Show I Perfect F tt ng cal ca for f r the of If o This Ever a s d e rHE FIE or c is is so soA sots ts A firmly fixed as a component part of the that thal the best and most practical method of arranging it be becomes becomes comes a question of importance It is is s usually made of or light sheer fabric and if cut by a shirtwaist pattern and al allowed al lowed loved to remain remain the lie full length the ma material material material at the Ille waist will form an extra thickness under the that may m X just as well wen be avoided A shirtwaist sh il waist of even the simplest description will al always always ways was be more becoming if it has one I wide or several very narrow tucks at atthe atthe atthe the There may be only onh little be beginning be beginning beginning three or four of these tucks ginning at the armhole or r an equivalent amount of material may be gathered into the shoulder scam but the trine trifle ol oi lul ful ness will win allow just enough h case ease across the bust to avoid the strained look a a perfectly plain waist unless very ery iY loose 1 fitted is is certain to have hae The 1 on on the time contrary will w l be better it ii if made perfectly p plain for the thc portion that I shows at the should lie he j I smooth and flat be the figure either full fun fullor fullor or or slender the requisite to S ease case to the waist w will be in in the over over louse blouse The timpe is most often shown to depth only ani but bui everyone everone who JIO has tried knows the inconvenience of keeping the small in m in position position position tion inside a neck opening to which it is not sewed It will be be much more secure and ud comfortable if it be attached to a of lawn that thal may be bc held down from the waist The method by b which this result may be attained and at the th fame same time the thc of material at the waist aist avoided is shown in ill the illustrations illustrations lions Fit IMI the thc underarm und scams and the shoulders and neck careful carefully French scams seams may be made but a felled seam scam s am gives gives ics a flatter finish at nt the shoulder sh r 11 lIem cm the lower edge and if tile the is w l f he be sleeveless make a very cr narrow Item hem around the armholes or apply a J narrow bias facing lent Hem l lie tle lower r edge of the and seW sew loops ol of of tape ape to the edge e c crry Tr rry on Oil the and arid make each tape tap loop long enough to reach exactly to the natural tur l waistline Apply one loop at at h side of the tlc and one one at each Cach side of and a d quite clo i the n back It is is impossible to place pac a loop l ori r T at it the exact centre on account of the closing but they should be placed as near scar the lie centre centie as possible without in interference interference with wilh the lapping so that the theto two Iwo loops may pull ns liS one Place Pace a loop at each cadi scam Sl 1111 and two t vo more at each side of the one between the front and the under underarm arni and the other outer between bet the lie underarm and the back making five fire loops on each side Sew them securely to the hemmed edge of the tl C and amid when then it il is is to be worn it t l i t a t 1 I TIlE THE LATEST I rim a length of tape through all the loops and tic it around the waist The is usually cut long enough to 10 extend a few inches below the time bust and continue o on a aa corresponding line lineon lineon on Olt the figure across the sides and back but lut CI n if it be cut shorter the loops will hold it down The greater length th if iF of course preferable when sleeves arc included ed though thon h in in any case it will twill be bemore bemore bemore more satisfactory to have hac the ex cx extend extend tend at least two inches below the un UIl un underarm When the thc has the lime large c that have ha been so much l u used this ibis season the must have sufficient length Ica to extend a safe distance dis distance tance below them hens and it may be advisable advis adis advisable able to lo add an extra loop of tape at each cach side The illustrated was made of lin and amid was intended as a support for the time lace which thich is is inset m in form none of the thc lawn lawi show showing showing ing ng when the thc is is worn The itself however hOw r mav lII stay l be lc inset wilh with medallions or insertion or r be hand embroidered Fine Finc lawn or batiste should be he used in in this case but the original inal preparation of the would be bethe bethe belie the lie saute same The trimmings to be applied should l lie he c pinned into the desired positions positions then lien basted in place After the trimming is is pinned m in place on the thc one side double the evenly through the banging the back and an anthe the underarm scams evenly together J I and pin the trimming rimming t m in the same positions positions positions to the other side At the second illustration is is shown the method d of insetting a solid piece of lace avoiding a scam at the shoulder Allover lace may nia ilia be used though in in this case ease it was an alt odd o d piece of o f deep lace flouncing the edges being joined at atthe atthe atthe the shoulders cr by lapping the back jack por portion portion portion tion over the front and nE the thc lace hec design on the latter to the net top of the lace used for the tIle front portion It Itis is is an easy cas matter after the is fitted and the shoulder seams completed c to lo fit the lace into inlo place as no shoulder scams cUns are arc made nude in in it lie lapping and an joining of oC the lace may be done doue wherever it will come most conveniently Baste Basic the thc front piece m in position first then ihen each of the back portions Be Bc careful ul to pre preserve preserve serve the curve of the notching the lace if necessary ar to se sc secure secure cure it Hem the lie edges of time the lace laC to the he Make the shoulder with over overhand overhand hand stitches taken over the thread that forms the outline of oi the lace design fol following following following lowing it far enough around each cach ligure to make the lie joining secure Join the spaces of 0 C net act that conic come in in between these figures bv by taking short overhand o stitches through both layers of After Ater all these stitches nrc me nr made trim the lie net awa away around the lace figures and m along the lines limits but not too lOO close to the sewing m in either cither case If any of the plain in in the lace seem too prominent they thc may be broken by tal tak taking ing mg a small figure fiure from the cuttings of the lace and applying appling it to the net by over ocr handing hand nf around the design Run Rent a thread around the lace one quarter of an aninch aninch aninch inch from the neck edge to hold it to tolie the lie same size sic size as the fitted lawn From the inside trim away awa the lawn from under tinder the lace leaving about one quarter of an inch beyond the line of sewing that attaches it to the lawn turn turnover turnover over the t le raw edges and hem them therm down downto to the lawn The fitting of the collar is a ratter of considerable importance and more at than usual is being given to it this season 1 The he shaping of the top out outline outline outline line must necessarily vary on different persons but the inclination is is to slope it it up as high at the back and sides as it cm cwt be worn The rhe neck of the e should always be bc as high as possible at atthe atthe Jt the sides II Il in in the fitting it is is too high causing the shoulder to wrinkle it is better to lo slash the edges than to pare pm them away A 11 collar that pulls wide tide wl e at atthe atthe atthe the sides of the neck is uncomfortable and unbecoming This is particularly true truc when the neck is short Increasing the neckline n ne at the lower edge ed e of the collar increases the apparent size sie of the neck anti and is is the thc reverse of the time treatment required in ut in fitting a stout neck Ck The rhe front ma may need to be cut some somewhat somewhat somewhat what low but the sides should be kept as high as possible The best way to tomake tomake make ke a correct neckline ID is t b by pinning around a collar that is is either cither cut from front stiff material or boned to pre preserve serve the shape Everyone knows the difficulties of finding a satisfactory and painless Boning Bonini tint that will hold the thc collar up usually pokes into the neck in in most uncomfortable unco fort ble fashion J L li even when it does docs not actually scratch A prepared collar coll r foundation foun that I 1 have seen and which has recently been placed on sale sal in in the slops shops seems to have solved the problem by b boning with a single length of collarbone that is is carried up lip and down clown and along the shaped collar that is is made of dc do soie There are arc no n l ends of the collarbone cx ex except at It each side of the thc hack back and here the ends are arc turned under of an inch so no sharp points can cm pro project project The collarbone is is h by rma ma machine cline chine to the thc collar When 11 hen henone one of these prepared pr foundations is i is used it il is is fitted to the neck of oi the th then covered with lace matching that of the tIle Y r rr r 1 r |