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Show HOW PBLT HATB Ang MAOE. ! Thnoint of Men, YCnrnrn and tleya Are rmployed In Ih. fntluitry. One of tbe leading Industrie In thla country I the manufacture ot hata. At tbe prewnt time fur felt hat are mad In eleven atalee namaly: Connecticut. Con-necticut. Indiana, Iltlnota, Maryland, Maine. )tMachuetta, Mleeourl, New Jeraey, New York, l'euneylvanla aftd Ithode laland Tber are In all moro than too manufacturing planta producing produc-ing hale for men'a, boy', women' and children a wear rornpoeed of the fur ot the rabbit, beaver, nutria, and other anlmala The Induatry employe upward up-ward of Xt.000 men, women and boy, ml the approximate value of the output out-put I anld lo be 110,000 000 annually, peaking ot men'a hata and their manufacture manu-facture n repretentallvo of one of tho largeat firm In thla city aald' "Kelt hata Include the popular derby and tho varlou atyle of toft hata. nil of which are mad from animal fur, the natural coat ot the coney, hare, nutria, musk-rut musk-rut and beaver. To manlpulato the Iklne of theto animal eo aa to properly preparo tho far for felting purpoaca I an expert chemical operation, In fact, I trad In Itrelf, entirely dlillnct from ll.ftt of hatmaklng, and I earrlM on by 'hatter' ' fur cutter In Iimlon, tho world' great center for that work. Tho art of tho hatmakrr Include a knowledge knowl-edge ot tho particular fur or combination combina-tion of fur for making n given quality of hat. Tho proportioning of the different dif-ferent fur require the utmoat exact-net exact-net Tho quality of product having been decided up . the fur I then eleaned nnd acparatrd from atray hair ind all unreliable mbatanrc. Thla Initial In-itial procra I accompllahed by a windy win-dy machine called 'tho devil.' The next procee. 'forming,' conalrta of dla-trlbutlng dla-trlbutlng by mean ot air current n light coating of fur upon the outer aur-I aur-I face of n revolving perpendicular cone, perforated with amall hole When fur cover the cone autllclent for one hat It I wrapped In wet cloth and given a brief hot bath, then tripped from tho cone, and, after tho 'topplng' procea of adding n lltllo (ur to weak pot, I wrapped with other cloth lnlde n woolen cloth to 'harden' It for handling. Ily a procea called 'tiling.' which con-lata con-lata of repeated Immcralon In hot water, wa-ter, together with rolling and unrolllnc, folding nnd unfolding, the cone-haped ninaa la reduced to nne-lhlnl Ita original origin-al alio lt I wonderful bow each fiber will twin nnd Intertwine, bntket faah-Ion, faah-Ion, with the other, until tho product Un clnaely woven ma. The 'body' la then alinvcd,' to removo atray hair In the fur. and then It I ttlffrncd with n coating of thcllac, thoroughly dried, .mil then aubjected to team, which often the incline and draw a It Into the fabric. When dried It I Immcracd In a hot alkaline aolutlon to frco the ur-face ur-face from ahcllac nnd then In cold water to removo tho alknll. 'mocking' 'mock-ing' iticceed allffcnlng. The fabric I dipped In boiling water nnd placed on n block patterned for tha final thane of tho hat. After tho dyeing procea come that of flnlthtng, which contltt ot teamlng, blocking tn ahape tho crown, drying, coating with n atlffcnlng aolutlon, drying again. Ironing out wrinkle, nfter whlrh It la pounced with emery paper nnd dnged lo remove tho long nap, nnd oil applied to emooth j the aurface. The 'curling' department cut the brim to the dealred width, roll up tho Idea, nnd pltchea the front nnd rear na the atyle demanda With tho proceaa ot trimming, conalatlng of mw-Ing mw-Ing on the binding nnd band and cementing ce-menting tho lining, the derby I finished fin-ished lt a toft hat I dealred the atlf-feulng atlf-feulng procea I omitted.1 New York Commercial. |