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Show THE ZEPH YR/ DECEMBER 2006-JANUARY 2007 on top of Nebi Musa, the runway lights of the new Sinai airport twinkled in the the latest findings ini the Natalee Holloway case, a juggling competition in Las Vegas, or a stance. Mr. Magoo starring Leslie Nielsen. We arrived at the top with an estimated 1,000 other visitors. The group inundated the In recent years, the Egyptian government has spent some of the billions of dollars in top of the mountain. And remember, this was just two weeks removed from a terrorist US. aid to bring “civilization” to the Bedouin. Instead of a nomadic life in the desert, attack in the nearest community. I wonder how many thousands would climb the mounthe Bedouin are painfully adapting to life in establish communities. One of the largest of tain under more peaceful circumstances. these communities is at the base of Nebi Musa. The sunrise was beautiful, the setting was spectacular, the climb (or ride) was memoAfter our early wake up call, we boarded the bus and drove down roads illuminated by rable, and the experience was wonderful. I can’t help but wonder, however, if the new streetlights to St. Catherine’s National Park. We began our hike, but it wasn’t too long before we arrived at the camel loading station and met Oscar, our Bedouin camel wrangler. Oscar (a name he picked up because his Arabic name is unfamiliar) was easy to spot: the fashionable tip of his fedora made him look like a member of the Rat Pack. Oscar did all the talking and helped several members of the group secure a camel ride. They rode the camels up to the mountain to the bottom of the stone steps. I decided to walk with my son. Bedouins, who were trying to change our minds about the camel ride, destroyed the solitude of the walk. Every few feet, a mysterious figure would appear out of the dark and whisper an offer to get us a camel ride. The trail had also changed. Instead of nothing but a simple trail, there were rock “rest huts” and “coffee shops” every few hundred yards. They were lit with kerosene lamps and offered a full range of snack foods and soft drinks. I wouldn’t have been pumpiecd to hear the whir of an espresso machine. Once the trail reached the stairs, the hassle began in full. Bedouin were begging for the chance to escort hikers up the stairs (for a fee) or to have a blanket (for a fee) or even to developments at Sinai have destroyed the very thing that gave the area so much charm. Solitude is replaced by beggars. Noble, silent and mysterious Bedouin have become Oscar in a fedora. The night sky is blotted out by airport runways, street lights and rock huts selling Orange Fanta. Hotels, swimming pools, and crowds. The magic of Sinai is becoming overwhelmed by the efficient and annoying hum of civilization. I wonder if my Greek Orthodox friend at the monastery has given up and returned to Salt Lake City. Bill Boyle is publisher of The San Juan Record in Monticello, Utah. EMAIL YOUR FEEDBACK TO THE ZEPHYR Send your comments to The Zephyr cczephyr@frontiernet.net or write to us P.O. Box 327, Moab, UT 84532 LITTLE WEASEL ADS, INC. PRESENTS THE DESERT RAT COMMANDO |e, So...Meriwether. I take it you're looking for Clark. He's on page 13 with Rick. But tell me...how in the hell did you ever make it to the Pacific? And BACK again??? ‘We owe our lives to SACAJAWEA The group arrived at our hotel accommodations and I was amazed to see western-style buildings with the largest outdoor swimming pool I have ever seen. We went to our rooms to find cable TV... have a mattress at the top (of course, for a fee). They would grab you by the elbow and push you along for a few steps before demanding payment. Yes...But I came back from the dead, It was a disappointing situation, to say the least. Light pollution has also been introduced to the Sinai. Instead of mountains shrouded in the dark of night, the miles of roads with streetlights create an eerie glow. Once we just for the chance to fondle your DREADS. AMELIA ERHARDT!!! Aren’t you the famous es :ke)= ‘MOAB CYCLERY CALL US TOLL-FREE 888.304.8219 Weide aa ee Pitas 94 WEST 100 NORTH MOAB, UT 259.5333 rimcyclery.com BIKE RENTAL & SALES sys ar a OO 1 MAPS & BOOKS K\ 'RIM-BRANDED' \. MERCHANDISE female aviator who seas in 193722?° A over the Pacific |