Show PARES STYLE SHOW REOPEN k kR R American Buyers Bayers Independent Ii D tJ II BROWN MOST POPULAR SHADE I I Scores of Beautiful Models Wear No Corsets it Displaying New Gowns of Soft Materials With Flounces and Panniers ARIS Aug 15 P Paris Paris' Paris Paris' ris' ris first real display of or styles since the war began 1 P PARIS being attended by about American buyers who however are sho i t tIng Ing lug themselves to be bo more Independent of or the dictates of ot French re remaking making than ever before dri Brown according to the new models Is again In marked favor tavor So materials are used generally and flounces panniers and the design of new models tend toward the strictly feminine appearance There Is not slightest suggestion of ot the masculine a tailor-made tailor effect of the past t Paris Is clinging to the skirts hanging seven to eight inches from t American buyers the dressmakers say are ridiculing the shor short 1 ness ess s of ot the gowns although ough admitting American skirts have been too long It Is said to be bo likely American women women wo wo- wo- wo men will be offered a compromise In lengths One ot of the prominent American Ameri Amen can en n buyers said today that no well vell formed woman looks well in a really long skirt and It cannot be graceful but he laughed at a dressmakers dressmaker's suggestion suggestion suggestion sug sug- that Americans want long skirts because American women do donot donot donot not have pretty ankles ANKLES ARE PRETTY American women have the prettiest prettiest prettiest pret pret- ankles and feet 1 In the world the buyer replied and they also are the best shod but they realize that th extremely short skirts are ridiculed ridiculed ridi ridi- and they believe In moderation I Although the Americans American designed their own styles to a great extent during the war they apparently are finding much that Is worth while In Inthe inthe inthe the Paris display rooms Brown the buyers say is shown In scores of various shades shades brick brick terra cotta and burnt biscuit There also are shown soft shades of ot gray raven blue tete de and moles NO CORSETS WORN Scores of or beautiful models who are displaying gowns In the drawing rooms of or the celebrated dressmakers do not wear weir corsets and make every effort to preserve the soft sort contour of ot their figures The styles generally show a a. slight fullness on the hips in the form of ot soft oft panniers with pleats and accordion accordion accor accor- dion pleats pleats' Flounces are applied In such a way as to preserve the outline of or the figure and the straight hem of ot the skirt Collars are high In many cases and If Ir cut open are adjusted so they may maybe maybe maybe be buttoned close to the throat Woo Wool embroideries flat and metallic ribbons of ot a leatherlike texture form the trimmings for tor afternoon afternoon afternoon after after- noon frocks the majority of or which are made with coats to match These coats are trimmed with such furs as mole monkey kolinsky muskrat and skunk MATERIALS ARE SOFT All materials are soft and where are Introduced they are set seton seton seton on linings of or chiffon to insure supple lines Velveteen soft sort serge velour de tIe delaine lame laine chiffon and plush are used with great grea t effectiveness In gowns and costumes cos cos- Coats with afternoon costumes costume's s come Just below the hips and follow Dick Turpin lines lineR by m means ans of ot a girdle or gauging Skirts ar are narrower at the feet teet giving a peg top suggestion Fur collars reach to the eyes American buyers say they are having haying hav hay ing almost a 0 battle with Parisian dressmakers over the backless backle s evening gowns offered which the Americans are Insisting on having filled In with lace to the amazement of the French designers who protest that women I should be allowed to display their well formed backs HATS FRAME FACE Soft Sott net tulle and lace are used extensively extensively extensively ex ex- ex- ex over and chiffon for evening gowns and trimmings of gold threads jet silver tissue Us- Us sue chenille and plush are much used The Tho plush in these trimmings is I worked up op to represent ent soft sott fur Black I r rand and gold haven blue mole and dna mon are the prevailing tones for tor ev cv ning gowns but delicate do blues and pinks with silk e are aro shown often otten for young girls Mar Man a t I gowns of or gold tissue are displayed display Hats for fall faU and winter ar are belarge bo be boCi large and small but In all 1111 i frame the th face tace Velvet is the motI mot mot met popular fabric for hats and will be of ot ostrich feathers ospreys ad I nonkey furs I a |