Show Perus Peru's Capital Gets New Nev Dress Lima Ancient City of the Is Undergoing l Mo d derti erti iza tion W by ton DC National D C w c-w Ceo NV rf So SerIe 0 here building D there Installing modern wa- wa water wa water ter tel and sewerage systems tearing up rough worn age cobble cobble- cobblestones stones cobble stones putting down Iowa smooth mod mod- modera modern ern era concrete and anid asphalt In their stead op opening up new both to the mountain and the tine sea and antI developing motor routes to the outlying regions of the tine plain thus the makers of ot new Lima are lire trans trans- forming transforming tine the Peruvian capital city of the The Tine older portion of the tine city as aswell weIl vell as the tine newer region which dr cir clr circumscribes it Is sharing In the tine modernization mod modernization True the tine older section Is and must remain an area of one wn way t-ay streets for its thoroughfares are so narrow that even street cars must observe e the way one law Like Like- Likewise Likewise Likewise wise the tine sidewalks are so lacking In elbow room that only two people can pass one another at a time and tine the one on the tine outside must keep a close watch lest iest he be struck by bya bya bya a passing trolley Old and new fight for supremacy Tine The blue necked turkey buzzards have lost their role as the tine official scavengers the ox-cart ox has lies given place largely to the tine motor truck the theold theold theold old barouche has ilas abandoned the streets to the modern modem mod rn automobile and the patient donkey Is making his last stand Even Pizarro's stern old palace Is feeling the tho urge toward modernization modernization tion thou In days gone by there was no street In Lima that had hall a n single nam name throughout Its length Each block had Its own particular des des- desIgnation designation designation ignation The two streets that led lell from the Plaza Plaz San Martin to the National Palace are six blocks long Each possessed six dl different names one for each ench block The municipal authorities wanted to change all alI this and gave each street treet a single designation for Its entire length The Tine one they called the Giron de dc la Ia Union and the tine other tine the Giron Caraba a But Rut the populace would have ha none of It It The Tine man who did business on the northwest side of the Plaza de deArmas deArmas Armas still wanted vantell to have his store 41 at Sale of Shoes In a Peruvian Market on and the tine one who wino held forth on the tile next block still Insist insist- insisted Insisted ed cd he be was doing business bushness on Mer- Mer Mercaderes cr and they continue lo- lo lodoso io do doso doso doso so Consequently tine the Giron de Ile la Ia Union Is swallowed up by the sev ses- several eral ni calles calies which compose It It These may be named without day modern day rh rhyme me or reason and the they certainly are without alpha alpha- alphabetical alphabetical or other Indications of their sequences but Lut the people clIn cling to them despite whatever r confusion It costs the post office however much It may complex the tine visitor and whatever harvest It may bring the taxI drivers How the System Works Work Many Interesting stories are told illustrating how this mysterious system tem tom works One concerns a stranger wino who hailed mailed a axin Calle Caile La Merced and asked the chauffeur to drive him to veinte cia cia- ciaCo co cin-co co The Tile driver er did dill not bat an eye but drove like Jehu up Jesus Nez- Nez Naz-areno Naz areno skidded on two wheels Into Giron raced around Plaza San Matin and whirled up through Boza l landing his mis shaken passenger at the address given oni given the same street but simply In tine the next block from where he started d I IThe IThe The line name tells tella us of the day when that block was wa the Wall ali Street of Lima and or the public letter writers who were sheltered under the portals on the west side of the Plaza Pinza Cello Mantas proclaims the tine square where the ladles ladies of Perus Peru's golden past spent their husbands substance In rIotous purchase of ot shawls home home- Indian textiles and lingerie Tine The history of Limas Lima's past Is writ writ- written written ten tD In her streets In names that the municipality long has inas wanted anted to wipe out In favor or of through des des- designations designations and lumbered blocks nut But tine the people of the city cling chug to theIr streets with a devotion that will not DOt permit convenience to triumph over romantic ties with the past mast In wandering about the old city one comes upon many an architectural architectural tural relic of ot tho the days of the tine vice vice- viceroys viceroys viceroys roys but amo all nil of these none Is more Impressive than the tine monas monas- monastery monastery tery tory of San Francisco There one may Ulay be ushered Into a n porcelain gar gar- garden gar garden den where here the artistic tiles of the HIe r compete with the hiving 11 flowers nO that om bt bl oro In the earth thoy l I No Xo one has described more beau bean beautifully the effect or of this porcelain than Mr Ir F P Farrar of the West est st Coast Leader Here nere he says Is a porcelain garden a ceramic ceramic ic Ie border of springtime where tine the blues of delphinium and lupine the yellow of and the tine gold of colchicum the creamy white of oC arabis and the tine mauves mau of blend Into tine the fresh foliage foIl of oC tine the overhanging trees and amI the azure of tine the skies The charm of the story of the ther r origin of this porcelain garden al nl iii- iii almost most equals the beauty of the tine ceo cc- ce ceramic triumph Itself On a n No Noem No em her bel morning In iii 1019 1619 a fl vast crowd hind gathered In the Plaza de lie Arm ls for there was to be tie a public inning hang hanInA hanging ing InA mid aind these events e were itoman Homan holl las la's for tine the populace The public crier had lund announced Tine The Warrantable and Royal A Audi Audi- Audi encin en endia cia of oC this City of the tine Kings tins has condemned to suffer stiffer a n shameful death on the gallows Alonso Godinez ez ez native nathe of Guadalajara In 10 Spain for the tine murder of Marts Marta fear C tr of judgment human humm or dIvine Let him who did so pay the penalty Tills This sentence Is to be read In the presence of all ahi lest they meet a like ilke end endl I Let Iet justice be bedone bedone done I I Came a Reprieve Tine condemned man had mad taken his mis I I stand beneath the tine noose noose- and tine the I hangman was as nervously adjusting tine the fatal knot Suddenly a monk moult pushed hed his way the tine throng climbed the gallows platform and handed a parchment to the captain of the gun guard rd After the latter had read It the tine two engaged In a n mo- mo moment mo moment ment meat of animated conversation after which the padre led the con con- condemned condemned man away and Into tine the portals of the tine monastery of San Francisco The crowd cro disappoint disappoint- disappointed ed hung about the tine Plazuela de San discussing this tills strange 0 of justice But later the reason for reprieve became known That morning the condemned man had made what me he thought would be his last confes confes- confession confession sion slon on earth to the tine prior of tine the monastery lIe He said that he was wasn wasa wasa n a potter by trade and that he had the tine art both of making and settIng tiles Years before Dona Done Catalina lIu Ilu- Ilu anca anca had brought from Spain a mag- mag magnificent mag magnificent collection of tiles for the decoration of tine the new cloisters at San Francisco but neither plan nor a tile setter had mad come with them and Lima had no tile setters So for years the tiles had been piled up In a n corner of the monastery many were stolen and more were broken Would Providence Pro ever open a 1 way for their s setting Here seemed to be the tine answer the prior saw an opportunity to let the man who wino had murdered a worn wom woman an In a drunken brawl repent his I Ian sIns In lu a lifelong task of setting these tiles So he inc hastened to tine the viceroy to Implore the tine pardon of the murderer and the viceroy a de- de descendant descendant de descendant of the seeing po- po poetic po poetic Justice In remitting tine the penalty of tine the scaffold and Imposing a task of service that would require a life life- lifetime lifetime time granted ranted the commutation of sentence One can see today the tine wisdom of that act of tempered mercy-tempered justice Alonso GodInez was a true artist who loved his work and threw his soul Into It It Today the walls aILs alls blos bios blossom blossom som sonn with pictures which In their mellowness richness and seductive beauty rival those of the Alhambra Itself and It Is doubtful If outside of Spain there Is to be found a finer example of porcelain entablature In Inthe inthe Inthe the heyday he day of ot Its art than here Lima Is peculiarly a city of churches with some 70 71 In Its limits and with nearly four centuries of outstanding ecclesiastical tradItion behind them the tine people are much given Iven to buying rell religious lous objects Tine Cathedral Is a structure much larger than PIzarro built bulIt but still not so grand as the one erected during the early years ears of the ue and de de- destro de destroyed ed by the great earthquake that wiped out The high altar Is of massive sli- sli sliver sil silver ver s-er construction In the chapel of tine the Virgin Is a celebrated Image pre pre- presented presented by the Emperor Charles V Y of Spain and In the Chapel an original painting attributed to representing Jesus and Veronica Here nere rests a marble and glass and casket which Is most Interesting of all for or It contains the tine mummy malt skeleton skeleton malt reputed repute to be the tine re reo re- re remains remains mains of the great conqueror conqueror Fashionable Hats Taboo Tine The attire for tor church occasIons I I InI Is perhaps the most conservative In Inthe inthe Inthe the New world Even those women who dress In the tine latest ParIsian modes elsewhere put on their plain black mantillas when going to church In some sonic congregations those who come conne In fashionable lire are told politely to remove relo them amid flud substitute their mantillas be be- before before before fore they they are allowed to be me soiled ted sel Among the tine fine tine old residences of I Lima Linna one of the most impressively beautiful Is the famous palace of Tagle To Torre-Tagie Torre once the tine home of tine the marquIse of that name but now nosy tine the headquarters of the tine ministry of or for for- eign relations Tine The City of the Kings long has s been famous for Its brilliant social lIfe with a n constant succession of luncheons teas dinners dances I and receptions Near Near- Nearly Nearly ly Iy four centuries s of ot wealth leisure and opportunity have written their Impress of culture on the tine descend descendants ants of the tine nobility and classes ot of the colonial regime |