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Show : NEW YORK SmES. : t Every j-earj with methodical regularity, regular-ity, modistes (who cannot, of course, pretend to be disinterested on the subject) sub-ject) announce most emphatically that fancy silk waists of all sorts have gone out of vogue. Then with the same regularity reg-ularity the silk Waists appear. Nothing Noth-ing daunted by foreboding prophesies they merrily 'find their way into my lady's wardrobe and,, flutter and crinkle in a Way that is as nearly akin ?fb a smile as M-earing apparel can -well, assume. as-sume. ; The first crop usually blossoms out with the opening of the theatres, , when, the summer is over. The socond comea-r-weH along- in the fall This is about J.he season, and the second -crop is by all "means the more betritcilhig. for. they have the protection of outer wraps iWheu'.worn on the street, and for the house who. would be-oidi'ogy enough to subdue their -'gaiety 7 It is well to know" that the black silk skirt, the well known partner in convenience of the, separate waist. Is' among us again with the assent and approval of the leaders of fashion. The silk" skirts are made simply .of black peau de soie and are often unlined and untrimmed, the elaboration of detail being reserved for the bodices. Just at present waists for semi -dress affairs, matinees, luncheons, lunch-eons, etc:, are quite "smooth across the bust, allowing the gorgeous trimming to show to full advantage; . At card parties where luncheon is served on the card' fables to groups of four ample, opportunity is afforded .to observe dainty- waists, pretty coiffures andfthose delightful fripperies that are the joy of every feminine heart.. A great many little boleros, fancifully appliqued, ap-pliqued, are worn over' light waists, and any number of detachable lace yokes are brought into requisition. One fetch-i fetch-i ing. costume shown in a group on'this page"' is a delicate pastel" blue taffeta made with a skirt and bolero, and worn over a'misty peaehblow bodice of 'dull fin ished taffeta and mousseline de soie. The bolero, with its long sleeves, is open "in front and short all the way around. It is appliqued all over with velvet a shade deeper than the silk, to which it is stitched down under a round silver I gray satin ' ?ord. The bottom of . the skirt is similarly appliqued, the trimming trim-ming mounting higher behind than in front. With it was worn a turban bon- j net of-mirrored velvet in the- same shade of pastel blue. The bonnet set well back on the head, and was decked directly in front with a cabbage bow of black satin that emphasized -. the whiteness of two doves' wings, spreading-at either side of it. The wearer, coquetishly lifting her dress, displayed a pair of trim little shoes, with Louise Quinze heels, and just the edge, of a petticoat that, was a veritable confection. confec-tion. - It was made of white satin tripod with even bars of peaehblow taffeta, veiled'at the bottom with 'two flounces of white 'Chantilly lace, headed with tiny ruchfn'gs of white:"' mousseline de j soie. ' ' - 1 he. owner of this. delightful lingerie confided to me that all of-her new skirts, both in silk aW linen, were made in princess form. THey end, or rather begin, at the bust line, where they are finished off with a wide beading, run through, with light colored satin ribbon. rib-bon. The fastening is done with hooks or small flat pearl buttons, either straight down the back or under both I arms. A silk lacing cord may be'used I in place of hooks or buttons. "The new j princess underskirts naturally serve as skirt and corset cover in one, and lend a most desirable noothness to the tight gowns which are worn over them. One of the prettiest extra waists I have seen this year was planned for a debutante by some one who evidently understood the merit of combined novelty nov-elty and simplicity. First, the-foundation of hard finished silver gray taffeta was made smooth fitting, excepting that it was puckered into the belt instead in-stead of being adjusted with darts. Th fastening was invisible down the center of the back ,the shoulders were wide. and the whole body of the waist was in three pieces. The sleeves were long and smooth fitting. Cut exactly by the same pattern was a covering of white mousseline mous-seline de soie that had before cutting been tucked closely in tucks a quarter of an inch wide. The novelty consisted consist-ed in the scaly effect that was obtained by tacking the tucks up to the stitch-I stitch-I ing that formed them at regular intervals inter-vals a quarter of an inch apart. The catching up, of course, had to be, done by hand. The needle passed under the tuck just at the row of stitching, then passed over the tuck. The silk thread was then drawn tight, catching the tuck up in loops. The result was somewhat some-what similar to smocking, but far more original. A white satin stock and a narrow belt of rattlesnake skin completed com-pleted the bodice. Open work is a strong feature of high-necked bodices. Sometimes the front of a waist, loosely made but without fullness, is in as many as five thicknesses, all cut in spaces to show some part of each successive layer. Motifs of lace are interspersed, and in addition to this the Outer sheath is handsomely embroidered. Filmy drapery dra-pery encircling the shoulders' is very popular, and so is silver and gilt tbread embroidery. The latter is exorbitantly high-priced when bought ready made, but can be easily wrought at home. A charming little model in changeable-white changeable-white and apple green taffeta is embroidered em-broidered with purple clover, silver grasses and clover leaves in their natural nat-ural tint. With it is worn a rosy pur-pleish pur-pleish collar and girdle of solft velvet, and it is supplied with a detachable sleeveless bolero, made in cloth of silver. sil-ver. Dripping down, as it were, from the girdle at one side is a jabot of green and mauve chiffon. Quaint old fashions for- afternoon, and evening wear are being reyived with wonderful success, and not the least among them is the modest fichu of soft mulle knotted at the bust and left hanging in two long graceful ends that may fall to or below the knees. A lit accompaniment to the fichu is the sweet frilled bebe hat, that lends such an innocent childlike air to a pretty face of whatever type. An old-time fad which has been in disuse so long that it reappears now almost in the guise of a newr idea is that of hand-painting evening gowns. The work, it goes without saying, must be Ione- byan efficient artist. A costume-that has lately been made by i Felix for Miss Florence Fox of Phila-j delphia is a fair example;'of 'what can be done in this line.. The gown has a long, tight princess '-tunic,-: made' of renaissance and chantilly lace in cream and white, and incrusted into the lace are exquisite hand-painted roses, executed ex-ecuted on white silk" and held in place apparently by means of white satin ribbon. At the back the tunic is split open to let out a fan-plaited'demi-train of mousseline de soie, and a triple plaited . flounce of mousseline de soie finishes the bottom of the dropskirt. The bodice is tight and sleeveless and cut roundly decollete over the shoulders. shoul-ders. The painting was done by a well known Chicago girl, Teana McLennan Hinman, the flower painter. Miss Hin-man Hin-man has for the last year been. in. Paris, where she will remain until the latter part of December. Hand-pained flowers, cut out, and appliqued to tulle form striking decorations decora-tions for evening gowns. The lightness of the tulle g! es a very natural solidity solid-ity to the flowers'. White tulle, for. instance, in-stance, is placed over delicate hauve. faille. The underskirt is' tight, but the tulle is gathered. Trailing down, the , front of the skirt are large, painted hortensias, with long, slender green leaves. They are appliqued to the tulle with long and short stitches of silk thread, matching the tints of the painting. paint-ing. The cuirass-shaped corsage is low-necked, two round scallops turning turn-ing ui over the bust leave a heart-shaped heart-shaped point between them. A narrow ruching of green, tulle borders the decollete. de-collete. The shoulder straps are made of single strands of large pearls, and aj dog collar of pearls is worn around the I neck. On the bodice the same design of hortensias is carried out. The wide girdle is made of gold-colored mirrored panne, and the long sleeves, smoothly stretched, on .to the, form, are of pearl-colored pearl-colored suede. The gloves are fastened at. tlje wrist with four tiny black buttons. but-tons. - Flowers embroidered in tinted silks ! make a very accepted substitute for hand painting, and are safer for the amateur to venture upon. A beautifully embroidered dinner gown in ro.-3 colored col-ored faille has a tight skirt made with denii train. The skirt is embroidered down both sidea of the front with large-sized large-sized pink and white roses, mingled With dull green foliage. The corsr.ge is a Louis XVI coat, with rounded tails and an open front, strapped together with folds of-rose satin velvet, caught down at either sido with Dresden buttons. but-tons. Showing beneath these straps is a fulled" front of rc.e mousteiine de soie. The badice is low-5iecked and finished fin-ished with a drawn-down fichu of ros mousseline de soie, over a bertha of plaited white liberty silk. Pink and white roses are embroidered down the fronts of the coat, and all the. way around the habit back. The sleeves reach only to the elbow, where they are finished with a double-plaited pink and white frill. Long hite glove.5 are worn, tucked up into the sleeves. Velvet is in prime favor for visiting gown,?, and is uniquely combined with all manner of pretty fabrics, panne is I affected, even more than velvet by I those who can afford so 9 Jxurioi:s a I fashion. It is ellck and rippling a.s i.e ' surface of a brook in the moonlight, and being much thinner and more flexible flex-ible than velvet, gives itself admirabiy to the tightly drawn folds that arc at present so fashionable. Here Is an elegant ele-gant toilet in black panne and white satin. All the top of the skirt is in solid panne, and the lower part is cut out in irregular points and pieced down to the requisite length with a pantilv circular flounce of white satin. The satin ground is almost entirely covered with a heavy embroidered design of black chenille, mingled with jet beads and spangles. At the bottom of this flounce is a plaited ruffle of black chiffon, chif-fon, through which the white satin of the drop skirt .glimmers perceptibly. The -open bolero is of black panne trimmed with heart-shaped reveres of white satin and a triple marine collar of white satin, the top one of the three being covered flaf.y with heavy white lace. Under the. boiero my be seen a smooth plastron and collar of colored taffeta. Looped loosely over the neck, and knotted at the Uust, with the ends left hanging, ia a gearf of white liberty silk encrusted with lace. - ' Gowns for therert are elaborate .when compared with those of last year, which were characterized by extreme simplicity. Even the least pretentious are. ornamented or s-titched in some bizarre .fashion. V noticeably up-to-date afternoon gown has the whole upper up-per part of the tunic stitched in cordlike cord-like perpendicular tucks. The tucks are made in s.uch a manner that they, stand out. They are much prettier and newer than, the pressed tucks. The whole gown, skirt and waist, are in supple beige cloth, on -the order of cashmere, but with !i more lustrous finish. fin-ish. The trirnmfng is' of mirrored panne, in a shade ol" serpent green, so dark that against the light it looks almost al-most black. The tunic is cut out at the bottom in large scallops, and the scalloped- edge is spread out and stitched down to a wide bias fold of the panne. Beneath the tunic is a taffeta drop skirt that is finished with a circular ruffle cut out in scallops, that are stitched to a wide bias fold of panne, repeating the trimming on the tunic. A fine embroidery em-broidery of white silk is worked inside of the scallops. The waist is in bolero form, with a tight back in one piece. The front is rather remarkable. The open edges are in scallops laid over fold of panne to match the trimming on the skirt. At the darts the fronts are puckered up, disclosing an under-vest under-vest of panne. At the top the front is filled in with a vest and stock of w hite satin. |