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Show ' D ' ' ' V ' y HELEN FALCO ' ' ? " CAPES ANB. MANTLES Will Be Exceedingly Popu- As for textures, the basket weaves of pure wool predominate for everyday wear, although there are some exquisitely ex-quisitely pllablo zhlbelinea and very eoftly hanging cheviots. Zhlbcline used of old to apply to a long, shaggy-appearing cloth veiy beautiful In lustre but wufully heavy to wear and exceedingly exceed-ingly heavy to handle, but this was long ago superseded by a lighter weight material that lost none of its that makes them quite easy to handle where they Lave been rather the dls- I Patterns and Features. . Among the other qualities which, these very attractive cloths have i3 their soft color combinations. Somo&r are sprinkled with a tiny pin dot of at? contrasting shade or lighter lono of theR sa7ne shado, while others have a tw;ist-j ed thread of color running through, Jf used with discretion If of a lighter shade. An especially lovely cloth was shown in two shades of heliotrope, tho body of the cloth being a deep bejlo, .while the twisted thread of color " l y,. , III cheviots there arc littlo two-tore i checks, narrow stripes and even some large checks, although these border too much on the startling type ever to Le much used by good dressers. rL'''l-lJ:'''''Ki-"LTlytf 1 ""'- '. " T'-.vc''; ily wear in street clothc3, being more for dressier wear. Serges. Tho ever popular, and I must confers moat deaervedJy popular serge la here c'ii2iL5lr'T-'- "A 'wy ..- imm:.: :, SIMPLICITY A KEYNOTE Exquisite New Materials and Tones Devised by-Weavers by-Weavers and Dyers the liberty scarf which la laced through Blx long buttonholed slashes, and ending end-ing In-a tasseled scarf. The high inlaid in-laid turnover collar, should, of course, be of the same shade if not of the same material as the scarf, or velvet for the collar and liberty satin for the scarf, which may be either of a lighter tone, a contrasting shade, or of black, which la really the smartest touch one can give almost any color. For Early Fall. A shorter cape' of excellentline is shown in Illustration No. 5. It is especially espe-cially adapted to early fall wear and will appeal strongly to the woman of limited pocketbook. It can be made from a very small remnant of cloth, as will be easily discerned by tho cut The yoke-like top Is cut In one pleeo with no 6eams on the shoulders, or If a more economical U6e of cloth la npcessary It may be cut In two pieces having tho joining or seams on the bias in tho centre of tho back. A very stylish finish Is given by tho addition of a stitched strap applied to the edge at tho sides where the arms would cause wear and on the graceful shawl collar. A single large button seems to hold It In place, although a Mind fastening down the front is preferred in addition by some. A most happy compromise Is accomplished accom-plished between the cape and coat in the mantles depicted in Nos. 2 and 4. Tho cut of No. 2 is especially smart, tho semi-double breasted front fastened fas-tened with two large cloth buttons being slanted clown to the cutaway skirt, thus breaking the Hoc of the front very cleverly. The back is fitted panel, from either sldo of which escapes the shoulder cape. Towards the hips it widens into a tabier like broad skirt piece which forms the back half of tho coat aud the upper and outer edge of this tabier extends Into a email tab which fastens with two buttons on tho front portion of the skirt about where the pocket would ordinarily be. Making a nice balance with the long lapels of the collar the neck portion of which Is velvet or satin, tho ends being passed through a silt In tho lapels and fastened with two buttons. Exquisitely Simple. The shoulder cape explains itself. Of great simplicity is the mantle shown in the fouith illustration. The cape and front of the wrap are cut in one with no scam on the shoulder. The cape Joins a back panel and Li decorated decor-ated in two shaped self flounces ending end-ing with two self buttons. The shawl collar is a very graceful addition. The double breasted front is adorned only with three of the buttons. Very French and In exceedingly good lar JJrown to Be V avonte Color in New Shades CONCERNING tailor bullts, none will dispute tho fact that nothing noth-ing tan supersede them for utility, stylo and trlgness, but all will admit that tho comforts of a loose mantle, or caps are without their Squal even In a tailor builL The dressmaker dress-maker will hall with Joy the gladsome flows that the Fall heralds are an-pouncing an-pouncing In loud and stentorian voices the arrival from London and Paris of tho long coat and enveloping cape to lake the load in out of door apparel. While tailor bullts will, of course, be widely worn, the coats and capes tvill predominate bo the provident woman may rest her economical soul and build her own Fall wardrobe from start to finish. Many of tho now gowns are, of course, tailor made and nearly all have a tailor finish. But almost any of them can be duplicated by a precise, neat cewer that can Ft itch on a straight line on the machine, so that tell-tale earmarks ear-marks of a first-class tailor can readily be dispensed with in the construction of the new wraps What is more forlorn for-lorn and pitiful looking than a liome-mado liome-mado tailor built? It shrieks and moans from the time the first unworkmanlike unwork-manlike stitch is put into It and one is ever conscious of its anguish from that lime until in disgust one has relegated its limp and shapeless form to the old clothes man. 9 Prim and Severe. Without exception, tho now wraps are plain and practically unadorned, or trimmed so flatly as to preserve their Quakerish air of primness. To look smart this season ono must look plain, no matter how one's heart craves adornment and sparkling buttons. Browns are Favorites. Drown Is perhaps tho loading shade as it ha3 not boon much In ogue tho past few seasons and is therefore slightly new. There are some beautiful beauti-ful new shades never attempted hc-foro hc-foro in woolens, and they are indeed roost enticing, ranging from a deep tobacco brown that Is almost black, through lighter shades that just escape being golden and take on Instead an Illusive Il-lusive pinkish cast like the under elde of a mu&hroom, being almost too delicate a suggestion to really believe and still It is undeniably there. Green Is perhaps the next in favor, and while It would seem well nigh impossible to conceive any new shades of this universal favorite, the dyer3 have outdone themselves In several now shades, moro accurately described as popular shades. They are neither greenish green, grayish green nor brownish gTcen. but If one Is famluar with the color aspect of the baric of those over-twinkling trees that Btand in firm rows along country lanes, ono will know without varlanco the exact shades. They vary between greenish, grayish brown and golden brownish green.' seemingly green yet gray like a green tree trunk In a gray mbst with thes unllght on It. Then there are bottle greens, chameleon chame-leon shades, which are, of course, changeable, and the beautiful peacock shades of the past season. Among the grays are new shades known ns maple grays. There are two tones, one a clear, decided pure gray, and a very much lighter shade that Is whltl6h although al-though a pure gray. In short, they are exactly tho shades one will find on the bark of a maple tree. New Varieties of Blue. It would seem almost incredible to "believe human Ingenuity could devise new shades of bluo arter the multitude of new blues so widely popular for tho last few years. The blues of this season sea-son are stone blue for the darker shades and lighter tones of tho same shade with a faint and exquisite suggestion sug-gestion of rose in the high lights. style Is tho paletot shown In figure No, 1. The back Is a long shaped panel extending to the shoulder like a Gibson waist, narrowing at tho hipa like a man's coat in two slight points, then falling a trifle narrower to the hem. There Is a narrow side piece forming the side skirt to which the shaped front Joins. As will be noticed In the drawing, the front is cut with a wide portion extending on around the hem of tho coat, this disappearing beneath the panel in tho back. Tho upper portion of tho coat is slightly gathered across tho front in two rows of ohlrrlng, joining tho 6klrt in tho same line as a man's coat. The back, while not shirred. Is very box-llko and loose. Frogs and buttons of braid aro the only trimming of this vtry smart model. The coat sleeve Is large at tho top, although perfectly plain and H slightly gathered into the shaped cutt of velvet, which is of the same material ma-terial of the shawl collar. The entire lines of this coat arc quite mannish, while the form of ita construction gives it a sufficiently feminine touch to be moat attractive. In other words. It has all the swagger of a man's coat combined with the daintiness of woman's wo-man's apparel. again this season, in several variations of its broad whale and finer patterns, and some are woven In Scotch plaid which will enhance itself to tho mother moth-er of the school girl. The Military Cape. For the delectation of those who admlro tho lines of real military capes, a very excellent adaptation is hero shown in Fig. 3. In place of the severely se-verely plain front of tho regulation military cape, which does not admit or much cloth, a pleated pauel la sub-' 6tituted which has all the severe style across tho chest of the regular capo, combined with plenty of fiare below tho knees,' n feature quite essential on stormy days when such a wrap Is most appreciated. This extra fullness about the knees is arranged in two deep sld j pleats stitched flatly to the capo as far as thu knees, when It falls In well pressed kilts allowing ample play for tho legs, at the same time hanging perfectly flat when not needed. The back Is finished with a similar panel, although it can be omitted without spoiling the appearance of the cape. A very chic finish i3 given by Sumach red is another autumnal color that Is iDtcnsc without being vivid. Dusky tones of the dahlia are reproduced In almost Incredible faithfulness. faith-fulness. One of the greatest charms : of this seasou'3 colors is their intensity inten-sity and firmness of hue that Is at ouco rich and lustrous without being vivid or crude. ''-'r 'i.iiv"" " ''" "' ; silky beauty. This eeaeon tho ma-, terial Is even more supple and exquisite than ever. The basket weaves too. aro greatly improved upon, having a smoothness and evenness of xweave may of the dressmaker and tailor. ijilws j"mY i 'Vim.- .v. - - ,.- . '( -?'., American Fashlono- ' ('v v'1: Shun Freakish '.fy Extremes. : ' :i'i ,: ,y--: them: but, whatever combination tho i color note Is only a suggestion, if in contrast with the general tone, and : I i Street was of buff and a; very light hello-trope. hello-trope. This with a buff hat and gloves would be most charming. Among the There aro several novelties in tho way of a smooth material Intcrspi-rsed with interesting bits of zhibelme in the way of Hulu squares and tluy stripes. Also there aro exquisite beautiful beau-tiful silk aud wool mixtures, soft aud pliable as silk and draping to even better bet-ter advantage. These, of course, do not lend themselves for general utll- |