Show american h wealth and gay clothes new york pails carls has bus sent her clothes over li here rp we ve have viewed I 1 hem ticy they have been ean acceptable in large m ensure measure and approve approved d of jn in full measure and at et ob observes serves a prominent fashion writer we vo dont understand why they should be as they vre lire they are a somersault from what has ha been paris has preached denture demureness ness econ economy oiny simplicity und and modesty iler her cloths claths have hac beci symbolic of tit the tidal wave vae of depression that swept over oer lier her spirit since 1014 1914 the reason for the change do you sou realize why paris hassent lias sent us over such brIll brilliant funt alluring rrell rich clothes it Is because american money has burst upon her with etli such force that she has gone up lip I 1 in it it a balloon figuratively speaking france settled herself down for demure clothes on tile lay day of the and has kept to this contract with 11 herself compelling the rest of the world woi id to dress Ilkew likewise lse hut in autumn of 1017 there burst upon her astonished vision the vanguard of america they were not cominer claf buyers they were not cosmopolitan multi who ito aped aled the I 1 french re 1 woman they the were wore the alie true impre ite it e ofa of a country whose vanes and resources france had oni only v guessed tit at boys bos in blue Ila flannel tinel sailor milts had bunk bank recounts accounts of ten dollars each women vo illen in cited cross uniforms could afford ive five hundred dollars per pei gown gon if they it bed privates in khaki paid their heir blus bills without itliong looking at their change canteen workers ork rr hid under tinder their collars collais strings string of earls worth fifty thou thousand dollars all these aniel americans icarus laughed and went to the theater tind and ordered expensive dinners and jollek with the the confusing part about till this situation Is that america Is getting into the spirit of economy and somberness that paris had it year sear ngo ago our reformers preach uniformity in clothes our economists preach conservation our beg beff it us to go about in black without smiles and turning our lead heads from HIP wiles of pleasure us as though we were arv early puritans chemise robe among the new evening gowns front from france this spring the twelfth century tunic is as frequently seen ns its in t the he treat gowns but the effect of the two Is strongly differentiated for the evening the designers use it a narrow primitive slip of satin or metallic cloth the latter preferred over this slip drops a much idar wider more voluminous transparent robe ii it Is cut like it a chemise it hns has a half ow decol I 1 the sleeves usually cover the tunic of black and white figured foulard over a narrow slip of white crepe de chine the short narrow skirt Is finished at the hem with black fringe note unusual collar entire arm but tire are put to fall half a foot away from it tind thu the entire effect Is one of exquisite veiling doucet does tills this tit in the most brilliant manner and hu he shows ills his competitors peti tors something in the way n of un in unter slip making it 11 corlet cor let mid tin alia a short skirt of soft gold ti astle which gives a far more graceful undulating movement of tile body bod when heu it Is seen beneath the transparent there are chemise gowns of rare lace seldom in white alte but in lory ivory tints and also in cloudy gray these thes tire are dropped over a surn slim u of ts sue silver and steel 11 as 8 well ill as gold and tile the note of color Is given by an extraordinary ash it may lie be of chinese blue taffeta of splendid chinese brocade of deep gold and black brocaded ribbon and one end of it always trails down the back panel and adds to the brilliancy of the sit short ort train we have demure capes made of and serge which are asbery as as those worn by the li italian tallan police tin and those ease caro for tile of distinguished clothes can put one of these theRe a cpr vrn vr n slightly worn kora k ora and much used frock thereby enclosing an old friend in n new frame und presenting n brave front to it world that Is not too critical in those these war days but parts does not stop nt at these demure capes her ecstatic mood shows itself in fit and exquisite garments called capes which tire are f fasli ash toned for afternoon and evening wear they tire arc made in chinese Clil nese colors in slavic tones of statin and and metal embroidery lionie sometimes times they c 11 J gown of black satin short sleeveless sleeve lesa and thin the sash which ties at the side is finished with large gold tassel at hem of skirt Th the scarf of black lace and tulle with band of gold lace at each end slips under belt at right and Is loosely thrown over left shoulder r are arc maroon colored faille lined with light blue taffeta arid and worn over it a gray gown of crepe chopo IQ do cliine or satin and what the prophets whisper there Is no disputing the fact that french women lime yielded to the american desire to wear short skirts 01 on I 1 the street and tile the skirts in these new clothes nie are both narrow and short the women who appon appeared red on the street ifft in them without leggings ov or high shoes mc have created unpleasant criticism which should compel them to change their style stile the smart women run it a legging or it a cloth top boot well up tip under tho the hem of these short skirts and the effect Is military ami pleasing but tit at the very moment that we tire are accepting with tins this continued style stile of short tind atil narrow garments tile the prophets say that the he real french skirts are growing longer and the smart american le signers say the fame they are arc making the garni garments ent z slim without using tin nn inch of nc surplus material hut but they are arc dropping them to the ankles oi omitting nitting the lie leggings and the high boots tint and coming back ji 6 the flat heeled pumps with broad ribbon bows across the three or four of the alie best houses in new nev york emphasize these skirts skirt and who tire arc tired of the brevity of t the e skirts we have worn worn for years tire are accepting this new type of garment with more than the usual enthus enthusiasm lusin if it had fullness it would be impossible for street usage mit its narrowness j and the slight bias line lit at tho the sides that comes comee from the material being pulled backward anil and upward ugwa rd ninke make it it a pleasing picture on oil the street and an artistic contrast to lo the prevailing garment miles of tulle liven hven when dirance arance li rance starts out to be demure slie site changes her mind ind and gets get a little fling of into the most somber gown gow n for example site blie makes a black satin restaurant frock in the style of the eleventh century with tit the long chemise the alie slight girdling about the hips and the half low well and good but she Is weary of the binck surface by pic UK time line slie it get gets to the lie armholes arm arun holes hole and ih alx neckline so she swings in fit a pair ot hunting floating chinese sleeves of jade green tulle edged with jet and slie she winds a narrow scarf of tulle once around the lie nock neck pulls its fullness one once over tit the chin and weights its ends with will jet tas sels when alien green used kings blue or wine color Is chosen chon every french designer used what vital ahe sho could of nt colored tulle there must have been a competition over there as to who could reduce tire the amount of tulle in france most quickly one designer took it into tier her head to onist white collars and un use ns as a substitute tulle wrapped about the neck and led fled in a bow this fashion Is already considered quite smart avei over here in restaurants for luncheons find and for any nunar where tho the tint hat IF Is retained tain edthe the tulle which covers it forms forma this collar and sometimes drops io in long ends from the nape of the neck to the knees copyright 1918 2918 by the mcclure newspaper syndicate |