Show I RIO Rm lOSER LOSERe e fim H nun BASIS Financial l Failure Attributed Attrib- Attrib to Absence of matlon mati n non on Be Beauty uty and Climate Cl of S. S A. A City Ci Cis y s By ny KARL w. w Staff Correspondent Coire the Detroit f. f x RIO THO Dr JANEIRO Nov Noy 2 The Tho tact fact that the tha Brazilian Centennial Exposition which gloomily closed Us Its last month had to be bo accounted a a financial failure is unIt un un- t It was a good exposi- exposi Uon m it was well enough advertised 1 was held in the city that for forter forter lter ter suitability as an exposition site makes every other town in the orld look like JIlo the Chicago stocks stock stock- ras rd rind And yet not half the num- num I s of ot people that that had had been expect Ind nd prepared for came to turn ne 16 B There are only two reasonably reasonable explanations ex- ex for 1 for the unfortunate out out- outcome Nome come of the big show One is that j eople people did ld not know lenow it was at Rio lUo The he other Is that people did not know what Rio Is like lUte The Tle latter is backed b by the tIle greater great great- er et weight of ot evidence e for since the deposition closed and all the visitors visitors vis vis- went home a larger number of foreigners h have vc descended on Rio Jlian lilan ever before Hotel keepers ay y the number of American tourists tour- tour In town surpasses passes all records the tho people who did come cometo f to p the exposition have nave gone home and told everyone who would listen to them what Rio really Is like TV If It these there the e people have laVe any reputation tion for tor veracity Jn In home communities communities com com- the whole world will I soon oon he ho coming to Rio de Janeiro Only th the bare truth Is needed to paint this city In Its true colors colors colors-as as a superlative place place- for human beings t to dwell or visit in Somebody said It Js is only the the i 1 better That Is an exaggeration other places undoubtedly undoubted Iv have justas Just Justas as fond Weather especially lly in summer sum sum- mer er wh n n everYone in Rio who can afford a railway ticket goes up on 1 the hills to iu live me But in winter tn the I writer has seen visiting Californi- Californi Californians ans hang ng heads in shamed a at the thou thought ht of ever having men mep mep- mep irn clImate that os 1 Los S Angeles even had had a a IS FINKS FINKS' The most obvious thing about abou Rio Mt de Jan Janeiro and the thing th the outside it world knows best beat about 1 it I lh is the bay baJo Everybody Jy Knows that tha the Da Bay rc ot of Rio Is V. V VOne One ot or the lineal finest f. f and most beautiful ul harbors arbors in th the theTO i rid r TO It Zt Jf is certainly the most mos a i beautiful setting for I a sea coast city that can be found in tit the geographies When the first Emperor o of 01 Portugal was told about it h he heI burbled over with enthusiasm am and I rl named ft i. i the gd then c colonial l n villas village Leal l de dec do Sao s Sebastiao Sebas Sebas- tiao do Rio do de Janeiro When Pedro I later the first emperor o of Brazil came Caine and an viewed It with hi his his own eyes ees he saw saty that that-an that an Injustice had been been- done and he ho ren renamed th the I Iown city Multo Leal o e de ue Sao Sebastiao do Rio de Janeiro which means oc course Very Loyal Loya and Heroic City of Saint Sebastian of the River of January When Providence gave the Bay o of Rio to Brazil It imposed a tremendous tremendous dous obligation on the country The Th Brazilians have been loyal Joal to the trust It is not specially to their credit that they have merely builta built bull a city there for somebody would have been one there anyway But Bui they have done their best to build a a. city that would be In consonance wits its setting and they have succeeded suc suc- about 1000 per cent better for example than Detroit has done Bono with the Detroit river AI Al YS BEAUTIFUL E. There are plenty of cities that are beautiful from the water front side at night or when there isa a is a athin thin mist in the air all or when light conditions ns are Just right The rhe entrance en- en trance tranca to Rios Rio's harbor and the view of ot Rio from her bay hay are al always always always al- al ways beautiful The first experience experience experience ence of ot them is something that mat is never forgotten The writer saw them clearl clearly on a misty morning 1 Your our boat comes staggering stag in over the long Atlantic swell toward what appears on the dim horizon to be bean bean bean an unbroken wall of coast As the mist lifts lilts a little you can see the white spurt of the seas as they break against sheer cliffs of rock on your right and left and shoot high Into the air Mr Through rifts s in inthe inthe inthe the fog you catch glimpses of precipitous precipitous pre pre- mountains on either hand Then as you OU draw raw closer in where wind and sun have done their work the mist clears entirely and you see you are In the entrance It Is isa isa a a. trifle rifle over a mile In width Above you on the left lett towers Sugar Loaf a i solid boulder of granite 1296 Feet high according to the guide guidebook book Guarding the gateway on the right is another boulder nearly as high with a a. flaw in Its smooth face of solid living rock Ahead 1 of ot you ou across the calm deep blue of the bay lies Rio It seems to o fringe the very waters water's edge edge edge- buildings snowy white Vh against the f d blue foreground d red tile tille roots roofs buildings tinted in delicate shades of f coral pillars domes minarets 1 e tall all II graceful Je Nl palm m trees I It l Is beau beau- and bizarre Some people have hate paid It Is too fantastical but when you ou glance farther arther back at the gren wall of tropical mountains' mountains that hems it In Inin Inon inon on in on every hand you ou catch the motif they are serrated really serrated with great teeth here and there shooting skyward a couple thousand feet or more some bare smooth and grIm like SugarLoaf Sugar Loaf and some covered covered cov- cov ered ired with a luxuriant that at it at this distance loks Jolts thick moss noss There Th re are no mountains like them item elsewhere re In the world justis justas just RI as is there is other other- ba bay like that of RIo and nd certainly the city alty of Rio sUn such provocation Is lw hI entitled to tots its ts Its unique architecture architect re which ia is neither neither Christian nor nor heathen nor any ny any mixture of ot the two The writers writer's writers writer's writ- writ ers er's ers r's first Impression of the city from he the water was that it could coul have been een the original of ot the back drop displayed In one of Detroit's leading lead- lead ing ng movie theatres Nothing could be oe ie more gorgeous T DOESN'T DISAPPOINT Rio de Janeiro is one city In the world that does not disappoint No matter what a person has read or oreen been peen een told about bout it or what preconceptions pre- pre conceptions he has evolved out o of ofIs Is own inner consciousness no ones one iF s ever let down by seeing Rio Rio- In inthe the lie he flesh He will find It different I from rout rom his Imaginings of course butot but tot not ot disappointing The bay referring refer- refer ing ring to the guide book Is 16 na nautical miles mUes long Jong and antI 12 nautical riles illes wide and Is as blue In the sunshine as the aquamarines dug from rom ram the hillsides of ot the tine neighboring neighbor neighbor- ing ig ng state of Minas At other imes times It is an emerald an amethyst t or r a black pearl earl depending on the Ight conditions conditions and the the- number of cocktails It is big enough nough to provide pro pro- I vide ide anchorage for all the navies of f the tine world and still sUlI have room for a a. reconstruction of ot the battle batt e of Jutland It has as many armand arms arm and reaches a a alii ca a first baseman The minimum depth or water i ithe in inthe I i the t is s feet fec e and there is a minimum depth ot of 33 feet at the commercial quays are 18 warehouses electrical dock machinery floating steam steal cranes and so BO forth Rio has done dona were welt by her water wate waterfront front It makes the visitor think thin vindictively of the factory littered water fronts' fronts of ot North America Americas 1 cities clUes Even ven the commercial quays quay quays hidden though they are In an arnof arm arn of ot the tine bay are by no means unsightly un- un unsightly unsightly un un- sightly with their mole an and wharves of granite masonry ane an an anines lines ines of or waiting ships hailing from fron the four corners of ot the earth Th The remainder of the bays bayside Ide with th the exception of a short stretch given give over to presentable government an and commercial buildings is a driveway driveway driveway drive drive- way flanked on one fide Ide by agran agran- ite Ue sea wall and amI on the other b by pretentious hotels and residences It is such stich a boulevard as can b bo be seen Been nowhere else running alon along one side of ot the bay almost to th the Sugar Su ar Loaf and then ducking through a tunnel under a granite mountain to run for miles along th the beach of the open op-en sea seat in the suburb of Copacabana A CONTINUOUS PARK PARIC In the city city it u Is la a contInuous pa park parle Jf 15 r feet feet or more In ln width plan planted ed with royal and cocoanut palms palm and other tropical vegetation In the words of the Pan American Union bulletin The charm or th the tinted flush blush tinted bay on one side and o othe on the other gorgeously colored hills hill hilland an and high mountains about whose bases cluster white and delicately tinted and handsome homes set in like fairy-like gardens afford afford afford af af- af- af ford views that defy adequate do- do de de- And that's that t f and nd aregood are aregood ar argood good words to bear In mind In speaking about Rio There i is something Kubla Kh about th the city It is built in around behind between over and under hills is no Alph the sacred river or any other sized river-sized stream 1 in town Rio Janeiro having been a misnomer but tho the visitor is always alway half laIf expecting to find rind one aroun around the corner ot or the next hill hili You can never see all of Rio from one place even from the highest of or the neighboring neighboring neighboring neigh neigh- boring elevations ami and the visitor Is inclined to suspect that no on one has ever seen all of or it It I Hills lIllIs big and little appear herand here her and there in the midst of ot the residential residential resi- resi and business districts and the city clusters around or OV over ove r them and then meanders off oft up some unexplored hidden valley o othe ot of the surrounding mountains Little streets street zigzag dizzily up the side o oa ofa ot of ota a miniature Alp In whose existence you would never believe when standing in the flat avenue below They bad to a whole neighborhood of delicately tinted villas v III qs whoso whose dooryards go straight up and whose backyards go straight down A householder who can drop a ripe rip tomato on the back porch of his neighbor just by leaning out of hi his I garden is never safe sare from the of his other neighbors neighbor's son whose domicile is unaccountably ably perched d on the side d ot of another and and r higher i mountain a little bi bit away What with the bay the hills hillsand hillsand hillsand and the mountains there was no excuse for Rio Ulo making itself anything anything anything any any- thing else but bizarre and esque If a man can see the bay and the sweep of the Atlantic ocean of one front window and Finger of of God moun mountain aln out of the tha other who Is to blame if he e builds a replica replica rep rep- lica of the geb mountain n I oat orf top of his house and calls It a cupola a-cupola and then coats it if over with sky-blue sky tile tUe HAS SIAS CUSTOMS OP OF rants PARIS Rios Rio's uniqueness does not stop with its architecture It is certani- certani ly Iy y more cosmopolitan In its manners manners manners man man- ners than any other city in the Western Vestern Hemisphere Like Paris i It sits Bits at a table on the sidewalk to drink its small black cup or ot coffee cortee which It does every Svery very halt ball hour hour- during durIng durIng dur dur- Ing the business day dar It walks streets to the to-the the seashore In In its bathing suit like Atlantic City It trundles freight and trunks through the business section on ot wheeled two-wheeled hand trucks am and speeds at 60 50 or 60 CO miles an hour along the Avenida Beira Mar in its motor cars The principal al business street down downtown downtown town own is the Avenida Ro Branco a foot lOS thoroughfare a over overa a x mile long beginning an and ending in n the bay It was slashed straight through the business district In 1904 The work worle Involved the de demolition de- de of buildings and was completed in six months including tho ho planting of three rows or of shade trees rees and the laying of ot the Avenda's Avenida's Aven- Aven das da's famous mosaic sidewalk Crossing Rio Branco is the Rua do Ouvidor the best known shopping street In South America It is only 9 feet teet 30 10 0 Inches wide so narrow and ind lark dark that wheeled traffic is forbidden but its length Is la one continuous continuous con- con display of or costly merchandise merchandise dise Hse behind sparkling plate glass There Is another street downtown that hat is Just nine nino inches wide from curb urb to curb u its t sidewalk al are about o five ive r i feet e wire h apiece l Needless e e esay to say the wheeled traffic on this ave ave- nue nuo is not abundant but t P. 1 t who Ian h 13 who 0 never overlook I where the p picturesque Is haVe have curbed and asphalted the the nine Inch roadway as though It was wal nean mean to ton nine carry ton nine trucks These two streets the Avenda Avenda- and I the Rua Ouvidor are the tho meeting Place of fashion and frivolity Here the tho of Rio comes to shop for Its made gowns owns and ana hats I and its us made Brazilian shoes and stockings and underwear un and an al almost almost almost al- al most everything else Here opulent owners of coffee cortee fazendas and more or less opulent tourists tourists' Come como to spent their money lI II Here re the jeunesse doree comes to toV w PC-w V Its It particularly particularly par par- oats oafs among the theatres and the midnight clubs where the which Incidentally incidentally incidentally inci Inci- dentally is chiefly Imported direct from Paris i holds c court Behind hf all this and lt between It tt and the residential suburbs at the at-the the foot of the Chills hills where everyone lives who c can can h Is the old Rio It is isa a Jumbled may devil-may-care sort ot or district where the streets are near- near lv Iv all narrow and run this way and amI that at almost any an old angle It isa is isa isa a maze through which the pedestrian pedestrian pedestrian trian wanders bewildered 1 until he debauches suddenly and occasIonally occasionally occasionally occasion occasIon- ally into a neatly kept square or Park SA SAUSAGES OX ON DISPLAY Y Shops are generally open to the street and merchandise Is frankly displayed where it will have the best chance to be seen Festoons of varicolored sausages mountains of yellow and vermillion cheeses and bolts of ot brilliant fabrics half halt unrolled give the scene a holiday People In droves Jostle as they stroll alon along about their shopping and turning gravely or laughingly beg each otner's others par par- don Courtesy in Brazil is an Inborn in inborn inborn in- in born trait that insists on finding and seldom falls to falls to find an outlet A streetcar and trailer come clanging clanging clanging clang clang- ing by a scant 30 Inches from the precariously |