seen These nru not farm-houses as we know them l.ich is n dcKolite stone itructure, inhibited by the famll) of some soprantendente nr overseer, where toolt arc stnrrd nnd in the busiest scisomof ltbor igmg of wolfish ficcd men and women arc fed on slops and herded nt night on stone benches for sleep The utoiitinaro or mount linccr, Ihe more or ploughman the pccuriju or &hepherd, the vUimjo or vinedresser, the vcudcmmialore or grape pathercr, the mlltere or reaper, an (every minner of hununnnimil tint labors with llocks or in vines ard or field, is In fact a coutiillno or villager living In low and poisonous hovels In cities or hamlets, from out ol which hollow c)cd crowds pour before da)-light munch Ing their food ns they drag themselves to their flocks in the mountains or their toll In the vine) ards nnd fields I DOAK I.. 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