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Show byways and backwaters By Pat Whitfield meat dishes in a price range from approximately twelve to -twenty dollars, depending on what you order. Always, the hot croissants, the superb salads with panoply of dressings. Ever the small touches stark white pottery gleaming against glowing glow-ing dark wood. Simple blue and white checked table linens. Straw flowers and silk flowers sharing the same straw basket on your table. Bountiful green plants trailing their vines up walls and over beams, framing mini-paned windows overlooking overlook-ing rolling lawns. For a bit of pampering for the experience of being a guest in the truest sense, try La Caille at Quail Run. A superb dining experience ... and bon appetit! "The first time I went there we had a great meal but it was really homey country like," my friend declared, describing her first visit to La Caille, one of the more outstanding restaurants restaur-ants on the Wasatch Front. "We enjoyed the food and service so well that we knew we'd go back often, But the next time, it was completely changed." chan-ged." She went on, "From plain old rustic, it became French rustic, but not a bit of service or fairly groan with multiple courses. An excellent soup followed by a crisp salad, both accompanied by warm Basque bread. Several steaming vegetables vege-tables and a choice of entrees leave little room for piping hot coffee and a piquant dessert that follows. Tuesday through Saturday, the dining room opens at 6 p.m. to reveal a varied menu to suit every palate. Seafood, poultry, flavor suffered with the change," she concluded. French it is, unabashedly. From the massive iron gates guarding its entry, along the winding drive meandering through stands of trees where guinea hens and peacocks roam freely to the nouveau French country manor where superlative superla-tive meals are served, La Caille is all charm and graciousness, coupled with superb dining. No detail is spared to preserve the authenticity, the transfer of stone France-country manse to the Wasatch foothills. Knickered footmen with Errol Flynn-type flowing shirts whisk your car from the circular entry drive to the parking lot that's just out of sight. Country wrenches in velvet bodices, tightly laced and delicately be-ribboned, guide you to warm fires in winter or to the tranquil swan pond in summer to await your table. Sunday brunches are a popular feature at La Caille. With a fixed price of $8.50, the menu spans such traditionals as Eggs Benedict to a house specialty of trout, served with great panache. A brunch begins with hot croissants and red grapes cascading from a silver pedastel. No hurry in these brunches since graciousness is the keynote. Service is subtle and efficient, but inobtrusively caring. . Sunday and Monday evenings, even-ings, this refuge just a bit beyond the turnoff to Brighton hosts Basque style meals with a fixed price of $10.50 a person. True to the bountiful Basque dining tradition, the boards |