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Show These two handsome autumn gtrwns are made of light-weight cloth, eloseiy resembling cashmere, which will be more popular than ever. They are .plainly but Deatly finished in the new mode of fall. GREEN TO BE THE SEASON'S COLOR. If Sotv Appears Upon Hats ami in I Gloves and Belts, Kut Soon the Gowns IVill Be Green. BRILLIANT NEW DESIGNS. Skirts Are Tijrht Xearly to th? Knees, t Then Suddenly Cascade Around tiie leeu PACK TO LONG STRAIGHT LINES. Paris, France. Not the least interesting in-teresting feature of the Exposition is the display of powns which one is permitted per-mitted to see there. Walking through the picturesque thoroughfares one is struck, first, by the beauty of the buildings build-ings and the wonders of the display for the Exposition is a grand affair in spite of the criticisms showered upon it and, secondly, by the beauty of the women who turn out daily in full dress parade. It is like a I'.eauty Show to Fee them of an afternoon! A visitor to the Exposition remarked that it entertained her to notice the contrast between the dresses of the na- tives and those of the foreigners. The Turkish women in their odd and bright-ly-hued costumes; the Algerians in their loose robes; the French peasants in their neat caps and aprons; and here, there and everywhere, mingling among them like beautiful butterflies are the French and American women types of all that is modern and beautiful.- One of the gowns just seen is worth a description: so plain was it yet so admirable. Of turquoise blue cloth, it was made in Princess design the Princess Prin-cess ending in tunic shape. The skirt was perfectly plain except for a box plait at the back. Skirt and tunic were bordered with black silk passementerie. passe-menterie. The sleeves were very tight j fitting, ending with a point over the hands, the point bordered with passementerie. NEW GOWNS. A golf cape was of figured material, with the figures in black upon a ground of turquoise. The yoke, collar and cape were of brilliant plain silk in red green and blue. The lining was apparently ap-parently continued in two long silk ends that were knotted in front. A gown of khaki colored cashmere was cut upon the long straight lines w hich will be so popular this year. The skirt, by some miracle of cutting, was very tight around the hips; but became be-came suddenly very full from the hips down, lying around the feet in masses of fulness. The bodice was laid in diagonal tucks that met in the middle of the front un-der un-der a bow of brown velvet. The sleeves were tucked at the top to correspond j, with the bodice. The tucking was con- j' . crci? w This .an mI&&Z&SES J A; - taoaooooeoQOOQOOOoooooooooaoooOOQ9 tinued upon the hips making a very neat tucked yoke for walking. This could be carried out in the new fall sill:s with good results. The autumn checks are now seen. Some of these are very brilliant, and in striking contrast to those of previous prev-ious seasons, in that they show tiny stripes of silk running through the I goods. Fancy a gown of Scotch tweed j in blue and green plaids, every third ! stripe being a red silk one. Such a material was made into a Princess tunic tu-nic so cut as to be open down the entire front. The points of the Dodice rolled back showing a white lining. The vest was of white taffeta with a knot of the silk in front; underneath was a second vest of dark blue taffeta ap-pliqued ap-pliqued with Venetian lace medallions. The underskirt was a plain one in dark blue taffeta. Medallions in the j Venetian point trimmed the tunic. I White is now considered the smartest lining. It soils easily, but can be readily read-ily cleaned with chalk and other substances; sub-stances; and is so neat that it really repays the trouble. There is this, too, about a white lining that it matches match-es or "goes well with" all costumes, end is therefore very economical from a standpoint of dross. There is nothing more garish than a coat lining of scar-j scar-j let worn with a skirt, lined with an-i an-i other color, showing plainly that the j coat and skirt were not of a suit. HARMONY OF COLOR. In purchasing a fall outfit many French women adopt the plan of selecting se-lecting all gowns to harmonize. Suppose Sup-pose they choose navy blue and bright scarlet as the key tones of costume. If these two colors are selected they are careful that everything else that is purchased shall go well with these shades. For the season they tabboo pink, violet, and all but a few shades of brown. They wear no purples and use little black. The blues and the reds and the yellow browns are the tones that are selected for all articles from the hat to the train of the gown. White goes with all and is freely employed. em-ployed. Lovely effects are shown in the horizontal hori-zontal trimmings. It is true that the majority of women should not wear these; as the side to side stripes certainly cer-tainly tend to make the figure broader. On the other hand, by a judicious waist treatment, the lines can be brought together to-gether and a fat woman can be so broadened on the shoulders and so narrowed nar-rowed at the tvaist that she is bene- mm PRINCESS OF BLUE GASIIMETLE, TRIMMED WITH NARROW BANDS OF INSERTION. THE SKIRT IS LAID IN ACCORDION 1 PLAITS. fitted by the stripes instead of made' larger. A certain pretty dress had a yoke, -est and collar all of one piece with the stripes running from shoulder to shoulder. The material was corn colored col-ored cloth with the stripes of the narrowest nar-rowest black silk cording. The cords were laid close together in groups widely wide-ly separated. Woven in the silk cord was an occasional bead to "wink" at you, as the French modiste gravely assured me. The skirt was laid in narrow tucks, each tuck edged with a row of the cording. cord-ing. The over-dress was in two parts, body and tunic. The body was a simple sim-ple check, cut with a curved . outline, and slashed very low upon the shoulders. shoul-ders. It was bordered with a fiat band of wood brown silk, with another band of silk set an inch back from the first one. The tunic was cut Spanish shape, long in the front and short in the back. . It was bordered with bands of the j brown silk. A curved design in the silk bands extended down the left side, I with each curve terminating in a little knot of brown silk. A very striking hat was worn with this costume. At least a foot high in the back it was lopped with long plumes that twisted and curved in every ev-ery direction. The front was low and curved and finished with a knot of the checked goods. HAT TRIMMINGS. The fancy for trimming the hat with the dress material is becoming popular. And it must be confessed that it gives a wonderful air of finish, though the milliners declare against it as being inartistic. But as a fad it is growing. It may be a knot of checked goods; it may be a bow of velvet; it may be a bunch of silk braid twisted into a rosette; ro-sette; it may be a row of colored passementerie pas-sementerie carefully sewed fiat around the brim to match the passementerie on the skirt. It may be the silk facing which matches the silk lining of the tunic. In such and in many other ways does the hat correspond with the dress. So great is the fancy for the corresponding corre-sponding hat that milliners are hesitating hesi-tating about making up their creations except upon order. A few are needed for the window display; and then there is always a demand for the all black aside from these, it is almost impossible ! to find a sale for hats made up in hap-' hap-' hazard colors. j Pa'.e blue, turquoise, tendre, and sap-I sap-I phire are all much worn. Then there ! is a blue that is called the Lady Ran-j Ran-j doiph Churchill blue. It is an old- fachioned blue, pale and pretty. It i lisi j FIGURED C7TALLIE WITH VEST OF CRPPE AND HIGH COLLAR OF WIRED EMBROIDERY AND LACE. was the color selected for her wedding gown, by the sponsor of the color and has suddenly sprung into popularity. Gowns all in this color are very charming, charm-ing, with hat to' match, and no contrasting con-trasting hue save a touch of silver in hat or belt. Cream roses may be worn underneath the blue hat brim; and a bunch of cream silk roses upon the corsage is admirable. The new cotton dress goods are seen j in tiny figures, most of them in the I "novelty" line. One of these, intended I for a summer afternoon gown for II street or house, is of novelty goods in grey with pin stripes in blue: lovers knots in black decorate the surface of the goods. The bodice is laid in tiny plaits that terminate at the bustline. A deep collar falls over the plaits and is finished with the narrowest trimming j of white insertion. The sleeves ter- i minate in the same way. i The skirt is long and full with a deep j ripple around the foot. Bands of in- sertion trim the skirt. This could be I carried out in darker goods for a fall j house dress. I A little yoke of taffeta is worn with this gown, with high shirred stock and pointed shirred vest; GREEN COMING IN. Another pretty gown for house oi street is of old green foulard with a swirling figure in a darker shade oi green. The skirt is trimmed in eccentric ec-centric fashion, with a taffeta applique, appli-que, which is put on so as to make a yoke upon the hips and a curved design de-sign upon the skirt. The bodice which is of pale green taf-feta taf-feta is laid in little folds in such s way as to come together in a single fastening at the bustline. An applique of lace trims the front of the bodice. The prevailing color of the autumr will be green, so the modistes declare. You see it now in brilliant and startling start-ling contrast to the costume. A vei: of green is tied around the hat brim. You also see it in the polished leathei belt and in the gloves and other small articles of dress. But green is comine in as: a dress material proper and wt will have our gowns of green, our automobiles au-tomobiles of grass color, our hats of la1 shades and our wraps all of the emerald em-erald hue. There is this in favor ol green that it combines well with itself You can use several shades of greer. in one costume without fear that thej will "swear" at each other, a thing that can not be said of the blues, nor yet oi the reds, though yellows generally combine nicely. ' But green the season will be; and ii you are of an uncertain complexion it would be well for you to begin the work of selecting your particular greer which is sometimes not an easy task. |