Show f I x I 4 rt J r tl J ti s sr A r f- e Ir fIr Q o r O 1 d la Copyright 1918 lS b by the McClure Newspaper c r Syndicate Has Come Gome New Silhouette and i There a T. T 7 T i- i I if Women mill Adopt It as as the t h e Se Season son 1 rt I Is It-Is Made U Up 1 Prom Front JG a Long Slim Skirt Draped Upward jit at lt the Back Bach and 1111 Sif ee Sweeping A inn b bor the t Tight Basque or or 01 Bodice and a Belt at the Normal Waistline Tr It Will ill Change I a I Vast Jant Number o of 0 Settled Fashions New Veil r I Has lIas 11 Novel lovel Ornament Suggested by Tr War IVar are One approaches he the lie subject of oC a new nea silhouette these days with timidity Ono fe feels 11 tho the shadow of oC the storm torm that thatis Is about About to burst when fashion writers and designers sa say to the public that the lines Unes ot of women's clothes have changed which means menns that women's bes remain wardrobes must change If It they In tho picture of oC the hour When hen we arc ro In the throes of oC con- con LUon and economy econom the Idea of oC a anew new ne silhouette is b not altogether ether pleas pleas- Ing l g- g gIt It Is 15 snatched up with avidity by those who sell apparel for Cor the they know It Is a a. lure to the purse But It Is also snatched matched up b by orators tho reformers and thousands who ask ash women not to change the style of oC their clothes during the war nr These do tIo not snatch It up with Ith avidity a but Jump upon It and try to crush It b by argument and vit vit- The French sa say however cr that to face e a ai a. fact and not theorize on afancy a afancy fancy Is I a far Car bett better r wa way to meet life liCe Therefore If It the fhe new silhouette Is here hert I If Je women will accept It b by tho thousands It Is far tar better to taco faco It ft than han to I Ignore nore It t It Is wiser to realize I that It must musts be managed on a basis of oC economy and con conservation er atlon Argument has never nover had the slightest slight slight- ht- ht est cst effect on fashion fashion The persuasive tones of oC the administration asking that Hult our materials be bo spared b by civil civil- civilians civilian's s-s s fans ian's because It Is needed for tor he fight tight fighters tighter er ers has had Its result Its result j but th thYs Is only In keeping with the uncomplaining at- at J 1 of America toward all restriction tion s during the war The majority of oC women feel and It seems that that feeling Is right that It If the they do not encroach upon tho the fabrics and workers needed n b by tho the government o they can have ha as man many new costumes an a a the they wish on whatever er lines Jines thc they please They argue nue that the new silhouette holds one who wo w o Is engaged directly or Indirectly In warfare t There are arc those who sa say that women should not be bo asked to sew Bew when they can go Into government employ but tho the answer to that Is that thero there are arc hundreds ds of oC women who cannot go 0 Into r m and other factories and ono oso living depends upon retaining t their lr trade In sowing As Aa long IonS a as there there are arc plenty of these women Women and n l long n as the they must be supported the Country will viii s lp support orl them We e have hae already advanced far A away wa from Crom the Idea of oC disorganizing all business s in order that nonessentials shall be dis dis- continued It WAS Wl only natural that during during the first lr t year yea o of the war we should have o been extremists today we have settled down into a good long fight tIght and much of oC the ballast that wo we woI threw overboard In the b beginning In ht Ina Ina hta I a panic of oC patriotism I Is found to b bo necessary to the steadiness of or the Ship ShiP I of ot LIC Life Now what is this new nc silhouette Long v Skirt w Replace Short Ones U f II The Tho tun fundamental fact tact In the sil silhouette silhouette sil- sil Is that skirts sweep the ankles and heels To many women this is II the fundamental fact but to tho the designers and the reporters there Is far tar more moro In ht Inthe Inthe the change than this If H women were to continue to wear pleated skirts on straight lines sweepIng sweeping sweep sweep- ing the ankles and straight skirts k that reached the toe tips and were made mad to look less scanty b by rippling tunics that ex extended expended ended to the knee one would still find that the old clothes would do tIo i But tho the now new long skirt Is draped it Il is I draped upward at the back and It Is Isel slender in it ft outline el very er very ery You can p se see seg that such a skirt skirl will influence the bodice and the waistline waistline waist waist- line lInc although It will have ha no effect on OIL the sleeves cs and the neckline Ono One cannot cannot cannot can can- not wear we tunics over draped skirts One cannot wear oriental sashes at atthe atthe atthe the line hIp over draped skirts as the they did In 1880 There Is 15 so 50 much that must go o b by bythe bythe skirt that Is a graceful graceful grace grace- the b board ard with a I I ful revival of oC the old pull back which I was held 1 In hi place b by short strong I elastics placed in the tho back widths ot of I Ithe I the skirt to pull It tight across tho the front of ot the figure I The normal waistline o will nm un undoubtedly undoubted undoubted- ly come In with the draped skirt or orthe ortho ortho tho the bas barque quo with It its pointed front fastened in a straight line ne up to th the collarbone ma may be revived Tho The corselet corselet corse corse- let bodice Is 18 another garment that Is I possible as It needs a straight line be beneath be- be neath eath It to keep the silhouette In har har- mony monr It Is laid that wide dolman sleeves ps will be bo revived cd rev with these lon Ions Ions' draped skirts a as well a as flat lace collars collars collars col col- lars resting securely against tho tho thoUght tight tight- fitting fitting- neckline I All An this mind you ou Is in the future I 1 r I ia iak 1 l F i k Y f l f t f t f t r rt t I I t J t ji jt R b.- b. I 1 It 9 New turban n of white angora worn well down over the head Tho The frock is of dark-blue dark velveteen with pleated white collar and cuffs and 2nd a a. row of white pearl buttons on each hip The shoes and stockings are arc black and White i i I I I I I y I 1 if r a 1 r 7 1 I 1 r i n ti t tr I J 5 r f j. j r r 1 jJ j t r I ti i I f J 9 ll If I Ih h S y l I I rl 1 r I l I i v IA 1 1 I l I l r I I l i i I I I I 1 f I I ti 1 1 I I 1 s I t I. I 1 I I II c I. I I u I I I I I J i 1 i I l l i 1 tJ t l 1 t r 1 fl i r I I II ill ills I I s I I Ir I I R r 1 I I 1 I I If r I I I ri f r r i I I 1 I i III d fl I f t I r a r I I l I 1 4 11 4 I i 1 l I. I C 1 II I II I 6 s. s Y It t u II I i. i Kl fr ifs I. I I II J t 4 t R. R 9 i 0 J. J et 3 I i- i I I The figure on t the e right shows a pleated knife-pleated street frock of French-blue French jersey with a 3 wide sailor collar showing a flat bit of lace across the front The cap is of white silk plush made after a new model The little girl on tho the left wears a short skirt of Japanese brocade with a tunic of thin white velvet that is trimmed with sealskin as aa far tar as fashions for the mass are arl concerned But it would be bo unfair unC to th the women women om n who are buying bUin clothes to today today to- to I fla day not to warn them of oC this ap- ap ap approaching change and the belle belief by 11 all those in authority that this silhouette will Ill rule women's clothes as as the winter comes on A revolution Is achieved ed in n a night Slumbering forces with outbreaks s at various points arc are easU easily discernible to the observer before beCore the mass revolts re and the overturning o of oC a condition condition Is called a revolution So It Is Js with fashions Thousands Thousand of oC women omen will call the Introduction of or orthIs this slim draped skirt shirt that goes Joes upward upward up up- ward at the bacle back and is pulled tI tightly lightly across the knees a revolution re but American designers brou brought ht It Into fashion a year ear ago and it was was was' not ac ac- ac In Jul July several well dressed women took It up and Insisted upon it it as tR their mode de of oC costume and in Angust Angust An- An gust women had many followers Still the shops did not show gowns which had these skirts The tailors did dirl not offer otter them for Cor the they did dirl not I know how to mako make them and they and they the probably will always leave lea that h l d dor of or workmanship to the the So the public paid little attention to the fact that these skirts gradually gradually grad grad- approaching into the heart henrt o of fashions They aVe ale the tho most momentous moment moment- ous change chano In existing styles Whether or not tho they win out with the thc mass of women nomen Is la a question that cannot be settled nettled this day and this hour Ono One thing tl however Is quite certain In tho minds of tho those e who have ha authority authority au au- All skirts will be bo lengthened as the season a advances under the theIn in influence fluence of or this tills new skirt Women omen arc are already ripping ripping- out hems or adding new ne hems herns of another material to skirts tho they nr are renovating reno This is a wise thing for a woman woman to remember it if she Is 11 In In the tho throes of altering frocks that will Ill maintain her wardrobe in good style stylo until the actual cold weather demands warmer mate mate- rials Dont Don't let her be be- misled b by the thc fact tact that the majority of or women's clothes worn and told Bold torl today y have short hort skirts All An tho tto betting belting on the therace therace therace race track of ot fashion t Is n against their v winning Inning It I Is far tar wiser to renovate te teR a R skirt for th the future than for the present pres- pres ent nt If it one considers pJ the own worth 1 the price of money and vitality that never cr renovation reno requires I Speaking of or Skirt Skirls i 11 hot About T r s II The Ill first question that a woman Oman auks asks when she nhe I is told that the lon long pullback pullback pull pull- back skirt skirl and anil the tight hl basque barque art are arriving concerns the best lint hat that will vilI go o with such ch a n. silhouette The answer to her question depends I i iI i I IJ J I r I I y i ti ANZAC HAT OF PALE-GRAY PALE FELT Tile crown is trimmed with whir a n miniature miniature min min- cartridge belt belt ma made e of pray gray fa faille ill 0 ribbon The ornament is H x tiny while white and aurl blue jeweled flag The frock Crock is of oC pac pac-gra pale tray satin and silk voile oile an and is trimmed with tin tiny gray silk butt There is a shin string sash tied in the back on the nature of oC the place w she shops shop It I Is probable that th the Infer Infer- will bo he given i en her that the milliners milliners mil mil- liners have havo amassed a a vast variety of or head coverings co and that she he can t ke take her choice but If she definitely InSI insist upon what Is new she will be told 1 by those who know that the striking novelty no Is the tho revival nI of oC a mans man's hat that has haR won a picturesque place for COI lI itself through several sC centuries of oC u usage n e. e i Once It was called the thc Musketeer cr because of or Us its upturned brim and Iud its long feather r to today a it I is called J the An An- zac Between the tho two two classes of fighters fight right ers Is no difference except the progress re s of oC time They CI nt with much the s same mc principle to guide them and anil both Ci fight hl for the thc honor and safety of France PO Possibly the toe Anzac never thou thought ht of or orthe the t 1 when h n he smashed cd his felt eH hat on the Ride side of oC hi his head hend and cI caught ht up the print brim at nt the tho side I 1 Ho r to did not stick a feather In hi his h hat fiat t. t The Musketeer s ll belonged to a n picturesque era cra and he believed ell that hi his sword his lace laco ruffles and the feather in hl his cap were part of hl ills his insi insignia All a tho world worM loves love a good fI fighter and there has never ne been heen an era In which h he has not nol create the dominant dominant domi domi- nant fashions usually fashions usually after his di cli appearance from rein scene of or action Today Tolay To To- lay day the Anzac hat comes into high fashion ash lon and at the hour tour of or the theus Australian us Aus fI fighters fighters' distinction I It Is mule made of white gray rn black and ami mauve mall felt Sometimes g It has an nn InI In- In I fh of no importance as a t. t nether method of or fastening a up the brim to the crown and a again aln It ha has ha a thick curling o os ostrich 4 feather the It is the latter trimming trimming trim trim- ming that is added to lo the felt Celt hat hal when the costume I Is 1 a slim draped frock ocl that reaches from frons collarbone to tips Ups of or toes IOP There Is a recrudescence of or ostrich feathers over the land Imd an and as H all th the milliners arc are Insisting that hats shall be trimmed there thele every cry reason to believe o that the African n plume will be restored to fashion Attic Hie May Un Offer to lag Brass Room So So throughout the warp and woof of the new fashions thero there runs n a thread of economy econom for 01 the reason that much Is revived rc which has hns been shelved and may have hl been kept The contents of or the attic ma may furr fur fur- furnish r nl nish h ery for the drawing room You Tou Y u can count off ore on uti your fingers ers 8 some some me of or the revivals re that will put a woman In In 1 a prosperous place 33 03 far as 38 her hercl cl clothes ore me concerned If It she h hart had th the cann canny insight to store these things awn away In moth balled trunk trunks There herc is the sealskin sack and cuffs collars collar and skirt hems boms of or sealskin there i is ht the r l large brimmed e felt hat with the tho soft crown there are arc ostrich feathers feather In ht cr c every shade thickly curled as 8 In olden days there arc are gauntlet cl of oC suede or fa fabric and f I II I The Anzac Hat Ilan Which Is in I Fashion Is a l i Rc Repetition m the Musketeer 1 Hat Ilat at o of A Another Century and Trimmed 11 With An tilt Ostrich Plume It Is Worn norn J o rn F Women If With it Their cir I Long Sweeping Costs Costumes tines II White If Bite Turbans o of Ermine e and Cadet Turbans 4 oJ vet Are Ore Smart for or the Street I heavily hen embroidered on the thc OUt outside there arc are embr embroidered l and brocaded waistcoats such rt ns us l Washington wore I when he ire was painted b by Gilbert Stewart Stewart Stewart Stew Stew- art r are sweater waistcoats with pockets In front there thore are rc golf golC capes lined and trimmed with Scotch plaid there are arc short velvet cht Jackets that ripple ripple ripple rip rip- at tho tiro hips there are checked rapes there are aro velvet bodices sleeveless sleeveless sleeve sleeve- less Itis and collarless so that soft sort while chiffon or muslin blouses can come out through the apertures and mako a brave showing Quite a little s dont don't you U think of oC the dead brought back to life Among mon the revivals of or semi precious things there 13 fa lace of all 1 kinds espo- espo in b Spanish thread thra l and anal other soft laces that t ca can bo ho used for whole gowns flowing sleeves and drapery capes ape Thero There Is also a rev revival revisal of oC ermine a and I it t is s used for tor ha hats t a ns as i well as queerly h shaped collars and gauntlet cuffs on gowns that merely suggest a a. relaxation t Ion from hot lot weather but not the coming of oC frost rost There n Ne New tw v l' l Kind Iid of or Tam TamIn In r The Tho woman who I Is looking for lor smart hats hat l to trick out |