Show 1 I b3 lIPr S 9w7 Ilrecxr Beuutl7 o1Ytfmmlt1l70d JfJlI7Jif t He F < M J P Jt7v llll tfW d7f ld ODd rrct I IO of 1 1 UCJ HaVCU J < I Paris March 22nd Of all tho foulards which have been deluging the market there Is only one variety which is now considered In tho least degree modish and this is the silk with a soft satiny finish Gowns made of this fabric are lovely and cool looking look-Ing as well Os delightfully light to wear yet with all these undeniable advantages ad-vantages oven they seem to have well nigh lived their life I have mentioned before tho vogue of black and colored taffetas with an occasional costume of moire by way of change and even In this fickle fashion fash-Ion center these silks continue to hold their own Pongees Assam apd many of the solid colors cool and airy looking are chosen for wear later In the season and without one single exception all the charming models made of these materials ma-terials are more or less trimmed with lace and this usually in the form of broad collars sometimes of the Louis XIII style again Just a dainty confection con-fection of fluffy ruffles and cobwebby taco patterns Tucks and stitched bands help to make such costumes appear after the fashion of tailor gowns while bauds and medallions of gray Jdecp ecru or yellow lace give them a dainty air of smarlno ° v r These softtoned silks as well as the crepes will soon be struggling to hold their own against the vast quantities of linens crashes bastistcs muslins and the various other fabrics from which tub gowns are made However I it will be some time before such thin fabrics are actually worn though this statement doesnt by any means Imply I that omen are not purchasing them I Dozens have already been ordered and shops display a rainbow collection of dainty summer designs 1 SPRING FROCKS NOW Every woman Is Just now busied with the subject of spring and summer frocks yet all their interest Is as nothing noth-ing compared to the deep and intense absorption discerned in a number of charming creatures over certain gowns At no time in the year do these par tlcular costumes command such an amount of attention for Easter Is the pretty Innovation In such a gown and the plain lace incrusted upper section stops a little above the bend of the arm and Is there finished with a deep frill of white moussoline Long wilt gloves conceal tho arm entirely and while the effect Is almost that of the customary very long sleeve there Is decidedly mOle grace and beauty to this shorter style Berthas fichus and fancy draperies are a feature of the corsage of wedding dresses while some of the newest and certainly most unusual models are a series of lace ruffles falling one above tho other so that the figure seems to be wound In soft filmy mosses Sometimes Some-times these ruffles are quite narrow and extend from the waist to hem and again there may bo only three of graduated grad-uated depth each one having a dainty edging of orange blossom applique With such a gown the train may be plain while satin or of fancy brocade The Louis Quliuo style admits of much more ornamentation and for slender figures this will bo found very becoming A skirt to be worn with a Jacket of this period might be of white striped velvet and satin nottoo broad and with the train of tho same fabric Where the tialn Is caught up at either side by tiny satin bows there shows an underskirt lace and chiffon made In dainty flounces Just this little touch of delicacy and grace contrasts prettily with the otherwise rather sqyero style ofTlheskirt The corsage comes only to the waist In front where a soft filet of chiffon and lace Is permitted to blouse ever so slightly over a broad ceinture of satin folds A deep fichu of lace gives the I effect of a collar or bertha In the back and Is caught at each side of the filet under a tiny chou of chiffon centered with a I fancy button showing glittering brilliants From the bust this fichu scarf tails below the waist In deep points There arc quaint little basques of lace set op to the jacket which extend ex-tend above the waist line In the back and are fastened on either sldo with two Jowdmd buttons The sleeves of this costume arc also of e bow length and at that point they turn back of deep cuffs incrusted with lace and fastened with sparkling buttons but-tons A narrow frill of lace falls over the arm concealing the top of the long white glove With this gown Is worn a veil of rosy point lace caught In tufe coiffure with a JeisJsd ornament DRESS FOR YOUNG BRIDE The slender girlish bride who desires softness and fluffiness In her wedding gown and yet has a penchant for smart Louis Qulnzc effects will choose a draped skirt of embroidered mousseline de sole its deep double flounces being festooned across the bottom In a charmIng charm-Ing and graceful manner and caught at intervals with clusters of orange blossoms Her coat may be of handsome hand-some brocade and It will be simply ornamented with a fichu pf embroidered mousseline Bridesmaids gowns arc dreams of loveTineas and are almost Invariably made of chiffon or lace Their hats arc large fiat affairs with a straw facing to match the tint > of the gown while the top Is of delicate roses veiled with appllcalloh lace At the back are long laco streamers Intertwined with blos somo or roses to match these forming J tho crown While these hats arc quito Hat In general appearance the plateau effect Is usually broken > having them raised oft the face at lime left side toward the front Here again flowers may be used though usually they are confined to the crown and graceful pendant scarfs A pretty and stylish golngaway gown which might be chosen by an Easter bride Is shown In the bluo eta mine design from Francis The long skirt with Its becoming length of back Is luld In extremely broad plaits so broad in fact that they rather suggest panelo which Idea Is aided by the use of narrow fancy galloon embroidered In cachemlrc colors Two hands of this trimming quite wide apart extend the full length of the panels and end at tho bottom In a fancy geometrical pattern Between these panels are Inverted plaits which supply tho requisite fullness full-ness Crossing them at tho top or the skirt are three overlapping folds of etamlne which are arranged to pro duce a yoke effect The sleeves of tho short packet are also laid In box plaits very narrow ones however and they t are held quite flat at the top then toward the waist the fullness Is al lowed to purr becomingly before be ing gathered Into a tight waistband of embroidered galloon The narrow bolt Is I of the same handsome trimming as is also the collar EPAULET COLLAR Extending over the shoulders in epaulet fashion and coming far down In front is a flat velvet collar edged all around with a finely plaited mous sellne de sole ruflle For spring wear etamlno and canvas can-vas weaves In fact any of the thin looselywoven fabrics are the fashionable fash-ionable modes and though blue has enjoyed the place of high favor for some time it Is an undisputed fact that blue Is still quite the vogue Grays too are well liked and here Is a dainty visiting toilet made of French gray etamine over a skirt of mousseline de sole the same shade and this In turn draped over a self toned taffeta one Tho skirt Is arranged In an odd series se-ries of circular flounces 1 coming quite high In a point at either side of the front where they are met by a cluster clus-ter of fine tucks which continue on up to the belt Down this front panel are placed the loveliest little lace medallions medal-lions Inagray shade exactly match Ing the etamlne Tho very height of simplicity Is the corsage blouse laid in widely separated plaits tapering at the waist and trimmed at intervals with lace inedalllont There Isnt the suggestion of any contrasting note the entire effect being carried out In this soft beautiful shade of gray Such a lad as there Is Just now among the fashionable for black taffeta vostecs and whole ccstunYds of the lustrous silk as well HereIs a model from the Magaelns du Louvre which Is well worth more than a casual cas-ual glance for It presentssome very pretty and new features The length might be considered of these for It Is certainly rather unusual being just between be-tween the short and the popular three quarter EXTREMELY ARTISTIC COAT It comes over the curve of the hips and with Its becoming flounces makes an extremely attractive coat The en e r t 2en r r Ij i r i i r x th D k r l 4 1 t i5 l i 1ti r l r I ii 1 1 i I k I j t f r Y i I K IJTIiPiRE 1IOh cF Es7Ef4 c 1 rnx season of brides and bridal finery Prospective brides are spending morn ing after morning In the selection of their trousseaux and deciding the momentous mo-mentous question of how tho gown shall be made Lacp there must be and quantities of Il for such a costume would hardly I ap pear In its true form unless it were flounced incrusted or veiled In filmy lace So In this season of lavish I use of lace the chances are that bridal cos tumes will lake unto themselves more of its frosted beauty than ever before The princess style for wedding dresses In always In the lead while the Louis Qulnzc seems to be generally chosen next to this So much depends of course on tho wearers figure f and one to whom the princess style Is becom ing could not possibly 1 find anything lovelier than the simplicity of Its long shimmering folds antI perfectly molded outline For a rich ivory satin here is a style somewhat unusual and extremely beau tiful The gown Itself Is solidly Incrusted In-crusted with white lace only the long graceful train showing an absence of such ornamentation There Is a panel of plastron effect starting from the bust and reaching from armhole to armhole This piece narrows becomingly as It continues to the waist line from which point it begins to widen until at tho foot of the long skirt Is has assumed the width or the lop Tan plattinga of deep lace show in the ocsn space where this front panel Is split up from the bottom to the depth of a foot and then ornamented at the top of thc ononlnr wllh a cluster of orange blossoms The yoke Is of pearl Incrusted i lac n cut down In a deep point directly i In front and separated from the plastron by simple folds of white moue cllne At the left side placed quite high in a drooping bunch of waxy blossoms and another In the hair fastens the long tulle veil which falls In very full folds almost to the edge of tho train INNOVATION IN ELBOW SLEEVES Elbow sleeves are a delightful ancf tire garment Is laid In tiny clusters or equally small vertical tucks and fitting fit-ting well Into the figure at the back the front Is left in that becoming half loose cut There Is a deep rolling collar col-lar of tucked taffeta which extends over the shoulders In a dainty ruflle of black Chantllly lace lecmbrold ered in black chenille and the whole laid over white taffeta The trimming continues on down the front of the coat narrowing toward the bottom and then finishing the lower edge of the garment The slight fullness full-ness In front en cascade Is effective and pretty just held together over a dainty blouse of some light shade The sleeves also of lurked taffeta have the fullness gathered Into a narrowband narrow-band and held at the outside of the arm then spreading over the hand in a Incotrlmmed flounce From the numerous designs one sees for these light and very satisfactory taffeta coats It is evident that there is to be an extraordinary demand for them and to meet this modistes have supplied themselves with all sorts of styles to suit every taste Rather pFaln taffeta skirts are generally gen-erally chosen on tho smartest lo be worn with such coats and sometimes these are ornamented with tucklngs or with simple bands of black silk passe menteile A smart black hat fthc trlqorne or marquis shape seems to sul such costumes quite as fell as any other oth-er style of hat and these may he mane of solid folds of black tulle or of fancy strawboard but always simply trimmed with rosettes soft bows or Jet cabochons While smart outdoor dresses con sumo considerable of my ladys attention atten-tion just now nevertheless she doean altogether forgot her dainty negligee and Indoor frocks for they too are quite Important Greater latitude Is permitted in regard to fashions In these garments and materials may he whatever the wearer happens to fancy though it is generally conceded that I < j I t s I Ijtr I 1 r 1 I 0 1 s 1 o J1 > i S S t iar F y 7 o d i 1 S y 1 5 S r t ifiI ifi pk 4i I j t 1i 1 r1 1 f7fl 4 > r T U lf > r > v J 7 v p V 2 K L r 1 S > f soft clinging fabrics give lovelier effects ef-fects FOR SLENDER WOMEN The Empire model from E Raudnitz Is of a graceful style especially for slender women and made In sort crape or thin batiste would be equally charming for summer swcar T hls particular par-ticular gown happens to he of pastel cloth with an effective watteau plait falling from the yoke and spreading in a short train About the bottom of the gown is a Hlnch flounce having the fullness laid In fine tucks at the top where it Is set onto a wide band of gauze passe mentorle daintily outlined and embroidered em-broidered with silver and silks In pastel pas-tel shades Through this open trimming perhaps six Inches In width one catches a glimpse of the silk lining or soft pastel taffetas There Is a yoke effect of the silver embroidered passementerie which loses itself beneath a deep Empire bell made of folds of the cloth A high collar edged with tiny ruchlngs of pastel mousseline de sole stands up about the throat and the same dell cate ruchettes appear as a finish on the graceful sleeves CREATION OF POLE BLUE Here Is an exquisite creation in pale blue muslin Really It Is dainty enough to charm the most blase and already the model has been widely copied by the fashionable women of Paris It Is made of a serIes of three deep and overlapping flounce effects each one embroidered to the depth of perhaps three Inches In fine white cotton The pattern is sufllolcntly delicate to look well upon this thin fabric and Is exquisitely worked as Frenchwomen French-women know so well how to do At the back these flounces or triple skirts fall from an embroidered yokelike bolero bo-lero to forma watteau plait which Is narrow at the top and gradually broadens as It continues on down to the end of the graceful toll From under the embroidered bolero there start two long stoles of liberty ribbon wide and softly crushed together to-gether and caught at the bust tinder exquisite roselike loops then falling quite to the hem of the gown where the fluttering ends are banded with embroidery to match that on the gown Itself DAINTY NEGLIGEE A charming and new way of draping ones scarf a chic method of wearing a knot or chou frequently Is responsible l responsi-ble for the entire air of a dainty little negligee The main point Is to select a certain style whose lines are adapted to your figure and then have all your matinees robes and loose gowns copIed cop-Ied after this mode What looks graceful grace-ful and artistically comfortable upon one woman may not bo In the least becoming to another Hats no doubt are the subject uppermost up-permost In feminine minds at present for since the weather has begun to seem a little more springlike flowers and chiffons laces and all manner of airfairy effects appear quite seasonable season-able The Lewis model is a handsome combination com-bination of black and white lace The broad brim oC Irish point lace Is edged with a black straw ruche draped In black Chantilly lace which Is caught at ono side with a large Jet cabochon and then permitted to tall over the hair at the back About the low crown Is a second straw ruching and at the left side the brim Is rolled off the face to disclose a gloomy black plume which rests against the hair il a I r w a t f i di T h I y + f ss 1 1 i et ii V r I I i ii i b iJ i < + rr J ti if f i r J I t d S t S I LI S It1 fJ o t f t J 1 r 1 J r < mt I I t 4 rrLSrTjr 1 1 ly C saratr lJr t |