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Show Woman's World Skirts Require Expert Fitting To Solve Your Figure Problems A S LONG as I can have skirts and blouses, I can manage my wardrobe very sensibly," one hear women say. It's true, provided pro-vided those skirts you wear are so fitted as to overcome your individual indi-vidual figure problems, and that means they should look good on you. There's little to hide the natural hipline in most of the skirts even In those that have draping and the cut-off at the waistline draws attention atten-tion to the hips. That's why a skirt is demanding of the figure, and must be expertly fitted so as to suit the wearer perfectly. If yours is the ideal figure, and by that I mean one that is well proportioned, propor-tioned, especially through the hips, you may wear skirts that are somewhat some-what full. You also may wear the more tailored type that gives the pencil-slim-hipped look. On the other hand, the woman with the full hipped figure must choose her skirt with considerable more care. This type of skirt must be built on slim lines, but should never be too tight, as this will only emphasize the fullness. The waistline waist-line will have to be carefully adjusted, ad-justed, and so will the length, and in many cases you will need the help of an expert to assist you in the fitting problem. Color is naturally very Important In the choice of a skirt, as it must be both flattering to the wearer as well as most compatible with her figure type. If you are concentrating concentrat-ing on skirts, choose colors from which you will get the most wear, and those which fit well into your wardrobe. Inner Belt Useful For Firm Waist There are many ways of finishing a waistline on tie skirt so that it hangs smoothly. The waist may be finished with a binding, which is fine if you have a slender waist line minus bulging. You also may use a stitched on fabric belt, or what is you want them to look well tailored. After you have marked the pleats, fit the skirt and check it carefully. You also will have to decide where the placket will be before the job of laying out the pleats is finished. After you have fitted the pleats, turn your attention to the hem. Turn it to the correct length. This is also the time to decide how far down from the waist you want the pleats stitched as this will make some difference in the length of the skirt. Only after the hem has been stitched will you want to press the pleats. Before they are pressed it is best to baste them part of the way down from the waist. Some people stitch them all the way down, but this makes it difficult to estimate the fullness and appearance of the skirt. Fabrio Determines Width On Gathered Skirts Gathered skirts are still very popular, pop-ular, especially with the younger set, and they are currently being featured in black with a fetching trim of eyelet at the skirt to simulate simu-late a petticoat. These are very simple to make as they involve only a simple gathering of the material, an easy-to-make waistband and hem. Only very soft fabrics may be used for gathered skirts, and the width cannot be determined except by the fabric which you use. If the fabric is heavier, the material must be shaped and cut before gathering so that it will look best. Now, as to hems. These may be marked by someone else, after measuring from the floor. Or you can do it yourself with a skirt marker. Hems should always be basted before they are stitched permanently perma-nently so. that you are certain they hang correctly. Before turning the hem especially espe-cially on a tailored skirt finish the edge with seam binding. This may be wide or narrow length as desired" and best suited to your needs. Or, if you are not using seam binding, use a stitched turn, or turn the hem under. Once the edge has been finished fin-ished the hem can be basted and pressed in place and then finished. Press carefully after stitching in place so that it is perfectly smooth and hangs properly. Skirts are suitable only if they . . . even better in the case of a problem waistline, is the inner belt which will keep waistlines firm. Inside belts are made of a stiff material which you can purchase at a notions counter. If this is not available, you may cut a straight strip of buckram and fit it with darts to go over the natural waistline. waist-line. This may even be boned at intervals if you want a particular kind of stiffness with which to help keep the waistline narrow. The skirt edge is stitched to the belting, and then the belting is turned under so that it does not show above the skirt. Another way of attaching the belting belt-ing is to turn in the ends of the inner belt and attach hooks and eyes close together. The skirt edge is turned over this belt and it is held in place by catch stitches so no stitching shows on the outside. The beltline should never be fitted tightly so that flesh bulges over it. This will only make the wearer look larger. Use Care In Sewing Pleated Skirts Now that more fabric is available nd pleats are back in a big way, you may want to choose a pleated skirt for the wardrobe. If you are lender and well proportioned, you Fit the wearer perfectly. may choose a skirt with pleating all around. If you are on the heavy-hipped heavy-hipped side, use pleating conservatively, conserva-tively, with a deeply set in pleat at ' front or in back and front. j For kick pleats you will need ' piecing to make them lie flat. It's best to use a pattern for this particular par-ticular type so that you will have just the right amount of material. ; In pleating a skirt, mark the pleats carefully, using a gauge, and j don't spare the basting thread if1 |