Show I 1 THE FROCK AS IT IS WORN I 1 I 1 I 1 f September Septem berin ln the shops and on the jhc boulevard HOW FASHIONS DEVELOP themselves for autumn we shall wear fringe gorne somo evening dresses and a trousseau seau COM and for winter PARIS sept 10 I 1 there ethere are re few more interesting places in parts paris to the student of human nature thin than tho the reading room ot of tho the bon marcho marche A priest enters seats himself st at the long ion table draws toward him a sheet ol of the tha paper dedicated to the use of fashions giddy votaries vot aries Arles and writes a letter full fall presumably of spiritual instructions two young japanese students stroll about looking at the pictures an from newyork new york drops spoil upon tho the piano stool and fingers a bar of a waltz tuno tune monsieur smiles over aluaro while maraino and lescure untold unfold and examine and discuss a dozen or more dress goods samples there Is the subdued air ot of tho the library carious curiously lv mixed mix edwith with the gaiety gayety and life of th the ofes cates while around rises from the floors bolow below and descends from tho the floors a bovo above the bustle and hum ot of tho the thousands intent on wherewith they shall be clothed in tho the reading room this morning it was my fortune to see mrs henry M stanley grown not less pretty since she married tho the african hero whiling nf away an odd quarte an hoar bour on the return trip from switzerland mrs stanley has gained color since the ceremony in westminster and while sho she enjoyed ono of tho the sights of 0 paris carls 1 I s started arted I 1 to write using the phrase applied to queens on their travels incognito thoro was opportunity to notice a very smart traveling gown own of creamy brown cashmere edged with a deep band of brown fur about tho the bottom and having a velvet bodice dodich crossed boll belt and cuffs and a 1 far I or neckband on her head she fitio wore A I 1 il I 1 I 1 if I 1 A I 1 I 1 1 V I 1 A 1 2 jo I 1 N I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 J 1 I 1 1 I 1 1 knock a brown bonnet with pink flowers and tn in her hand band sho she carried a boquet 0 of pink autumnal roses it Is a long ions jump from a lovely woman to trimmings but not only in the bon marche but everywhere in paris there Is an immense sale ot of fringes not the wide sorts simply which were used last winter and the winter before that on handsome hand somo reception toilets and dinner gowns but fringes ot of all widths tor for all purposes especially tho the old fashioned narrow fringes such as we wore when I 1 we affected gathered flounces and when the dust settled tn in the ono one sort of garniture and the other caught on everything I 1 tho thi now new gowns for autumn dances and tor for early winter festivities have the bodies cut with plain V shaped necks but very low as it if to offer the direct defiance of 0 gay paris to the london association said to have been formed to advocate tho the wearing of high evening dresses one ot of the prettiest of these toilets made by morin Blos for a young woman ot of the vanderbilt connection is a french muslin of a kind only just beginning to bo be seen ot of a palo pale cafe au aalt ground over which are scattered twigs of the yellow flowered witch hazel tho the frock Is almost sleeveless and is trimmed trim mod with corded flounce wide at thoi the back and sides and diminishing toward tho the front the flounce being headed with a puff ina ln a f fashion that many will remember and this puff edged with laco for a final I 1 I 1 1 I 1 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 it I 1 I 1 I 1 I 1 10 I 1 I 1 I 1 r t I 1 i I 1 I 1 1 17 I 1 I 1 I 1 Z I 1 f t OL I 1 P I 1 0 I 1 I 1 VI i I 1 1 i 0 I I 1 V I 1 I 1 I 1 CJ JAP el ruz COSTUME 1 finishing the neck has a low garniture at narrow velvet ribbons other iceo gowns koins are of oaneta nets powdered with velvet wafers as large almost as silver dollars and frequently contrasting in color with their grounds deep red di sporting itsell itself on oil biale and a rich brown on cheama cream A dark green ereon on black jq perhaps tho the handsomest at east so it appeared to mo me when enado up a tow few days ago over black silk for a 9 dinner dress for an american matron trained dinner gowns ot of the magni magnificent ficen t brocades brocaded bro cades which are ara among the early winter novelties alro cut with selita al 1 most inoa painfully narrow to show tho the rich material in straight folds fold without plaiting tile tho shape of 0 tho the train too hm has altered instead Ins toad of 0 spreading behind like i a fau fal or tho the tall of a peacock the he now train Is laid small and elozo lit in too the middle of th aback at t tho ho toil tol and the heavy breadths aro not gored to give 1 thorn them shape but fall all long and lull full in a trailing mass such for instance as sarah wears on tho stage it la utmost impossible to exaggerate the i gorgeousness ausness of these brocades brocaded bro cades ono gog just gjul acied for or ame mme carnot Is ol of a cream color striped with brown and silver with a mass of golden blossoms thrown against this ground tho the ti train Is covered with a creamy tulle lullo spangled with silver and sold gold tho the low bodice Is draped with the same material held in place by white camellias another brocade for a royal french princess royal sounds sound well even if ft in lance france or else it means very little except pretty dresses and not always thesa aleso is a heavy white stuff over which aro are strewn palo pale green and purple passion flowers tho the skirt shirt Is close lilting fitting with the train put on in in the back quite narrow tho the front and I 1 i I 1 1 I 1 1 I 1 1 11 Q r A I 1 I 1 11 A I 1 1 I 1 I 1 y k 1 Y Z I 1 I 1 1 I 1 1 d 7 1 I I 1 1 I 1 I 1 3 I 1 1 I 1 if it 1 1 k I 1 I 1 ZI IN P f I f i 1 LONG COAT AND TEA GOWN sides going almost completely round tho the figure the tha train Is covered this is a 1 I device of the mon men milli milliners nors against argallis t sitting or to reduce still further the time during which toilets keep t 11 air freshness with tulle sewn scum with pearls and trio the low bodic flaSs most elaborate I 1 ging trimmed about the neck and armholes arm holes with the crushed petals of m white bite roses which cross the bosom fringe tho the bodice and drop upon the skirt in trails A paris house is just giving tho the last touches to some handsome dresses for a new york autumn wedding A walking gown Is made with tho the corselet bodice which is tb the most fashionable device ot of the autumn the material is a goldon golden brown cloth with corso corselets cor lets of 0 brown velvet laced la in front and pointed top and bottom the skirt having a panel of tho the velvet overlaid with embroidery ot of silk guipure cord in shades hades s ol of brown and told gold the sleeves high on the shoulders but cut below tn in a shape approximating the plain coet coat sleeves of days before puffs and ri gots A second street dross dress p retty pretty and simple Is ot of a dull 06 electric etric gray with a smaller and shorter ty type pe ot of corselet like a swiss belt of a dovo kray gray lighter than the tha dress itself and almost entirely covered with 9 a braiding ot of black and silver cord this corselet Is loose from tho the underarm seams and laces over a bodice that Is gathered full both back and front and that has bolero straps about the armholes arm holes and a high dog collar closely covered like tile the corselet cor soloi with braiding the tha skirt has haa a full fall back and an apron front draped irregularly it is wonderful what a fancy afancy there Is at the moment tor for black tea gowns one which belongs to tho the trousseau just mentioned Is ot of black brocade with a train it opens in front like a long cloak with two panels of 0 white silk covered with silver embroidery there arc full white and silver sleeves another which was ordered FL few weeks aso ago for miss genovieve genevieve ward Is of b lack silk with fiant and over sleeves of silver tho the edge of the over overdress dreTs finished all about with a narrow silver fringe the full bodice tied at tho the waist with black and silver ribbons A young american who will bo be a debutante in december a and ad who is buying under tho the supervision of an aunt an outfit whereby european Uuro capitals are sprinkled with gold god has included in her purchases a tea gown which in stylo style is most original tho the material Is silk striped in white and deep cream the bodice Is made like a mouse blouse and fastens on the lett left side under the arm the sleeves are gigot and the ikirt plain in front and on the hips the overdress of deep dall daffodil odil yellow cloth fits closely to the waist behind but in front it Is open from tho the shoulders whore where it Is gathered above the arms in short draped over sleeves the overdress has a trimming of 0 cream and white fringe and lies on the floor in a short train it is almost needless to add that its future wearer is a brunette of a pronounced order two colors contrasted outer enter into most ot of the pretty negligees pale amethyst and deep purple bronze brown and blue palo pale green and gold are the favored combinations with frost arid and the dropping of the loaves leaves wo shall see seethe the street dress begin to warm itself with fur on the models thus far finished tho the skirt is oton tucked tacked about tho the bottom and below tho the tucks comes a fur band which has tho the appearance of running completely about the dress and which indeed often does docs so but oftener contrives by a cunning arrangement of draperies to skip the plaits and avoid the weight and clumsiness which oro aro the drawbacks to fur far garniture fur Is used also as a narrow heading to puffs and flounces and youns girls whose figures tire are very slender will wear fur girdles or crossed belts as well as furred collars the now new tallor tailor mado made browns take considerable fur trimming they are most simply arranged tho the skirts gathered closely at the middle of the back the jacket bodle bodices having ono long furred revers and sometimes a furred rollar furred waistcoats aro are displayed tor for sl blender eilder women both in light and dark colors A winter dress in shepherds plaids Is dotted with fur waters wafers the halt dollars another in s a chev cheviot lot check in black and green Is made with a black fur corselet cut in a double point with tur fur cuffs and collar collan plush and velvet street dresses and more mora especially carriage costumes trimmed with tur fur are likely to bo be extremely fashionable mado made with plain tight skirts fur bordered and short jackets with fur culls calls and collars golden brown boater beaver used on brown velvet Is having in this way a great revival russian sable is fashionably used on all materials and colors A palo pale gray velvet trimmed with table sable was furnished recently to christine nilsson if long cloaks are reaching a hight 0 of popularity never attained by them thein before everybody is buying them to wear on every possible oc occasion caslon tor for evening for tho the carriage for the street and tor for tra lra cling whito cloth cloaks are much seen scon with over capos of design or made elaborate by long angel sleeves arid and high ruil liko collars of 0 while velvet and birdies other cloaks are in paletot shapes with capes with edth raised sleeves and having tho il shoulders boulderS iov with plush yokes cut alike jillso fro front A t and back and finished it at the anoints with bassols of at silk mid and beads the newest jackets disdain loose fronts and soine have the back and tho the high I 1 collar tut tilt all in one the shapes shape are a amplo with sleeves alcoves put in full at tho the shoulders and the decoration Is very vor generally gon orally narrow black braid in fix most intricate designs when tho the braid matches tho the coat in color a little tinsel may lio be mixed with it but the bright gleams are never e allowed to show ow with enough prominence to become obtrusive some ol 01 the coats ot three anar ter length are am cut in battlements balt lemonta at tho the bottom and edged with gold cord which forms the trimmings of tho the lap flap pockets and gauntlets gauntlett gaunt lets ELIE ller |