Show b T L SST v v The inThe I inI Art M MO f Dressin 1 O in America 6 3 SARA A COOK St iii a Y 1 i 4 U 4 d AI left Bade and front item of ofa a afternoon coume con l b t siding of ofa a de t tr f t ft Chine dress with witha a r t 9 1 r rA and anda andr ande r r A pleated shirt a e r Mandarin of h t orange crepe de Chuff 1 jv embroidered in a r a ax x r I r rr yf s r t t o- o oscan scan design r g 1 st lf a ag aI m I a 0 f w o fI I t I J t a r r f 7 he vogue for pleats Is r i s s st i t reflected in the costume ter lit of darll blue crepe de det deI t I f 1 1 L Chine at the I If r f u 1 t t J 1 sl r t h 4 R I 1 1 I tt t t r i t I l a h ht 1 Ff tl 4 t e I t r I L it 1 f T h C Nf v r z r l i t 1 p 1 A i I 1 e 1 t- t tt t f t ti kj fi I I I E c I iT iTs 4 sI f s g 1 14 t 1 t j jiji V G f q i a I J Ji i j ih t a l 1 t 7 a ai J i c 1 o ou oo ona u tili i i ic o na xi I Ii t aO 0 l I N I j t tr 0 r Mf 0 0 rAl Al fell Bloch afternoon r o a adress Above at al right right-Doucet model 4 dress from Dorat showing t the trimming The of grey mOIre hal firing a Ie ue 7 s and sleeve s arc edged organ organdie dIe collar and 1 with white bands J T rw Styles That What Have I Become Popular HE RE American woman is con constantly con con- constantly constantly THE T the subject of a i- i great deal of l h a 1 erse se criticism criticism criticism cism in the matter of dress Most of this criticism is unfair One rarely hears that the wo of out OUI own country are arc the best dressea best omen of the although this lS is undoubtedly a fact The statement is made continuously that the v omen omell of this country show how no originality in the thc matter of select select- selecting ine mg ing that clothes clothes that each woman wants to look 1001 just like e eer every er other woman oman This statement is is 1 by the fact that sit 10 0 many of the ideas launched tins this spring have been adopted by them Women have C not 1 tun un to one or t two 0 st styles stales es in m dress It is true that an any style st Ie that is 15 be- be becoming be becoming coming will toll III be duplicated again ng-am and again agam because everybody e kno knows knos s that thel there e is 15 rot an unlimited SUP SUP- SUPply supply supply ply of ideas in m dl dress ess either hue hire or orin orin in au any other country Take for m- m stanc the gnat cleat vogue rogue ogue foi for pleats Pleats at ate aie e teen seen e eel el e even evenin rn in most unexpected places on cos- cos costumes tunics Yet the vogue rogue ogue for pleats ino i lS s no stronger than that for 1 fabrics or foi for blight bright colors or for forthe forthe to the trimming that n leas m made de so popular The clothes sketched on to day da s 's p s pa page Ke e show a Cr cr of the th mentioned above Ideas the ideas the la la is use of pleats the cockade g and bright coor color colors The use of quan S of pleated on one on e costume is I sun seen in to the model mo ld at the th e upper light right of this page It also als o carries carnes out the idea of the fancY fanc r cape to match tin the e I L This Is ys of lOUIse course a novelty Y m n tailored fashions Short capes cape s of all II lengths are arc attached to jackets jacket s as well as to dresses Usually tin the e garments are re so 0 fashioned that the th capes may be d detached tl ch Skirts may have hate ha e pleats either orone on i one side both side sides or directly in inthe the front There Thele is usually a plain Ibm skirt beneath these pleats to which the tho pleated section is stitched l so that it docs does not widen Iden the skirt When they are arc used at the tide sides sides they are very tery er T much like a fan stitched at each side of the garment gar gar- garment ment A Tendency Toward The Shorter Waistline T THe rp UC IE models sketched sketched to-day to all stress sll the idea that the Sl sil silhouette is still straight and that there is a tendency to ar toward l the waistline although in m man many instances the waistline still rests on the hips A clever cleser idea idla in tailored things and one which Inch is seen frequently IS i the tho little jacket with Ith belt in m Jumper jumpe form so cleverly cle arranged with the thi sequence of lines Imes in the jacket jackel aid 1 hut t that one has the impression of a lobe robe The jacket however ho hoe e eer er may be removed rag ing a dress with fancy silk top to or n a blouse of silk or organdie org A novelty trimming tf on tailored 1 SUitS consists of bands of bright t colored embrOider embroidery on skirts and an d jackets This trimming is forme formed d j by printed figures figure cut from crepe I de Clime Chine and applied in a design on o n dm dark daik cloth usually dark blue beige The trimming is to in Oriental colors A remarkable bit of coloring In Inan i an afternoon suit sort is Illustrated d to- to to fluy in the model from Doucet showing ing a crepe de Clime Chine dress dies with wilh a mandarin jacket of orange orang c crepe de Chute Chin m l a Persian design Doth Both the backan back an and n d front views of this costume arc an ai shown as well as a the upper part p rt o of f the th drew dress s which I is illustrated in i Ii n th the fm small sketch at the bottom bott r ef i ii the page Persian embroidery also alse is used on the frock which you will notice is sleeveless slee Printed crepes and tussahs in the most wonderful colorings are arc us used used for very velY straight or slightly draped gO gowns gOns ns of this S sort sort which are arc sleeveless On these those frocks belts of mutation imitation jewels often as ns beautiful beautiful beautiful ful as real lev jewels jewels es are used Fre fre- frequently Frequently the punted printed flowers CIS on such gowns ns gonns measure mea ure a quarter of a yard yamin ard m in diameter Frocks of this sort are arc very tery ery striking but difficult to tow tw w ear car A ible model mode is a frock of oi black crepe de chine with the lower past pait embroidered witha with Ith Itha a scattered des of garden flowers such as a sunflowers ers or bright red holly holly- hollyhocks hocks in m actual sue Ite The embrOideries eries are arc done in iii blight bright colored beads Most of the frocks frock of this thi type are in what night might almost be 8 called chemise form except that t the blouse is i caught up upon the lining Sometimes these trese frocks are arc s embroidered all over oyer in imitation pearls combined with wills Ith brilliants A great deal of embroidery fre- fre frequently in to this bold type is used on un e evening dresses The vogue for to such uch embroidered designs is un an out out- outcome outcome come of the I sage iago age for tor e cu printed panted m in III striking patterns a One of the prettiest lines In afternoon dresses is that of a neu Jle apron front which is really in m on one I piece beginning at the shoulders shoulder and nd draped at a low ow waistline I pulled in by a belt which goes across the Lac bad These apron fronts continue around the backa back a little vi tiny ay ay thus cutting the rho back rind and making a very tery cry pretty line Irne Handsome belts bells belt or motifs motif of 1 jC jewels eIs which tics u formerly have hav aS YN YNg g Ay SS F 0 7 r connected with evening dresses often form form the color touch on 01 time day-time frocks In lingerie those dresses those which ch have not the great spreading skirts skirts-a skirts a notice notice- noticeable able feature is the sash of rude w ide rIb rIb- rIbbon rib bon bun tied mound the lips hips ups s with ith a abIg abig l bIg bit bow which has ends reaching ing to the knees These bos bons bow bo s sometimes are enormous An English Note In Morning Suits BERTHAS of lace and of white organdie are a feature of man many afternoon dresses The berthas usually go 1111 ill 11 the th way ay around the thi shoulders andreach and reach to the th elbows elbow like capes of them go about the arms to form sleeves slee as BS well as asa a a cape These do not cover the tin front of the tir dress In carrying out the three piece idea there are arc numberless models in ii morning and afternoon dresses in inthis inthis ii this stYle The Th morning costume are arc in simple tailored effect with I jackets while the th afternoon costumes cos- cos costumes costumes RIO nio more elaborate with wraps In the three piece effect for morning an English note sometimes is sounded as many of o the jackets are arc in modified Norfolk style st e that s I is to say with pleats in il Tours groups or singles caught in jn WI with h a i The sealed seated figure abo c e shows an almond green grcen crepe dress by trimmed with van col ored braid edging anda and a bouquet a abelt 1 belt slightly below the nor normal norma al I waistline The Tir afternoon three-piece three SUits suit are of a much more dressy charac- charac character character character ter being entirely in the so called so fancy tailored styles if in m cloth and nn when in silk crepes epes they are dl- dl do decidedly elaborate looking feminine affairs Agnes makes great use of printed printe fabrics In fact they are a domi- domi dominant dominant dominant nant note in h her r line Her lIer choice has bas fallen on green as an nn accessory color She frequently chooses the green pattern from a series of o prints so that there e is a decIded preponderance throughout the tho line I of this very Cry popular color Many ManyI Man I prints print on white while grounds are arem anin I m in black and green and prints on black are often in while hite whit and ani green Very many of her ller dresses ses have havethe havethe the almost norma normal w waistline Skirts are ara ample but not full fulland and rather inclined to the straight line as she chiuses use uses many plaits plaits forming entire skirts apron fronts or set setin set oX or loose panels 1 I r rs rt t s The selch above shows the dress portion of the Doucet Douce after after- afternoon afternoon noon costume at al left of the page It Ii Me the Mandarin is embroidered in a Persian design The Egyptian Back In Dinner Dresses HER line is particularly strong in what hat would be known as dresses She shows very few extreme evening effects In III her dm- dm din dinner ner nor dresses di esses which ate ale often of sheer materials material with the shoulders veiled she the has a 1 sort of I Egyptian back which is ii liko two hang hang- hanging hanging ing mg one on each side sid from flom a II neck neek- neckband neckband band These hang Jang straight down to the waistline and are caught by a II girdle surrounding the hips Thus there is a blouse back without be being ng a blouse back because in n between een the two panels the natural curve of the figure is resealed re Often these have havea a slight fullness h makes them hang in m a graceful fashion This same back is worked out on other models models by me means ns of the th sin sm- single sin single gle panel extending entirely across the lack back without break but winch which is trimmed in the center with II a abroad abroad broad band embroidered with bril- bril brilliants brilliants bril brilliants thus dividing the back into two panels Agnes shows almost no full skIrts in the called so-called Lanvin crinoline st style Ie There are ale just two in the collection One is made of a changeable taffeta which shows three scalloped flounces sprinkled wIth small flatly roses The other has a II deep flounce of or- or organdie or organdie inch wide frills frills- Otherwise frills gandie with tiny Otherwise her skirts skirt are ar of II a ra- ra rational ra rational tiona medium type This how how- however however however ever is not surp surprising as Agnes is is well known n for tor h her r robes de dames She docs does not in to an anay any way ay cater to tc 4 the hade for oung girls C ri She makes a II dignified beautiful dress that is flattering to the oman of oft t matule lines Herein lies lies her U her gr great at success S She e is a sp specialist specialist fOX for ma |