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Show B ' .-.-----,. - - : - . : . - ' HB JJT; , T jH K flfflft JL- By HELEN FALCO aJLs '' II Wm . . . , - . . . ! inH Fabrics That Will 1 Be Worn This Fall M$ ' ' No More Short Coats Except the Eton Jacket Pleated ml Skirts Once More Poplin and Zibeljne mml DLEATED skirts and coats twenty-J Mml t six and twenty-eight Inches long'. f It soands like a revolution, jHiJ doesn't If A bas the short coat, ull JfbiU that very abbreviated affair, the 1 Eton Jacket, which came and was s,een t I 5 and did conquer lat spilng and B $ threatens to make another attempt at - 'f popularity thl? autumn. Wo shall see jT Fashion makers put their trade tO- I i -But it Is wearers, or those who refuse J to wear things, that d3lde what shall r i become popular. Lnst year we II ' abandoned our nice long coats, which V y were so comfortable and warm and $ peaceful and made us large, so tall and uVi svelte. We arrayed ourselves in ab-& ab-& ; ; surdly short jackets 'monkey jackets - almost. Those among us who were too lender looked pitiful. Those who wore vcr-blown well, the effect was too bvious and too distressing to be ln-Istcd ln-Istcd upon now. They were trim and leasing worn by the Perfect Thlrty-lx Thlrty-lx But the Perfect Thirty-six looks I 'ell in anything She is a child of Forme. For-me. Alco a darling of the gods Serge Js to be worn again It seems havecomo to stay. It is shown in ve smocjth weaves, almost invisibly bbed. lit also comes in the coarse, lde-wale qualities that have already ljoyed a great vogue. Poplin Is to have a Bpoclal place of s own amuDng the autumn and v. inter ibrics. It'l3 a versatile -material, ap-jaring ap-jaring in many guises from grades lat aro as .heavy as any winter ma-rlal ma-rlal to thm silky fabrics that are ,-ed most beautiful shades and are ade up In the Bofte3t of evening wns. Poplin has a vogue every ten fifteen years and it deserves 1U It ways comcB back to us improved in any ways, and tho artistic stuffs at are now "known under -the -generic rm of poplin ext not the stiff dust edding material of our mothers' day, though having- all tho serviceable mlltles of that fabric. Cashmere is alrio used for autumn iwns. It comes In various weights and xtureB and It la much used by the rench dressmakere for smart gowns r semi-formal occasions. Camel's hair 1b & favorite of the rench dressmakers this year and some ; the smart suits of corded cloths that ive been sent over aB models for com-t? com-t? lng cvonts have collars and cuffs and i other adornments of camel's hair of the I same or a contrasting color. m ; Zlbcllne cloth is to be used for heavy St winter suits, and very smart versions f of it are to bo seen among the autumn novelties claret color, for Instance, d ; with long hairs of gray or white, or " ' gray with hairs of dark green, odd but i attractive, and like most rough sur-, sur-, ' faced materials full of possibilities of "i ; smartness if well cut, and made up in I l simple and severe rather than fussy fashion. - 5 The quintet of smart gowns shown ' In the illustrations epitomize the fash-S fash-S i Ions for early winter and show some I of the most pleasing models that Paris 5 i has sent to us for autumn wear. There ? Is a gown of blue-gray cashmere, for 6 X Instance, with a chemisette of white H i lisse ornamented by a double row of iil 1 white pearl buttons not mother o J T pearl, but the flat, rough pearls that ' are found in American rivers and are A considered by somo artlctlc folk more I r beautiful than those frozen moonbeams I ;j that cost fortunes. 4 4 The surplice bodice of this frock is edged with bands of rose and dull green printed liberty silk, in a deblgn of palm loaves. The sleeves and tho foot of tho skirt aro bordered with the same rich and yet clinging material The long scant overskiit Is slashed at one side and edged with buttons and buttonholes. The hat is of blue-gray silk beaver trimmed with a band of ymW z lift vmM m Ifll IIIx'b velvet of a deeper tono of gray with velvet roses In deep tones of red Another cashmere gown costume Is of bright blue, which In Paris Is known as "bottle blue " The bodice and tho skirt panel arg, outlined by soutache braid and the ceinturc is of striped silk The hat worn by this trlm-llgured lady Is of blue and black. That graceful frock of striped voile with bolero bodlco has an underblousc, sleeves and underskirt of bright bluo and the entire gown is piped with this color. Tho voile Is black and white The blouse has a double row of tiny silver buttons and at the foot of the skirt is a band of silvei transparent embroidery. The overskirt Is caught up In front In what French coutuileres call "wash-women' style which does not suggest, as it does in this country, a sloppy, loose and hardly dainty manner man-ner of doing thugs, but refcrB to the charming retrousse oversklrts of the lavcuss who beat their linen on big that shado of bluo peculiar to tho hybrid bloom. A useful little gown has a high-cut skirt and a coat with the Dlrectoirc tails that are seen in some of the more-formal more-formal costumes. The coat is not shown in tho illustration, as the peculiar pe-culiar smartness of the blouse was considered con-sidered of more Importance The skirt Is close-cut to the knees where It flows out into pleats It Is of gray rough-surfaced rough-surfaced cloth a rather fine quality of Irish frieze. The blouse is of gray marquisette over striped rose silk. The adopted the fundamental Idea from their London confreres and made them beuutltul as well as practical. The reverbible evening cloak was a feature fea-ture of the summer fashions and for thp autumn It is seen in all its glory of soft satins and panne velvets, usually usu-ally of black lined with a soft tint: The heavy garments for golf and motorfng nnd dijvlng aro ically smarter. smart-er. In spite of their greater usefulness. They arc worn for traveling, and motoring in England. In Paris the fair huntresses who attend the big "drives" ' 1 Mvl&j' 'wCT p4- rWmm9rWk N B:hMn I uW&il ' iWv $$ '-wm c- W$&$i Wm iW&m - iRPlSiii ; nil villi i M WMmsml fMMMMi !Pv JjPBgBI . Coil KwafewnSBSW ' fSiljSSSBX h"- ' MtS- m-w Ik w?ilvv' i II' &M fl: : j m Hfw'sIv:.;?,li I Ifw-ri'-f 11: r j IPk R W'?v -Wil -it ifs ;" f wSM A ftmmA Ikfc iir': w ar-4 stones with wooden paddles, nil along the sunnj bankb of the river Seine, the Manic and the twisting, plcturesquo Olso. Tho hat accompanying this fiock Is of bright blue, faced with velvet and trimmed with a posy of shaded roses Another gown of gray-blue has an odd celnturo made of bilk cord and tied In a knot at ono side. The front Is ornamented orna-mented with Jet buttons Tho kimono shoulders aro of heavy white lace. The Inlaid collar and the gauntlet cuffs are of black and white novelty velvet. The hat Is of hydrangea blue, edged with black and flowered with hydrangeas In frill Is of moussellne embroidered with largo dots The shoulder and sleeves are strapped with gray cloth. The buttons but-tons aro of pink coral The tie and bow aro of rose silk. Tho hat Is of bright rose hairy beaver with a panache plume at one side Among the moat Interesting novelties of tho season are the long and luxurious coats worn by tho women of Lenox and other resorts of the rich and fortunato when they take their walks and drives abroad in the ci isp autumn air These coats are French and English Eng-lish of origin. The French tailors and "meets" during September arc wearing these coats, and It Is said that tho Duchess d'Uzes. who usually wears a hunting costume of tho tlmo of the Louis XIV. has consented to don one of these long, loose, picturesquo garments gar-ments as a proventlvo against the rheumatism that reminds her that In spllo of her prowess as a huntswoman she Is not a goddess. Tho smartest of these roverslblc coats Is made of white serge with collar, revers, pockets and cuffs of color-bright color-bright green or purple dark red. turquoise tur-quoise Blue, or plain black Whon the I coat is turned Inside out the wearer I finds herself clad In black, relieved by collar, cuffs, rovers and pockets of dazzling white serge. The effect is stunning, A coat of mixed grays, light In weight H Yl w (Hi W and soft and warm as down, Is lined with a plain cloth of much paler tone of gray, and the buttons are. of smoked pearl. The coats of black-and-purplc and of tnn-and-green are startling to say the least, but when these things aro worn by tho women who set the fashions for tho humbler folk, It is quite surprising how well they look. The mustard colored coat, loose and sloppy, that had 3uch a vogue last summer is a thing of the dC.id past, as far as fashionable women are concerned concern-ed It died last year before the horse show opened In New York, and the leather coat was ushered In with a fanfare of trumpets At tho aeroplane meets the reveislble coat mado Its first appearance, but It was looked upon more as a freak than as a useful garment for the many Today To-day It has won a, place for Itself that the untidy mustard colored coat never had ! The new coat is easy and comfortable but It Is a very trim affair with no ! extra fullness. Its comfort is secured ! by perfection of cut The seems are ! beautifully smooth, of course, as there Is really no seamy side. Th,e shoul- ders and sleeves are roomy, but the 1 front and back fall straight and loose, i but without gathers or pleats. Somo women always adapt fashions ' to their special requirements, and tho roverslble coat appears at tho autumn retorts in many guises. Ono woman haw had it made in tfrree quarter length, of bright blue broadcloth and black satin and In this ornamental , jj ,H garment she tramps over the golf links, H takes long walks and even makes calls. I H Tho buttons are of Jet and the wholo PJJI garment Is very piquant and practical. 1 H For more ceremonious occasion aro i H long, loose wraps of oxtreme grace and iH charm, as for example one that was , IH designated by a Paris falscur for the H lovely Princess of Plcss, and after- 'jl ward copied for fashlonablo America. ' "-H It is of black satin cloth, the upper part -ll fitting easily over the shoulders, and ' -mm drawn, with considerable fullness, into . jH the loose belt buckled with jet, back1 ' and front. Tho stialght skirt, joined , H to t gave the effect of a complete cos- H tume. Flat, cut Jet buttons, closed this 'H skirt from hem to belt, and revers ,H that could be lapped widely or thrown 'H open, achieved the closing of the upper .H part. Three-quarters long, loosely fit- H tng coat sleeves, set without fullness ! Into the arm holes, turned over into ll wide cuffs, edged two Inches deep, with ' H coarsely ribbed silk of brilliant green, WL and at the back there was a flat collar ' '' of the green. M One of the Fifth avenuo dressmaker 'IH has brought back from Paris ono of t H tno oddest and quaintest of models, that makes one think of an old picture. jH Like all odd fashions (as well as all jl conventional ones), It would look well j'H on a young and slender figure. This lfl unusual gown Is a sheath of white !fl satin, cut perfectly straight and hung lH from a rather high, round waist line. lH This sheath of a skirt Is covered from lH belt to hem with row after row of jH scant, gathered frills of black taffeta, 1 each ono edged with a row of tiny M white beads. Tho little silk bolero H that tops this strange skirt Is trimmed jH with an embroidered batiste collar, and 1 has rcvors and cuffs to match. il Figures continue to change to suit i the vagaries of costume and the latest H figure has a waist a bit lower than lH Empire fashions dictate The bust is extremely low and flat. While tightly I ' held In from the waLst line to below j H tho hips, tho figure abovo tho belt 'H should appear uncorsetted. Only a few ; ! JH bones aro allowed In bodices, ad theso should be very shoi t, to achieve tho 11 proper effect. Some of the new French H corsets are made oX non-stretchablo H silk tricot, nnd are boneless except for IH the busks at front and back. SH One of the most beautiful evening !P gowns teen among the newly arrived H models Is of white, silver, .embroidered IH tulle, the silver-belted corsage shaping IH ,i low unllncd tulle gulmp, eded at s. ' J J round throat-line with small pearls. V'rl At a high w'alst-line at the back, the il silver-embroidered bolt foisted Into a n buckle-shaped knot, dividing two largo-- - jH loops of stiff, outstanding ccrlse-color- t "LH 7cd satin ribbon. On each side tho rib- -11 'bon descends several Inches, narrowly - )M edging" a train composed of one breadth JM of black moussellne de bote, gathered M into a narrow space at the waist and iH hanging free. This train is shirred near the hem into a wider space (half tfll a yard perhaps), and ornamented with m a line of big loose-petaled. pink roses. Ujl Being hcavilv weighted. It keeps Its fujl position perfectly with every movement S of the wearer. m Two evening gowns of soft and filmy m character were mado in Franco for H New York women who pride them- tt selves upon being, If not in the stylo M of to-morrow afternoon, at least of to- M morrow morning One of these frocks M is of white silk voile, embroidered with M sky-blue beads, hung over a sheath I M of pale pink satin The celnture of H deeper pink is oddly tied In a stiff jM bow that rcarhes from side to side M at the back. With Irish lace, its deep B (M scallops hung with ball-shaped pend- jj M ants, trims the loose panel that shapes H the back, and narrow bands of tho H same lace edge the neck and sleeves. The other fascinating frock is of . jB white net woven in an elaborate de- ' Vm sign of large white beads. It is mount- M cd over black satin and has a celnturo lM of black. At the height of the knees and also just abovo the waist-line aro M placed pale pink ribbon bands which 'iB shlno rosily through the overdress. A t pretty feature Is a baud of black satin iB headed by a band of white moussellne- '11 de-sole, laid right across tho decollet- H age. Tho "sleev cs are of fine white M lace Jfl |