Show 7 1 am 7 44 A milkman in seville prepared by the national geographic society washington D C ITU ITH the revolution a matter W of history seville which a majority of visitors who travel el down trow from madrid an and d up from cadiz call the most alost spanish city in spain has settled down to its usual routine but in seville now scintillating now sleepy is discovered a spain not of the drowsing past nor yet of the bustling present it Is an indiscriminate mingling of both abiding through the centuries herr on sun swept slopes the city has built for itself a dwelling place of traditions but they are not noi a high wall hedging it about seville takes tabes pride in tier her glorious past treasures it becomes frankly arrogant about it at times but her chief love Is life and the living of it her lichen covered churches slie she holds inviolate not one cobweb may be removed nor a single crumbling block of hand hewed stone be remor bared but across a well paved avenue a steel fabricated ollice odice building must incorporate every convenience of the modern builders art laden donkeys may and do wander willy nilly through everi every downtown thoroughfare but the driver of a it limousine must keep its his yes eyes open tor fa arie one way street signs and its ears alert for the pratlie officers whistle history lil story Is as colorful is as one of the silken shawls that thai drupe drape the shoulders of tier her dark eyed seno senoritas ritas as varied lis as the moods of her people as interesting as tiny any story may well be that depicts the romance of a town which has lived through the rise glory and decay of half a dozen nations tys actual genesis is I 1 lost ost hidden by the obscuring veil which shrouds much of the remote past of the mediterranean and which was only slightly torn aside by the adventuring phoenicians Phoenicia ns and later inter by the warrior merchants of carthage but there was a roman itoman seville of 01 that ancient period deff definite nite traces re main some of the crumbling walls of the city were built under the direction of the caesars caesara Cae sars the following the fall of romes western empire lingered for a brief three centuries in seville the jews too from byzantium came here to have leave their home rose to positions of power endured grievous persecution passed but left carved men memories corles of their stay gypsies still there likewise the here and here they hey yet remain crowded together in noisy little and big fil families milles in trl fina ana the ragged suburb of seville across the finally the moors possessed seville one must say farally because the city remains today something of a moorish town saint ferdinand brought it within the christian fold some seven centuries ago hut but all its might could not wipe out the orient the picturesque santa cruz district of seville with its narrow crooked streets and flat roofed companionable houses ho usei has changed very little in the last thousand years tile the cites famous and equally beloved 11 raida Is today much the same as when a moor ish architect completed complete it in 1100 and the white robed foli followers of mohammed used it its a min minaret arct but seville dwells not overmuch in reminiscences she reverses tier her heroes of olden time but it Is the ne roe of today that occupy her ali thoughts and newspapers annually annu illy she devotes many holidays in obeisance before ancient glories but the days before and after ure are spent in widening her narrow streets to accommodate a rapidly increasing motor traffic find and in building steel and concrete office building wherein to house her ever c expand epand ing commercial enterprises alcazer the old moorish palace re built to house the splendor of the courts of Andal kings icings remains mud much the same asat as it was cen aurles ngo ago but immediately across the street the new alfonso XIII hotel transplants one straightway to the luxury of up to date paris or london or new york those fortunate individuals who come to southern spain aimed with letters of introduction to high officials Is and wealthy families go away w with th glowing accounts of the sumptuousness s of life of the lavish hospitality hospital ty accorded visitors and of the very modern manner of living in this only modernized city other earnest seekers after local color who visit seville and jn in their desire to know their spain live among the alie sevillanos endure the inconveniences of modest spanish homes spend long hours bours in crowded ca cafes festo to engage in endless discussions with the ever talkative attend frequent festivals and bullfights bull fights these folk carry away a vivid glowing picture of a seville en flesta fiesta colorful rather noisy highly picturesque average income Is puny only in rare instances does docs the foreigner come to know the true home life of the sevillano there Is not much money per capita in seville these days to be sure certain of the cites families tire are immensely gwenithy and live in the style of oriental potentates and occidental occident ni plutocrats while foreign residents are forced force for appear ance sake to struggle along at a slin liar pace but such folk foil are a sta cal eal handful fully three fourths of the towns population lives alv and has haa its being and Is wholly happy on an income of around a dollar a day per person in many cases this income must cover the needs of an entire bentli e family and abid some of families need much but somehow there is always enough left over for the to afford a few hours each evening with convivial friends in a favorite coffee shop and to secure a seat in the sun at the sunday bullfight and for the numerous children to pu purchase penny sweets as occasion demands from the how howling huckster who passes the door each morning accompanied by a congenial donkey laden with sticky lusciousness and for the women of the family to hav a new imitation tortoiseshell tortoise shell comb a cobwebby lace mantilla and a pair of silk stockings this last because the weaving of silk hosiery has in recent years become one of leading manufacturing industries dus tries olives and cork seville Is an industrious city many of the altya activities revolve about tle the production and shipment of pickled olives and various grades of olive oil for it Is the central point of distribution for the richest olive producing urea area in the world there Is an ancient local saying that the only genuine queen olives produced on earth are grown within seeing distance of 0 the Gl garald tower the soll soil and climate I 1 of this region being particularly well suited to the hie full maturing of this class of the fruit much aluch of the cork insulation found in our modern electrical refrigerators and many man of the cork disks in the metal caps of ginger ale and other bottles were shipped from the port ol of seville the world acknowledges no wrought iron more artistic than that fashioned by the gypsy fam families liles of triana Ti laua industries however arc not permitted to interfere loo rad radically leally with tier her moments of rest and relaxation every coffee shop and there are scores of them in seville Is a noisy stamping ground humanity ch choked lilied from early in the afternoon until long after midnight indeed one may pass at any time during the day or nl night ait and see gesticulating knots of nien men crowded about cup tables talking talking |