Show ALONG THE CENTRAL PAO iria sights and incidents of the journey from utah to san francisco i special pia ra correspondence 0 o dence of the tal san francisco franico august t 12 iss la bugbear most bug or aryear bear I 1 never met one ye yet t f fairly irly f face t to face for the bugbear is is an in evasive insect nor if I 1 did meet it can I 1 say whether I 1 should prefer to find it main mainly ly bug or mainly bear 1 the latter is of various sorts thus thu s one the lit alo black bear of tho the indian hills is about as formidable as a portmanteau of the same size another the grizzly of tho the is a very person his temper is 13 as short as his his tail and ho be has very little inore seme sense of right and wrung wrong than sir mr ex senator blaine but he is not so mean as the bug you never hear of grizzly bears getting into the wood work of bedsteads and creeping out in the night toane to inside of your nightshirt ho he does not gond go and cuddle himself up flat in a crease of the pillowcase pillow case and then slip out edge soon as it ia is dark and bite yon you in in tho the napo of the neck it ii is not ou on record that a bear ever got inside a nightcap and waited till e gas was turned out to come forth iral like griefen grief on tho the damask cheek of beauty no these are not tho the habits babits of bear beam the they y are more manly than bug if you want to catch a bear between your finger and thumb and hold it over ever a lighted match on an tho the point efa afa pin it will stand still to let lety you outry try or want to have it go good od fair slap at a bear with a slipper it wont go g flattening itself out in tho the ere crevices vices of furniture in order to dodge the blow but will stand up square in the road in broad daylight and let you try so on the whole I 1 cannot quite make up my mind whether bugs or bears are tho the worst things to have bave about a house you see you could shoot at the bear out of the window but it would bo absurd to fire oft rifles at bugs between the blankets besides beides bears dont dout keep you awake all night by leaving you in in doubt as to whether whet lier they are creeping about the nape of your neck or not or spoil your nights rest by making you sit up in the bed and grope about under the clothes and trying to see things in the dark altogether then there is a good deal to be said on the side of the bear I 1 am led to t these remark remarks by remembering mem bering that at carlin nevada I 1 found two bugs in my berth in the sleeping car the porter thought I 1 must have abrou brought lit them with me perhaps I 1 dit did but as I 1 told him I 1 remember remember doing sa so and with his permission would not take them any further or perhaps the Shosho nees brought them all I 1 indians whether red or brown are indifferent to these insects and carry r y them about with them in familiar aar abundance and this reminds me to say a little about sleeping cars in general during my mt arf travels in america I 1 have used three kinds the pullman palace the siver palace and the baltimore ohio and except in beauty and finish of ornament where the pullman certainly excels the rest there is is very little to choose between the them baer AU are extremely comfortable as bleesing care cars in the silver palace however there is a custom prevalent ef of not pulling down the upper berth when it is unoccupied ed 1 and this improvement on the wa pullman man plan is certainly a very great one the two shelves one at each end of the berth are ample for ones clothe clothes while the sense of relief relie and fand better ventilation from not having the bottom of another bedstead suspended ei eighteen bleen inches or so above your face is decidedly conducive to better rest the general adoption of this thia pra practice c wherever possible would I 1 am sure bo be popular among the traveling in anub public 1 ic As 5 day cars the sleepers have one or twe two defects in common which might very easily be remedied for one thin thing every seat should have a rem removable avab 5 e scat seat belonging to it As it is 13 the weary during the day become very weary indeed and tho attempts of lif passengers to reet rest their heads by curling themselves up on lit thu seats or lying cross crosswise in the section are as pathetic as they are often absurd and give a palace car the appearance on a hot afternoon ofa of a ward in some hospital for spinal complaints another point that should be altered is the hour far for closing the smoking car when not required require for berths for pas passengers senze rs for the companas comp anys employees ought not to be considered when the convenience of the companas comp anys customers is concerned ned there is no n reason whatever for closing the smoking room at 10 As a rule it is a not closed but sometimes it is and it should not be placed in the power of a surly conductor and there arc are too nia many ill mannered conductors on the rait railways to annoy passengers by applying such ch a senseless Een scless regulation A third point ia is the apple and boint the newspaper boy oy nuisance nuisance this wretched creature idof if of an enterprising p ri i ng kind aca pc ster 1 ars you t to 0 purchase ahle and if you express any annoyance at his importunity ho 0 ia is t F f aji 1 u insolent but apart from his insolence he be is is an unmitigated nuisance what should bo be done in this A printed slip such as the boy himself carries and showing what lie he sells should be put on tie the seats by the porter and when any passenger pas wanted an orange or a book he be could send for the vender but the vender should be absolutely forbidden to parade his wares in the sleeping cars unless sent for fo r anywhere clao else except on a train he lie aou would id be handed over to the police for his importunities but on the train he considers himself justified in badgering the public a and nd impertinently resents being ordered away these are three small matters no doubt but changes in the direction I 1 have suggested would nevertheless materially increase the comfort of passengers and now let ms me see in my last letter I 1 said goodby good od by to the mor jor mons and Mormon laud and had got ot 1 ae as far into nevada as carlin prom er om there a dismal interval of wilderness brings the traveler to palisade a group of wooden saloon dooni haunted by bumbera of yellow chinese in th thi few minutes that the train slopped stopped here I 1 saw a curious sight A A number olour of our Shosho uee passengers mengers pa the deadheads head heads on the platform plat furm between the baggage ca cars rs had yot ot off and one of them was w the squaw that had bad the As she sate down and her infant from lier back a group gather ed round her lier one englishman in ona one negro three mulattoes cs and a chinaman and they were all laughing laughin gat at the indian not one efthim of them all not even the negro neg gro but thought himself entitled to make fun of other her and her baby the w white hito man looks down on the mulatto and tho the mulatto on the negro and the negro and the chinaman reciprocate a mutual disdain yet hero here they were all four together on a common platform loftily ridiculing the chos honce I 1 it was a delightful delight fuT spectacle fer the cynic nic but I 1 amno um no cynic an and jilt yet I 1 1 laughed licar heartily tily at them all at them all except hon honee ee I 1 cannot the lifo life of me help venerating these representatives of prodigious antiquity antiquity these thes relics relies of a civilization that tha t dates at back bick before b for our flood then we reach the Ilum boldt river a broad and full watered I 1 stream lazily winding along among ample meadows but not a trace of cultivation anywhere and then thed on the desert again with the surface odthe of tee alkali land curling up into nto flakes and the lank gray ray greasewood sparsely scattered about it the tile desolation la is as utter as in stan and instead of mur rees there are plenty of Shosho nees to make the desolation perilous to travelers by wagon at battle creek station in men en with faces like masks and women burnished aud and painted and wooden as the figure heads of english barges I 1 do not think that in islands of eastern or southern seas I 1 have ever met a it race with such a baffling physiognomy you can no more tell from his face what an indian is thinking of than you can from froni a moi monkeys kkeys their eyes brighten and then glaze laze over again without a word being ed ing spoken or a muscle of the face MO moved red and they avert glances as son as you look at them I 1 iem isyou if you look into an indians ladi Iad ians aua eyes they seem to deaden and all expressions die out efthem of them but the moment you begin a to turn your head away you are conscious of the tile rapid furtive glances that they dart at you they are tire hieroglyphics altogether and there is something 0 uncanny about them at battle creek we ive note thet with irrigation trees will grow but in a few minutes we aro are out again en n the desert the eternal greasewood gr the only onit apology for vegetation and little litt 0 owie owls the only representatives of wild life an ali eo to winnemucca where being watered watt ered a few trees tiro are growing 1 but the desolation is i 3 nevertheless no V s so complete completo that I 1 could not help thinking of f the dine diffie reaco rence a little mormon industry 11 would make A company of baunack indiana indians were waiting here for the train and such a wonderful collection they were one of them thern waa was the chief who not long ago gave the federal troops a good deal of trouble and his retinue was the most wonderful medley of curiosities a long thin roan man with wi or the figure of a lamppost lamp post a short fat one with the expression ofa of a pancake pan an cake eake a halfbreed half breed with a bearda beard and a boy with a squint the chief with a face about an aero acre in ip width wore a stovepipe stove pipe hat w with ith the crown knocked out and the open opening stuffed full of feather I 1 but the rest offis of his wonderful costume all napping about him in ends aal a fingers of all calora colors and very dirty is i indescribable Ms suite euite were in in more sober garb but all were vere i grotesque their headgear head gear being especially delightful 0 and allowing the utmost scorn of the hatters or original inal intentions some wore their hats upside up ide down and scraped down with a ribbon others inside out with a fringo of their own added on behind but it was enough to make any hatter mad tu to boak booko at nt them TO CONCLUDED |