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Show ; iTS GOING TO BE AN EARLY FUR SEASON I UBING the summer Parisians , solved the problem of koep-f koep-f lw Ing cool In a rather para-I para-I rioxical fashion that Is, the l women gowned themselves for the hot I weather In costumes of chiffon trimmed trim-med with fur. II At Auteull, the famou6 race course ' of France, where the lure of the track ehares honors with the stunning costumes cos-tumes of the feminine spectators, frocks of X ray fabrics as the transparent trans-parent stuffs are now called, have been j the rule; gowns of so airy a nature I that nothing save the full bands at the bottom of tho Blurts apparently kept ' them from blow Ins away. Indeed, a I well known Parisian at Auteull was heard to remark that "women wore I their fur3 to keep their clothes down." Wraps worn over dressy summer V frocks, too, have had wide fur collars ' of a queer pelt dyed in an unnatural I orange color. So there Ls every reason ( to believe that we will have an un-I. un-I. usually early fur season regardless of climatic conditions. The smart pelts of the winter season f will be moleskin, broadtail, seal, baby caracul and pony skin The best liked fur coat models are in cutaway effects, straight front, or box ' Mouseu. as 1110 iratie term incm, ado In full models Japanese styles are much favored. But perhaps the newest of wraps arc the mantlettes, and they are hnrming- ly chic when developed In pelts These little wraps extend a trifle be'ow the I waist lint nt the back in rounded fash-I fash-I Jon. have kimono sleeves and a square cut off line at the waist In front. In Imitation seal n mantlette, is de-I de-I rldedly poor) ki!.- and one of the best I furriers in New York city har. an at- tractive model f this fur priced at 150 not an exorbitant sum as the I I price of fur has soared together With F the cost of high living in other dlrec-r dlrec-r tions A new and rather peculiar feature of the eon i of I'M'.i ls the collar. T here I no attempt at fitting in this collar 1 After the many years When the fit of I the collar made or marred the garment It Is a bit startling to learn now that She collar should not fit. The bunehler I J and clumsier the neckpiece the smarter I f the wrap becomes nowadays. II Katurall) such a collar gives a very thickset appearance to the hack of the neck une might almost pity the J wearer for her hunched shoulders if I I there were any pity left to waste on those who accept freaks of fashion I t. There arc fortunately n few women I blessed with what the French poet v ii-I ii-I f Ion cslls the saving grace of sense"' l who will insist upon collars that tit However, the new collar effect can be S produced very In fur, and It s a I singular fa t that it lines not look so I E clumsy in pelt. ne expects a full col-l col-l I la i 1 u tie rnnri: or ! unwieldy I I Other vagaries of the new fur collars II sre the strange way-. In which they I Rfss ,n the back. Occasionally this I crossing is at the front and tho collar I I jlns a band of fur that Is used to out- line th" edges. I Textile fabrics are now manufactured I IB such clever imitations of fur that )V they are difficult to detect from the rtal thing Arabian lamb Is a wonderfully good! fur Imitation of the season that, 0.1-' , I BLACK AMD WHITE FURS THE DERNIER CRI. though cheap In comparison with n " pelt, is expensive enough to suit the average pocketbook. Among the illustrations Is a cloak of the lamb trimmed with civet cat and braid. It Is extremely smart and only the most critical eyt, could delect the Imitation. Astrakhan rioth will trim many of the best looking trotting suits, and the little blun serge costume pictured is effectively ornamented with astrakhan.' gun metal buttons and buckles. Black and white furs from all reports are to be the dernier cri this season, and the charming set illustrated is a ARABIAN LAMB CLOAK. TAILORED SUIT TRIMMED WITH ASTRAKHAN. popular new model. The scarf Is of one animal, while the muff is made of the skins of three beasts. It might hurt the sensibilities of cat lovers to learn that pussy's skin is employed to this cruel end. Velvet, brocaded velvet and metallic bii" ides will 1)0 the materials used for wraps of an elaborato sort, and when fur is not employed as a trimming mo- tlf there Is an ostrich ruche used about tho neck The most luxurious of these wraps are lined with chiffon either In plain shades or In printed materials. Silk brocades are also used for linings, and charmeuse and plain satin are in good standing for coat linings. The wonderful new colors and combinations in these fabrics make them very appealing. ap-pealing. CATHERINE TALBOT. |