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Show GpL" DESIGNER CREATOR OP FA5MI0N 1M r - A nis. Thin season's clothes can he made a strange rare and redeeming redeem-ing tmlt of individuality, indi-viduality, for I meet women everywhere ev-erywhere who are dressed in the most incongruous fashions, "She Is a mixture mix-ture of a Dutch boy, a Turkish dancer, o IMreetoire gentleman and a tnld-Victorian lady, nothing to be proud of in the way of art or dre9.s or taste" This is what 8 great artist remarked to me the other afternoon of the pretty daughter of a well known millionaire as she took her place with a party of friends at one of the small tallies in the Tre Catalan. I cannot mention her name, but she is one of those ubiquitous ubiqui-tous girls who ought to be making a fortune In vaudeville as quick change artistes. But on this particular afternoon after-noon she wore a much ruflled dainty toilette that 6ulted her far better than some of the extreme styles I had seen her in previously. i Lougchamps has set its seal of approval ap-proval or of doom upon the few vagaries vaga-ries about whl'-h there have been some question raised. The hoopskirt and the elongated bodice are two styles that have crept in In rather dark horse fashion. fash-ion. In the early spring Lavln warily launched his mode with half a hoop, but now this bouse shows the crinoline in its boldest form, and the long basque bodice this was born, of course, of the low hip celnture. Fru-giiltty Fru-giiltty in the waist and prodigality in the skirt is the keynote to the autumu fashion. Bodices are drawn down I snugly without the slightest suggestion of the blouse, or else they arc cut with three or five seams aud the material shirred on to a thin foundation and buttoned with a straight row of buttons but-tons down the front in the old fashiou-od fashiou-od polonaise style. Although somo of the new basques seem to convey the effect of a girdle they are really cut all In one piece and the material is wrapped tightly around the figure or they fit the form so closely that the material wrinkles when the wearer moves. A smart bodl e in blue serge which 1s worn with a flaring tunic skirt is seml-fittlng anil has the distinction of being buttoned down one side. It is very long waistod and is slit up about three inches on each hip. At the waist line the material is very sparsely draped. drap-ed. The sleeves are raglan an,d are well set in. which conveys a narrow shouldered effort. This tight cut across the shoulders and bust gh es the figure an extremely flat appearance. Tight fitting cuffs of white batiste which button but-ton over the wrists with tiny pearl buttons but-tons and the square sailor collar give the smart finish to the costume. A scant bodice without an fullness whatever and minus a girdle is the complement to a chic dinner froek. The skirt is composed entirely of laco frills and is extremely full. From this it is obvious that evening corsages have taken their cue from the flat basque worn with day costumes. The body part of a frock of tulle trimmed with sprays of roses festooned festoon-ed over a satin jupon is merely a deep, sleeveless basque; not a vestlgo of lace or frills trims the decollete The satin is swathed around the figure fig-ure aud fastened Invisibly. The shoulders, arms and greater part of i the bust are entirely bar the only ornament alfve this deep girdh for it can scarcely be called a waist Is a ope of pearls which hangs almost to e hem of the dress. n certain figures fig-ures these new basques are really good looking enough to warrant thell being, but there are other types that should be wary of them, at least In un tdul-terated tdul-terated form. In the sketch marked Fig. l is shown a modification of the polonaise bodice that is full of suggestion sug-gestion to the 'lever woman who bus learned the wisdom of adapting prevailing pre-vailing modes to .her own individuality, individual-ity, The gOWU is in olive green taffeta, taf-feta, the bodice fastened In the front with two ghandsome motifs In green and silver passementerie. The deep white organdie tufts drawn Into hands are very new not only in shape, but both collar and cuffs show a tiny herder her-der of black, which is one of the --mart finishes to batiste and organdie neckwear. neck-wear. The hat. a white and bl.e k fancy straw, is lined with black satin and trimmed with two smart black heron aigrets. Several houses are showing the full shirred skirt minus the narrow underskirt. under-skirt. The roost charming models are in taffeta. More than ever does this silk seem enthroned in popularity, hut white tafft ta Ui the fabric poi grotf- !rnr, although 1 have still se. u a - many striped taffetas, flowered and shot, mingled more or less with lace and tulle. Among the customary black and white dresses these t"llets Which We do not seem able to dispense with and Which leiiew their line each season sea-son with even more furore Is a new -lolled frock which cannot fail t i charm The extremely tight basque which Is in white taffeta show-' an extreme ex-treme contrast to the full skirt It is wrapped round and round the figure and extends well down below the hips. giving the long walsted effect, which is the distinctive feature of the i,, v modes. The back is smartlj adorned with an immense black tulle how. Above the basque, shaped like a deep eeinture. is a double layer of tilmy black tulle, which drapes the shoulders aud forms the tight sleeves, which come weii down over the knuckles. The shirred taffeta skirt emerges from bc- itb the bask and f ills in fun pleats to Hi,, ankles, showing the white silk stockings and black satin shoe-. The hat and parasol to be worn with this frock completes the chic ensemble. The Chapt ttU is a law shape of black tulle trimmed with wisps of paradise back ami front Narrow strings cross near the ear under a small whlU rose. The sunshade s 0110 of tM'" laf M models in black velvet, lined w ith w hite silk aud edged Inside with tm white roses. The very full slurred skills are de-cldedlj de-cldedlj the newest things in the realm of the Jupe. 'I'1"" material bancs full from the waist, or it may be gathered onto a snug hip yoke, but at the hem the skirt must be full and have a decided de-cided flare. A pretty afternoon gown, which depicts the tunic in one of its smartest and newest phases, is illustrated illus-trated in Fig. 2. The underskirt in this model is in white moussellne with a hem of black satin. An extremely good idea is carried out in the upper skirt, which is fashioned from black lattice tulle and is distinctive with its wide band of black and white pekin6 satin. Louis VI. bows In white satin edged with black trim the side of the skirt. The upper part of the waist is in the black satin and the lower part in lattice, lat-tice, tulle over white moussellne. Unlike Un-like most afternoon gowns that are finished with Medici collar or frills this Utile waist has a simple roll over collar In while satin edged with a black braid. The charm of novelty is in the black satin capote, which is wired to stand out and show an underlining under-lining of white satin. Gold and black cord starting from the center of the hat are arranged at regular intervals over the shape, and the tassels are left to fall carelessly over the brim. One of the most delightful ways of using craquelle net that Is heavily euj-lm-sed with metal and velvet floweral is shown In the evening gown marked Fig. 3. This gown slauds out by its very simplicity amid the complleated lace and net robes which are so prevalent prev-alent this season. The not Is emhossed with silver, hydrangea blue and soft pink aud Is draped over a sheath gown of flesh colored taffeta. The flower girdle is composed of roses and hydrangeas. hy-drangeas. It Is draped carelessly over the hips and is left to haug in a long trail at the back. The waist is in net over flesh colored moussellne de sole. Dresses of black charmeuse, over which are puffed out little flounces of white tulle or lace, are legion. All tulle frocks are current models of the season. sea-son. A delightful creation worn by Mile. Fxlane. the charming young actress, ac-tress, who is now playing in that clever play, "Co qu'il faut taire," has thro tunics of geranium colored mallne. the edges sea Hoped and drooping over each other like the petals of a flower. Each Bcallop is outlined with liny brilliants which glisten like dewdrops. The vagaries in the realm of the wraps and coats are positively limitless. limit-less. If there is one thing more than another in which we have developed originality It is in the shape of our current cur-rent outdoor garments. They will be very freakish Wo shall use all kinds of materials and all kinds of trimmings. trim-mings. We are taking our Inspirations from the Orient, Italy and the Norse; some of the f abactions on wraps are truly barbaric. The only thing that characterizes all outdoor garments would seem to be the absence of a high Collar, with the exception of the big circular cape. Of this long, voluminous vol-uminous affair that came iuto fashion at the beginning of the spring sensou there is much to be said If one acts upon the multifold suggestions given by the designers as to its varied advantages. ad-vantages. This model iu simple form has been put to its best use for the open car and demands to be made on prat tical lines. Hut in modified form these full wraps have quite replaced coats for evening wear. A stunning ape worn at the Bouffes-Farislans, where Mile. Tolalre, who proudly lays Halm to being the ugliest actress in Paris and who is scoring a groat success suc-cess in "La Sauvageonne," was in cranberry colored silk, with a dashing striped lining in ranberry and dark blue. The stripes were very broad and the importance of the combination of color was obvious, for the lower edge of the wrap, which fell to a deep point ba k and front, was turned up about three inches to show the lining and to form a band of trimming. There in a hood of the solid material j lined with the stripe and finished with a blue silk tassel. The combination of colors alone would have lifted this wrap above the commonplace, but In addition, and which added groatlv to the chic, the hood was arranged in plastron form in front, and the ends ! were drawn through slits In the back i of the cape and tied In a butterfly bow. The smaller wraps for the autumn are very eccentric In design. We an call them capes, mantelettes or coatees in fact, anything we like but they must fit closely to the shoulders aud then flare wldelv beneath the hips. Some are shawl shape, and others have sling sleeves as well as cape like sleeves. We shall borrow a little here and a little there. Ideas have been culled from the 1830 styles, the Louis I XV. aud XVI. periods. A conglomera- 7 tlon of modes which aims at being original will be seen. I A long Russian coat belted in below the waist is being shown by one of the 9mart French tailors, and then, as i if in direct contrast, comes a trig little j coat to wear with a tailored skirt that is quite the reverse of all summer ml- I ings. it is snug fitting with a seamed back, long, tight, Bet-In sleeves, and '(MM a front with many buttons. There are no revers to this small coat, merelj a little turned don a round collar of tie- same loth and at the center back a I stiff upstanding riiil of French organdy, organ-dy, a flaring coat on the Russian order or-der is shown with raglan sleeves At the back, pleats starting at the shoulders shoul-ders are buttoned to the belt Tbi !l again we see a Ittle hybrid jaeket-a p. made of soft black velvet, lined With white charmeuse, edged with a whll boli silk trimming anil a turned down lace collar. Another delightful short coat Is in black velvet and is so cut that it hangs away from the shoulders like a cape and is tiared to -how the j white -ilk lining. The full length j sleeves are extreme! tight n the forearm fore-arm and are slit from the wrist four inches upward and buttoned with small jet buttons a Ui .snplur This has a standaway collar in white taffeta to match the douhlvre, A fandfUl white ClOth jakit wan over a black satin skirt is shown in ;--'. i This model boast- the distinction distinc-tion of a full pleated skirt trimmed with a handsome embroidery in a conventional con-ventional design worked out iu heavy white silks with black very sparingly introduced. The roll over collar is of black satin edged with a gnlon to match the embroidery, and a smurt finish fin-ish fo the , eat are the black and white silk tassels. H V modified burnous wrap is seen. This Is Mi'-h a practical Wrap for even ing wear, as they are so soft and TO- H luminous n would be impossible for I hem to injure tic- most delicate evei Wig frock. An adorable affair Is fash loned from a peach M0W satin w it Ij '. painted orchid bolder veiled with H pea en colored chiffon. Cordlngs of sat In trace a scroll dcslgu on the siiqul dei a and finish tie- siit oponinge whl h serve as sleeves. It is lined with bil lowychlffom A. more delightfully airy and mysterious confection it would m difficult to Imagine, for the coloring ' . barmlngly subdued. Lace coats m i still worn. While not new In any sens-of sens-of the word, their 1 barm is so potenl tint the newer fabrics have not hcei able to oust them entirely from favor Those used ill connection With dillllCI costumes are so long that they form J tunic bp the charmeuse skirt 0V6I which they at" worn The smart Idea is to build the embroidered net am lace coats over black mousseline d The design is thus brought oui with great vli Idness. The dlstlnctloi between the I o .111(1 the . I pc ha bed quite lost sight of. Beside the -ape- of tulle or net worn with tea frocki and i rening gov as there ere some de MH Ughtful page mantles of pa-del tJnte chiffon which hove quite caught tin ti Lie fancy of the Parisienw H f To look charming, to dress perfectly, to feel in style, those are the real tnings m me I that count to all women. IH |