Show r l j I Wy S yg l S 9 1 m Ky ig Pt II m ml i J ii I 1 4 11 ij i t I t I 9 j w I f i I i I II I I SOME so n SPRING FOR TilE THE Tit WOMAN NO iO LONGER SLENDER I Suiting the tho Stout I The shirtwaist costume shown herewith exemplifies c the distinction distinction distinction tion that may ma be imparted to a simple gown by a few comparatively trifling additions The shirtwaist has three tuck luck plaits laid bid at the lie shoulder at both front and back but instead ad of finishing with a plain collar or stock the lie neck is is cut into a V at the front and a small of lace or tucked ticked lawn fills ills in the opening A turnover collar to which is applied fancy fa n C edges the neck of the thc wait waist and md the same trimming outlines the lie trot edges forming a vest effect that is always be becoming becoming becoming coming to 0 a figure that is is at all inclined to stoutness In the same way length is given to the front of the lie skirt by the lie triple plaited panel that is judiciously flattened at the top by having the centre panel overlap the two wo added plaits A similar neck effect may be introduced into any an shirtwaist and any an ami plain skirt may have hare havethe havethe the long lon front lines suggested by b making lap scams seams where herc the he front breadth joins the sides or by trimming rimming these seams with braid brud or folds of the same cloth How Ho should I let my friends know that I r have come back to town to live liver asked Mrs Howe You should call on all nil friends and former visiting acquaintances and leave yOur jour ur cards with your jour our new nev address In large lar e cities where distances arc great and visiting is not easy cas many man persons simplify fy matters by b having a tea or a n series of teas and amid sending out cards to o that effect This shows ones friends that one remembers rs them and wishes to see them and they the generally respond by calling on one of the days but after a prolonged absence it would seem more courteous to call on ott your jour our list I st of ac acquaintances even though you send out cards later for some fome special event Everyone should try to make at least one call ell during durin the year on friends and acquaintances Before Defore I forget et it please explain what is meant by leaving cards i Cards Curds Remember always that a card is a re reminder reminder reminder minder of oC your our call and your address One leaves a card whether the hostess is at home or not You may leave a acard acard acard card on the hall table when entering the house or when going away You may ma malay lay a card down unobtrusively on any convenient table If you ou are told at the front door that Mrs B is not at home jou OU may leave your jour card cud with the person who opens the door Of course one cne must nevel under any lOy circumstances give ones card to the person on whom one is is calling call ng About my husbands cards what is is the custom asked Mrs Howe A man is not supposed to have leis leisure leisure leisure ure for or making calls His wife leaves his cards with her own when making a first call of the lie and when calling in acknowledgment of invitations The general rule rul to remember is is that a woman leaves le one of her cards for each lady in a family and one of her bus hus husT 1 r F T r 1 0 curving at the back The curved cutaway line at t the lower front fron edge is is another desirable feature as i it avoids cutting the tIme figure by a straight line across the front The TIme woman oman who has made a study stud o othe of the lie good and bad points of her figure knows all these little wrinkles be because because because cause she has made macic it a point to get the very vcr best possible effects in in each of he her gowns and it is just these small details detail that make the difference between the smart and the dowdy figure The coa coat shown well welt illustrates s the th several fea features features fe tures that are most desirable in in this thi garment The skirt with it is a plain skirt but is given g en a certain importance by the lie applied top op facing around the bot bottom bottoni torn toni the upper up r edge of oC the facing being be ns cut in iii a shaped outline forming a tab tal that laps upward at each scam The I skirt scams seams and the long French seams seam at the front and back of the coat will wil look well if finished with lap seams anc and be certain that the lie scams seams in both Jar gar garments ar ments arc are lapped in in the same direction In selecting material for such a gown it is is well to bear in mind that rough bands cards card for each lady lad and for the theman theman theman man of the tile household Yet here h re is another point it is not considered ir in in good taste t to leave more than three ol of ones cards at a house even where there is a large largo family Jm l For instance you jou might be calling nl on Mrs B who has two grown daughters Her mother lives with sith her Three of your jour cards would include them all and three of your hus husbands husbands husbands bands cards would be plenty plent As a general rule a married mans card is is not left for a young joung girl How soon is a call due after a ter an In Invitation invitation Invitation i Within a week after a dinner dinners a luncheon a card party a home wedding or any evening party It is obligatory obligator to call whether one accepted or not notIs notIs noti i Is it right to call after a tea or reception inquired Mrs Howe No you OU do not call ell after a n tea t or reception because your jour call is made when going to the tea A hostess sends cards to notify notH her friends when she will willbe willbe willbe be at home They may ma go or not as ashey they hey thc please If they the go they leave cards If they cannot go they the send cards t by y post on the lie day of the lie tea and their duty 13 is s done d ne neAt At that moment pretty Rosamond Ro mond came in in from a walk valk Seeing her mothers friend she hastened forward Oh Mrs Howe I am so 0 glad to see you iou she said s id as they shook hands Instead of chattering about herself the girl sat near her mother and showed by her courteous manner that she was in interested crested in their guest Presently Mrs Howe Ilowe rose to go o while saying yin to her hostess This friendly talk hiss has given me new energy and nod courage I lam am Jm determined to try to surmount all difficulties in the lie social world Mrs Wright and Rosamond rose and shook hands with their guest and Mrs Wright accompanied her to the door saying sa ng Come to me aa as often as you ou wish with w th problems problem r pr F p I chiffon broadcloth henrietta or cash cashmere cashmere cashmere mere mereThe mereThe The Importance of Colors In Iii considering color gray always comes first to mind but there is almost as much room for selection amongst the various shades of gray as if they th y were v rc different colors colon Then too the individual ual complexion and coloring must be 1 considered The theory of matching the tho general tinting is safe to follow ollow The colorless face may maj not be b framed c to advantage with the tints that favor t t the pink and md white skin for the latter there is is gray with a pinkish tinge that is very vcr suitable and the dark orchid shades through which the same pinkish tinting tint tintin nEf runs but not light enough to bo Do conspicuous will be good for the street costume Plain black though not riot mourning so 1 2 often adopted for almost constant wear I by the he is really quite try ing unless well relieved about the neck ned J Jand 1 and throat by b white Take a lesson 1 from the changing hair and make m the tho black and white proportions practically j I correspond Do not be afraid of a few touches of delicate color a n few fancy 1 stitches in in n embroidery silk outlining an r redge edge a spider web worked in silk 9 lk on the of button molds few I L realize by what simple means original nal and distinctive gowning may often be I attained A Good Fit not Hot a Tight Fit Pit There is one thing the thc woman of well s developed figure should bear in mind and that is that a good fit is not necessarily necessarily a tight fit rather the he reverse in fact A garment r l E with symmetrical lines is more graceful and becoming and less inclined to at attract attract attract tract attention to ones size than tho the 10 W waist wast or coat that is noticeably tight fitting filling In skirts too a figure with full lull hips hip will look immeasurably better when t there is a good swing at the tho sides from the hips to the lower edge Only at atthe atthe the should the skirt hang han perfectly straight and flat When it is is L dr drawn wn back bak too much from tb the sides sid tb the lie effect upon the thc figure is not at all good OO l fl b Lr I |