Show war production board tells how to dress for victory victorya 9 waste eliminated through freezing of current styles men and women designers and manufacturers seem to have agreed already t that hat the war production boards orders covering the use of materials in the manufacture of clothing are I 1 not so bad the average citizen in wartime will bear no resemblance whatever to the piti pitiably ably C clothed figure pictured in recent cartoons the changes will not be noticeable for a while as they do not affect the garments alrea already dyo manufactured for spring and summer wear and even in the fall they will not offer any great departure from present fashions as drastic style change is one of the things the is most eager to avoid the purpose of freezing current styles is to eliminate waste both by cutting down the amount of material used and by discouraging the tendency to discard clothes that are not the latest style OUT our count rys needs will set the styles from now on and it will be patriotic to conform to them but dont throw w away that dress just because it h has ss pockets or pleats wear it out and dont rush to the stores and do panic shopping there will be enough for everyone if no one takes more than his share hoarding wool or silk is as bad as hoarding sugar or rubber simplification of styles and colors of sweaters and other garments worn during the first world war reduced the quantity of wool used in these textiles by one third enough to provide cloth for uniforms also eliminated during that era were styles of rubber toot foot wear shoe colors were reduced from an approximate hundred to only three black white and a single shade of tan result A saying saving in leather dyes boxes shipping space labor and transportation por tation through conservation and prevention measures the order is expected to make possible the production of at least 15 per cent more garments out of the same yardage some conception of economies may be obtained from the fact that the elimination of cuffs from some pairs of trousers will make available enough wool cloth to manufacture suits men affected least men and women alike are affected by the orders but the men will probably feel the pinch a little less as their styles have never been subject to as radical changes as have the the new trend merely keeps them in line with the more conservative styles of f past pait years men in wartime will wear suits stripped of patch pockets fancy backs belts and pleats the absence of cuffs on the trousers will be no n 0 more noticeable than on military uniforms while restrictions on width will affect only the extra wide w ide trouser styles shortening of the inseam will not result in shorter trousers but will account merely for th the three inches ordinarily used uselin in m making kin g cuffs trousers usually are delivered from the manufacturer to the retailer i without cuffs and are finished for the customer after purchase the order forbids any person to tailor cuffs upon trousers and this prohibition involving severe penalties applies all the way from the manufacturer retailer and custom tailor to the consumers wife this means that many trousers made before the order went into ef fec twill be long enough to permit cuffs other trousers made under the new regulations stillman still maj may possess enough yardage for cuffs d due ue to variations in customers sizes the law expressly prohibits prohibit a any such us use e of the extra material arrangements have been made for the american amer c an red cross cros 3 to act a t as a centra clearing agency receiving the wool clips obtained from cutting off the cull cuff material and returning them for re processing from the trousers now on hand material for suits could be obtained in this way according to the specifications listed the consumers wife on the other hand will be left more or less free to uscher own judgment when she makes clothes tor for herself so tar far no restrictions have been placed on pattern rii makers akers women too will be tree free to wear what they can buy it will not be necessary lor for them to take them the complete list of restrictions s strict ions with them when purchasing apparel for whatever is tor for sale in the stores Is patriotic to buy the stores and the manufacturers are responsible for compliance women are watching without a tear as frills and furbelows fur belows are slashed from the fashion fashio fi picture deprived of voluminous skirts billowing sleeves flowing drapes and most of the little feminine touches so dear to their hearts they are ready to wear and to enjoy wearing fashions that are low in priorities high in patriotism inasmuch as the decreed streamlined simplicity is not just a mere style note but a federal law the american womans comans victory wardrobe will include the following essential restrictions on all garments producing fashions to wear as a badge of honor dresses manufactured after april 9 cannot be sold with a jacket I 1 bolero cape coat or redingote at a unit price no double material yokes no fabrics which have been reduced from normal width or length by allover all over tucking shirring pleat ing except tor for minor trimmings interlinings Inter linings containing any virgin wool or reprocessed wool cannot bo be woven after april 9 no wool evening wraps plaid sleeves cannot be cut on the bias no dress sleeves wider than li 14 inches in circumference for a size 16 proportionate sleeve measurements for other sizes no over avei skirts or aprons for evening ev dresses 10 10 y 0 1 1 I il K 1 S F W J the dress to the left in the above illustration does not conform to the specifications ordered by the war production board itis it Is out tor for the duration the dress to the right with is ifs cuff less sleeves 1 narrow belt 2 and only slightly shirred sherred waistline 3 Is in accordance with the specifications under the new ruling normal fullness is permissible but bat not allover all over tucking or shirring or any other unnecessary use of material in trimming clothing manufacturers can still get good fabrics suits and coats in general will be i made ot of softer but serviceable fabrics employing larger quantities of reprocessed or reused wool cotton and rayon mixtures although hard bard fabrics wear well and ret retain ain their shape they are apt to become soiled and shiny more quickly than soft woolens the government rement has asked woolen manufacturers to weave fabrics that will give the same elements of wear and i shape retention as aa previously the consumer divis division points out that the opanas set price ceilings at the wholesale level on wool products from froin the pulled stage through worsted yams bams shoppers should quest question lor unreasonable markups markuis over the retail counter before purchasing they should consult the label which the law says must be attached to each garment garmen tand and find out the amount of new reprocessed or reused wool and the amount of other fi fibers bersIa in the fabric evelyn carolls Caroll 8 the army and navy have it written for or charm magazine tells tell very svery simply the feminine contributions to the caisse cause the te silk that once was two thread hose castex that once was your girdle the zipper that used to connect your clothes i cannot i jump priorities hurdle peroxide that once made your tresses gold curlers that made them wavy hairpins Hair pins that had such a good strong hold now go to the army and navy navy lipstick cases are ammunition corset stays travel with tanks not a single complaint nor suspicion of boarders hoar ders will damage our ranks no cuffs patch pockets it flaps aps or belts on slacks no hoods or with blou blouses only YOne one patch pocket per blou blouse in a series of amendments to the th 0 original order covering women 11 clothes has decreed the following the top of a two piece dress Is required to conform with the length restriction of jackets the P prohibition against cuffs on slacks is extended to riding breeches jodhpurs ski pants play suits 1 overalls and coveralls A jacket jacke t may have a two piece back with a belt attached providing th the e belt Is stitched on in such a way that there is not more than a half inch overlay of wool cloth on wool cloth at the upper end and the lower side of the belt in the original order a belt was not permitted on a wool jacket the maximum sweep for a size 16 suit skirt Is 78 inches with corresponding sweeps for different sizes bridal gowns maternity dresses burial gowns and robes and vestments as required by the rules of religious orders are not subject to any style or measurement curtailment special exemption Is granted to persons ot of abnormal sizes patch pockets are prohibited when they involve woolen garments that is placing woolen on woolen on a rayon or silk garment patch pockets are permissible all cuffs cuff sare are prohibited on woolen garments clothes for fall the order will not affect clothes for this spring and summer m most ost of w which are made already restrictions on woolen garments will apply to the production of most fall and w winter inter garments restrictions on cotton rayon and other materials do not become effective until june 19 when summer clothes production a should hould be ended restrictions on existing retailers stocks of ensembles will go into effect august 17 unlike the mens conservation order which relates to wool only limitation order 85 65 as the apparel restrictions are technically known applies to all except transparent fabrics this Is how the average man will look when manufacturers begin to turn out the wartime styles in quantity probably by next fall some stores already are carrying M mens en wear lem embodying bodying certain of these thes changes single breasted topcoats and overcoats will be from two to tour four inches shorter than present models also shortened will be the double breasted styles but bles which use wool only on one side are not subject to the simplification order overcoats will be less full contributing to the effect of simple tailoring that well dressed men have always favored av ored suits and overcoats he will wear conservatively cut suits and coats made of softer but service serviceable able fabrics woven from larger quantities s of reused or reprocessed wool cotton and rayon mixtures shirts his shirts will tend to be lighter in color but they will be among the last to feel the chlorine shortage sheets pillowcases pillow cases and underwear of unbleached cotton will appear long before white shirts take on a yellowish tinge socks the average mans socks may be of cotton or rayon instead of wool or silk and he will select them from a narrower range of colors and patterns hats flats his hat bat may be the felt he has worn before but fur and wool felt mixtures probably will be more common during the summer he may sport one ot of the straw substitutes tit utes visca cellophane or cel celta ta tal fal A panama from ecuador will still be available in the higher price brackets shoes his shoes will be conservative serva tive in style and will not show off the thick soles expensive leathers and color varieties of peacetime the restrictions on both mens and clothes are not so drastic as they may seem at first glance A nationwide nation wide survey found that the american woman wears a jacket today that varies from 23 to 27 1 inches in length the order strikes a medium of 25 inches pleats in skirts are permitted provided v the quantity of material used in the skirt comes within the restrictions strict ions that is if a woman does not care to have a skirt ag as full an permitted under the order she ma use up the difference in P pals ats |