Show paris 1 I J fashions in karasos Pa dust coats and brockl frfd COAT OF LACE WITH ACCOR DION PLAITING june in parasols PARIS and hatkins deserve col dumns to themselves ther smartest en tout cas covers show huge spots and graduated stripes of satin on plain grounds green and white Is a popular mixture and navy and scarlet are also in vogue the handles of some of the parasols are beautifully jeweled either in the form of initials or queer beasts while others have lovely old enamel tops A parasol handle makes a charming wedding gift some of the more simple ones are of ivory in the shape of flowers take the parasol of the moment how extremely attractive it Is with its ridiculously long handle a la pompadour very often In crusted with rare gems and its shade of chene silk inserted with medallions of lace and jeweled trimming the simplest parasol of all which promises to have the greatest share of popularity this season has a plain silk cover with rows of ribbon woven in black for preference on a light ground in graduated widths and a long plain colored handle this should perhaps be called the en tout cas of the moment it Is certainly very useful then many of the hatkins are really costly very fine enamel work being used taking beautiful lights and shades these form acceptable gifts either as weird beasts in precious stones floral designs or large flat pieces of mother of pearl studded with two or three colored stones the ordinary hatpin of utility Is seldom worn by the elegante mondaine mond alne who loves to show her exclusive taste in possessing unique accessories one of the happiest ideas in this summers fashions Is the race or dust coat of indian silk it seems indeed aa it at last we have arrived at the perfect dust coat and not only the most practical but the most fit looking and elegant I 1 saw recently a dust and race coat full length and charmingly designed and was delighted with it it looked practical elegant and picturesque and while talking I 1 of these I 1 might remark on a lovely park driving coat of Shang tung ellk the coarser species that had unique and lovely embroideries of blue and green and gold I 1 think this coat might serve for evening wear as well I 1 would mention another particularly good coat a three quarter coat of sun ray plaited voile trimmed with real cluny lace which can be had in black and in cream color and in gray and a few pastel shades there Is a coat of palest gray face cloth with the picturesque cape effect pretty white silk cord ornaments finishing the fronts and back another coat of real braid guipure Is daintily frilled with white chiffon and applied florally with panne and silk this coat the other would serve for either day or evening wear now to tell you of some charming frocks I 1 have before me a vision of a toilet vain I 1 have tried to think out in a cheaper make of muslin it la in painted gauze and from the kneed to the feet la a deep border consisting of a trellis work of woven green ribbons and pink roses much be flounced underneath to give the necessary this trellis work also appears on each side of the bolero bodice which short at the back over a fascinating green spotted muslin blouse finished with a draped waistband of taffeta this costume la completed by the most exquisite hat composed entirely of green leaves over a foundation of tucked pink chiffon finished with two black velvet strings and a black rose resting on the hair while another rose held the strings in place on the bodice with this Is carried a perfectly plain long handled black parasol with a curious green lizard apparently patently ly crawling up the stick there la a new make of silk cluny lace which Is very effective as a trimming on the plain voile frocks and Is not at all expensive A charming costume I 1 have seen was in deep rose pink voile with a bolero of ecru cluny lace finished with a silk fringe this bolero really formed a cape and collar in one with a pelerine effect and cleeves ending at the elbows this frock was eminently bulled to race meetings country gatherings and similar occasions and although it was smart it was very quiet and simple the skirt only just touched the ground and was finished with five deep folds at the hem and about three plaits on each hip the blouse bodice under the lace bolero consisted of tiny box plaits on each side worn with a plain fawn leather belt the whole was surmounted by a neat black straw toque for morning wear coarse embroidered linen blouses in all colors are much in vogue with the plainest of skirts to match sometimes with these blouses the short gilted kilted skirt Is worn and looks extremely well there Is a great deal to be said in favor of linen lanon de sole and another fabric which resembles a soft canvas of silky texture some of the linen baleros boleros are heavily embroidered while others are decorated with coarse guipure and silk cassels tassels tas sels glaring contrasts in these summer fabrics are rather de rigueur but they must have been carefully thought out with a view to producing a harmony coarse embroideries are certainly a feature of season and irish laces are tremendously used on muslin and crepe d chine fete frocks lace 0 a finer kind Is used filet and blond makes being as popular as the very fine cambric embroideries nothing Is prettier tor gala wear than crepe de chine or de sole in white very pale pink and green trimmed with motifs of exceedingly fine laca and little knots of baby velvet ribbon in pale shades I 1 think buttons are still playing an important part as a trimming especially on tailor built frocks those in and stiver filigree work are extraordinarily tra effective on pale pastel claths cloths and form an excellent finish to the pelerine and cape collars some of the best hats too are noticeable on account of the wonderful orna ments with which they are trimmed simple they may be but of beautiful design and workmanship the stocks ties and cravats worn over here by the best dressed mon dalnes might be copied with advantage by all the women who would be really chic there Is ho longer any excuse for floppiness or untidiness although we have seen some extraordinary specimens of the english miss in the hue de la during the past week or two wearing no adlar with the exception of a string at colored beads such a fashion never received much encouragement over here except of course for deml toilet americans and parisians Pari do not countenance these incongruities which I 1 think Is the secret ot your lying oft to the la tor your fashion the simplicity of some ot the frocks Is very charming or rather let us bay the apparent simplicity still in the morning we really may be simple the newest make of linen closely resembles hojsack hopsack and especially appeals to me as it Is soft and therefore does not crease as easily as the ordinary makes A good many sores and silks of a like nature are being used with a gay colored waistband and underskirt of course this grass linen color presents a much brighter appearance and it Is an excellent and useful shade tor traveling or motoring purposes in direct contrast to this there Is an absolute furore tor bright tints especially in a soft make of cloth scarlet still carries the day yellows pinks and bright blues are all tremendously in request very beautiful are some of the ball frocks of white gilted kilted chiffon veiled with jeweled or spangled lace by the way these transparencies tor evening wear are much in vogue in paris they are generally placed over a bitted underskirt of contrasting shade A alchu stole or scarf of real lace or embroidered lawn Is a useful present to cave any I 1 always think a big alchu or collar covers a great many amateur omissions in the matter of how lovely are the afternoon toilets T mean those suggestive of the hot summer days soft gauzes which drape beautifully are made up with endless little gaugl goffe rings and tuck ings the skirts are very much trimmed with flounces in tact we may say that the flounce Is revived in every possible way and nothing Is prettier in mus una and such ethereal fabrics in conjunction with the marie antoinette alchu of priceless old lace which Is another distinguishing feature of the modes of the hour full skirts and bouffant sleeves are characteristic of this summers mullins muslins mus lins here I 1 must add what I 1 am afraid is not good hews for the amateur who has to buy her frock by the yard and that Is that any quantity of these flimsy fabrics may be used in the construction of a reception gown As a dressmaker expresses it dozens of yards seem to plait into nothing lots of people have lace frocks that are really quite good although they cannot bring them out again unless reincarnated incarnated ed not long ago I 1 saw a very pretty frock which had been a tambour lace robe a girl was tired of wearing she had set her wits to work and inserted two nine inch or ten inch strips of delicately printed chiffon a mauve and pink flowery effect one below and one above the knees on the skirt and this at once as the comprehensive will perceive by pushing up the skirt gave the fullness at the back of which the lace skirt waa in the first instance innocent and which lack was indeed the cause of its decline in its owners favor then mediating between and covering over the junction between the lace and there was an of guipure gul pure it was a very clever little frock quite a lesson in economy and a proof that success in dress need not spell perpetual expense the short Is proving itself helped to its foothold by adopting the plaited build indeed the short skirt had to wait till the advent of the plait before it won general approval CATHERINE TALBOT |