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Show " IN A WUKU 1 M IUMemais Uapderiis, ODD INCIDENTS OF KOKKKJN TKAVliL AND . . . ODBKRVATION, TM'tl,nlwrtiiii.lhliliri.j-.l!lwi..rllt.i..-MliiMii-Wny Li wsirdsnorili's iililm llonir.-sii liilerf.llnie I.hiussI.Ih- l'oiiiian.-Miii, .,..,.. .ml tlbsrl (rsallrr. M ln.le.llrlll.iK l.jr -sMIse HUnUn. I loinoi.Jan. 6, 1S93. It lias ln I I pretty well scllled by literary ferret I that Gray nctunlly compoeil a tioillon II H not the whole, of Ms Immortal I'.lerfV, I while sitting In the south poidi of the I 0J Siol.c I'oses Church, beneath the II "vewlrec's shade." I Ills one of my favorite tramps from H Undon to lliUipot in tunny weather, H as there is hardly a tweeter or more restful pHcc ln "II I'.nghml; and I line H to tit where Cray sit, beneath the cvv I tree's sliiilv, mid nunc on the quiet unl HI hallowed tiirroundhiRt. ln this way Iho Hj famout yew -tree of Moltc l'oes church-H church-H jard has come to possess for me a most Hj loving and precious interest. There's J w rcconl of lit nRCj but as It was nl-HJ nl-HJ ready .1 tree of mature rrowlh when HI Cray wrote, In a churchyard between HI 400 and v eart old, lit antiqiilt mtiu Hj teconiderable even for the jew, which HI la England attains to most venerable If It ttandi fifty feet south of the old HI none south porch of the church. Its HJ lop has been repeatedly cut away to preserve the tree, which Is still about H tbny feet in height. The girth of the H trunk is 11 trifle uer niche feet; and lis H huge spreading branches, reaching to die north, almost touch thr roof tilinc of the church above the porch, while towards the south and southeast fully a I dozen branches, form fifty to sixty feet M Ion;, tw ecp to thu ground or softly tip the hetdstones of the ancient graves. I khould think tint from 300 to 400 persons coild ttind beneath lis gentle shade. fl If you were wanderlne north on the M win coach road from Windermere to Keswick, in the county of Westmore-M Westmore-M land, Knglnnd, u steep, wide roadway m turning tu the right and east would B attract your attention. I'rom the en- closures on rilher tide huge beech trees J and syc-imores push tremendous arms H across the wal's und completely coer H the way It Is as shadowy as twilight H here. Vou will not hive passed a score H of rods up this high arched nature's H aisle unlll the bounds from the highway the tumblii g nf the stages, thu Inugh-H Inugh-H ter of gay tourists, nnd even the noies H of the coscli horns are stilled. In summer the place Is thronged w llli birds. H Fven these Irreverent choristers seem as j If subdued ami ruminative here. In . nutum ) our feet sink in feathery misses of pile golden lraes. Itsremsalong fl time lhal)ou have been traversing these 7 1 g, few rods, nil is so hushed and still, f B olA, Ascending a little firther, there is a towiro hreakiu the foliage to jour tight. Some utmijohuge gates jre teen. A lodge Mauds Msteit .stbejund, and suddenly the splendid I sioUt-a ldis of Rydil Mall, the seat of the I Vim., '.e 1 lcmhi2s. ntwear above the luxur- J coiiDltT""11 shrubbery of id splendid pnrl.. H monthi' "".'"" kl1" " climb, nnd where the Hjgutwridark roid way teems to make a final HRitess f,c'rc'e cr the brow of the hill to the Hfttkci hi""' ou I'inse to listen. Something like HSraiyte, w ntul hesitant organ notei is mur-Hn(hcr,bu mur-Hn(hcr,bu lur'"K in minor chords, ulillr a g,iy nnd Hfi'Uh( )Oiih treble plays In exultant tones HMrs'rd' 'hove. Ahl ybu remimUr. 'I'levenre HH "I ho"'e'ce',0f thctwoiascadcsof Kjd.il Hn wuntry jf'elr sons were sung to the poet Htf 'fitlonf wrdsw orth for forty hippy j ears. H ''ImhIti i'ctween the I.lnlcdale fills nnd the HI WiitiulvVetmorelind hills. In the I.unc valley Hi c'tho(e of Lancashire, I ngland, In one of my trecvlb ,cccllt wanderings In the lakedUlricll The ittr came upon .111 Inuresihv Ilritlsh govcui-tttnt govcui-tttnt 0 menl olhclal, 1 his 0fl1ci.1l was a woman lu,i ou could not, nnd she would not, tell w hethcr she wjs forty or eighty j ears of ' ' age. In oilier rispects she was exceedingly exceed-ingly chitty and friendly, riho was 11 n, nearly six feet till. Her frame was like tnijt, n nun's, nnd so washerface. Hhecould otltuv ""tu ilk any jioman of the hills, nnd Hlllitri was firm and hard nslron. She wore Inj bob-mllcd bobtJ, n short heavy woolen Blilgg) tklrtof home spinning and weaving, nn ! tht under-jackit of corduroynndthegrotes. kinds i 'ue sliott skirted, red-sinped blue coit li, i. and regulation cap of the llritlsli post. October '"'m- Miloo u' I hiv r ptlde In my ow n achlev ements la loc as " walker, but I could not keep In 'MrtlcP'S0'.1'1 this worn in forn half mile, '"eutlve" c'orc ' 'ia!' PufTing nud panting, fillen "" Mnlsti"0'1"' her for rest nud runilniiionl Amtt(cind learned 1l1.1t this faithful body had ''PHnl: carried the Ilritlsh mails, often being r rnim "dm wllh from lifty to eighty pounds of lolrodua '""' r,lfcl'1 for delivery, over twenty 1 Hn nn, miles cmy weekday for the pist 'I'rulaenlvone jeirs. As I sat on 11 rock ;iill. oj the roadside thinking the matter T the jover, us the disaupeaied with a fine Mlol.iej (Strong ttrlde that I envied, 1 could not JsdeleMthelpligurinE, out Willi my stick. In the "mtttlrfhalky dust of the stony road lint thu When tll,JlJ already walked nearly the distance Miles sfiV' nve limes the eailh's circumference ',' dillufor 5I,B Pittance of ten shillings per Wilno lniwe. or hut JjjS for the entire term of Inilujflwentl-one jcar's drudgeryl Jral At A iew mornings tlnce I heard some litlntlc, Prideful conversation between "cherrj" "Ulilied j-ondon cosiermongers nnd Couvtnt .. VVdc." Porters, which I afterward found nYalo be true, showing that two of the most ..-Hccri,miiu1,J,,R"-,ra London Ins ever known, f,"rtioon TCJCnecl f inie tlirouRh Iho peculiar and "t'lsn i'",1 training orlglmlly secured among Mils. ththe lowly of their Ilk. Albert Chevalier, dralniM nuw " greitest of living character hn-Jouia hn-Jouia 'Jtrsonatort, pnellcally lived among the i,"1' iW '?'. ie4r ani1 llle marvelous ftltT adellty of his tongs and Impersonations k coster life uud character were wholly 1 gained In this manner. Sims Reeve", the one tenor who for nearly lull .1 century held all the song lovers of Britain Bri-tain cntltvtd, ones ' carried trie knot," that Is, the head pad. of a Convent O u-den u-den porttr, and got his sinrt ns a tlntr in tl e former foul dens within Ihe suuud of How bells. When jour tourist fincy Icidsjou into Scotland, go further. It Is but a Utile sea Jaunt Irom Aberdeen, Peier-bead Peier-bead or Wick In thu Miitlaud Is! imK Their people are very hospitable, possessing many plcismt ancient ens toms, niicl Ihere is no end 10 modern historic nud pagan monuments of strange and curious Interest. Not the least ol jour pleasures there will be witnessing 11 "drive o' cVing whiles," which jou are almost certain to do, If jour visit to the islands happen in Msy or June. The 1'eterhcid nnd other whaling ships formerly completed their crews nt Lerwick, aril these times were nlwnjs periods of great nctlvltj. Of late jears hhellmd's Interest in whaling has liten principally confined to driving the monsters mon-sters ashore. Tnls exciting wi rk Is often tremendously profitiblc. In 1S45 n great third of I5J0 "ca'ing" whales were driven ashore In (Juemhle Itiy. the toutliensternmost buy of Shetland, laving lav-ing between Sumberg nnd fitful Heads; and In June, two jiars ago, a shoal ol several hundred was successfully landed on the east coast. Until quite recently these shore whalers wha-lers were Illy requited fur their captutes. The financially omnivorous limllord, called Ihe "laird" here, true 10 his octopus Instincts, claimed the right, up to IKJ9, totaxlhepoorShethndersone half ot ihe entire proceeds nf all whiles driven Into shoal w ater opposite, or upon the shores of, their domains, "n sort of ripirlan right on Ihe Almighty or what was tent to save men irom ttarvatlon on account of rents nnd other burdens Imposed Im-posed by the 'laird' himself," an old Shell inder explained to me. At the value of the blubber will nver-age nver-age f jo per Ion, the "laird often thus tccuied from fJ.oco to 5000 us his "right" In a single catch, 1 rum 1 Sjy to jiW the 'lairds" were considerate enough to rob Ihe w tillers ot but one third. Ill .September of lint year the cliini was resisted in the courts, the w balers won their cause, and the "lairds" hive tlncu been compelled to content themselves with the meager enjojment of witnessing, rather than profiling by, Ihe hazardous work. When a drove of "ci'ing" whales appear on the coast, the rews spreads like oil drops on marble. As the w hole town of St. Ives, Cornwall, goes mid when a shoal of pitchers Is sighted, to does every live Siieilauder, desert every other vocation, even Ion wedding, tu join In the "drive. " A rush Is uncle by the men for Ihe boats, while women and children wildly culled guns, aiuniiimtlun, harpoons, tcjlhes, lances, knives and even bags of stone, indeed an) thing tumble w lilch may assist in the hoped-for hoped-for destruction. ' The whalers make nil haste and splendid cunning In getting between the-whales the-whales and Ihe open sea. Their fleet of all manlier of craft then gradually closes In upon the pack" or "drove, directing by the splendid maneuvers of the ddlercnt boits the course of the whiles ton shallow biy So expert are these Shctlind wlnlersiii driving tint 11 shoal of whales Is seldom lost, ifilmc is given for lurmlug the "drive" well outside out-side the 'drove." If the whiles onie enter thu chosen I ay, their purucrs conic to close ipntlers, and then the conflict begins. I hiding the water becoming shallow the terrified whales endeivur tu mil. lor thu open tei, but arc met .11 eveij point by fl perlcct will of boits, alto gcther filled with hundreds and sometimes some-times thuus inds of men seemingly desperate des-perate in their efforts nt cjplure, and Ihe howling, shoutln', tcre immj;, lashing of the water, dlsclnrglng ot firearms, stone throwing, uud rushing to and fro of the equally desperate whales, form as exciting iisieiiuus one ever wltncss-d outside n genuine field of battle, decision de-cision illy n lew break through the line anil escape. As a rule Ihe school is doomed. Once driven Into shoil water where they cm only flounder 111 mighty struggles, or high nnd dry on I ml, when: they oiten toss themselves in llp-ir mid ciruits to itcape, their buichcrj, which is always a siv.igu and sickening tight, proccc s wllh woml'rlul dispatch ln the'r bloody work the Inrdy nnd powerful Shetland women tike a gleeful and almost frenzied pari. The dripping thing they call a river, the Mmranares, at Madrid, Spiln, comes down from the cold, gray heights to the north, and winds half way around Ihe city from the northwest to the southwest, What water Hows through It. breaks In sindy shillows. forming Innumerable islands and curiously hounded strips of lind, all accessible at most seasons bj any barefoot boy or girl, and it is not an odd fact that though there arc two vast and pretentious bridges across It, the I'uente do Segovh, nearly o feet long with nine arches, designed by the architect archi-tect I Icrrcra, nnd the l'lieute de '1 oledo, nearly 400 in length, crowned by the statutes of Sin Isldru and Ids holy wife, its sole use to the city of Madrid is thai of nn endlessly used and all sulficlent wash-tub. Ten thousand women soak nnd splash nnd souse and bent the linen of Madrid w ilhln its scant waters ev cry d ly, Not nn niticle ol clothing Is elsewhere washed. No other Ihau these Minzau-ares Minzau-ares lav anderas are permitted to labor tu laundresses, and lor three miles up and down the streim, from oppoilte the Infintry and nnlllery tmrncks upon the Indents ol Montana del I'rincipel pist thevvlnddws ol the qun regents apart-menu apart-menu In Ihe royal pal ice, mid circling mound uwity beyond Toledo Cute, the moving dots of rid and blue, yellow and gray, comprise this gieit army of Ama rons with arms and l-gs 011 them like I tree liunkt; with volupu ius bre ists and 1 thnptly rii-cks, bird musclid nnd I bronzed as lurks, the most niduous lui-' lui-' ler, tile wlckcdist bluk ginrds, nnd witlnl the sunnltst tempered souls in Spam. There are three grades In this labor. They nre the mistrisses, or nmas, Ihe overseers or .lyudanlns.nnd thelnvande-ras thelnvande-ras themselves. All are women 'Ihe hrst nre the agents who receive the work Irom the Hotels, gnat housts.ntul the city agendas, in hug lots, and are icspuusibic for lis sale return, life njiidiiilss or oversecis are really the foicwominol from 1 dozen 10 a core of livandcras eich, and Ihej nte responsible respon-sible for work placed in inclr hands by the amas At live In ihe morning, winter nnd tunimer, ihe- lavnndcrns will be teen, many of Hit 111 with children trundling Lcsidc them, creeping along liom Ihe barrios abajoior lower ijuancrs ol the city towards ine Minzinares. Near the river is an asilo or asylum, a rclugc lur their children. Ilcra Ihe lavanibra lint deposits her chirges where they have food, care and training tree, until she returns for iho Utile ones at night 1 hen she t tunters to n enta de lav anderas, nr cheap vvnshfrwoiuan's inn nnd takes licrcopeta ol bnnd),or cup of coflec, nnd at unce rcnilrs to her own baucu, or Utile washing-box or station, provided for cacti washer. Uy six o'clock you might count Irom 5000 10 Hooo ol these strange creatures at woik. 'I he entire sloping, sandy banks urn covered with dtjing-polcs. At this time of Ihe year the water from the mountains is of Icy temperature. lint it seems 10 mike 110 difference with their labors. Here nnd there are huge cauldrons uf boiling vv iter. I rout lime to time a trifle olilili Is poured in the little hollow where each 01 p tods in the sand And water, but this sc-ms 10 be done more Irom habit Unit mcesslty. Kach lav-nndcra lav-nndcra brings her own huge roll of bread, perhaps a bit or cheese, a clap knife to prevent undue liberties from the straggling soldiery near, ns well as to use in cutting bread, and, Juvt before noon, they bicnklast in huge wooden theds on silt lidi, potatoes nnd eolfeu with a measure of red wine provided by the nma, duplicating this meal ns a dinner, at four In Ihe afternoon. They cat like animals, and the moment their food Is disposed of, the tinkle of the guitar is he ml, and yon or any kindly disposed passer may dance with Hum, as I did, until Ihe Jo minutes allowed Ihcm for food and relresco have expired On these occasions every one dances, girls of eighteen anil women of eighty, and the scencsalongMauranares nre very picturesque and Interesting. Hut when I tell yuu tint one of these Iro.i framed wenches must wash and dry, ready for thu "starching," which is done bj ihe crl.iJ.is In the city, jilccci, of linen equaling the cleansing of 70 sheets; In oidt r to earn 3 cents a dij , ihe poetical sense in it all Is with tho Interested onlooker, on-looker, rill cr than with the drudging lavandircsof thu Manzinaics. , L'ur.vK I.. WAkJUtsX. |