| Show perus capital gets new dress lima ancient city of the Pi Is transformed into modern metropolis Pim pared by 0 society 8 div service Wash lowton D anu demolishing EMO LISHING here lie building D demolishing there In installing mailing modern we water ter and sewerage systems tearing up rough age worn cobblestones putting down smooth modern concrete and asphalt in their stead opening up new dew highways both t to 0 the mountains anil and the sea and developing motor routes to the outlying regions of the plain thus the makers of 0 new lima are transforming the peruvian capital city of the Pi the older portion of the city as well as the newer region which circumscribes cum scribes it Is sharing in the modernization erni n true the older section Is and must remain an area of one way streets for its thoroughfares are so narrow that even street cars must observe the one way law likewise the sidewalks are ar e so lacking in elbow room that only two people can pass one another at a time and the one on the outside must keep a close watch lest lie he be struck by a passing trolley old and new fight for supremacy the blue necked turkey buzzards blizzards have lost their role as the off official lelal scavengers the oxcart ox cart has glien ghen place largely to the motor truck the old barouche has abandoned the streets to the modern automobile and the patient donkey Is making his last stand even Pi stern old palace Is feeling the urge toward tion in days gone by there was no street in lima that had a single name throughout its length each block had its own particular designation the two streets that lead from the plaza san martin to th the e national palace are six blocks long iong each possessed six different names one for each block the municipal authorities wanted to to change all this and gave each street a single designation for its entire length the one they called the giron de la a union and the other the giron garabaya Ca cut but the populace would have none of it the man who did business on the northwest side of the plaza dp de armas annas still wanted to have hae his store sale of shoes in a peruvian market on and the one who ho held forth on the next block still insisted he be was doing business on mercaderes Merca deres and they continue to do so consequently the giron de la in union Is swallowed up by the several calles which compose it these may be named without mod ern day rhyme or reason and they certainly are without alphabetical or other indication of their sequences but the people cling to them despite desalt wh whatever ateer confusion it costs the post office however much it may perplex the visitor and whatever harvest it may bring the tail drivers how the system works many interesting stories are told illustrating bow this mysterious system works one concerns a stranger who hailed balled a text tail in calle la merced and asked the chauffeur to drive him to Ba quIJano meinte veinte cinco canco the driver did not bat an eye but drove like jehu up jesus nazareno skidded on two wheels into giron carabaza Oa Ca raced around plaza san martin and whirled up through boza landl landing n g his shaken passenger at the address given on the same street but simply in the next block from where he started I 1 the lame came Mer Merea deras tells us of the day when ben that block was the wall street of lima and banos or the public letter writers who were sheltered under the portals on the west side of the plaza calle mantas proclaims the square where the ladles ladies of perus golden past spent their husbands substance in riotous purchase of shawls homes puns indian textiles and lingerie the history of limas past Is written N in her streets in ID names that the municipality IOLA lon has wanted to wipe out la in favor of 0 through designations and numbered blocks but the people of the city cling to their streets with a devotion that will not perti penult alt convenience veni ence to triumph over romantic ties with the past in wandering about the old city one comes upon many an architectural rel lc ic of the days dats of the viceroys vice roys but among all of these do none n e Is more im than the monastery of san francisco there one may be ushered into a porcelain garden where tho th artistic at csc tiles t ot of t the h e ceol cloister S ter compete OL liete with the living flowers that boon bi hoep li IL the earth they no one ne has bag dwerl dw crl more bore beaucl an fn fully the effect of this Por celal n garden than mr F P F farrar of the west ort ot leader iler ike says Is it a porcelain garden a ceramic bort bor der of springtime where the blues of delphinium and lupine the yellow of eyu and the gold of colchicum the creamy white of ara arabs a and the malves mauves of blend into the fresh foliage of the overhanging trees tree and the azure of the new washed skies the charm of the story of the origin of f this porcelain garden almost equals equal t obe the beauty of the ceramic triumph itself on a november morning IQ in ag a vast crowd had gathered la in the plaza de armas annas for there wa was to be a public hanging and these events were e roman noman holidays for or the th populace the public crier had bad announced the warrantable and lloyal addlen cla of this city of the kings has con damned to suffer a shameful death 0 on n the gallows alonso godiner Godine 7 native of guadalajara in spain for the mur der of marta villoslada without fear of judgment human or divine let liln who did so pay the penalty I 1 sentence Is to be read in the presence of all lest they meet a like endt endl let justice be donel done came a reprieve the condemned man had taken his stand beneath the noose and the hangman was nervously adjusting the fatal k knot n 0 L S suddenly ud il e nl y a m monk pi pushed i s h e d his tt ay t through h r 0 ug h t the i e t throng h 0 ng eli m t e 1 the gal lows platform and handed a arch ment to the captain of the guard after the latter had read it the two engaged in a moment of animated conversation after which the padre led the condemned man away and into the portals of 0 the monastery of san francisco the crowd disappointed hung about the tl Fl azuela de san francisco discussing this strange overthrow of justice and berating those thosa aho vho had denied them their holiday but later the reason for reprieve became known that morning the condemned man had made what he thought would be his last confession on earth to the prior of the monastery ile he said that he was a potter by trade and that he hid had learned the art bothi both of making and setting tiles years before dona catalina Cata llna huanqi had brought from spain a magnificent collection of tiles tor for the decoration of the new cloisters at san francisco but neither plan nor a tile setter hai hadt come with them and lima had notile setters so for bears the tiles had been piled up in a corner of the monastery many were stolen and morn more were broken would providence ever open a way for their setting here seemed to be the answer the prior saw an opportunity to let the man who had murdered a domant in a drunken brawl repent his bis sins in a lifelong task of setting these splendid tiles so he be hastened to the viceroy to implore the pardon of the murderer and the viceroy a descendant of the berglas Bor glas seeing poetic justice in remitting the penalty of the scaffold and imposing a task of service that would require a lifetime granted the commutation of sentence one can see gee today the wisdom of that act of mercy tempered justice alonso godinez was a true artist who loved his work and threw his soul into it today the walls blossom with pictures which in their mellowness richness and seductive beauty rival those of the alhambra itself and it Is doubtful it if outside of spain there Is to be found a finer example of porcelain entablature in the heyday of its art than here lima Is peculiarly a city ot of churches with some 70 in its limits and with neatly nearly four centuries of outstanding ecclesiastical tradition behind them the people are much ghea to buying religious objects the cathedral Is a magnificent structure much larger than pizarro built but still not soi sa grand as the one erected during the early years of the regime and destroyed by the great earthquake that wiped out callao tile the nearby seaport the high altar Is of massive silver construction in the chapel of the virgin Is a celebrated image pre presented Rented by the emperor charles V of spain and in the chapel arcediano Arce dinno an original painting attributed to murillo representing jesus and veronica here rests a glass and marble casket which Is most interesting of all tor for it contains the half mummy half ake skeleton leton reputed to be the rein remains ains of the great conqueror fashionable hats hat taboo the attire f for or church occasions Is X perhaps the most conservative in the new world even those women who dress in the latest parisian modes elsewhere put on their plain black mantillas cantillas man tillas when going to church la in some congregations those who come in fashionable headgear are told politely to remove them and substitute their mantillas cantillas man tillas before they are allowed to be seated amon among the fine old residences ot of lima one of the most impressively beautiful Is the famous palace of tor re tagle once the home of the marquises of that name but now the headquarters of the ministry of foreign relations the city of the kings long has been famous for its brilliant social life with a constant succession of luncheons teas dinners dances adas and receptions nearly four centuries of wealth leisure and opportunity have written their impress of culture on the descendants of the nobility and official classes of the colonial regime most of the higher class residents so to speak board with nith their cooka th latter are given allowances each day ant and out of that are expected to keep their masters tn til bles up to the exacted standard and to kerp the market ruen men with ahnin they deal happy through gratuities doled out to them |
