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Show under the toreador is of moussellne de soie of exactly the same tint, worn with a corselet corse-let formed of fire bands of pale rose velvet ribbon, laced one into the other. The sleeves, very bouffantes, are finished just below the elbow with a wide trill of finely pleated mousseline de soie. The demi-train skirt, slightly draped, is bordered with an embroidered em-broidered band of cloth similar to that of the jacket. ' An exquisite capote in black and white has a little crown piece of fine silk network in a leaf and stem design and a dainty border. bor-der. Under this beautiful center is fulled a very fine black lace, which forms the edge of the capote and rests on the hair. Tucked into the folds of this lace and clustered prettily together, are tiny black and white violets. In front are. high loops of wider lace, from which emerge feather-tipped aigrettes. The back has a bunch of the same violets loosely tied with a ribbon, the ends of which pass under the chin, forming the tie strings, the whole making a most effective bit of black and white. . An attractive little waist of pale blue rough cloth has a deep plastron and pointed firdle of kid embroidered in Russian work, he sleeves are made, in two puffs, which are separated by a pointed band, and have pointed cuff of the embroidered kid as well. - British silks are coming to the front; the chrysanthemum pattern is gorgeously beautiful, beau-tiful, the ground of magnificent brocade, strewn with Japanesa chrysanthemums of palest pink and yellow. Victoria brocade is ble coiffures, and the ladies of her circle, who, like not a few of the men, put their whole fortunes on their backs, followed her initiative, and even went the length of dyeing dye-ing their hair to make it approximate to the decidedly "sandy" hue of her majesty's. In Paris even chemises have become fine batiste fourreaux, while petticoats have been altogether done away with and are replaced re-placed by a single silk or satin slip that softens the lines under the tight fitting biassed skirt. Although fluffy hair is the general rule, flain bandeaux have been lately adopted by adies of fashion, and have been greatly admired, ad-mired, perhaps by the force of contrast, so that it is not improbable we may soon have to proclaim a complete change in modern coiffure. A certain monotony in the shapes of dress sleeves was observed for a while back. They are undergoing a good deal of alteration, altera-tion, the fullness being now arranged to give width instead of height to the sleeve; and many of the new sleeves are. very becoming, be-coming, not only on account of their shape, but also their make, two stuffs being used to a great extent, or the same effect given by adding lace, embroidery, passementerie, etc. Some remarkably fine black fabrics are seen in Paris at the present. They have given a revival to the taste for black, which will always retain a supreme place in refined dressing. White materials also enter largely fine, yet light texture that they greatly resemble re-semble heavy lace. Vests, cuffs and buttons of tan leather are novel adjuncts for cloth gowns. Buttons of twisted celluloid are made in every conceivable color to match the gown. A gown of ivory men's cloth for evening has a novel garniture. It consists of bands of pale brown velvet and tan Russia leather, stamped with gold and bronze figures in relief. re-lief. This combination is used ou the bottom bot-tom of the skirt and as belt and suspenders upon the waist; the buttons also being leather covered. v The difficulty of protecting the bottom of the skirt from dust and dirt has been met by a newly invented thick cord with a woolen braid, an inch broad on the upper side, by means of which both edge and inner lining of the skirt are well protected. For long skirts which are allowed to trail over the grass or grave), in park or garden, we recommend re-commend the "balayeuse," or inner frill, made of silky-looking India rubber. It can be had in all the usual colors. An edging called Venetian embroidery is worked on nainsook with cotton a la croix. The outline is first traced on the nainsook, then ;mn out. and afterwards buttonholed over. The bars are worked in buttonhole as in lace. When the work is finished the superfluous su-perfluous material is cut away with a pair of sharp scissors. v t port herself and three daughters. She thought of authorship, tried it, and was successful. suc-cessful. Mrs. Nancy 8. Foster has given $50,000 to build a hall for women at the Chicago university. uni-versity. Miss Phillippa Fawcett has been appointed by the English woman's committee on the world's fair to deliver a lecture at Chicago on woman's education in England. v Miss Elizabeth Leonhardt of the Episcopal hospital. Philadelphia, ranked ninety-eight in medicine and ninety-nine in surgery. ....( j Lilliuokalani, queen of the Sandwich Islands, is so ardent a - temperance advocate that she will have no wines or spirituous liquors at her dinners or receptions. The University club of San Francisco is to have an annex for ladies. There are only four large cities in this country that have taken thu "unclubable sex" and given them a portion of the building. They are the Metropolitan Metro-politan of New York, the Hamilton and Brooklyn, and the Somerset and Algonquin of Boston. The highest commencement honors at the University of Minnesota and at Carletoa college, in the same state, this year, were awarded to women. Plaid surah in bright colors Is very much in favor for making blouses and waistcoats have this summer, and all in the hope that I might lose a layer or two of extra flesh." Up trots a mother and her three youngsters, young-sters, looking as if they might have, come straight from Africa. How plump and brown and rosy they are. She dots down the weight of the entire party with evident satisfaction, exclaiming as she does so: "Good! I don't begrudge money spent when it shows such excellent results." A couple elegantly gowned approach in shy fashion as if to say, "Let's get through with the business as "quickly as possible." Bat this is not so easily done. Neither one of the newcemers seems to have the slightest slight-est idea how to work the machine. The more they try the more flustrated they get A young man, who has 6trayed upon the women's camping ground at the earnest solicitations so-licitations of a feminine friend, takes in the dilemma and offers his services. Both of the women are unromantically fat, and evidently evi-dently are aware of the fact, for they hesi- tate, but finding that they" must accept the situation do so with the best grace pos-j pos-j sible. And so they come and go. Occasionallv a "Hey?" The agent pressed a handkerchief to his brow. "I think, perhaps, er I'd a better call your attention to this house." The agent's voice was a trifle faint, and as he stuck the pin into another part of the map he felt that he had over-estimated his ability to read character at first sight. Cincinnati Cin-cinnati Commercial-Gazette. WOMEN AT A WEIGHING MACHINE. Thirty Minute of Amusement Sometimes Furnished Male Observers, If you have a half hour on your hands and want to enjoy a little fun on the quiet, the Philadelphia Presx advises you to drop down beside a popular weighing machine and watch the antics of the sisterhood. In a steady and unceasing procession the women come, each new arrival going through the process of being weighed in her own way and showing palpable anxiety as to tbe result re-sult of the summer'! campaign. Two friends approach. One is a dumpling of a woman FOILED. Or How the Peachy-Cheeked Lady Did the ' Real Estate Agent. The real estate agent experienced a feeling feel-ing of exultation when the Walnut Hills young lady, with peachy checks, admitted that house-renting was a new experience for her. The agent's conscience had become hardened, and with the thought of his wife and children, there took possession of his mind a full determination to show the peachy-cheeked young lady absolutely no mercy. "I have," he pleasantly remarked, "a splendid splen-did house right here." Tbe agent stuck a pin in his map to indicate indi-cate the location. 'Is it er" The young lady's peachy cheeks were suffused suf-fused with blushes. "Adapted to housekeeping?" "Oh, perfectly." The agent had never seen a domicile, to be confidential, that was better adapted to housekeeping. "Really," declared the young lady, depre- for all sorts of uses. The plaids are always used bias. The advent of the Eton suit has been hailed by the girls with delight. The little jackets are worn over silk shirt waists on cool days, and on warm days, being of lightweight, light-weight, they may be conveniently carried. These are the days when neatness In dress goes under the name of smartness, and the smartly-gowned woman owes ber success to the fact that she makes everything secure and t!dy before she leaves her room, invariably invaria-bly making a final careful scrutiny of her attire as she stands, fully dressed, before her mirror. She who boasts that it never takes her a minute to dress may be fully assured that there will be abundant shortcomings in her raiment to bear witness to the truth of her statement. a rich fabric 01 rencn gray, wnn an snae-finable snae-finable wavy pattern In a slightiy darker tone, and showing pinkish' reflections under the gaslight. ;: j , j Laces with a heavy net foundation, and braided with a very fine Sultache and chenille che-nille in a running design, are the most stylish styl-ish trimmings on light weight dresses of carmelite or men's cloth, and even the most useful iron frame grenadines. . Seberty satin is a silk fabric made in England, Eng-land, and in the daintiest- coverings imaginable. imagin-able. In white, with a brocaded surface, it is used for bridesmaids' and nuptial dresses and court costumes. 4. Some of the silks sfiown in navy blue, plum or garnet, are forty-two inches wide, and on one side is a border consisting of three graduated stripes in a contrasting color. ! . There are exquisite gauzes for evening wear, and fairy-like silk crepes; some of these materials are shot with different colors, col-ors, while others show changeable stripes. There are embroidered petits pois, coin spots and crescents in raised embroidered effects upon a crinkly surface. In fancy weave that called satin rtnaismnct enhimine is rich and lustrous, while damasies in intagilio etcalier-Uime, ruban d'or, jardiniere jardi-niere and chevion en ponipadour are most used for dinner, ball and reception toilettes. " Materials with the tucks woven in them, and with the accompaniment of plain goods are effective in the light weight woolens, the tucked goods forming a trimming for the waist and sleeves, and, being introduced in the skirt in the gu'se of panels or fiat baads. ; ' ' .V When Queen Erfzabetb "ra to the throne and inaugttfAied me-" golden age of Head-dressing, Head-dressing, she adopted some highly remarka- in the composition oi many blacK costumes. The blending of two such contrasting colors produces artistic combinations. The present pres-ent style is nothing but the application of tbe principles so well known to the votaries of black and white, and fashion is merely following a prevailing taste in art as she always does, for fashion is indeed applied art. . Among desirable fall goods are illuminated illumin-ated poplins, Ombri crepons, Andine plu-mets, plu-mets, cheviots in new combinations, Indian cloths, English and Scotch homespuns and costume cloths in dark, warm colorings. The fluted crepes in Pomperian colorings are rich and artistic, and there are also dress materials with borders of gray Roman stripes, or those in chino effects and plaids. Brussels net, with ribbon effects, are suitable suit-able for evening, also cream guipure d'lre-lande, d'lre-lande, point de Raguse, point d'Angeleine and dentuile Russe in deep flouncings. Wide curitures of moire, jet, velvet and leather are among the distinguishing features feat-ures of the fall costumes. Some of the elegant rich passementerie is almost identical with the rick rack braid trimming once so much worn; it is expensive expen-sive and handsome. Thetis brocade comes fifty-two inches wide, and is woven in crape-like, crinkly effects, ef-fects, which are exceedingly artistic. Sailcloth serge is a new English material, and is of blue and gray, worn loosely down in Imitation of the coarse threads of sailcloth. sail-cloth. . Corduroy erepon comes in two contrasting colors, and resembles corduroy. Some of the jetted trimmings are of such Colored liaen laces are brought in dark blue, scarlet and heliotrope, the color intermixed inter-mixed with the torchon foundation; these laces suitably trim gowns of batiste, linen, lawn and zephyr gingham. In silks the standard makes are the rich, glossy armures, the whip cord surahs, figured fig-ured Siciliennes, peau de soies and round cord failles. -" Blazer suits are even made of India silk, but the blazers, to set well, should be lined. There is no accounting for tastes. A Pennsylvania woman has a varied collection col-lection of teeth of ber relatives. And as she points to Cousin Sal's molar and Uncle Will's eye-tooth, she remarks with a sigh, "Dear me, how I wish them old times would come back again." Mrs. A. E. N. Robertson of Muscogee, Indian territory, has been made a doctor of philosophy by the University of Ohio for translating the new testament out of the Greek into the language of the Creek Indians. In-dians. Much of the money which Mrs. General Custer realized by her seventy-two readings last winter has gone toward educating a young girl whose father died on the same-field same-field with her husband. i "Hello, Rumble, what becameof that shy little girl that you tried to coax into saying she loved you last summer ?" Stumble "Oh, she has changed a good deal. She is my wife now, and every day she tells me what she thinks of me without any trouble." Chicago Inter-Ocean. Amelia Barr lost her husband, and three sons by yellow fever, la Texas, in 1867. Hex father-; war an English .clergyman and she was brought up among1 books. When hot husband and sons died she was left to sup- nouscKeeping. "Really," declared the young lady, depre-catingly, depre-catingly, "you must excuse my ignorance." The agent bowed and begged her not to mention it. "I'd like to ask you one or two questions about the house, if I may." The agent was delighted, he was sure. "Thank you. Does it face the north and have a woodshed with three separate bins for coal, and room for a refrigerator in the corner furthest from the sun?" The agent remembered afterwards that she looked very sweet and unsophisticated as she propounded the Inquiry, with an expression ex-pression of the most bewitching anxiety. . "Y-ye-yes that is, I believe so." "And I hope you can assure me that the window frames are tight, and that the doors have not sagged until they woa't shut. I suppose, of course" The agent drew copiously from a draft of fresh air that chanced to wander his way. "The walls are not cracked, the floors are not shrunk, the varnish is still on the woodwork, wood-work, the chimneys are clean and safe, the cellar does not flood, and" ... "Madam" -. i "We should certainly want at least six . ate h keys for the front door J.'. . - "Madam" approach. One is a dumpling of a woman and the other as thin as a match. The fleshy person mounts first. Higher and higher climbs the scale. She looks thoroughly disgusted dis-gusted as her companion cautiously manipulates manipu-lates the weigher. "One hundred and thirty-six? I don't believe be-lieve it. The old thing is out of order. No? Well, I'adge, you are just too horrid." Madge lightly steps into place, and with a laugh and a "Here goes" anxiously scrutinizes scrutini-zes the maneuvers of the machine. But it doesn't go; sticks fast, in fact, at 100. Not a half-pound more will it give the young woman, who has been building her hopes upon fresh milk, country fare and a complete com-plete rest to fill out the hollows and cover up ugly angles. "My, but I envy you," sighs her fleshy friend. "Well, you needn't," snaps the disappointed disap-pointed one. - "Look at your lovely neck and arms. Why anything becomes you, just because be-cause you can show such tantalizing bits of white flesh, while I must plan continually to cover up my bones. It is simply exasperat-ng, exasperat-ng, and here I have been trying so hard all he season to catch a few extra pounds." ,. 'And V 'id- the, , ether, "have nerer worked so hard in my life at the oar as 1 party strikes the lucky number, that is the weight which shows a delightful medium betwixt embonpoint and extreme leanness. Then it is that she 6teps off with satisfaction plainly written upon her countenance and a commiserating glance for her less fortunate neighbors. - Fads and Fancies. A short walking dress with a demi-long train, as easy to catch up while out of doors as to let fall on entering the house is made after this fashion: Take three yards of staff, a yard and a quarter wide hold it lengthwise across the stomach till the selvedge sel-vedge touches the ground, then pin it round the stomach and hips, making tiny sailor-pleats sailor-pleats that mould the skirt to the figure. Then take the two ends of the three yards and hold them together behind, cut a bias upwards so as to form the only seam in the skirt and although clinging to the hips and figure it will not be what old-fashioned people peo-ple call indecent. A pretty and poetical wool gown is all in pale rose. It is made with a toreador jacket xt Rose cloth embroidered iu- a (iiecian pattern pat-tern with silk matching in color. The blouse |