Show I i DAUGHTERS OF EYEa The Advantages of System in a linen Cupboard t i I THE KEY TO SOCIETYS GATE Ii Red Ridlngliood Penwipers Garments For the Little FolksFabrics for Early Summer Uernhardts Costumes For THE SUKDAT HERALD Two Women know two women and one is chaste And cold as the snows on a winters day Stainless aver in word and thought As a man born dumb in speech errs not But she has malice toward her kind A cruel tongue and a jealous mind Void of pity and full of greed She judges the world by her narrow creed A brewer or quarrels a breeder of hate I Yet she holds the key to societys gate 1 The other woman with a heart of flame Wont mad for a love that marred her name And out of the grave of her murdered faith She rose like a soul that had passed through death It Her aim is noble her pity so broad It covers the earth like the mercy of God A healer of discords soother of woes Peace follows her footsteps wherever she goes The worthier life of the two no doubt And yet society locks her out I A Linen Cupboard In bygone times not yet entirely behind be-hind us women prided themselves on their neat and well stored linen cupboardswe Abroad the practice is still kept up and the linen is the gauge of the thoroughness and capabilities of the housewife Our grandmothers would be horrified at the lietcrogenious collections forming the store of some of the young housewives of the prcsent day How some of us ever find the thing required at the proper time E would be a question difficult to answer But tho unnecessary confusion can be easily remedied with just a little care The first essential is to have a conveniently I conveni-ently situated cupboard In some housesit houses-it is frequently well arranged and purposely pur-posely placed in tho vicinity of the bathroom bath-room so that it benefits by the warmth of r tho hot water pipes but even when such is not the case some other dry recepticle can be fitted up for the purpose the shelves being satisfactorily distributed and of the proper width for the reception of the larger article should be covered with strips of old linen or coarse muslin tacked I with nails on the walls and left hanging i J sufficiently to cover up the linen when arranged c ar-ranged on the shelf to keep all dust away It is a convenience to keep inside the cup board a complete list of tho articles stored on each shelf and to avoid the untidy appearance ap-pearance of pasted paper alterations etc cards hung by narrow colored ribbons may be used with advantage and can easily be rewritten when necessary Camphor is very good and wholesome but where it is disliked little muslin bags of cedar chips > placed here and there give a clean and fragrant fra-grant smell With regard to placing the various things a certain amount of discretion can be used putting for instance such articles as are less frequently used on the higher shelves or at the back if the shelves are deep enough to allow it and towels napkins etc1 etc in more accessible places where they can be found in an emergency and even if need be in the dark without upsetting up-setting the order of the whole shelf Each pile of things must be well away from its neighbor in order to insure comfort and tidiness each set of things must be sorted napkins of one pattern towels of one border etc for nothing is more demoralizing demoral-izing to the wholesome atmosphere of the linen store or to the temper of the victim than a useless and consequently not patient search amongst an illassorted pile for one particular thing that cannot bo found because it has not been put into its proper place In modest establishments especially it is i well to aspire to fewer varieties of things and inpurchasinglinen to invest in articles by tho dozen or in the largest quantities needed from the start It is cheaper in i the long run and insures similarity A set v of six towels picked up hastily at a sale a remnant of odd napkins purchased at a v t misguided impulse or another only help to I v make up a miscellaneous and uncomfortable I uncomfort-able collection Linen can be made to last an incredible time with the exercise of a little care and judgment It must be well examine neatly mended and thoroughly edufter every wash and before it is put away When the sheets begin to wear they can bo 1 turned sides to the middle Worn out table clothes can be made into napkins l V sideboard clothes etc etc Use the things f in rotation always placing the last thing washed at the bottom of the pile and giv lug out whatever come next from the top Of all the provinces over which the housewife house-wife rules the linen cupboard offers as great a scope as any for daintiness order and refinement and if well managed it may become a thing of beauty and a joy forever for-ever Red mdin hood Penwipers Very pretty Red Ridinghoocl per wipers arc made from the wishbones of fowls aided by scarlet cloaks and black petticoats Tho following lines pinned to the apron of each explain the practical use to which it is henceforth intended to be applied f t Once I was merry thought Growing in a hen Now I am a little slave Made to wipe your pen ISejrro on TOll The negro bas trained 75 per cent in property during the last decade while I head average gain has been only 5 per cent Price of Typewriters Do typewriters cost much Mr Schriv ener2 asked Mr Conveyancer Well answered Schrivener I find that a pretty one is very dears dear-s Sara Bernhardts Latest Sara Bernhardt apart from tho sensation sensa-tion created by her rendering of the character char-acter of Lena in As in a Looking f Glass has with tho handsome toilets sho i displays in this part again given Paris something t talk about She appears in the first act in a dress of sulphur yellow peou do soie The blouse waist has an arrangement in white tulle which below the waist is fastened with white satin satn bauds ending in bovv0in front the long tight sleeves scantily rtuged being edged with lace white hcbe1collarette large white tulle hat of which a falling ruffle of lace on the edge and bows of white satin ribbon and a bouquet of corn flowers form the trimming In the second act she wears a princess robe of Venetian guipure lace over green Juno pousse satin The front breadth is loosely draped and has re vers of green crepe lisse A toilette of cherryred and white brocade dovant of white silk gauze and golden embroidery with revers and bows of red velvet enhances velvet hances her charms in the third act and in the fourth though imbued with suicidal j views Lena has sti some regard for appearances and astonishes her audience in a princess wrapper on bronze pressed velvet designs on a white ground bordered with white Thibet fur The rout of whit silk gauze i drawn together at the waist wIt a handsomely chased and jeweled belt long loose sleeves tightening at the waist Garments for Little olks Thereis a growing demand for fine handiwork hand-iwork but machine stitching must always prevail in the lower priced articles 4 Featherstitching appears on everything J nd i equally popular on silks cashmeres fqJt 1 and washable fabrics Hitherto this has I i I been entirely done by band being paid for at tbo rate of 5 cents per yard There is a newly patented machine for feather stitchinp but it is quite expensive and after i is purchased a yearly royalty has Ito I-to be paid for its use Germany has form j erly furnished all the readymade feather stitching this is executed on narrow bias I bands and is much used on low priced garments I gar-ments the bands being stitched on The light weight French flannels are I much in vogue at this season of the year and such isi the popularity of this fabric that manufacturers of childrens cloaks and garments find it difficult to fill their orders ordfl Illuminated China silks pongees Shanghais surahs and the Habutai wash silks arc all used in making up the little cloaks and gowns Cashmere and plain old Janquard camels hair como next cashmere being almost exclusively ex-clusively used for infants long cloaks Vandykes are seen both on childrens cloaks and ladies underwear although many manufacturers fear these trimmings will prove to be only a passing freak of fashion Quentin embroidery which is open and has a fine looped edge is one of the latest things and embroidered medallions applied medalons appled on lace are again seen The Batt berg clock of coachmans drab with loose front wih lapel and big smoked pearl buttons is a stylish little garment I has the new Bedouin sleeves which is loosely puffed and the puffs separated by bands of Hussarblue velvet A reefer of marineblue and stockinet is just the thing for a young girl to throw over her white dress The regulation front has loose double breasted front with velvet pockets and oflicers stars on the collar A Connemara clock with a buttoned un der bodice is a capital idea for children being an English novelty The new Turkish cloak is of plaided camels hair with loose front and coat back There is a long oversleeve beneath which is a coat sleeve for use in cold weather When less warmth is desirable the sleeve is simply turned under and falls unseen beneath the plaitings of the full flo wing sleeve For wee tots nothing is more charming than the simple little coat of China silk in whit or pale colors cither figured or plain Those of illuminated pongee are among the newest shown Very jaunty is a little jacket of plaid roughfaced camels hair with corded edge For a smaller girl a yoke is formed of crossed white woolen braid which is very pretty and striking The cloak is of Jacquard Jac-quard camels hair in shaded tans with three double box plaits in the back and the front held in shirrs There are full raised sleeves and cuffs and collar of goldbrown velvet This is for a girl of about eight years old A striking garment is of heliotrope sou taine cloth with a yoke of dahlia velvet overlaid with black Vandyke passemen terie the cloth is shirred on to the yoke and there is a Bolero jacket of velvet over the blouse front Eiffle tower points of white faille arc elaborately embroidered and applied on white cashmere cloaks while others are of silk braided in soutache cord The blousewaist infants cloak is new and a relief from the ubiquitous yoke The Gretchen waist seems to enjoy a per rennial popularity as most of the small childrens garments are made in this style A delicious little example is a coat of wildrose surah with full sleeves the wide cavalier collar and cuffs being of Vandyke Irish lace Cute little coats of amazone cloth have short ve waists covered with capes formed of three pinked collars A more ornate style has a yoke outlined by a fringe ruche the same trimming the fronts and edges A little garment of white Japanese silk is trimmed with lace and relieved si I featherstitching of pale green Fabrics for Early Summer Plaids are still fashionable but in very soft shades of color In fancy woolen materials they are chiefly employed for I I traveling costumes or childrens frocks I surah they form very pretty walking toilets The shades preferred are light browns and dullish greens relieved by streak of white red or goldenbrown Fancy stripes are also fashionable both in woolen and silk materals but the noel of the season consists in the pretty chines of light fancy woolens such as mus lindelaine woolen gauze and chilienne which Is a new namo for barege The chine pattern is in mixed colors over a light colored ground cream ivory pale gold rose rose color Gowns of this style are made very simple the skirt pleated in panels I surplice fashion at the sides in full double plait at the back and almost plain in i I front but they require an underskirt of glace silk or foulard of one of the colors of the pattern The bodice is generally made of pleated and crossed fronts showing a small peaked plastron of silk in the middle The sleeves have puffed out epaulettes fastened with a bracelet of ribbon and nished with silir at the wristband Plain fabrics are on the other handmade hand-made up with jacket bodice closefitting closefttin with five seams at the back and coming down a few inches below the waist with a small peak in front and at the back Sleeves puffed up at the shoulders bck tight at the wrist Tho back of the skirt is often made of some other material arranged in straight plaits all the way down and slightly trained while the sides and front form plain panels frequently trimmed with braiding or passementrie Sometimes the trimming is merely put on around the skirt front A handsome garment of this kind is of oakbrown cashmere and faille The back of the skirt is of plaited faille the frond a fro-nd sides of cashmere with a trimming of passementarie and fringe on each side edg ing the front of the skirt The jacket bodice is of cashmere with collar and cuffs cufs of silk and a trimming of passomentrie i over the back and fronts simulating a short Spanish jacket Nothing is more refined for an elderly matrons best gown than a black armuro or gray faille trimmed with lace plaiting round the neck and sleeves and down the l front as a jabot Sometimes the basque is left plain and either a black or white lace scarf draped to form loose plastron with lace to correspond basted in tne sleeves The pans shades in vogue once more are L charming on women past their middle bloom a well as their first freshness A charming afternoon gown is of porce lain surah having an almost plain front two box plaits in each side and a gathered back with a border of black velvet all round the foot of the skirt behind a row of black lace Vandykes pointing up Down the centre of each plait run two rows of the lace with the point meeting in the centre and on the straight edges are bands of velvet two inches wide The round bodice ife without darts and gathered in the mid dle front and back of the waist line Leg ofmutton sleeves collar of velvet with Vandykes set around pointing downward I 3Je a yoke I |