OCR Text |
Show V ' I. SEPTEMBER THE MORNING EXAMINER, SUNPA 1904. . f il lil tc ; af ? 4 r fH 'I : i . !: SSjQvGbCONHZ. jEqcte is Up-2&-Ib-u. t rat k Introduced In th front. Thera ara tha semlfittlng military product tone, braided juet Uka an army offlrer'a tunic. And there ara tha looaa garment built upon tha touriat design. Purely tha eholo la varied enough to plena even the moat captious. Thl latter garment la hugely favored for tha pedeatrlan and traveling suit Tha coat la uaually out with looaa full back, tha aid aeama flaring outward aa they deacend, and tha fulpeaa bald In wlih a back alrap that rune from tha aide aeama only. The front ara alngla or aa beat aulla tha wearer; and tha .leave, too, ara a mat. ter of choice. Borne ahow the plain tailored pattern; other have tha looaa pagoda design, while still other ara cut. puffy or of iipw Hut no mutter what tha cut of tha ona Item la a'ceve or f the front there ci Minion to all of them, and that la a of pocket. For, satisfying Hhiuulnni tin- Ural time In her life the pi'1 fuslia. liable sir. know Ilia comfort and c'n vcm nro .f pockets: and having i tier experienced iliiuu. alia la not likely In site thum up again without a alrug-gl- r. The girl uf th mil And erect carriage will ii ii'iu-- l Ij to tile ml.ltury mode. ( n gllrupae of the I. nr hint epriug w- r Iiiii'.ix.'iIoii jimt enough IwM'iruiloi'ii for more. Tha to Hint d- - :'.ipi-i,teh c.iita mt cut juat like roll-bac- double-brraate- 1 fi 3- d. - V i g-- c erlv-tit'.in- the army offlrer'a tunic, end slashed and braided In tha aelf eeme style. Tha neceasary and Inevltubla touch of gold braid will this aenaon be quite apparent; but It will follow the line Inld down for the junior officer, and trill not take to Itself the gorgeous emblaaonment of a major generals uniform. These military coats exhibit the fashionable straight front, and come juat down over the curve of the hips. The skirt to be In strict accordance with military modes must ha plain, nnd these era gored with quit a flare at tbs hem. Tha braiding follows tha lines of tha coat, and la but sparingly applied. For dressier appearances there are delightful wooltez cloths In tha chiffon and satin flnlshes; and tbesa ahow touches of cloth Inlaid and braided elaborately. Tha fitted styles prevail In these; and the skirts. while fitting closely over the blpa, ara mad to allow an amplitude of material at tha hem. There la uaually a little band of princess haircloth run Into either the hem or the drop skirt, for tha ahaer doth must have aomeJilng more than the moral support of the fashions bit cut to support it at tha ankles. Tha length In these akirta varies more than a little; and ona can have tha rasterre atyle that escapes tha ground or tha longer cut, en trains, which tha boot formal occasions demand. pale-tint- I Many Modes of the Til if CORRECT with (he coming of the autumn day the frilly and fluffy girl, aha who all summer long affected tha modaa that pretailed M tha times when bar grandmother waa young, ah will have to retire to tha background, for tha tailor-maigirl la the on who saw aoouplaa Ilia eenier of tha a lag a. The tailor-madgirl baa been with ui a lung time; but under ao many phase and ao many gnlaas baa aha shown barself that wa have act had to tire of bar, aa Varied bar been bar appearance. ls e ea JjhnannlahjIrwiuMforredMittojw tMMOl tar- - wwi but-ah- a la ata t I ha fare to the new tallorwd styles. She affects the straight, plainly asvera mod, aad you might almost think that bar elnthaa had baaa fashioned by her brother' tailor. Rut aha baa toned down bar former raubaraao aomewhat, aad la witling ta admit aoma little touch af fauilnlnlty ta bar tol lotto, Her collar ara as longer tha atilt starched affair. aad tha Miffs Ilk her brother' a, ara oonspteuously lacking. Rather dura aha leea ta the soft collar, with Ita fotahhig little warded turnover, and a smart how tie, Tha rainy day gM Is well provided for tn tha new tailored designs, and many uf tliem ara especially fashioned for her uea. Tha cravsnetted materials for cravenet ta la a process, not a dress material all of tha new tweads ara represented; and these ara thoroughly water-proIn every respect, while looking jua. the asms aa tha clothes that have not been treated to thla process. Of enuraa, It goes without saying that her skirt dears tlie ground all around; but It la to ba noted that tha ankle or Inatap length has taken to llaalf an Inch ortwoIandmiw Is just Ivtrsly short enough to eargpa the floor and to iHilnr-mat- talM departure foam tha of the runtnaf frtUy and flaffy style i time will bo aaaa in tha first of tha an ataann wear, for th time hat looks too gum-ithat Banna alto- Sgnr too muchas Ilka ruahtaig tha season, preparing th moat and In material which ara Juat Baht for tha firm fall day. AS af tha tanfeaa datagna and (hay are far more atm amnia than on weald fancy at thought ara Baht oa th Of th wave of th flckla dama'a Aad thaa than an toquaa made of almost ovary material that to Bated en the fashion roster. Is recogufllnn. doubt Ivan of tha many sunny days yet to some th broad shads hat la still retained, and thla la aa easily manipulated to a becoming auras or Has that its possibilities in th hands of a clever milliner, or of bar squally clever customer, ara almost endless. Th ohsaraiuiMmmdalns who carefully $fofcs th field af fashion ovar fully r ah make bar purahaoaa haa awak-aae- d to tho fact that aU of tha imported modal thla aaaaoa are what ara FW batwa ar fm la-i- knows to th That to trad aa madef hats. tha straw or fait or braid la faahkmed by hand aver a wire foam and Bia meltons that tha possibilities of this mods, albeit of naeaaalty a mora costly inraatmant than tha blacked shapes, make It a far wider purchase than tha ones which warn a batter bargain at tha start. And on of tha astfama iMvelta fla-which th elavar ParlataraM Mnt tu la th use of tha faraw aad 1 realty braids for millinery puruooa, jtat tha aam braids a tha beat tailor and dressmakers ara employing no taw.ahly and to such good affect, nnd which mtv bn purchased at tha trimming counter ta any of th good stores. d For th beta, thus Whirh follow th cavalier line, these braids nr elmply delightful. They ara not too asvera for dressy wsar. although they can hardly b counted In th category of discs hata. While on tha other hand they tons lu beautifully with th woollea gown that la considered Ilia correct thing when th daya shorten and tha leaves begin to turn. Ona such model recently received shows a fancy mohair braid fashioning tha crown and upper brim of a sliapa which somewhat broad-brimme- raaamhle th Short beck sailor, except that the left brim Ic caught up to III crown In dashing aiyla. Th under brim Ic faced with folds of white end the edge la hound with a darned band. In which strips of w lilts felt and block ribbon velvet are n In th danu-pattern. A ei'ff. square bow of this finishes the band that encircle the crown, and a pair of Mack wlnga are posed juat where the leaf turn upward at Ilia side, one wing lying flat over th crnwn, .uni die oilier facing the upturned brim. There la just a shallow vclcl-ci- v red bandeau at th left side. Just enough in lilt the shape a trifle nnd In nffn-idi it Indescribable little touch or il.iah dial I makes a list ao felchingly And then there are ti e tml.i:ii and th toques. Th girl who favors and ran wear Ilia somewhat liylng X:iM'l-nahaH-will view with gif the lu ti.y modlflc.itiona or that si yin whirh die beat houitra are showing. The crown i an elongated diamond shape, the iimni running wlilewlae-- to coin a woid to fit tha case tli brim narrowing id atnioal nothing at Hi back and lulling a must becoming Upward awrip and llore In front, tif course, for I hire al.apia tl.e trimmings anvor of inlhiary aiiiipil-.-ltyA still aigrette, a military p.nnpon, a bunch of atlff quilla Ihruat through Ilia brlin, that will be aufliueiit gnrnilurc for the Nopoleuii aiyltL In of tlmee mililjiy niodi-s- , bow- ever, on must not forget to add that the gold bmlda of last et'.i.nn hate Cniae to the front again with an added force and un added beauty. Indei-djudging from tha l'nrl.lnn nuiilclr, wc only gut a glimp-- a or this fnvnrlle of faahlon Inst year; It Is really ta nrilre hi ns full vogue In the days Hint lire yet ta muus-selin- le xl servative on-- who wait and sea a thing tried out first they arc all adopting the marc sober tones for the body of the hat and putting In tha touches ef contrast In coma ona or another of th vivid colorings that are tha newest things on the fashion card. The wood and leather browraa ara highly favored, and they run from what one might cull a deep ecru down to s burnt umher tint. In fact, all of tho burnt tones are right In tha front rank; and It really makes ona think of s care-lia- s rook to rend down tha Hat. Thera are plain brule. orsnga brute, olgnon brule-th-- ee burnt being respectively bread, oinugc and onion to mention but a few of tha lending econihera." Them nrn touched up with tha orange tint: and die browns often show a glip.t of prnrnek colorings or a louoh Of cur.il or turiiu.iso. The Autumn Millinery. at hitcr-wove- j d-- l ! i Nobby Walking tume. CUhTliME. Show tha tip of the ehlny black shoe. The heat tailors are adding a bins velveteen binding, claiming that thla prated both shoe nnd skirt; and be that aa It may. It certainly makes Hie smartest flnl.h for a prodnrtlun. Thera la such a wide and delightful in the thla enale vailuty year that every type and alyle uf figure can be suited ami sutlefied. There ara the ahurt-ntlilittle with fiivoluua-loukln- g coats, basque. There ara more stately and dignified longer coats, with fitted lines revealing the figure, nnd a handsome Cos- . The rn'iiv-di- y Prl I amply provided for in I In- - new wonltev costume that houses urn allowing. An model, siiunt. stylish and withal la (Im I of cravenetted west of t.iigl'irui tweed In a' hrown mixture, hliowiiig just a lil tic glint of red and of yellow here and there In The cneluine repreaenta tha the tailored design and ta gulltlcaa of trimming, odier than what tha oscillat- e. ing ntlicli of the aewlng machine The coat ta a nHullllcatlon of tha popular lourisr rut, having tha full ril tl-- aup-plit-- Hats Which Will Accompany the New Tailored Gowns. A STUNNING , Quito tha moat novel of tho full tailored millinery bmlda, hata are of Inside-s- ot but dress braids, euch as on buy at ths trimming department Th on ahown her Is Is s black wsvy braid, sewed smoothly over the foundation frame, which roll high st the left cldc I flattening over tho crown. The brim bound and th crown banded with fancy braid of black velvet snd while silk tape. Interwove kindergarten fashon ion. Glossy black wlnga Ita cloa th crown snd on tha side rulL THE NEW COLONIAL. The pert snd piquant sir of tha colonial endear It to many a heart and hind. Nor will Us admirer let It remain long hi oblivion. Here It ta ehown In a combination of green and whit mixed braid, green velvet piping and astrakhan bands. A bunch of green I caught quills, with white edges, jauntily at tha left under s knot of th ft-- ehsrp-polnte- coin. The Paris The little velvet toqua, which I n eminently I coming and which we l ace neglected for an long while etpi-- i with ah:il,,m mi perhaps humble or piv.liy. II. m ta to be of li c leading styles. In ei. n.u InMdiio it lir-'f to iakra of the futo.ed urj laahlunalda tui lun lima, but I aider those of round il.an of pomicd ali.iya. Slurring and amucklng will ba taariy eiiiplcycj for theta soitly prvdy little huts, and when Hie necessary touch of fur Is. applied thou they Lika on an adJud smartness sTUi.li luakea them c n.-i- t . ; Th'a Is another creation of the present ses.cn whl-- h ba come because of the character of tho fabrics which are exclusively used rather than because tha faahlnn has any peculiar beauties to -t IL Llnon di aota. chiffons and superfine muslins and mulls arc especially fitted for this style, and they ara undoubtedly the fabrics of the smart set this season for all summer wear st all times nnd functions Th material of the Mouse Is first .thnped out all In one part. Thera to no scam, and thla at tha back. Tha body part fasten demanded not over th bust, fulness but gathered in a hanging point draped over the lower portion of th blouse In g front must b gatbeicd on to a yoke lining lu bock and franc Alluver lac or ruched chiffon or niched lawn should be caught over tho upyer part of tha lining and fall over tha ehouhlcr sesma, and to this deep Is re must be stitched and the who La mad lots a double ruble which will i .commend lrresillblL aim-pl- Tucker Blouse. - Then there ara tha beaver cloths, those soft, shaggy, furry productions that In their newest appearancta ara ns sheer aa chiffon aud as auppia as ahk. lliry can ba draped and folded and twisted ii.lo almost any ahnpa whatever; and for these tha preferred trimming to y s knot of velvet the ombre or shaded velvet ara vary faahiuiuible and parhnpt a flat wing fir two. Now aa for tha colors which th milliner are showing. The best and riev-errdrawers and this will Include tha daring aojla who ara aver trying nrw exparuuenta as well as tu mar con BLACK AND WHITE .EFFECT. THE TOQUE CP TO DATE. The toque ta not to ba shoved In the facorner by any newcomer. It'a vored as ever title fall, nnd comes In many charming effects. The one shown blend-I- rg la tn the new roq noTi shade, Into n deep red brown. The crown velvet la partly defined. The ot ahiri-elias for adornbrim of s soft plush d ment s succession of IL to fitted closely wings I A nobby waiving nr cnatnms for enrly P- - pirmber. The matrrtsl Is mixed novelty wool In shades of saw blue, and th trimming consists of binck doth buttons A chio Tam O'Bhan-tc- r ta mode to match. ng TOO LATE. Yon aeon aad, Marie; what's troubling you?" John propn-e- d last n'eht snd I to accept him the first time. "but you sreented him the second dMn't you? tin, "There was' anv second time Gown. e straight back, the fullness adjusted by a belt strap running from tha aids aeama, d and- - tha fronts, and oa tha box order. Tha sleeve, too, follows the plain tailored pattern, having merely a stitched alrap, with button and buttonhole for cuff trimming. Tha skirt r FOR DRESSIER OCCASIONS floffa Tha smooth-fi-n lahed, aa are favored for the dreaaler tailor pi, in tha woollen design the duct Iona; and new niordore tint Is relieved with touetai of sulphur yellow cloth braided h brown. Tha coat Is of tha tralght-- l fitted variety, oolloxlesa, and with H1 the suggestion of a vest IntrodueadV ' naath tha braided fronts. Tha ilefi to full and somewhat of tha btstaf of Ita atyle, tha cuff showing tha touch The skirt ta clsvwtr light colortocloth. meat the requirement dtclgnad the mode, showing the doeely fitted nethe knee, where gratga per portion toera inserted, and overlaid of aide pleat bos plaata making a panel effect, anl adding to the width at tha foot Ita beaver production, ihm hat a whilelinen of tha new toque A the narrow catches tha soft Mr eaboehon fancy nluma which floats at ona aide and re lievea tha ae verily of tha plain tailed! . i no Lata Fret Ba Of Fret Wilhelm Hla the German anatomist who died la ltaf years, Nature mn last at tha aga of 11extended e oar that ba altered and mote than say of human nnalomy tntrodsesT rare man of bis time, "H accurate methods of studying th Iona la fashioned In 11 gores, each having a and relationships of tha yarioqa Pupils want to Urn side pleat Hitched to the knee and flar- of tha body. of tha earth and oarrtad ing from there; and the hem la faced HP Barts native universities IN with a broad bias of brown velveteen honest spirit of Investigation, tha tacta and finished with a double row of Plata method and the ta htatahoia-tory nlqua Hla had Introduced stitching. Lei at pahs. 'espeoildly0rtfa3 OF THE MILITARY MODE. ta world wlde'fjit There ta rather more than a suggestion of military plainness In thla woultex production of dark hrown homespun, State. " . double-breaste- astrakhan. rnit-leaal- Simply RAINV-DA- Tailor-Mad- with Ita dashing decoration of tosMta and slashings. Tha coat la eomewtiata the tunlo order, with Ita thnaqoutg lilted back, and fronts that ahow ball single dart. Thar la a high mflttsir velvet collar, tha front at bralM h the asm atyle, and tha epautacta cleverly carried down the sleeve, tha adding to the broad and aquara akwb der effort, whtrh tha coming styles mend. The skirt la gured. with a him liar In each gore, and tha braiding applied an suite with that on tha rat, billowing tha lines of tha slashed iklna of that garment. The braid ItatU k i novel weave, having a crimped or fatal effect, and la outlined with a aarnv brown and gold soutache. 1 tight-fittin- knew!-edg- -- j follow the bust line and drop to within four or five Inches of tho waist lies The points in th ruffles should coma os tha Inside of the arm as turned lu walking and again In the mlddls of tho fronL Tho tight fitting foundation now Indispensable hsa two aide pieces and there la only one dart on each aids Tha sleeves ara a work of art Is themselves Soft satin or lac should bo aewed on a tight fitting lining from tha wrist up to a point on Inch from ths elbow. Ths upper part as shows tn s recent Paris own bad a puff atasv diameter which Is caught at tt der seam sad on to the tight low tho elbow. Ns lining Is ths upper steers. WOULD BE REQUXSXDk As soon as automobiles become wm generally used X expect my tamm pick up. I suppose you ar la th mamma? 'No!,I manufacture srtlflBal --J i |