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Show BRflk II Abb Ar"v 5 fBfiaittS WPMbbb bb i View of Cairo. fl t IB A (Prepared by the National Geographic Society, Waihlngton, D. C.) It Is dllllcult to shake tho dust of tho ages from tho land of tho Nile nnd to runilzo tlmt there is nn Egypt of the vibrant preseut Tho recent announcement of the withdrawal of tho Ilrltlfdi protectorate from tho country, however, und the setting up of Its first king In more than 1,000 years turtiB tho spotlight squnrely on the modem aspect of this long civil-Ized civil-Ized region. Tho map lacks much of giving ono the true picture of Egypt. Tho country coun-try Is shown covering n largo area of northeastern Africa. This Is tliotiom Inal Egypt. The real Egypt Is a nur-row, nur-row, tortuous strip on either sldo of the Nile and the fan-shaped delta surrounding sur-rounding Its mouth. Save for a few oases outsldo tho river valley, the rest of Egypt Is but a sea of sand practically prac-tically uninhabited. Figures confirm this, for of tho moro than 3T)0,000 square miles of Egyptian territory only nbout 12,000 enn ever bo cultl-voted; cultl-voted; and n considerable part of this tillable area has not yet been reclaimed. re-claimed. Looking only n( the surface of Egypt's Institutions, one Is likely to decide tlmt the changes since the days of the Pharaohs have been great, but when certain fundamentals are considered con-sidered the wonder may well bo ut the lack of change. To be sure, the Egyptian of today speaks Arabic In-fitcud In-fitcud of Ids old tongue; nnd Osiris, (sis nnd llorus have been long forgotten forgot-ten for Allah und Mohnmmed. Ilut In spite of numerous Invnslons, the blood of the great majority of tho population has been altered hnrdly nt all. Egypt's reswuri-cs ure almost wholly agricultural, und In the agricultural scheme the millions of fellaheen are the ultimate units. They work long hours scratching the soil with crudo Implements, or tediously raising wnter In skin buckets attached to pivoted poles that the thin stream mny save their plants from parching. Taxes are heavy, and it Is the lowly fellaheen who keeps the treasury supplied. Living Liv-ing conditions nre very poor; mud hnts house most of Egypt's thirteen millions. In the fields they wenr lit. tie more than n loin cloth, nnd tho younger ehlliTren of the vllluges go naked. When the fellah Is "dressed up" hevwenra a rough shirt and. loose trousers. Cairo the Wondsr City. The stamp of the outside world and of the Twentieth century on Egypt is to be iseen chiefly In Cairo, that wonderland won-derland which bus superseded Bng-dud Bng-dud us "tho city of Arabian Nights." Calm Is a living kaleidoscope, with Its gleaming nnd drub human fragments frag-ments tumbling Into n chnnglng pattern pat-tern not merely from Enst nnd West, but from North und South as well. White-robed Itedouln, Ill-clad fellah, shiny-hlaek Soudanese and central African negro, snnrthy Turk, Persian, Hindu, Mongolian, dusky Moor, Italian, Ital-ian, Greek, Jew. Armenian, and the n biter folk from Knropo, America and thp iiiitlpodes-ull ure Jumbled together lit Cairo, their vnrlous tongues making a babel that can hardly bo duplicated ut any oilier spot on earth. The life that IIowb along the HtreetH of Cairo could not be duplicated nny-Hhetv nny-Hhetv else In the world. At tlme.i the Western observer Is likely to In reminded forcibly of circus parallel, on Slain street bnck home. Swnylng camels move along with brightly dressed riders perched upon ihem or with suspended ears In which ijro veiled damsels, while dnimmcre thunder thun-der their rhythm nnd life blowers emit their Rhrlll notes. Snake-charmers pass along with their bags of snnkes; ninglclons perfnnn In some nook; bnllock-carts and Inden thinkers com-Prte com-Prte for space with shlnlni; limousines. limou-sines. , Cdfes In the Streets. The at fresco enfe In ono of tho most characteristic marks of Calm. It Is not .! inert, or less well-ordered nrfnlr of the boulevnrds of Paris. .Sidewalk and streets overflow with wemlngl) innumerable chairs and iibles until often a single (lie or pedes-mans pedes-mans ciiii hr,ly fom. ,, through, one Kt., tlm ,pri,88l,m that few p-ople need to work In Cairo Even In j. morning the chairs uru idled wlih apparently prosperous nun Mppl'ig coitve ot aweetened wu- ter, purring cignrettcs nnd tnlltW Toward noon they dlsuppenr for their siestas, but again ut four or & o'clock they are out In force and remain re-main fnr Into the night. Among them clrculntes a stream of peddlers offer-Ing offer-Ing for solo almost every concclvabls wnro from BwcotmeatB to mousetraps mouse-traps and underwear. The dweller in Cairo who has not his sen-ant or his group of servant! is low Indeed In tho economic scale. These serving men carry tiny bundles for their employers or masters. They run nhend of en rr luges to clear tha wny; they fnn nwny tho flies; nnd on after another they como in troops Into tho presenco of tho prosperoua to bring smoking materials or to offer a bewildering succession of drinks " nnd foods. Life Is hnrd nnd a few cents n duy satisfies them. Eveo tba J porters who carry heavy bundles nnd nettle ne-ttle boatmen who laboriously pole tha lei-Nile lei-Nile craft against tho current work tie 12 or IB hours for little more than u if i ninny cents. In Cairo is tho Oxford of the Cm Mohammedan world, tho University ot B cKi El-Azhnr. It seems a queer "unlvcx- Brrili slty" to thoso familiar with the higher fl md institutions of learning ot tho West luvt Its classrooms nre the hnlls nnd BtU niches of n mosque. Its professori I j, rccelvo no nnlnribs but aro primarily Bl5( religious officials, government em- Ifor ployces, lawyers nnd tne like who B tench in addition to performing their to j, regular duties. Tlio pupils, who at f times number moro than 5,000, sqaat r, on mats whllo their instructors lee t ture. This premier college of the j Moslem world bus been in existence i. for 050 yenrs nnd hundreds of thou- ' .. snuds of students have passed e through Its doors. It lias been the ," center of tho nntlonnllst propaganda u" which has sought entire freedom for J'"-' Egypt- More, It Is the hotbed of Pan- "'" Islamlsm, which, llko Its companion Unie movement In the pnst Pun-Germanism would combine Its own culture E with militarism to dominate, the world. Ilut Pon-Islumlsm would go further, i tj and would bring the world, ns well, 0 under tho religion of Mohnraiied. . Glimpse at Egypt's Past ' tilt TVie Egypt that emerges now ngala jlu: ns a kingdom hns hnd a checkered j1 history, but that Is rensonnble enough "oltb when one recalls that It hud one of . thp earliest of starts. Here Is one of ' the flrst plnces In which maa Htm fcrl nji ordered life und left records o( bis activities. Some nnthropologliti, Be In fact, look upon central Africa m the plnce of origin of mnn, and upon Egypt us ono of tho flrut wuy-atatloM In hlH diffusion over Uie other con- tinontn. uw, After tho long reign of the PnaraoM ( Egypt had Its Greciun nnd Homw . m regimes which, brought but fw Bid B, change. Then In 0-11 A. D. came t ,!; of Invasion of tho Saracens, from w&icn Bsore time began Egypt's Mohnmmedin jm history. Vr u time the country w a province of tho Arabian cnllpM. Inter It wns Independent, though sun n Mohummedun, under tho MnmeluN. ttast nnd tinully, In 1B10, it hecnine a pn Witm Ince of Turkey, which controlled B'W Hrst through n governor nd ' ou through u sort of heredltnry viceroy i Ion , or khcdlve. A . , " on Kor the third time Europe took re?n hnn.V in the affairs of lfcPt to JJ jMd when Nnpoleon won his buttle of g i t, Pyramids. The Hrltlsh drove v Krenel. out In 1801 and turned J H, country bnck to Turkey. In 1SC0 g Uevt the billldlng of tho Suez cnnul ny Ut, fj U'sseps. which hns ri.CoE,f. ' qver-growing Interest In Kpptlw J tcherj fnlrs. To protect Burni" Slu, lioldcn France nnd "' a' mude a Joint Intervention l '"- ' la8 for n while controlled """"fr,., ?.!,rra uprising In 1882 ngnlnHt t that was Hupiimed by thmJlUncrt ,he" nnd nfter thnt they controlled in without nsslstnnce. The jot era g W wns In effect Bgyptton i BJuhl. iiBslstanco nnd with ,' firf. E"0 uisemhity of Turl.ey a . When tho World war began u m Britain estnbUsheil a ,& ri abolished Turkey's auxen inty.OT p, told the (Jermanophllo "e,,le,lll" fw.tt El.fm pointiHl another prlncj; f j, BJ ka obosultun. Tl.ellrltlshPwW' 4 m Is now iKdng wlllHln.;v; J V WMl of the fonucr Turkish ""''JhJrjfljJ 1 pumletit Ulugdouu r ,6i |