Show h ps p and nd Only Actresses Actress s and and Wives of Rich Men den Care For Dress ess All French Women W Want Fine Lingerie 1 Copyright lOO by R H Burns Bums Paris May 16 It requires cast iron resolutions allied to a N New w England conscience co science and combined with wIt a arran Fran Franciscan Franciscan monks indifference nce to the vanity of fine raiment for an American wo woman w woman man to visit Paris Panis and withstand with tand the temptations to shop She may ma mago go pre prepared prepared prepared pared to devote all her er powers physic physical al and financial to churches and 1 pic i I ture galleries but the Parisian purvey purroY purveyor or of finery has not been hatching ad advertising adI I I plots and studying the tha femi feminine feminine eI nine nature for nothing He knows enough to realize that it through big announcements in in the newspapers pers that he is going to gather his proper harvest of American dollars Women he has discovered never I read newspapers when they travel I which accounts for the pitiful paucity of advertising in tle daily journals To Tomake Tomake Tomake make up for this every enterprising I milliner or modiste employs if possible a clever young woman whose business it is to look lookup up daily the published lists of neW fleW corners comers to Paris and tid examine the registers of the hotels and pensions This employee then sends out through the mail matI cards I and letters of advertisement and fol follows follows follows lows up that maneuver by calling in person on many of the travelers Such SUC l advertising is contrary to the Amer Amei AmerIcan Amerlean ican lean precedent but it works like a charm in Paris arisian Methods The little solicitor of patronage patron ge is I always selected for good d looks and for the possession of a caressing plead pleading pleading pleadIng ing persuasive manner manpei that disguises delightfully a most enormous amount of cheek She usually speaks English with an accent that makes it worth worthwhile worthwhile worthwhile while to listen to her ter and ind if she sh is a I solicitor for a her figure i strikes envy to the heart of the be beholder beholder beholder holder if a milliners mU agent her hat Is a silent but none the less ag aggressive aggressive aggressive advertisement ent for the house she represents There Thera Is no use trying I to avoid her because with the meek meekness meekness ness of a worm and the obstinacy of a I mule she gains gams admission and an in interview interview j sooner or later sometimes I with only the cards of her firm ta to t dis din dispense dispense pense but often enough with a tidy tid black brass bound little case in her hand that holds an alluring example of her stock in trade She will whip up stairs slide sUde past pant the servant at the door delicately in intrude intrude intrude trude even into a sick room and ten to one capture the victim she has in chase Often enough she is the head of her own establishment spends her mornings thus drumming up up a clien clientele clientele clientele tele and the afternoon slaving in her shop or fitting room It Is by these two methods that the dealers in specialties and the dressmakers advertise them themselves themselves selves S while the big deportment department stores of which there are about ten in Paris ignore the scheme of newspaper ad advertising advertising advertising for the director means of an announcing announcing flouncing the season openings anti and nd special sales on gorgeous posters These as the French call them themar are ar got up with all the artistic case care given those put out by the Ule p publishers theatrical managers and patent med mcd medicine medIcine sellers and they justify the I money and labor lobor spent on them par particularly particularly tl as the foreigner in Paris in invariably Invariably Invariably variably halts to take in the posters everywhere as part of the city sights Having taken all aU these particularly clever precautions pr cautions for waylaying the American woman the Parisian can cana n nc conscientiously c a ns sl let his lS shop windows do the rest In the United States we have larger windows aindow pressed with gaiety and tn ws W t e light 1 then better and nd give tw mor r impresSive Sive spread of plate glass gla but the re results suIts are not nearly so fascinating f and anSI effective efie Uve as with the hundreds u s of little tl windows some same of them not more than five feet wide awl ani six fet feet f et high that line hine the festive boulevards of Paris j The Once inside a Frena ishon be b it a aI aI I tiny depot for one sp g laI alil dainty n or a abig abig aI I I big department depar he f L of the t p employees S and the th proprietor J Jor or r ten clinch clin h a bargain Paris has no un uncertain uncertain n certain estimate as to the value of I American patronage and in conse conseQuence Quence there are few shops where enough English En Ush helped out with W th inn infinite i ite French courtesy and quickness of intuition cant conclude a purchase satisfactorily ny while Vh tie in eight out ou t of ten establishments the American will be I answered red in her own On language spoken with perfect fluency The linguist Is i either some salesman or woman im urn S S 5 9 fI f S 4 t 4 1 2 I II I I I I 4 Ill hi hiS S C CAT j Op fj fl fly flAT y AT All AN A OLD rOLD LINGERIE LL GE SHOP ON THE RUE HUE ST MICHAEL MIC WHERE FIERCE OLD WOMEN SELL TO FRIVOLOUS DRESSMAKERS GIRLS LS ported from England else a member of the shopkeepers firm or family who has made it a business to acquire the ever extending tongue and aside from the comfort of negotiating tinting hon her purchases in her own lan language language guage the American woman likes the flattering attention and courteous gratitude that attends her smallest purchase In Paris Pans the politest salutations be between between tween purchaser and salesman or wo we woman weman man are exchanged and this is ex expected expected in the big as well as the little shoos and what at first shocks and amazes it eventually pleases the traveler from the states is the pose possibility of beating down prices on some occasions and the temptation to buy buyon on Sunday It is along the Rue de Riv oil and the Palais Royale where the enticing imitation jewelry photo photographs photographs graphs etc are sold that the keen thrill of getting a thing at less than its ticketed price may be enjoyed and haggling is reduced to a fine art Lit LitA LitS S q r f SJ I Ir r f iiPP Q I 7 J L LR ft R lilt 3 A Siren of the th Rue de Who Tempts the Passerby emIly so long as there is a possible buyer floating along the street the dealers in a small way keep open un us until unI I til nine every night if there comes in a customer and most of them are prepared to sell seIl all day Sunday Their Complicated Ways s S What the traveler In iii France quickly learns is to shop in ip the morning if she wishes to do so in peace and quiet but in the afternoon if she wishes fishes to see the Parisians abroad broad It is well wen on toward 9 before the stores in Paris are open and ready for customers but not until she has hind had her mid midday ay breakfast does the th native n tive sally forth to bargain and visit her dressmaker In Inthe Inthe Inthe the afternoon the Parisian department stores are a seething tempest of eager women and overworked oI and to the American womans idea l the thi th busi busl business ness of buying and selling saIling i is con conducted C n ducted du ted on a av aver very ry much simpler and easier plan at home homen o n is iio One huge huire we store in Paris II where it is possible to secure at the thedoor thedoor door a of little tickets that serve exactly the same purpose as the convenient transfer card ard but at all other stores of an equal size when the clerk concludes a sale he carries the article purchased to the nearest caisse or desk and followed by the customer recites the amount and nature of ot the purchase aae to the bookkeeper who puts it all aU down in his big ledger makes the Change hange and then waves madam and the clerk off to the parcel counter where the article is wrapped wr up lip It is isan isI isan an amazingly complicated system but I the Parisians regard it as an evolution evolution tion of genius Paris Prices Are High Cheap shopping to a large class of American women is after all aU one of the prime reasons of their visit to Paris and it is 18 the belief of many who now so KO abroad on bargain bargains bent that the day of economical shopping in the French capital has passed pa sed away So it has to a large extent and the great dressmakers and milliners of the Rue de la Ja Pix Rue Royale Boulevard Haussmann mann etc whose fame is world worldwide worldwide worldwide wide and whose models set the fash Lash fashions ions laDS undersell but by a few dollars their th ir fellow tradesmen on the other side of or the tile Atlantic They hey can count counton counton on the patronage c of ef U K enormously en rich American and English women the European royalties an the smart ex extravagant actresses and their bargain days are few and far between and while the fashionable shopping season is 16 on it is just as cheap to buy a ward wardrobe wardrobe wardrobe robe in America Longheaded and pa patient patient tient French women of small means have hae taught the moderately well to do American that the science of ot economical economical cal shopping lies In waiting until the of June At that date the sales begin and then even n the most import important Important I ant creators of delicate confections at ata ata ata a tremendous sacrifice clean out their dress dresa closets hat cupboards CUD boards etc of ot every last left lett over article There are thrifty women in Paris Pans whose business is to be in first when the sales begin and buy up all the best r bargains offered Dresses es that m tn May would sell for they secure for 20 and then in their own little shops chiefly situated along the Rue de Province Province ProvInce ince they cater to toa a large number of customers to whom they sell at a profit of from 3 to 8 on every gown Every season in Paris there are sales sale of the wardrobes and of great ladies and bankrupt actresses closely attended by these bargain ven yen venders venders ders dens Furs laces jewelry exquisitely fine underwear napery and toilet arti article article cle cbs In ivory and silver sUver is what they buy up and sell again in their remark remarkable remarkable remarkable able shops where even eyen if nothing is bought a delightful hour bour may be spent examining the curios and often vain valuable valuable able collections there brought together and filling the small dusky room wit artistic disorder In such places place and andin in the little out 01 ot the way streets of old Paris downright t cheap can be done but as a age agen general ge gen r ral l rule and anti with the exception of gloves and a few tb r articles special specialties specialties ties of French art Hit simple clothes cus custom torn tom made gowns cotton underwear shoOS shoes handkerchiefs stockings etc are actually cheaper che per in the United States Low priced French labor Jabor can cannot cannot cannot not do so 80 well so 80 abundantly or so economically ally the work ork of American machinery besides ides French women of but one class dress a as well as the av aver average er age e American woman or care one half so much about fine American Women Lead the World In spite of the fact that the fash Lash fashions fashions ions of Paris lead the world the wo women women women men seen daily on streets street are dressed with an economical simplicity that serves as ks a striking contrast when the traveler comes directly from an Amer American ican iea city To tell the truth with the th exception of the distinctly rich women and the actresses the average Paris Pans leone ienne cares very little what she wears provided her costume is tidy The wife wIte of a small tradesman Is 18 too Keen about ab ut hoarding to waste the family s income in foolish fine feathers She likes It a good black gown and a plain dark bonnet while the laboring classes cling cUng to dark dresses and crisp white whitecaps whitecaps whitecaps caps and a gorgeously gowned wo woman woman woman man in a bus or footing It along a a dusty street is sure to be from Amer Amen America lea ica or England A Frenchwoman begins to cherish a fondness for fine plumage as soon as she is th able to ride in her carriage and when she reaches that point she scorns to wear readymade frocks The good dressmakers of various prices are too plenteous for that and when a French Frenchwoman Frenchwoman Frenchwoman woman is distinctly rich her shopping it is done at home It is possible possible possible ble to shop around for years in m Paris Pans and never nev r lay eyes on one of the great greats social s ial or theatrical theatric l lights They go goof goof goof of course occasionally to the great grea t mediates sit in big arm chairs and after watching the models solemnly parade up and down in the newest n costumes make their selections but all the work of fitting is done in madams own boudoir and every morning madam devotes an hour or orto two to to toa a corps of women carrying black boxes or baskets who are purveyors to t a private and valuable valuable valuable able clientele of delicate specialties One of the most prosperous dealers In handkerchiefs and laces in Paris who sella sells often otten hundreds of dollars worth of goods daily has no shop at atall atall atall all Her shop really is a square case that looks like Jike an English dispatch box and every morning this is filled with samples of novelties and Madam Max goes the rounds of her wealthy and nd luxurious patrons to receive orders and deliver goods and display new models She takes all the output of the and linen from rom one province provin e and keeps a num number number ber her of expert n constantly at work in her top floor rooms on the Rue des Petites Champs In exactly the same ame case are num numbers numbers numbers bers of for if there is one ex extravagance extravagance extravagance the French woman of every class cla leans toward it is not only fine but exceedingly ex elaborate under und r linen A woman who allows herself but one new gown a year is willing to spend the price of half a dozen dosen more costumes on white Dett coat covered with lace and night robes fit for a duchess There is the who whips real lace onto hand band woven linen for the ladies ladles of the Champs district and down along such unfashionable thorough thoroughfares thoroughfares thoroughfares fares as the Boulevard St Michael there are shops shoos presided over by fierce looking ing heavily moustached old women who sell marvels of complicated lace t to toP actresses and frivolous dressmakers poor P ers ens rs girls who share with the gre ladies ladles this love of Delicate dressing This is what makes Paris the most fa La famous famous Lamous spot root in the world for cheap and beautiful muslin underwear not man manufactured manufactured manufactured in noisy work rooms to the music of hundreds of sewing machines m hin s but m in in the badly lighted back closets of the shops and in the tho th garrets by needle needlewomen needlewomen needlewomen women who put in every very stitch by hand band v vand and receive for a lace loaded night nightdress nightdress dress that require iv tuo to o days and a half night to make no more than 5 EMILY ILY HOLT cents |