Show RACE WITH A MAN MN EAT EATER ER STARTLING ADVENTURE IN THE lamoan ISLANDS while enjoying tile th of ilsuk uld jud fair off through tile ali an n ea 1 14 ta ers a fil earrk tark 1 I had been trat traveling cling around tho the world after tho the fullon of englishmen and had stopped at the samoan islands on my way up from australia to run them oi 0 or and gain somo some information regarding tho the eiith 09 wayn and and diatoms customs and ae as it result I 1 became of tha place climate and people and remained there a year during that eluio I 1 made myself familiar w ith genrl nearly all tho the islands of tho the group and ono one in particular eular had a peculiar to mo me it was called in our inaccessible ae as during a majority of tho the timo time it as almost impo to go 0 ashore iwo I wo glided into it luttio bay and wore era eoon soon on tho beach chich led up i to somo hah ix hills well timbered with tropical and plante plants I 1 soon caw saw tho the cause of tho the trouble in landing once on tho the hill tops I 1 looked down upon a long beach upon which beat tho the ducat isuel I 1 had over ever seen tho the wa waves as were timidly great rollers which camo came in a low slow dignified fashion that wae was moat most impressive tho the men who had all MI boon been thoro there before ran down tho the shore where I 1 eoon soon saw them hauling some planks from tho the buh which I 1 learned they had concealed on a former occasion in tho the waves were utilized by them to enjoy ono one of tho the most exciting sports imaginable and I 1 was very cry quickly initiated into it tho the men throw off what little clothing thoy they WON then each seized a plank and attempted to launch it this was easier eald said than done and many were tho the upsets that ensued as the big rollers camo came in but finally all till of them got beyond the shore and bookil tho the point where waves broke aud then I 1 saw where the sport camo came in tui aing ning in shore tho the men throw therace 1 ea upon tho the planks and watching their opportunity steered them so thul they hold their position on the cressi 01 the roller and como came in with it onen indo r a Y the nath natives es ekil lully raised them i belvea to their feet bot and so apri upright ht camo came eughing rug hing in 1 ras I 5 r I 1 those days than I 1 am now and soon convinced myself that I 1 should enjoy this sport as well as tho the natives and securing a plank 1 I too pushed out from tho the shore the first wave that struck mo me drowned mo roe but I 1 dived into the next and my plank lank beat me in about two minutes I 1 tag was net act easily discouraged however howo vcr and kept at it with a stancy worthy of a bettor bater cause and finally lectured my position upon a wave and felt for the first time the thrill and excitement of tho the onward rush thero ws wa a fascination about it that I 1 cannot explain 11 a during that visit isit I 1 did not attain suM sufficient clent skill to enable mo me to tako take tho the erifile standing but on subsequent occasions I 1 become became barely proficient and then tho the sport for a time became a veritable craze with mo me and ono one day when tho the sea was particularly high and rolling very viry heavily I 1 met with my adventure thero there were six of us enjoying the sport with ns as m miny tny natives native I 1 hud a plank plan k especially mado made for the purpose wido wide and stout enough to bear my entire weight and by dylr upon it I 1 soon forced ny my way over the ho iu it oming iraln rollers an ana a floated in the comparatively smooth wlter beyond hero here I 1 turned y plank shoreward and waited for a good roller E cry third one was as a rule large and finally a bl big green bodied one camo came whir whirling lingin in sitting shutting out tho the horizon As it came I 1 caught it and as I 1 felt tho the transferred I 1 lightly sprang to my feet and toadied 1 on tho the monster that eten extended dod up and down ano shore and ana waa wm rushing in to its own destruction the exhilaration amounted almost most to intoxication on I 1 went tho the big wave beginning to comb and hiss leaving mo me on tho the edgo edge of a watery precipice into which apparently bo be thrown on I 1 we wet t shouting gaily to a companion on tho the beach then I 1 suddenly became aware that For como nothing thing woe was bost best too I 1 gave a side glance and the realia almost made me lose my foothold upon tho the rushing a plank what I 1 saw was tho sharp dorsal fin of a man manu unter ater shark cutting along through the water uko like a knife tho the monster was thirteen or acre feet long and waa was partly turned up toward mo me showing the white gleaming undersurface what passed through my mind in those few seconds can hardly bo be imagined I 1 gave myself ma self up for lost as I 1 believed that tho the shark would soon rush at tho the alanl when over I 1 would go an coay emy vicia 1 I do not know that I 1 ha 0 more than ordinary nerve but it cashed through my mind that possibly the shark was waiting for or mo me to too fall fail and fould not make MI rn attack unless I 1 did ana anu in some unaccountable way I 1 wae was enabled to retain my solf self posses eion sion eiery second I 1 was gaining every second brought tho the big wave nearer the beach now it was on the verge of breaking all tle shark maintained its position then I 1 heard tho the welcome roar aboc ca and down it camo came like an avalanche avalu ache scintillating 1 and gleaming Ri camin until with one mighty burat burst tho the monster broko broke for a single second I 1 stood in tho the mass and then wits dashed upon the bench beach safe and bound sound tho the shark did not como coma in which was a evidence to ino me that it had not been overcome como by tho the rueh rush of tho the water but woe was simply following mo me with luo duo regard to lid its cu culello cul elno laino I 1 nood hardia sty a that this was my laet last experience peri ence riding brea acra hero hom upon inquiry I 1 learned that natives had been attacked by shark sharks during the sport on several occasions occa elone when I 1 look back upon it and recall tho the tion of rushing onward high on tho the crest of a big wa a I 1 almost wish I 1 could indulge in tho the sport again though without tho the shark accompaniment |