| Show W ito I 1 aw ti A f itt X W 9 X A azy e 4 ak A typical german lace factory at paulene Paule nj showing a part of the building one part having four sl stories orles and the other one story the long building from the mexican drawn work of the south very little attempt Is made by americans to produce high grade lace on the other hand band many cities on the continent such as nottingham calais and paulen depend largely upon the manufacture of lace for their employment the city of plauen blauen last year produced embroidery lace to an estimated value of marks a mark equals cents of this only about one fifth Is IB retained in germany and tho rest is exported to other countries especially the T united states and england thu the modern modem work may be said to date from 1857 when the first hand machine tor for mak making ing embroidery was introduced from switzerland but it was not until 1881 when herr at glapen plauen originated the idea of em broidering broi brol dering on tulle that the specialty was started that has since made plauen blauen famous the idea of embr old ering on net was later followed by that of embroidering embroider ing on a material to be chemically removed so go as to leave only the embroidered lace itself in considering lace work in the plauen blauen district it may be noted that lace can be made a de by three separate methods being known as needle pillow and machine needle lace is made with the needle bar hand band and lace so eo made was called in ili old time needle or point lace pillow lace is made by interweaving by hand the various threads around pins stuck in a pillow machine made lace Is a quite rec recent ent development but embraces a good many mana systems hand embroidery Is still employed in upper and is made with either a regular sewing needle or with the tambour needle it is made on a cotton or linen ground both needle and pillow lace are occasionally to be found also though only to a limited extent the manufacture of hand band bm cm in the background is one of the model tenements which have been erected at paulen tor for the special purpose of ira im proving the housing conditions of the i workers F int intricate cate lace machine which now performs work formerly done by many hands it is very intricate and ranks in importance of invention with the totton cotton gin linotype and other mechanical devices which have reduced the oost cost of production by W A graham dark clark special agent of the united states department of com commerce merve and labor in germany plauen blauen germany Oer many aug 9 an industry which is little known in america is the manufacture of lace aside broidered broi brol dered blouses and robes also of the so called battenberg articles little tapes joined together by needlework still flouris flourishes hos in this section ri benstock Is the largest hand embroidery center and has a reputation for rich designs and fancy work to a larger extent it is noted for its ite bead embroideries polished bohemian beads of various colors and spangle made from a mixture of gelatine gelat lne and cellulose are sewn on by hand and used to make dress trimmings edgings eddings edg ings skirts collars belt etc bead embr embroideries old made on black tulle and beadwork formed on metal tulle also have a good sale the swiss operative is more skilled than the german operative and his wages in this line are smaller from figures obtained at both centers in regard to this industry it would seem that the german worker receives the same number of marks that the swiss worker does docs francs a franc equals cents another important point la is that the th e bleaching blo aching at st gall gives moreon a dead white bleach than does that of flatten the st gall bleach eries obtain their water from the tha bodensee bodenske Boden see lake of constance while at plauen blauen thoy depend partly on wells and partly on a small email river the weiss E ister eister which Is frequently muddy I 1 the rho hand machines in use nee at plauen blauen are similar to those described in my report on the swiss industry swiss embroidery and lace industry monograph published by the bureau of manufactures pp ap 43 but are u usually bally five alve yards wide instead of four and a halt half as customary in switzerland this machine was wa introduced from switzerland in 1857 and in 1863 there were in operation this number gradually increased until there wery sonic somo in 1893 since then they have not been able to stand the competition of the power machines and have decreased in numbers until they are estimated now at not much over 2500 2600 each machine is estimated to produce marks worth of ery a yen yean so their total production may be roughly figured at marks the bulk of the work in this line Is for home consumption lo in germany and little to Is exported the blauen plauen laces ines are made on the machine and therefore cheth pd ed tulle laces gulp tires imitations of 0 I 1 real laces etc are all classed as cm brol dery laces the number of ii ll machines used at plauen blauen has steadily increased in the past pact few years and is 13 now estimated at each machine is estimated to produce at least 10 marks of lace a year so that the total production in this line may be figured at fully marks annually in making lace the salability of the finished article depends more on the artistic design than it does on the me m c anical chanilal ch finish ind and the designers of the finer class of laces are highly skilled men the german government fosters the creation of special schools located at every center that produces a specialty in pursuance of this plan there is at plauen blauen a royal industrial school that is one of the best in germany and that has had a good deal to do through tho trained designers it has turned out allt with et extending ending and perfecting Pl anens ns lal al industry of etched lace making connected I 1 with the school Is 18 a museum mu cum which has one of the finest collect collections ons in europe of old and modern laces such a museum Is of great help to the student in order to keep in touch with the industry there are branch museums of eiben stock Anna borg falkenstein auerbach Glau glauchau chau meerane and frankenberg the exhibits of which are exchanged with the central museum at plauen blauen the result of the study of the old designs by the young men meli being trained for far a life work as designers aias as shown itself not only in the imitation of the old laces so exactly by machine as scarcely to be distinguished from hand work but in the great number of new forms and combinations that are continually being introduced and by means of which the plauen blauen manufacturers are arc enabled to get the best prices and keep just a step ahead of their competitors i baby wont ont suffer five minutes with croup if you apply dr thomas ec electric oil at once it acts like magic |
