| Show FANCIES AND FADS OF FASHION by julia bottock A f j ai ip V 4 4 n visiting toilette of embroidered pongee the painstaking and patient labor of faraway china enriched some yards arcq of fine pongee with embroidery the fabric was lit in the natural unbleached color of the silk and the embroidered moral pattern was in the same tint exactly so the material lent itself perfectly to the making 0 a luxurious suit it Is the last word ord in elegance someone lio understands the needs of europe and america and is fa millar with current styles must have hae directed the labor cf those oriental needlework artists the embroidered patterns are placed in the best maw man 7 ner for good effect on skirt and coat and the amount of material nicely calculated for present fashions fasli ions the skirt Is cut in seven gores and these were sewed together and the skirt hemmed before the embroidery was done this allows the pattern to run uninterrupted about the skirt the embroidered flowers almost cover the front gore and are extended part way up on the gores at each side of the back breadth the masses of embroidery are joined by sprays of small leaves and blossoms and lines of dots hotst that it extend entirely round the sh skirt 1 rt T alie b ie gores are liffie ln ld lit in deep inverted plaits at the top except across the back where the fullness is gathered under a short belt the coat is made with a panel at the ack and a moderately flaring pep lurn lum set iet on oil at the sides and front ein embroidered broi brol dered sprays appear on the lower part of the lie panel and on oil each side of the peplum at the front it Is lined with bright green satin embroidered bands of the pongee are combined with this satin for the cuffs and coli lar and pongee and satin make the 1 neom buttons that are oct act on the cout coat in groups of three at each side of the front A narrow vest of black satin covered with embroidery in gold thread with rose green and blue silk curries carries out the oriental suggestion as a finish for the coat such it a suit stilt will prove prote a source of satisfaction to any owner and more especially to the woman who looks best beat in tailored styles it Is a visiting toilette which may be used for many other things as the informal dinner for example k 4 less simple styles xa ss i in n coiffures Coif fures hairdressing Is not so simple as it was a i few months ago because the coiffures coif fures of today tire are dressed with waved hair but the nent neatness ness of those plain styles was their chief charm and the hairdresser Is culled called upon to preserve that feature in the curled and waved coiffures coif fures that engage ills attention now straight hair may be becomingly dressed for it pretty and youthful face face even so it in ia prettier when it catches the light in v a ves and ns as for curls they have heen been the ibe admiration of mankind for ages they have returned and there are several pretty fashions in wearing them younger women tire lire wearing the hair waved and combed tack back in the ina manner tiner of a small pompadour with a psyche knot at the back in this style the ears tire are almost covered and there ire re a few curled locks about the fore tend tead ta the knot may be fiade ande up of several soft puffs and very short curls Ilo wever wavy and curly straggling ends or strands of hair blowing about the th eface face are not to be tolerated the hair net or nr invisible pins must hold them in place another pretty style for young worn wom en particularly shows the hair colled coiled at the nape of the neck as in the illustration there are several clever ways of managing the coll coil depending upon the abundance of hair which it must dispose of it Is pinned closer to the head than in the psyche or other styles where here the coll coil Is higher in this the hair Is slightly waved and Is brought hack back loosely as in the preceding bild lild coiffure for older women or those that find I 1 a high coiffure most becoming the hair Is waved or marcellea mar celled nil fill around the head and the knot or coll coil Is brought well forward on top in this and in the styles already described three or more short curls are pinned in about the knofer knot or coll coil in the matter of hairdressing women can afford to be somewhat bome what independent an individual style which suits the face of the wearer better than any other Is not to be abandoned to follow it a fashion women who have very long and abundant hair must nearly always dispose of it in coiffures coif fures of their own invention |