| Show I 1 I 1 STARTING THE SEASON 11 I 1 wa I 1 I 1 I 1 experimental styles and ai I 1 goods for fall trade I 1 I 1 1 a A FEW THINGS EXCLUSIVE I 1 1 I 1 I 1 sensation goods are not expected to f be ba the permanent ent style Sty leThe the one ona I 1 great point of 0 difference between tills and last years gowns is the I 1 sleeves varying Var yint forms from the I 1 I 1 initiation imitation big bi to the ibe ini singly miel nely tight ribbon collars A 1 and taffeta silks miscellany f I 1 i I 1 t i correspondence tribune I 1 i new york fork august 1 27 7 1856 I 1 ULY lla brings every I 1 eli il J I 1 I 1 year tile the i ivry fixed adjustment of 0 tile alio summers rohi 1 fons I 1 aws in dress e nl anil and by the bei beginning I 1 I 1 11 I 1 ii ginning ot of ani august angust I 1 i II 11 I 1 alt 11 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 i A planning for llie lite auturo futuro aut airo concerns I 1 tile the fall fait and I 1 ir winter wardrobe wardi I 1 tills year there cani came with ellith I 1 august a sudden if I 1 and berrr al ilish into elaborate dresses ut of 1 raulins and other gauzy auzy fc fain lea lul but that is ii to lo be short lived and 9 art VOW now ille th of stiles leg for the lite corning seaton penton oat are well settled fettled an independent 1 wom comaj a n now and then may think that the she lu have a little to t 0 say i a y about abou t them but lie wont tile tiie ock Is a al ccady on tho the counters the leading I 1 dressmakers have arranged unions them themselves selves ahat hat goods gooda they will pu push sh and womans comans fate fale Is r sealed paled As to bayle and cut site will do exactly as her dressmaker tells tier her atit 1 slip a dress dressmaker maRer site wilt will come arct tv v CIO celoso ti ill doing what her and litter telli her bet this will lie be pretty much what has hag been arranged other dressmakers rR to do so lie worn woman in independent or other avise will have very little choice in ili the mattes matter ember a as a first consideration that the styles considered experimental ily by the dealers nill gor on oil tile the barkr t first there must be a few fell sensA tlona to start the season something to inaldo the shop windows look distinctive distinct and to catch the eye that Is jaded by sure summer atiles s dealers know ery cry well that a really vinall proportion of aliee sensation lens atlon broods pell they serve merely to start the season searon sonic somo ot of them catch calr dirand antl duplicated ate ai for uller fuller fale and some faw atte mithi ted that will aill be all bought with file aiom iw ise that no moio allore ahall abe put on oil tire mr market arket such ruch goods coeds then become exclusive clu sive laid and if Yot boil thada had a chanco chance to buy anti and you wilt frel ilk like pulling out your pompa lont jale late lit in the lie tearon cazon L but you have lotsof lot gD chanced of i making I 1 I 1 you fall into I 1 ilk V I 1 1515 ai 11 4 9 ll 11 I 1 I 1 t 0 I 1 icv 1 av ak ir A ivie 19 I 1 T X C me 1 lv t gs in k tl V F t ij I 1 tv t vp pao I 1 11 4 4 rpy P I 1 11 ra wi Y al 1 A I 1 1 I 1 4 I 1 I 1 I 1 t I 1 19 11 1 I 1 V 1 kl i puffs replaced by ornamental caps I 1 the th trap of the sensation goods you S will have lave a 0 lot of money and bought something that will be either cither hideously popular in a little vi while lille or I 1 that will bo be merely bizarre and bad taste alter after the rush for foil nw now things I 1 Is over about the ICS all ail luck unless you can call secure tile the advice adelm tit ct conie one who ho has bas been abroad and i knows whether tile tho stuff Is accepted or a not there it if it Is inveia by all menus the one great point of b this and last years gowns I 1 ia r ini tho eleves much as aa the tight allevo I 1 is III dreaded by many women it t would he be ra much more matter mailer to total lorn rt it once to lo that over nover t he arm closely from wrist to tn shoulder than to offset tact tile the rhet from big currat in llio aln wy way it t it in being done jf if we ice knew that we must wear an ail all tight bleeve we probably in it ahil good grace but as it 11 is we are permitted to mask nut s k i the upper part ot of the he arm slightly or at clean to the tha and in so fio great ecat a ot was wals as to be confusing of u the five bodices pictured here no two it save sleeves filce of ft the tame bame sort yet each act 4 Is current that first shown Is the lie bout best of 0 tile the lot for a thin orm arm but or on five ah other hand has been in vogue I 1 loncer th anthe others it may allay be that hist the designer slener de of oc this bodice benned denned it 1 1 unusual ellough i without the addition of ill 4 ff 1 rl I 1 Z i I 1 I 1 11 A I 1 I 1 la 11 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 at Y 01 I 1 I 1 I 1 1 i I 1 r W j I 1 nl 1 I 1 wl I 1 4 11 4 1 i 1 r 1 1 1 X J 17 9 r 1 iab a aj if ti IV V I 1 I 1 I 1 1 h 1 1 1 I 1 1 I 1 11 1 I 0 latr I 1 1 6 44 r puffs that have 3 re busied upward Latt I 1 battling ling flear it was wait of gidy suit tag and hia aid luck lack ail anil pai partly lly liti it red alac 4 but ail entirely loon lonno froit roi m F in the file bentor T ali tl 1 liv iota it f ilia hie front at thi a wn block sto c it collar and were churned un on I 1 4 er at t b ht e walt in bloused effect over ore the shoulders were wll ame lice lace oc C equal depth back and front can and ft the 0 collar cellar waa handed with the panic aul bon it bows 0 we ornamented front nil and flee sleeves v C a an and d lace i trill frills finished the cristin A sleeve that Is much newer and that thai Is very handsome I 1 18 a shown in tile the second pic it la is of ift a type that Is IN slown shown in ili mat A arlley arll ty the caps J cing or all sizes and ma materials t earls 1 9 these arc ale larser larger than tho ilia average and were made or oc figured silk edged with nith embroidered chiffon the ripple basque was supplemented in front lv by ca a lace one and the fastening of tile the gai tient was concealed by white white chiffon chiff ort 1 g aye ave the bare telles too which were edged with like hir embroider rord rd chiffon a pleated collir lar topped the jilch vv velvet avet collar ca ilar you fou large buttons adelmond tin tho fronta which were edged alli narrow looped beald full guv a bodice of at this ill ih it alon oil ht chiora may 1 lie 10 0 answered to pact WC woner won arOlA rr tibt hillh uh 11 roper considers tiou for present filling cotor color pill brocad brocade in still ellore at and elaborately large patter its than I 1 year ri a return to he be soil soft allram weaves it diF disfavor favor for crispness avid and taffeta a of 0 the charin of 0 open weaves v the appearance of a weave much like homespun the final and entire tabooing tabo of oc silk for street terrt use ilse cheate aro are ot of the illk i hlina hinti for the coming season As to the last ct lt ement the careful dressers always accept this ihla Rs ai a final one alk has no lie place lanthe street the re itally ft 1 y careful carefully I 1 y dressed woman wears weara cloth anti and would feel na its much out of place on oil the straat in else us as the she mould 0 the beach in ill a ball drees A As the present plan Is plainly to come to tight cleeves bya gradual less ing or of all shoulder fullness the appliCe application talon 0 t stfan logic to the process would w simply reduce file hi puff slowly bart tho arin as the putt puff is push pushed ed u upward there mita could be no easier caller way out 0 of the matter and ami the only reason that it la Is not always dono done in that manner Is that arnore more ornate methods are arc many nut at ila llin easy way lay I 1 la the way that clial avoids call all danger ot of too conspicuous results tie BO many anally gowns are seen with sleeves like theme tho fe of tho the third thid ami a fourth alkil lit loiis blitch alch consists consla tg of 0 long ions tight parts meeting puffs that are arc ill not t more than one fourth as ble big as films eliat ill tit are dailve now being dl warded helge striped with black aks the fabric of the first of 0 these bodice bod icee which had vest bre telles and cuffs ot of lice lace tile tho aa 1 Z ff yZ 1 1 4 exl 1 1 I 1 A 11 1 I 1 I 1 7 7 1 1 I 11 1 1 1 I 1 i INV 1 I 1 A 0 I 1 11 1 I 1 1 I 1 lla 1111 1 I 1 it I 1 I 1 I 1 0 M O I 1 N t 51 I 1 A 1 I 11 I 1 I 1 i A I 1 t I 1 1 14 ti I 1 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 al I 1 11 I 1 A I 1 t I 1 I 1 1 again the tight pait fait crowds r 0 ads fullness I 1 goedl draped at either side ot tho abst lo 10 boim la lage box pl pleats eats R and 1111 then continuing to tile the walt ohp C 1114 worp were contented coneen ted liy by a a alde alth a bow tit lit the side aide j A wired lace collar a added to the surab stock clock the other badim was gray ilik 11 alli a wide anide corselet belt in tire the same f hade ot of which A fib as dilly pleated the nandan jacket was ot of blue fathi and hands or of sold gold and filver galao 1 I it was short lit il back but had longer loneer slightly pointed fronts the folded crillar wal as with a frill r tit of chiffon cogl d v ith blue and it still and the wide jabot were chiffon ahr rh bag front Is 9 not to bo be considered old tyl lyl ella hard to jo it will be I 1 P ill ed a certain at any rate it lull iii 1 as as lonk long as n approval app appl ppl loval ova I 1 doos does for ablit fancy Nv wail wai alt l bieh which are accepted ax as stal staple stallo lo ait ai tides leles of wear tho louis chat which did not met the hoped for last verr will lie U lit iagal I 1 1 tills season and per boft L fronts and hagget waistcoats are sure to lo hold as AL accessories top for such coats coals TI then t en tile the surplice bodice open lit in front will still be worn and the opening will be filled by EL basey baggy front that will attach itself to IL a high folded collar as ot of yore resides these there Is the sort that includes include a pleat or ornamental band ballu down the center of oc the front anti and M V az 11 A V 1 1 I 1 I 1 ihl I 1 11 I 1 lt a lff 5 I 1 1 IN r J ty f if 0 1 aj q 1 l apy I 1 IZ fa f lp N I 1 1 M V U 4 4 I 1 17 1 I I 1 1 11 aa I 1 it I 1 A i I 1 ri I 1 1 al 7 1 I 11 1 I I 1 k s 4 ly Z Y I 1 ak f 1 r 1 1 I 1 i tri lift i 1 1 1 1 1 ruffs buffs 11 vamp ing by slender threads Th rends a much longer W life ll 11 assured for tills I 1 his ta fa chlon UY by rain dels in fill materials that include striking novelties as to cut and ami of sleeves tile the concluding picture presents one or of these out cavit in ruby silk combined with lace tile tha silk nas draped over iivo tire this linini lining without alarta or bearns save rave those at tile the side and ivas draba drawn n tightly to to the th top tell and bottom so that the fullness formed ed tiny pleats the sleeves acre v ere lace over silk lining and had laise laige luby velvet burys pun s 0 escaping from it a latice lace shoulder cap bands of 0 lace edged with pleated ruby chiffon cameo over the shoulders but the licit belt baft as simp lyof lace ribbon collars will still be worn they are too loo becoming too easily made too inexpensive too suitable for nil all occasions to be discarded just bec cacka au e they have been worn it few beacons wo we aro are lit no longer K ali wild as wo we grated to bo be for novelty what we want Is 13 something becoming and when vo NIC rrt get it we stick kalck to it A lot of edtia staff alin and wado ribbons are already ini ilia polled for cc collar hinr use and a new hid for collar purchasers 1 li 14 4 made lit in it a matle ribbon collar this Is it ii collar length I ol of ribbon woven in one the pattern to la complete cimpl 16 FR that there may be no suspicion that the collar la Is cut from n iapoce for that spend money on finish the nort mort of nt folks that buy made villa alls and leavo lave doles to order thio these th io wo vural collars N ill 1 T at frelia allm baril front from ilse in ili l avail bf be the pall for 1117 ings ivo vor gat fl mor m or liking t hoar tile wish orall ken and noti sy Irbe inre inore delightfully than doos does taffeta ot of this silk ellk la 13 al 1 1 I 1 I 1 ready to drop and the will wise c 1 1 mill III take advant tog oB of tile fa fact ct elloda and g no 0 in in for linings ll thy alor al or and cashmere a that ihil are still on oil the market aro are wre sure to sell ECU at very to low prices and such i dikia 1 n lit III anake quaint and pretty linings even though ahey may lie altogether insult aln a abt bie for dreas drca as uge inc I 1 economy Jc co onomy in velm tion counts fur far more than the allore going AIt without hout that restrict la a cops COP right |
