Show Daughters of Eve I AI HAIR DRESSING IS AUT now Some Ki moiiH Beauties Wear Their hair The hairdresser is the only serious man in our epoch writes Mme De Ciiardm better known to the French public as Delphine GaIn Ga-In France where hairdressing is a great art all the work is done by men In America the women monopolize the bus ness But they are quite as erica eri-ca as I discovered by spending a jrolng in a Broadway salon de cuilCure T chairs in front of the long mir1 ITU ere filled with lovely somebodies and i lam nobodies their features in the mirrors being carefully studied by tl > r > hairdressers to discover what style of hairdress best suited each American women do not give enough time and study to their coiffures coif-fures said madame as I took my Seat You lo mostly what Is stylish In Paris they do what is becoming If it is not stylish then they make it so What are to be the popular styles for summer find spring I asked HOW TO COIL THE EMPIRE KNOT The Empire knot will be more pronounced pro-nounced than ever It will be worn In the middle or low on the head for street and quite high for evening She then showed me the proper way to make it Should the woman wear waved or cur > d hair the waving should be done tnfore the knot is made and then left uncombed The remaining hair is drawn closely up to the center of the head There it is caught firmly by the 4 rijht hand while the left winds it sialelit out from the head like a coil of rope When it is quite tight the r < pe of hair is brought forward and twisted into a loop that should standup stand-up prominently The first hairpin is 2 then put in securing the loop at the tl while the left still holds the strand in place at the bottom Two Tiairpins secure the bottom of the loop and then the rope of hair is wound its lenp h about the loop If the side and back surface hair has been waved it is brought loosely up into the knot I L 4 MRS J LEE TAILER its ends tucked out of sight After all ti s is done and not till then a long fine comb is lightly run through the waxes or hair With the utter disregard for the fitr > ° = s of things that the fashions of tnis year haY already shown adds Viaaame this Empire Knot is to be enhanced by a large Spanish comb of tortoise shell that mus1 be placed just lack ot the knot or at the side as the Spanish women wear it Madame Calve who created such a furore as Carmen thIs winter is responsible re-sponsible for the wearing of the high bpamsh comb by the smart set It it to be adopted wIth all styles of coif fares Is not the hair to be arranged more elaborately for evening wear this summer sum-mer than it was during the past winter win-ter I think not As crimpled hair has ginp entirely out so is the elaborate haudres inc gone also They take just as much time over it with much r nruhmg and singeing and having the scalr daily massaged to producer produce-r wth but they have found that lab orate crimping and building up of coif lures necessitates a wig in the end A woman spends as much time and money on a simplydressed head as on an elaborate one just as a smart tailor pown costs as much as a ball gown Elegant simplicity is now the most expensive ex-pensive condition of dress 110W TO GET A GOOD WHITE PARTING f1I0W And the parting in the hair mad am will it continue in favor Yes to attain a good white parting one should come the hair from the crown of the head down over the eyes The comb should be leveled from the tip of the nose straigat up through the hair This insures a straight parting Then with a finer comb each hair should be carefully picked out to either side for what an amateur considers a straight parting an expert finds faulty A little tonic rubbed on the parting once A day and then the hair rapidly and vigorcasly brushed away from it on either side produces a gloss that is becoming I noticed that all the women in the room were having their hair arranged with the fashionable parting in the cent fl cen-t Undoubtedly no coiffure for sum iner will be considered correct unless that white line shows somewhere above the forehead Women with lender faces so my In fonnant went on to say should never allow the parting to be pronounced A short soft fluff of hair should be worn across the eyebrows to relieve the severity se-verity This should be especially observed ob-served with high foreheads If the i foreheed is law and the face slender I tien the fluff in front may be omitted i but the hair coming from the sides of i the parini should be cut short and J 4 I t pr a 1 P 1 t ftelJ fT I I Y = 11 o J 1 ji 17 1 AlUlAXGEMCXT OF H4IR curled thai it may hang about the tem plC8 These locks should be slightly eon JViefi by invisible hah pins lor nothing Js ntldler than half curled hair dangling dang-ling about the face only the most youthful face can stand it The parting irom Ui forehead to the knot at the back of the head that Hiss Tohnstine Bennett On young comedienne comed-ienne always adopts Is stylish but beware be-ware of Its las inatJons The shape of the head must be very broad to use it A slender head should wear the parting only for a short distance even If the knot is at the back of the head Madame told me that some women I who make a fad of this parting have SCn or two lines of hairs pulled out I Tifon either side to produce a broader space and that each Jay the parting is thoroughly rubbed wIth a weak solution so-lution of peroxile of hydrogen and warm water by a stiff nail 1 brush This removes re-moves any d1 ttht may settle there 4 t 1 The result of the side bangs worn some three years ago is a parting that is most objectionable It curves around the head from ear to ear It is the despair of twothirds of the women for these same side bangs have not grown enough to cover it A cure says madame is not to crimp so tightly Wear the bangs I straight as often js possible brushed I back and pinned to the other hair When they must be curled slightly I I wave them over a large iron and be I I careful to catch them back to the hair The hairpins may not be artistic In the side of the hair but of the two evils they are the less Again the i j I hair grows back quickly with this treatment i treat-ment I mentHOW HOW TO WAVE THE HAIR As the waving of the hair is the prin I I = I I I i I I I J I slits FRED GEDHRD cipal feature of hair dressing this season sea-son a glance at madames methods will be instructive I She uses very large irons Two orj I I three are heating at a time Before i using she tries them on tissue paper I I if it does not scorch she goes ahead j I The hair on each side of the parting is divided each division is combed then wrapped about the irons and held for a minute The hair Is wrapped upward up-ward toward the parting This gives a more graceful ripple The hair near the ears is waved backward The hair is not combed out until the heat has entirely left it Should the hair not commence its waving near enough to the parting the iron is run under and clamping it rolls it upward This gives the spring from the parting that is so sought after The hair in the back is waved after the same manner If the face is long and thin never let the back hair sag but pull it up firmly t into the knot The Madonna coiffure is going out Few women can stand the effect of the hair over the ears although It is well to adopt it if the ears are large and stand out It is unquestionably swell to wear plain coiffures if the face can stand it Mrs Humphry Waid whose face Is round and whose complexion is fresh asa as-a schoolgirls wears hsr hair with abroad a-broad parting from forehead to knot which is at the back The hair is rolled clearly back from the temples without a suggestion of waving The entire effect ef-fect is severe Mrs Kendal whose hair is her chief personal pride adopts somewhat the same style of head dress as her coun 1 SIRS KENDAL trwoman but she has many curling tendrils that fall from the wavy mass that she carries back to the round graceful knot in the center of her head Mrs J Lee Taller Marie Stirling the Baltimore beauty wore a most stunning coiffure at her recent marriage mar-riage Her curly hair was bright auburn au-burn It was broadly parted down the lrgag tfafe g center and rolled back from the forehead fore-head in natural waves Not a curl was allowed on the low white forehead with its well defined eyebrows At the end of the parting on the crown of the head was built up a loose Empire knot with a few curled ends of hair peeping out around it Mrs Duncan Elliott the leader of New Yorks young smart set tries her beauty in an heroic manner but it does not suffer Her hair is chestnut glossy from much brushing Without a wave or curl she rolls It in a loose cloudlike cloud-like mass from the parting back to the neck where she coils it In a loose Empire Em-pire knot This style she doesnt ater for street or evening wear Sometimes she places a diamond star in the front of the parting PRESENT STYLES FOR VARIOUS AGES For older womenthose with gray haIrthe hair is worn in a large loose plait that is wound about the back of tne head and caught with large toi toHe shell pins From the parting the hair is softly waved and rippled back into the knot It is stylish to confine these side waves by small shell combs that are placed behind the ears Young girls of 16 will hold in favor the Marguerite coiffure For this arrangement ar-rangement plait the hair very loosely then turn it up bringing the end up to the top of the head finishing it therewith there-with an Alsatian bow of black velvet If the hair is 1 waved the effect is more graceful The plait Is caught down to the other hair by two shell pins MENS AND BOYS STYLES And now a word in regard to the menIf If the hair on a mans head is too thin to part it In the center with a comb then part it with a pencil writes M Poujol This from an eminent emi-nent authority shows that the men as well as the women have to obtain the center parting to be fashionable For summer the men will wear their hair cut close parted in the center and clipped about the temples The long temple locks which many of the swells have started are considered too extreme to be in good form The style wil have a few followers The pompadour style for men as well as women is obsolete Boys from 10 to 17 find that the bar bers cut their hair after the manner of the men the hair parted on the side is not considered more fashionable for them than for their fathers Little girls and boys wear their hair down to the shoulders the curs In front hanging from the parting down over the ears If the childs face is slender a few short curls are left over the forehead A childs hair should never be subjected to hot irons but foiled in soft cloth strips over night This does not retard the growth HARRYDELE HALLMARK |