Show What W ar I 4 Q I Satin Algion Satin and Venetian Panne Are Leading Novelties in October Dress Goods New York October 1900 Figured roods goods whether Uk or wool have all been Ignominiously y retired to the bar bargain bargain gain counters A tripe stripe or dot is permitted of course indeed they are never out of fashion but all the cash cashmeres cashmere mere meres voiles flannels etc that I are to be wrought into gowns show none non but plain surfaces M The dots and I striDes es 6 will do their duty in the field of shirt waist manufacture and mean meanwhile meanwhile meanwhile while to linger at a counter where the now new silks are are spread forth is to enjoy enjoyS S i iI iI iL iA I I L A Brilliant nt Jacket Waist an artistic treat Satin crepe and Venetian V panne are the richest and newest fabrics of ot them all allAs allAs allA As A to satin proper there is little or none of o It called Into use by the dressmakers ers this season and the satin du jour satin tin and satin that we hear bear and see so much of are no nomore nomore nomore more than very rich silks with a sheeny heeny heen finish that sometimes is ir iridescent iri iridescent i Satin for example is the of which the pictured evening own gown is i wrought It is in the new color colori i aIled snow white which is white i C lough when spread ad flat fiat before the eye i It at changes to a strange violet iolet tint hen ihen tossed into folds A full frill of i accordion pleated chiffon ripples a the foot of ot the skirt over an under of violet silk The same treat treatment r ment ent appears appe s on the bodice and an ap of cream crem white Malts Malta lace glittering with gold threads sufficiently coates oate d the overdress and shoulder bane band ban f Braid Decoration There Thre continues a general use of 11 heavy eav a silk braid hr Jd in Louis XVI pat patt t on the stiff gowns Many women I refer Jr fe when buying cloths to t trim the surface of the goods but slightly lightly li and give the beautiful quality If f the cloth a 8 chance hance to be appreciated The clearest explanation of how this is done is given ghen in the sketch of an ex extremely smart afternoon aft walking suit The rhe he goods g In this instance is 1 rich looking brown atin aUn faced suiting made up with a at t afe tate au an lait silk Bilk bodice and black silk figure braid The silk finely tucked firms rc the snugly fitting collar allar nd vest while below the cloth bolero it blouses out quite plain A reference should be made hero here to the growing favor of brown this sea season sear seaon r son on and the almost limitless gradations i of or tones which the dyers seem now able ble j to produce So caressing and warm are many of oC the shades in which brown goods can now be bought that even a aA ail il ili i J fJ l 1 4 M 44 q r Ff J 9 f J t 11 f t t H Ii h i ft J it itt t itt itI if t J Jq I 11 q a ai I A Brown Satin Paced Faced Cloth Trimmed With the New ew Louis Sixteenth i d Braid S very pale or a sallow woman oman can canI J I choose tone that will lend to her com corn complexion cornI I vr both color and clarity An extremely popular combination is isS f S brown with gray and in fur this is productive of the happiest happi st results A pretty girl was attracting a great deal I of admiration from her sister ulster shoppers the other day by her coat t and skirt of QZ cedar brown serge The i coat was wu a fantastic little bolero that i displayed d liberal portions of an oyster er gray silk Around Mound her neck went I t scarf scar of chinchilla ending in a half halt I dozen n fluffy mink tails while an ar lr arof of mink fur ur an and a large strass buckle adorned her gray velvet toque The Use of Cashmere Serge and cashmere have recovered all their popularity with wom worn women women en who prefer their winter gowns at once warm and light in The Vicunas Venetian cloths broadcloths and covert cloths are warm enough but too heavy to be comfortable when a workday suit is desired and to deco decorate decorate decorate rate a broadcloth with anything else than braid or stitched straps is quite out of the question A beautiful French Fren h winter cashmere on the other hand ac accepts accepts accepts tucks and even ruffles to its great benefit and how many of the cash cashmeres cashmeres meres are ruffled is showed in the pic picture picture picture ture of ot a morning mO gown of cheerful plum color This girlishly graceful lit little little littIe tle tIe toilet boasts seven frills on the skirt and the jacket waist has five small wavy highwayman spreading out on the shoulders Down the front of the waist runs a double row of dull gilt buttons and a folded f ribbon wrought wr uSh of bullion threads de le deInes defines fines Ines the waist line How many jacket waists by the way we do see see this a t mn The fashion was popularized last winter and prom promises promises promises to hold its own into nineteen hun hundred hundred hundred dred and one On some of them the costliest decoration is l lavished while the skirt with which It is orn om wil will be peculiarly simple A substantiation of this is shown in the sketch of a jacket waist made by a leading modiste for forthe forthe forthe the young lady Indy wed Mr Al Alfred Alfred I Ifred fred Vanderbilt Both skirt and coat of biscuit colored ladys cloth form a a beautiful carriage arriage and calling suit The rhe skirt is sev t rely ly simple but the coat eo at has a shaped band of ot turquoise blue panne encircling the body about the level of the bust and shoulder blades This is stitched with heavy white silk sUk threads Touches of ot ott t t I i t I f i r iv 1 I e I Dinner Gown and Satin ii the blue stitched panne appear on the collar cottar sleeve caps and cuffs while cir circular culat cular ornaments of deep cream Cleam rennals sance salce lace brightened with gold thread are set at irregular intervals over the fronts of the coat A large jabot of cream silk muslin fills in the front of the jacket edged at right and left by loops of black velvet velet ribbon falling from small dull gold buttons New Umbrellas Every one in need of a new umbrella should prepare themselves now for 1 rainy winter weather and the designs in umbrella handles even justify ex extravagance extravagance extravagance A black silk covering and anda a silver sUver grip is the nicest combination for In silver the novel designs are un unusually unusually usually nice An artistically wrought caduceus a figure of f Daphne Dl being metamorphosed into laurel tree a a shaft shaf 1 curved and wrought in somewhat the shape of a bishops pastoral staff have hae with scores of other and equally inter interesting interesting interesting esting designs all in silver come to take the place of the tawdry t gilded glIded jeweled painted porcelain and crystal handles which foX for fo the past few sea seasons seasons sons song have commanded t d th the greatest popularity It remains to be seen whether wom worn womankind womankInd admittedly uncertain rt coy and anc hard to please will take kindly to the little eton jackets which the thought thoughtful ful manufacturers are making to sell with the flannel blouses they provide Now why hy should not those jackets cut like boleros with revers be popular A flannel blouse Is a very comfortable garment to wear under a heavy winter coat but on coming in tn doors on 91 a cold col colda day da and removing ones heavy wrap there is for a sensitive person a mo momentary momentary momentary sensation of chill which often oCten leads to a cold This Is lq because the flannel garment does not fit close to the body and here the tiny jacket should be of great advantage It is just the color of the blouse upon which It is slipped it is lined with silk aUk it has no collar and its sleeves come only to the elbow and moreover when it is don donned donned donned ned it gives the sometimes slouchy looking blouse a tidy and decorative appearance However the fate of this little eton hangs still tIll Ull in the balance the shirt waist makers are showing them in every color of flannel flanne and taffeta their edges finished with stitched bands of cloth or taffeta t Frivolities of the Fan Fa Fa FaWe 1 We expected something new in fans with the coming of autumn and our expectations are fully futty justified The lost ost elegant toy to of the toilet is a fan I I of medium size and having solid blonde shell sticks Upon them is drawn a apiece apIece apiece piece of white lace woven with two ova oval openings in the mesh These openings are presumably to enable the wielder of the fan fautt to still survey vanity fai fair when she lifts the costly trifle before her h r face tace to hide a blush a n frown or a yawn Exquisite painted silk and nd silk gauze fans are now made maJe with win windows windows windows dows in their expanse and the win are s webs of lace and the fairy shutters shutter of lace actually work on hinges anc and have loops and buttons by way o ot of latches MARY DEAN S 4 S 0 I v I J 49 I i iJ I J JJ I I IJ J J L LA T A COSTUME OF PLUM COLORED CASHMERE TRIMMED WITH WirTH FRILLS OF OP THE SAME J r ar F 1 r i i 1 L or orr I r 1 i r j CORRESPONDENCE CONVENIENCES |