Show I 1 A NEW HEW FUR FOR FOB THE SM SEASON I 1 i A budget of novelties from dame fashions realm ELLEN LETTER P I 1 another burthe the I 1 chrysanthemum Is past W and hi t the dahlias kahlias Dah lias day bay dawns FA fashions s 0 1 new mew flower and row how it la Is ex I 1 plotted from a cfall rail trousseau picture hats I 1 hava aava grown I 1 A or tribune new york Novt november nuber 0 I 1 94 there Is a new fur this season it la Is russian by nationality and in color it is a deep seat seal brown it la is called IONS 11 tl arid nd it made its new york tork debut last I 1 II 11 week sit at the opening of it the octal seaton season it came out that Is with the knickerbocker buds and bloss at the portrait and miniature exhibition t at the academy of design mrs mra cooper r hewitt illustrated its 10 possibilities in I 1 a novel coat and skirt dress drees entirely of 0 the fur ur the skirt was round less full than thail Is the autumn custom and trimmed at the bottom with a band 0 ot f kussian 1 sable above which was an edging I 1 I 1 of gold old cable cord the coat was close cloie 1 fitt irig had bad Us big sleeves with sable cuffs 11 slid and turned over in a roll collar and J revers faced with sable it fastened 1 with big sable buttons and was edged ell all about with will sold gold cord the modiste was daintily disposing dainty frocks in dainty boxes A little 1 group t of and skirt hands stood watching her with tribute of I 1 I 1 kt I 1 4 k I 1 I 1 A r 11 V ka 11 11 I 1 I 1 Z 4 I 1 4 1 f k I 1 I 1 I 1 12 I 1 I 1 v 1 q 1 I 1 1 agrout of 1830 wets hats fluttering interest which riot not e ven even the hardened dressmaker can retrain from paying to the pretty maidenly mysteries fles 0 of the trousseau the wedding dress was a rara ram avis unlike illino hundred and nin ninety ety nine wedding dresses out ot of a thousand it offered points of novelty its skirt full almost as for skirt dancing was of an exquisite white crepe do de chine bor I 1 dered with quaintly nuns bung festoons fes of 3 white chinon chiffon on the left side the soft 3 rippling glint ling train was caught up H with a bow of satin ribbon from which hung orange blossoms about thew alst 1 was tied a white satin sash whose long ions I 1 ends ids were knotted into a bow with more orange blossoms just above the falling fall lOE ribbons of 0 the train the bodice had a simple girlish yoke of putted puffed phanon the sleeves were arranged in alternate duffings puff ings of chiffon and crepe de chine and the shoulder straps were 11 of 0 orange blossoms blosa orae white satin uppers I 1 P 41 and a tulle veil were laid arith th these marvels of snowiness ness IA A going go Stif away dress for the bride was folded and patted with less ceremony 1 and yet the olive and red shot tweed was as warm and picturesque ai as any brunette could ask the simple i skirt had a band of gold colored ribbon at the hem a and ad the halt full bodice was waa gathered at the waist into a gold buckle and at the throat into an odd little stock of gold eold velvet fastening with a great butterfly bow behind A bandbox stood beside this box bok and into it I 1 went the olive velvet toque edged with 1 sable liable and having EL a particularly ly pretty I 1 crown of deep red velvet roses without I 1 foliage on either cither side of the crown nt at i the back were olive wings lined with I 1 red in ill front was a paste buckle the most original of the brides evening dresses was a white silk patterned ln lit pink and gold the bodice was I 1 draped with a a marie malle antoinette fichu biot 0 gold embroidered chiffon crossed in front and fastened st at the sides with i three small gold buckles the short sleeves were made up of an almost unaccountable number of 0 little chiffon frills dont stop atop said one girl to another other on broadway this morning dor or take us for 0 country cousins but everybody does stop to look at the milliners windows full of eccentric hats bats of the beason the 1830 sunbonnet calls itself a hat and tin no when you see itin black and white felt like one of those pictured you must call it a hat bat too loo though it does corne come down at the sides and back over hair and ears it will take white crepe do de china for trimming and a white aigrette in front standing up bl bi isaly and bold the chrysanthemum has had its day at least itt to in millinery the dahlia is its successful rival miss gertrude vanderbilt der bilt one of the seasons debutantes his has a toque built of deep pink and claret dahlias kahlias dah lias set side by bide aide the acty puffer respite like flowers howem alone form ing ng the brim the crown is of black felt while across the front tour four long slender riender black wings combining the 1 dahlia shades radiate to left and right I 1 pictured hats ats have grown they were ware supposed to have reached years rears 1 of full height and discretion but 1 winter they have hase taken a new start g E and bid fair to attain gigantic i lions eions the brims are arc broad turned up in n dashing fashion at the back and 11 bied with bows of brilliant velvet or i 1 i bunches of dahlia kahlias or spikes of bladt t oil A blonde beauty much amazed at f wore a hat or of claret velvet civet at ia fashionable club meeting mec ting the brim was and rolled aa if its de I 1 signer had gone fancy mad with curves 1 and crooking brooking cro oking pink dahlias kahlias were set into the bags some som close against tho the hair somo some drooping from antique ae rhinestone clasp almost to the neck the crown was trimmed 13 in s high bow of broad black satin asi rib tion P picturesque alft cr c r q ue sald bald the tha fer feminine ninin critics but 0 o it some of 0 little b bonnets I 1 lit it I 1 is s good 11 d t to atre k know nou in these daa da a 5 of ct 0 elaboration n are just t of red felt with IL na black ro rosettes tea and flat black fe athers athe rs ra T asvery er y now and then somebody turns I 1 up pit P blui it jh r remarks its about the princess rown ot 0 cobrae ita like evelt 1 tiling elic el IZ ic just when it t is imet pretty ty it m as 0 one special cl 1 a I 1 advantage over dr 1111 opeo lleces dresses egsa 8 I 1 r in two or more 1 pieces in that it d cant b M block lock the body out into top lop and bolis boldi di torn tom sections Bec tlona other things being equal it i it t I 1 la artistic to treat the figure more as a a V ll 11 e than to dreas it in divisions rt 4 abut but not all dressmakers rise to tile thi con les 1 captions here are two new princess princes creations creat long ph i one Is of green and gold mixed cl cloth oth I 1 u peculiarly graceful draperies two gold buttons accent the lower point pol lit on oil at t hp he left side the waist is close fitting aith avith a crecia velvet ni var i erol a gold boll colored jore I 1 crepe plastron ca rince ls L esuare bigaro ailt lit in green and sold a silk milk muslin bow 1 f I 1 6 k I 1 I 1 I 1 ozz 44 i 1 LOU 5 9 WI k 4 A t fr I 1 I 1 i 11 ol 01 V I 1 I 1 11 06 1 t I 1 J i I 1 T i I 1 1 aliv il I 1 i I 1 I 1 I 1 3 A I 1 I 1 picture hato havel grown at the throat and a green felt hat with plumes and satin bows the other Is of 0 yellow brown cloth with full tunic ic aught lip on the 0 left side bide and laid tin folds behind the corsage has a aspiss belt and a double breasted front with itla large lame rovers revers and big velvet buttons bu frons there goes with it 11 a brown capote with wings wines and velvet roses the knowledge of bodices Is in these days greatly to be desired even so ao small email part thereof as the knowledge of blouses Is an untenable untellable help in the PO solution lutiOn of dressmaking given a bairt of kindly and complexion six bodices will make mak p sit costumes out of it lor for fresh and fashionable appearance on all manner of occa occasions siona callton blouses axe are the order of the day this winter accordion plaited and taking yards enough for two iwo skirts to make one little waist and r sleeves leeves in white in pale preen green in turquoise s ba blue u e in yellow and pink and cherry their pierrot runs ruffa their big sleeves and their twinkling ribbon bows make the theaters piquantly I 1 interesting te A blonde girl who reversed the usual order of colors was a conspicuous figure in one of the playhouses last evenia her white silk start skir was looped with rosettes of black velvet ribbon and above it she wore a black chiffon blouse with balloon like puffs of black chiffon edged with narrow white ribbon for sleeves at her throat was a collar of white velvet studded with jet and at her waist a white corselet of the same material pretty frocks to show tastes trend peach silk slIk with purple velvet sleeves drown brown velvet with willi russian blouse trimmed with ivory lace soft halry hairy ivory ivoin cloth trimmed with russian sable black miroir velvet with corn colored silk revers ivory moire antique with blue chiffon blouse and pearls brown cloth with sleeves yoke and sash cash of corn flowered blue silk white silk embroidered with golden beetles wings white silk with sash or and id epaulets of crimson velvet pink silk trimmed with butterflies a and rid sit silver v er fringe ivory brocade with very pale pink and blue ribbon trimmings black silk with plaited scarlet chiffon veiling bodice and sleeves blue cloth with willi yoke and straps of name flame colored velvet edged cosed with let jet black c satin sash and d collet old rose cloth with silver to fox and green velvet trimmings black velvet hemmed willi ermine fur and tied about tile waist with a pink silk sash black and white with collet of cherry velvet woman oman are all shades ot of mauve arid and violet deep hued pink toning down to a faint old rose dahlia purples in infinite variety claret in a wonderful range of hues scarlet let tartan plaids and a lot of grayish and yellowish greens minor novelties are scorched clied lace bice dentelle ro rows assle le perforated beliet et for I 1 or coats and wraps with brilliant silk lining beefeater hat crowns seventeen new and peculiar stocks buffs buffs ruffs an and collars per day THE DUTY OF VISITING A great deal has been written in regard to the waste wast ot of time spent in als Is biting itan parties calls receptions etc in laige cities and lit in fashionable life ro doubt there Is much to call it forth but I 1 have seen more of 0 a tar far different aspect of 0 tills this question namely tile hie absence sem e and oft off anything partaking of a social nature until every other duty under hemen has haa brn boen attended tended il to in towns enill sn ill or large there Js Is a class of romel who consider any idleness any thorough enjoyment sin therill The they will do church work of various kinds attend literary clubs be cook housekeeper nurse mother and wife in one but look upon social duties as am who in fam fact do not liot count them thein as duties I 1 have known women talented active philanthropic christian christiam to allow months to pass before going to see a fa lend of the aamli family Y in deepest bereavement although they lived near by I 1 11 have ave known others who were helpful and kind during tile the first sharp shock of sorrow but who in the trying crying weeks and months following never gave their friends a alic cling visit word or note of n r remembrance A woman comes to a town own to 11 live v e she has been recently married a and nd has left behind her parents friends arid and a charming social circle she lives near inear women who attend I 1 the sinie game church and who meet her orien often perhaps I lr a few call formally once but most moat are aim constantly busy in ninth in othora erts meetings mist societies and sunday school work thoy ahr v never think it a part of their workday work nay privilege to go in to see the lonely neighbor for a social chat once or tw each week or invite her and her ausba husband d to call on them it simply imply never occurred occurred to them but it if it had they would merely have said we woul like to but time son goinn ale aie dying rayln not of ennui or ot of a frivolous round of 0 gaiety gayety but from social starvation there are plenty ot of people nice p popi opi e about them but rarely pr or nevar r I 1 meet in a purely social way they see each other in church lectures meetings of a temperance or benevolent na lure or at an occasional large reception or party given now and then by some ono one to pay up debts but really to enjoy and have leisure to enter entertain a few friends friend or to visit with work or some charming riot not too deep book TL a neighbor libor every few days or to give up a certain afternoon or evening each week to such enjoyment la Is not to be considered another class of women perhaps peculiar to our american towns are those who have tall an aversion aver Blon to what they call outside work and devote themselves to their homes in an excess of 0 zeal they dismiss their servant or servants lati and ana perform all tasks thern themselves selves ir if tho the children are roans they declare triumphantly that it la Is teaching them domestic duties impossible 0 I 1 ble with hired help this is all very well veil but what of the reality Is not the mother rarely strong nervous overworked and often too ton irritable to be the companion to husband and children she wishes to be Is she not generally too tired in the eventis evenings gs to read or do anything but retire a at t tin an un usually hour she it Is abo ho almo alao declares that of course she anus must t not te he expected to visit or make ca calls I 1 Is sho roes nowhere she Is a real homebody all such women wrong the themselves melves and wrong society lit life would be brighter it if the fluty duty of visiting were better understood the business journal DUTCH DELFT it Is the day of dutch delft and so great Is the demand tor for it that dealers are constantly obliged to replenish their stock of plaques candlesticks plates and other ornaments with th the exception ot of now arid and then a piece e most of this delft Is of course a reproduction of the old delft arid and much of 0 the cheapest Is not delft at all though it may copy the blue and white 1 and the ever present N vi windmill and water scene cene of the old ware in its decoration the large plaques with the rembrandt heads or decoration of 0 castle bastla or cathedral or good water scenes are expensive expansive but the little plaques plagues and plates bilth ath less elaborate decorations arid and in a very good imitation are sold for from 60 50 cents to 75 cents A pair of candlesticks in the same ware costs from 1 to 2 it la Is probably the vogue of the blue and white room that has created the demand for delft though there axe are blue and white ornaments in both 4 r 1 I 1 e e L t I 1 i 1 Z I 1 Z I 1 az I 1 11 1 w J v 1 1 I 14 I 1 1 4 i I 1 i V J N T qz 7 4 II 11 A I 1 I 1 w somo some new Prin princess ceas creations 1 italian and chinese wares that are used for the same purpose but for the blue and white colonial room these are probably not as suitable to give you an idea of how these rooms are lifted up I 1 will tell you of 0 two planned by well known decorators the first is 9 a bedroom and the wall has bas old blue denim used as a background with panels ot of old blue cartridge paper with silver traceries tra ceries lit a narrow white molding As it a frieze there Is a festoon of white brussels net edged with t a narrow W fringe the tesca center of the 1 to paper panels is cut away at icci about the height that pictures would lit be hung bung and little paintings in ill dal daik k blue water color on oil walto abito satin are inserted these paintings have dutch delft subjects as have also the chairs and other pieces of furniture it aich are of white enamel with here and there a sall sail a windmill or a little dutch house the draperies of the room are blue denim embroidered in white tor for the and white brussels net with a trill |