Show u v w vWi Y w DRESSy DRESS-y di1 r t N I 4 9 6 T r JA A ff Wfltt vtM t 4 a I r j tifb y9 Perhaps at no time In the past has there been greater diversity In styles and In materials worn at various functions func-tions Skirts are trailing of the short walking length or Just escape the floor they are empire princess glove or loosely fitting princess with no suggestion of the empire or they show the Louis coats with trailing skirts or elaborate coats and skirts or the severest of the tailored variety of the latter combination Velvet la especially smart in gowns and in coats whether tight or loose Hats as a rule are prettier than ever but some extraordinary effects are seen Although fur Is now so much used as a trimming for evening gowns and evening mantles I am of the opinion opin-ion that the latter garments are most effective and distinguished when made on very simple lines and left practically prac-tically untrimmed Of course everything every-thing depends on the dress with which the mantle Is to be worn If that be exceedingly elaborate the mantle or and vice wrap can afford to be simple versa Now that our evening cloaks aro always made to accompany some special gown we find them In many different materials and styles Perhaps Per-haps the graceful burnous Is about the most satisfactory and becoming shape The burnous wrap looks best when made of soft cashmere and lined with liberty satin or of supple satin and lined with a heavy make of crepe de chine Beautiful embroideries are arranged ar-ranged on tho fronts and hoods of tho cloaks of this genre The reign of the threequarter length tailormade coat has commenced com-menced brilliantly and now this delightful de-lightful garment ig 1 almost unbl qultous And all the best of tho new tailormade coats show rounded fronts In many cases the back Is longer than the front the sleeves reach almost al-most to the elbow and are semiJap anese In outline Tho white shirt waist can well bo I eschewed for the time being and a I shirt of crepe de chine to match the cloth coat and skirt costume substituted substi-tuted Instead A dark blue serge skirt and coat would be most effectively completed with a dark blue crepo do chine shirt made with broad tucks and spotted with white cotton Whlto frills at tho wrists and down tho center cen-ter of the front and outlining the col larband will If mado of very narrow nar-row and finely hemstitched lawn give the finishing touch justly recognized as distinguishing between the blouse of yesterday and that of today Perhaps the height of magnificence in dress Is reached In the evening gowns Embroidery appears on every frock be it Greek or Louis XVI There is a great craze for what Is known as Egyptian embroidery copies of old Egyptian conventional designs The Greek keynote pattern Is always effective In rich fabrics < < I should say most or time evening dresses have sleeves and although ii has been observed that there Is very little bodice worn In Paris just now there Is a good bit of drapery In the sleeve Tho bodice Is cut very low back and front for the most part square and filled In with pieces of heavy embroidery lace and tulle and the sleeve as I have eald Is a mass of drapery often covering the elbow but leaving the arm bare at the top or veiled with a transparency This draped sleeve Is a pretty fashion though perhaps not strictly classical Tho two frocks Illustrated In our largo picture are simple but elegant In design Tho first has a distinct Louis XV flavor It is made In apricot yellow yel-low satin shot with pink while tho draped fichu and center panel beneath be-neath are of gold filet lace embroidered embroid-ered In raised chenille with groups of autumntinted leaves The bodice points down the center In the front and Is cut short on the hips and the little undersleoves which the drawing scarcely shows aro of very fine net Dedicated to the use of the young girl Is figure No2 and It Is made of white satin with little pleatlngs of tulle peeping beneath broad bands of 11 wq o m r r A rvI I III Charming Afternoon Frock satin which arc held together by strings of pearls the skirt trimmed with the same decoration Tho whole idea Is expressive of youth simplicity sim-plicity and perhaps just a little Indicative In-dicative ot an expensive taste Not that when 1 come to think of It the purchase of a satin evening dress should bo termed expensive for expenses ex-penses today lie as much in the making mak-ing as In the material and undoubtedly undoubt-edly It may be granted that a satin dress will outlive two chiffon dresses And chiffon nowadays Insists upon embroidery as well as a lining of chiffon I chif-fon while net which Is considered a privilege for the thrifty will call I aloud for a decoration of ribbons and again demands a lining of chiffon and and underlining of soft satin so to be really just tho diaphanous gown although al-though It assumes the virtue of economy econ-omy has It not Wo may though except ex-cept from the rule tho frock of nln on which can be made extremely attractive at-tractive on a slight figure when it Is trimmed with large tucks or ribbons and allowed to dlspla some dainty chemisette of tulle or lace threaded with ribbons |