Show FURS ir T i BE IN EVI EVIDENCE new york ril once upon a time the itoman warriors pulled over their i aads tho shaggy hides of antina animals Is as I 1 hey ley advanced on the enemy they and iad the lie primitive childlike belief that the sight of the atil animals mals would frighten the opposing side such Is tile the history of the grenadier caps worn by tile the army mid and such is probably the inspiration of thu the new warlike clothes invented in int hoso time of war Th esware arc worn in paris or rather they were worn at atif the paris openings says ft a ft ishlon writer witter they have arrived in this country unit and their acceptance cep tance Is debatable there are women who will wear anything new regardless ok of Us its effect on their appearance and these women may in ay make the new fabrics fashionable at first glance they are rather terrifying rif ying one lins lias it 11 slight creeping of feeling for ilip opposing side ide to the legions of caesar even a stouthearted warrior would linie hare to face a grent great rush of oc animal skins moving to ward jilin ha with ravid rapidity gravidity ity that that will t be P tile the situation that must he be faced by every verj stouthearted stout hearted man this winter if these shaggy in materials ate rials take first place 0 in fashion to the observer they are tile the lending leading phase of the seii sea sonis sons output they rhey tire are pure stick to their trade and those who do cun can reap ti lt hat harvest vest questions that women bask ask it ts Is to the fabrics therefore that the great greaf majority of women la is it serge they aski ask or jersey bersby smooth fabrics fabrica or rou rough ghones ones does midnight blue bills hold its own Ts Is oxford gray grayl again in fashion are evening gowns light brilliant or somber in coloring does docs taffeta continual conti nuel will satin be good these are quotations not imaginations they are ask asked edby by the swirling title tide of women wild who are trying to make every dollar realize its full balue value today they have taken bobart to heart the twin doctrines of conservation and economy nou non essential Is aver over the doorway of evary homp home and in the heart of every worker we must buy for wo we must bust be clothed and we to keep in service those who have served us but wi wemusa not buy idly nor foolishly nor with an eye to our selfish comforts rather than the good i of the majority to buy the material that Is butof fisli fashion loo ts Is wasting money there are those who will kry cry aloud lu in protest against such a statement but it ls quite true wo we gain galfi nothing by giving ourselves a new cause M use for foi discontent when it Is as easy eutsy to be inthe in tha to z on the left Is a severe coat suit for autumn street usage made of black anc gray oxford cloth the coat Is the accepted length has pockets on the hips shows a surplice vest of white linen and has a belt of itsie run through an enamel harness buckle on the right is a cape coat for rough weather of midnight blue velours with black and white shepherds plaid velours there ls is a deep border of the checks tat at the hem a wide collar t of it and bindings at the armholes arm I 1 holes ly a french invention and even it if they are not accepted in their entirety of shagginess they will undoubtedly pace pave the way for an an immediate output of silky sallly materials with rough surfaces the first of these materials was called called and was invented lute late last winter I 1 think and then used asa substitute for fur M magnificent as well as shaggy ilie majority of those who dip deep alep 1 lminto f into the sources of fashions and fabrics insist that the entire output of these a materials Is due to the recrudescence of monkey fur that liok however vever would not explain the other fabrics which are used in the new french gowns that are arc arriving in n this country and which have hunting sc scenes magnificently ornamental on a tark ric background jenny use uses s this material for panels and for large pieces of evening trucks frocks then there are other fabrics which show birds and birds plumage as the ornamental design but these allese a are re of menor brilliancy as against the animal fabrics which not only toss about the rep and burnt orange boranic balcof hair of monkeys find orang outings but als othe manes such as never L aisted on landor sen sea these are made from five arid elx six in inch ch strands of curled curle d silky illey flass interwoven en with metals metal the bird fabri fabrics csare are called calle Ol sella and the burnt orange hadis hl des are area called orang boutang in other gowns especially cleill ori one from bubloz there misused Is used a new material called tolson dor chich menns means the golden fleece still still another material and farid the laye icye it ie e all because bebau s e it Is the most practical for american usage Is the lil of a medieval coat of mall ahls I 1 fabric fa hric niong alongside side iho shaggy ones akis seems to be cultured am modern 1 fi I am dwelling la afif detail on on all ali these f fabrics of the hour beti I 1 believe th that atthe the great masses of women women over flits are going into the shops ships vi vry y i to bu buy y materials for their li new 1 clothes every woman does docs not lave have nn an expensive dressi dressmaker pal er f pr r fl trat department store to furnish I 1 her costumes for tile the season such site I 1 tricks tit of fortunes fortune favor ont bonfy the lew few the war nar has brought about an immense of home dressmaking for all the spam seamstresses in the world cannat po into factories facto iles earn turge large balvo some borne of chont lcm acm must fashion as out of it it shows efficiency good judgment and a level head boad to walk in the right path ath the right path to those who inquire as to what Is 19 the right path therefore it Is ase to say that there Is an undoubted tendency toward the imitation of animal hides in n fabrics but that one should go warily among such no cities les the main truth Is that wery very smooth materials have ha e lost their savor arid and that increasing roughness Is prophesied it is quite possible that these new fashions in fabrics will keep serge out of first place one finds it offered offee d by the best tailors and dressmakers but already aomen women look a bit askance at it when they see piled bp up against 1 lt the new fabrics that represents represent 9 Va a different epoch in weaving As tor taffeta it seems to bereft be left in the ahe cold itis it Is used by such arbet s as mme ame of paris and her followers in this country for young youn garls girls but noi not for foi women and for evening not for thedac the day hours it asin raz rich light blue that it Is most frequently employed and it Is then trimmed with silver flowers and white monkey fur there els Is a dearth of satin it Is too early to say w whether hether it will be entirely abandoned in this coun country tri but at the moment mo merit itis not liot represented in the ille now new french frocks in the generous in manner annei of other days all the designers flie are lavish with velvet as in thi the medieval days and i it Is used in the picturesque italian n fashion ornamented superb embroideries brol broide derles ries of metal and silk so bo far tape tho e richly rac h dij decorated vel vets as well as the plain we aae ve are kept for the eye eyewink but there are anan many tobacco brown and leather lea ther shades rind and dark blue ones used for the afternoon there are also leather shades by the way v in a heavy of satin which looks like cloth find Is trimmed ith wool embroidery these leather tones ire are bark ening back to medieval days das and to those hose centuries when spain led the world in drs dress its at france does docs today it was then that tha dpn spain in made her cordova rind morocco blo rocco leather fardous famous copyright aks 17 S byrbe by the mcclure New spa per syndicate |