Show IN III BLACK AND CRIMSON one of the most I 1 of autumn dress Vaga rits SOME OF THE MOST interesting THINGS about the early winter Milli millinery nory A grape tea what tile largo inn imparting houses are arc opening copening tho ngien of brown irown tame I 1 I 1 yew new sept 16 1891 As I 1 camo mo it owai 1 l road way this morning I 1 found myself all at once within alra tho the aura of 0 a warn warm avi snoot act hean licay y perfume it II did not como come from the iho pink and ami pur plo pin asters in the florists window nor from tho the tall lull spikes of orange and flame colored pla Flad olius dollus but as I 1 took step after etier step slop it 11 grew warmer and sweeter and heavier until at the abo corner carrier of street I 1 law myself cloo upun upon a hedge of creamy abito tube rosos rosca fencing la in a street floor cr sellers stand up tip to tho the tube tuberoses roses was a woman lit in black and as I 1 saw her la in profile view site looked tall balint and creamy whito of complexion like the flo flowers aers I 1 took her for young widow 1 and I ild wondered what memories the went scent of the ll 11 e tube tuberoses roses stirred but as she te tur turned d full to meet tire mo I 1 confronted liao most novel and perhaps ibo be most interesting te of our autula dress peati A whiff of wind turned back the flaps caps of hor her smart lit on no black coati coat and behold it was lined bolth vi lib stripes of scarlet and orange silk arid and a broad scarf ribbon of scarlet and orange crossed her black bodice from the left shoulder passing I 1 AV J S I 1 t I 1 Z V 1 A I 1 6 4 1 1 I 1 I 1 f 4 I 1 I 1 i 1 at 11 t 0 V I 1 f 11 1 I a V I 1 ron ran AS AN AUTUM 1 under the right arm she was likes like 1 crimson throated blackbird or a stalk of caid lual flowers leaning over a black pool her for black felt hat bat was of a low crowned sailor shape arid anil showing aboa ing only when t lien yon yen faced its wearer directly lu in front was a knot of scarlet and orange halt half hidden in a black robotic as quiet and serious and altogether september shopping as was the demuro oval of tire faco face until you caught the occasional flash of tile largo large arid and peculiarly brilliant brown eyes II if she ho had gono gone her way wearing tuberoses tube roses I 1 should have bavo lost toy my falth faith in one womans comans sense of tho the of things but sho bho clangorous lang orous sensuous beauties home bonio in ia a licit box and walked forward with willi one sprig of orange colored tassel flowers scentless but vivid as a sunset nodding at her buttonhole tile the milliners campaign Is more forward va ard thana than that of tire the thero there Is comparatively little lit in view yet that cau bo classed as winter wear vicar but tho the autumn hat Is sufficiently pronounced to in its characteristics to gho ghe tho the streets a different look from any they have cn or it worn orn it Is really curious it if you stop to think of it NN matl bit val vail I 1 allons human ingenuity will contrive to play upon an apparently worn orn out thorns felt arid and feathers have been worked tor for effects from time immemorial but the effect that Is produced this month it a little violent talent Is unquestionably novel tho the sailor shape Is the shape for the walking hat bat and the dress hat bat Is hardly yet voL in being it has a trine brou n than it had bad in fit straw and a 0 trifle more brim it Is lory cry round arid and jn color it Is 13 apt to bo be silvery gray or fawn or A pale creamy brovan bronn ilia trimmed with two large brown flags starting train from the crown in trout and spreading rakishly at either side and rising between ane wings la in a that runs stra fht back over tho the crown Is i a range of broast breast feathers atherl te that looks it if I 1 may venture m with till all apologies to speak jestingly of something that has cost without doubt expenditure of time and of alio llio geay of the brain lu lit II devising as it a foul had boon been caught on oa tho the roost and turned breast boric bone up back down w ings flapping to bo be stuffed stull cil or roasted S some orno oft of the lie breastbones breast bones rise lit in sharper ridges than others as it if there were nero marked in the ages arid and degrees of londot noss or of tho the birds but tho the general idea runs through a good share of tho the earl early y millinery exhibit and seems seeing to tile tho thoughts of tho the b bat at trimmers it Is 06 of breastbone only you understand t acre are arc no foot to curl up black toes fees plit pitifully fully and no beads tile the people vs mho he object to dead birds tor for orna morics M soom seem really to bavo succeeded lit in making the display less revolting mind and tire tho ridge Is too higland bieh and too straight arid and too steep as to its ILs sides arid and too regular to bo be altogether realistic but september sailors oro are calculated culat cal to catch aud interest the eye 1 I was lit in lenox on oil thursday and brought away a picture of golden goldenrod rod and aters alters and rod red milkweed crowding up close to the lanes arid and of a girl holding tho the leash of a handsome st I 1 I 1 I 1 1 17 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 it I 1 t 1 I 1 11 k I 1 1 1 1 I 1 I 1 F J AS AN AUTUMN WR olp bernard dog as site sio walked in tho the hazy lazy september sunshine the I 1 locusts oc 1 ats droning their lay monotonous notes t 0 3 and her snover steps growing wead slower as plia pile passed towards the curve her long plaid wool cloak lending the oro are touch of human interest or animation to the iho landscape it was aas a cloak that A alsofrom aldo from tho the girl was worth consider considering ipg with its shades of cream aud and Lri Li lingon aud and palo pale brown sweeping the grass like the long walking dresses tight in the back loose loosa lit in front and with a deep shoulder boulder cape trimmed alth cimarra aud and crimson chish bands I 1 have tried to liao bavo it sketched for you but tile tho brooding bro sky cannot bo be put into a cloak picture nor tho the reddening bittersweet nor tho the locusts hum I 1 attended something in lenox that they called a grape tea ll it was a usual tea lea enough except that wild valid grapevines and tangles of tho the litell 0 frost grapes had been brought into tho reception rooms and disposed with the art which Is tho the best modern substitute tor for artlessness about the calif nets start the mantels arid and had been coaxed coaled to droop like alko green curtains front from tile tho v window poles 1 lid clematis bittersweet and grapevines were tho the tea table decorations and the iho guests found tho the small cakes and delicate sandwiches and other pretty though unsubstantial substantial lin lands it Is tho the custom to sari goroon a on such occasions laid outon out on devres china lined with grapo leaves it was a good occasion for laeng in stores of information about autumn reception recaption dresses tin tile most elaborate I 1 noticed Is delapia ad in ono of tile ill illustrations Us trat ions A russet silk filk shot dimly mill 11 I 1 I 1 4 C I 1 ill I 1 Y I 1 I 1 1 I I 1 I 1 1 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 M 1 1 11 V V I 1 J I 1 1 4 ak j I 1 f pa U lot w I 1 1 I 1 V I 1 C I 1 N I 1 I 1 6 I 1 11 1 I 1 J I 1 I 1 I 1 61 ES EN it IN red as tho the material of tile long rodin gote embroidered balth russet arid and gold cold and crimson about tho the waist and at the tout foot was a deep russet silk fringe thoro there WAS a lonk long V shape plastron outlined allu cri crimson nison velvet ribbons io in trout front tho the sleeves wore vioris open and nd capo cape liko like and tell lei in a peculiar cascade point on oil either cither side the abo back had a V of embroidery less artistic than like rest of the abo design and there era calm sort eon velvet bows at on tho shoulders the was of russet cloth without the taint faint crimson gleam ono one of the autumn brides appeared in matronly dignity in a slashed trained skirt skirl of dirk dark ole green silk strown with wilh bunches ot of hydrangeas alo train ran out in a tali long narrow point quite the iho shapes of past seasons A panel of black laco lace was id a t in at ono one side ol of t the lie skirt and on oil at either I 1 her side of the panel wai a row of largo dark pearl buttons the opaul ats basque and fr illings were of exceptionally beautiful chantilly ChAnt llly and tho the brooch that fastened the laco lace folds on tile tho bosom was an bunch of shaded blue and pink biuk hydrangea tile tho bonnet was vias in fit ollio alho felt with loops in laco lace and lid gold not del and shot olive alive and pink ribbons I 1 spent it a couple of hours this morning looking over tho the advance stock of ono of the largo importing houses I 1 saw a great many beautiful gray and bronzo bronze shades with blue wack black road and garnet and rid an unlimited range of browns tho the nasturtium browns warm arid and reddish and shot wilh flame and orange aro are intrinsically tho the finest but aro are almost suro sure tobo to 10 mi sworn diuk Daik blue lilue striped with a dork rhododendron red Is a favorito favorite combination arid and a very fairly sato safe one auburn brown and nut brown are am seen constantly and aro are combined with yellow jaguar brown Is tile iho namo name ol of a color or combination of colors about m which there Is really very little brown at all beige yellow and palo pale brown spots aro are strews straws irregularly ocr a tawny ground and the iho fabric is used occasionally tor for street dresses hut but moro more often and moro more appropriately fur bands of trimming ono onn of tire vest best liked designs for a bad bodice lea Is seen in ili an air illustration it Is long and tight fitting lit in tile the back bet bg plaited in three hollow plaits while tho the front is plain it Is full on oil the ibo shoulders buttons at iho waist alst and opens over oer a plastron in ili tho the original tho liao color combination wad naj chamois and heather brown the long cloaks for winter filter seem to be cut a good deal ou on the model of tile the princess cc polonaise the finest ones have fur girdles and shoulder dur capes find and sometimes tur fair hoods heads and long fur cuffs reach ing to tho the elbows the cloak dresses LAVO have deep bands of fur about tho the hem bole deep skirted walking coats coals aro are going to bo be as popular as they era aro inartistic in design I 1 saw one today to day in a warm garnet cloth double breasted till wide pockets packets sot set across tho the trips hips and with fill the tha skirts in fit the back and set on two inches below tho the waist to lo enlarge tire iho hips and encourage the struggle of the aarder it had a flaring collar and ami scams strapped on oil the outside dovo dova gray velvet coats aro are counted among fashions chief favorites and ono a of alo most attractive costumes exhibited waft wa it 11 gray camels hair tailor dress dregs with such a coat lined with gray surah shot mith tow rose color A gray gainsborough hat to accompany it vias as cat eyed with gray plumes tipped with moth r rose oso when I 1 walto a rite again I 1 sita shall have more to say gay la in detail about the iho displays at tho the first of ano fell fall openings ELI elisif EN f |