Show I CrA c cc YE r R 4 a i I op cD r G 0 GI 0 I LATE PARIS I ID N IN HI E arc just at that rather dull WE period in lash Cash ions when the Ule summer is almost but not quite at an 1 end and the fall is is almost but not quite beginning Yet Paris is without ideas even in in the eddy of seasons and several new gowns have hae been shown in inthe inthe the Bois that have hae attracted well merited attention At this season too in Paris one begins to gather from the general gossip what the fall faU promises Ex Extreme styles of the kind in 10 which spring md and summer were fertile have passed out of vogue The fall shows a return to the heavily draped and rather full although models of twenty to years ago The black lace cape I show here is really a modern modem adaptation of the cir circular circular cular for instance How flow far we are to proceed along these lines I do not know the chances are that after Redfern and have finished with their new models only those most gifted with imagination could trace the inspiration Some of the gowns which I spoke of above abDe I am showing you ou here Thc They r all t of them are of the variety md and can be worn up to the middle of September r without discomfort Transparent Black Wraps the Tad Paris women have taken up the transparent black wrap with unusual en enthusiasm ven for P Paris ris These wraps are of black net lace and chiffon and andare are arc often elaborately embroidered with jet beads ads This graceful black chiffon cape falls from a shirred shoulder oke of black velvet and over the chiffon falls a netting of silver threads weighted by velvet elvet rosettes The cape is tre tremendously full at the bottom where it is weighted by an insertion of heavy Yak lace Pale Blue Gown with Embroidery The of this lovely costume can scarce scarcely be realized from the illus illustration which does docs not produce the col coloring coloring oring Over a trailing slip of cr crepe pe de chine falls a tunic of white lace and this lace tunic is is weighted down by the girdle of pearls and tur beads ads which hangs at atone atone one side A shaped piece of this blue and pearl embroidery hangs over the bodice of lace and the sleeves are of blue chiffon and lace Goats Smart 1 if Not Hot Warn Though the ga gay little sleeveless wraps of lace laco are not the least protection protection tion they are arc very charming over white summer frocks for afternoon wear This lace coat is really made of four long panels bound nt at the edges edge with silk to match the frock it accompanies and c caught together only under the arms where the silk belt crosses Motifs of heavy Irish crochet set into the stole ends give added richness to the coat coal There arc no sleeves the armholes be being being ing edged with silk bands but the sleeves of the frock beneath are made of the same samo lace with ith tucked chiffon cuffs Linea with Embossed d The embroidery which trims this simple yet pretty prett dress is dyed in in th the lavender laender shade of the linen Both coat and dress are arc trimmed with this tin em md and also with the braiding followed with tines lines of heavy stitching which produces a raised or embossed effect on the linen Around the is a line of violet velvet velet and the violet note is repeated in in velvet velet velveton On the hat which is of leghorn trimmed I Ci with wistaria The gloves are arc the dainty Niagara embroidered sort with lavender embroideries on a ground 61 q r Y Yi i 4 p gI t 2 I f V Vr V 2 r 1 I I Ii tri r i f fa fb I j a b TRANSPARENT BLACK WRAP The Frenchwoman Marco Adoro a Huff The possibilities of coquetry in a muff are fully appreciated by the who dearly loves loes to lO pose with a huge fluffy muff in her hands and has her sUmmer muffs of chiffon md and lace as aswell aswell well as the warmer sorts for practical winter use This frock of pale mauve maue de dc sole is matched by a huge muff of the material trimmed with wilh lace frills and silk cord Late summer always brings the thc problem problem lem of the unlined gown To any but the most slender figure a fitted lining is essential t to shapeliness et ct we hesi hesitate hesitate tate to put a permanent lining into a gown that is to be laundered The either alone or orin orin in one of the sheath combinations solves soles the question so far as the waist is con concerned Its use avoids the necessity for bust supporters and the several cor of this kind that mean meaning meaning ing additional clothing arc none too welcome in very warm weather The Thc plain may be relieved from absolute sever severity ly by the thc judicious use nse of trimming which should never be elaborate however The disclosure through a sheer waist of an over trimmed and large corset bow of colored ribbon that had a certain vogue ogue last summer is in questionable it even mil mildly ly A f f 14 L ti E A AT T I 1 I II A iI I c v n l G J 1 II LA VENDER LAVENDER LINEN simple embroidery design with a buttonholed but buttonholed edge or a frill of narrow lace is is quite enough I II PALE BLUE WITH TURQUOISE TRIMMING Using Trimmed Underwear Though almost every woman likes daintily trimmed underwear she should THE SUMMER MUFF select her plainest to wear under a transparent waist Better still then w wearing aring the dress directly over the THE SMART SLEEVELESS COAT and a white cambric skirt is is to have a fitted slip made for thus this purpose It takes the place of a lining and certainly makes one seem much more properly dressed If made of suitable material it may re replace replace place the thc and long petti petticoat coat coal Under a gown of transparent fabric a slip of this sort is practically a necessity It assures the thc same me shade and color under both waist and skirt and by its tines lines adds immensely to lO the good effect of the cos costume costume tume It Il also does away with that bug bugbear bugbear bear of the gaping waistline tv Still another advantage gc is that Hut b by supplying lying slips of different colors and using corresponding ribbons at girdle neck md and hair a very pleasing variety may be given to one gown Time sUp slip ma may be of silk ilk but it is by no means necessary that it should be bc Lawn any good mercerized linin lining fabric or satire sa tine may be used The latter is especially for this purpose as It both wears eus and looks Nell A good cotton material is infinitely to be preferred erred to toa toa a cheap silk The Tho Princess SUp Slip Perhaps as satisfactory a WI way as any to prepare for time the summers dressing dressin is isto is isto to have several of these princess slips made of or long cloth If H detachable flounces are pro provided provided vided the arrangement will ilI be perfect The flounces may rank ranc in degrees oi of fineness and elaboratIon from lawn dim iI fi figured or dotted Swiss to handsome embroidery or I lace cc trimmed organdy and French lawn There will bull be b better protection to the flounce if the thc slip is allowed to extend is in full fult length underneath it Gather the top of the flounce jr into o a I narrow narow band Work in it buttonholes about two md and inches apart and m mcw sew cw buttons on the skirt at correct for th the flounce A band of cm broIder or beading cd to the buttonholed band at the th upper edge only will conceal the buttonholes tho SUp with s Two It is not only und under r a princess dress drs that the princess sUp slip will b be appreciated The rte avoidance oi of extra belt thickness and lO adjustment is quite lS as much to be desired under a cc fume A misses costume shown ho n ha i mime shops is is not a model that requires a aIming alining lining Iming in in the making but when devel developed op d in the lawn batiste Swiss silt muslin or serpentine crept cr pe for which it itis itis is so 0 well ada the lil lip beneath it will Improve both its fit and ap appearance arance This model b by th the way av may be made into a by uniting the waist and skirt by br a bard band of lace or embroidered insertion match matching matching ing that insert in lengthwise lines Jines This is the most practical wa way to mace the Princess rin ess models in sheer materials ma materials J whIch have not enough body in their texture to hold the shape of the smooth princess lines The shaped prin princess princess cess is c y effective e when made of allover embroidery embroidery Allover embroideries td cries eries may be bought at very moderate price if a simple design is selected r rHem New Hem Ideas or o figure There is no question about the good i style o of the princess models nor the th genera general fagot faor that is accorded them Now that we are realizing the fact that thata a waist is not the of a good figure and that equalization of measures gives not only better balance bal ancel ance but absolutely a more youthful i carriage carnage e the princess gown own in well fit easy fit is not the forbIdden garment it has been to man many women Fortunately too for in some of its many possible modifications it is embodied in m the changing styles The long panel at the front from neck to the bottom of the skirt is all that remains of it in in some models but this is is really the essen essential ll feature of the stylee It is introduced d with excellent effect into girls dresses when the regular princess or Gabrielle model might not provide enough on the slender young figure A plaited skirt is is gen generally generally preferable to a gathered model for lightweight goods White lawn Indian linen or figured muslin may b bused be used or one of the dimities or printed fabrics for the d dress res S with a plain color of the same materia material for the and belt For wear under thin unlined dresses ses there is a French com combination which has the and a flounce that may be made to button on permit permitting permitting ting the thc same variety of flounces to be used as on the misses or ladies skirts finishing Armholes A frill frail of lace will g give e the necessary finish to the neck and armholes and the pattern includes straps to be stitched in in indicated positions to the inside of the to which the drawers may maybe maybe be attached making an extra underbody for this purpose HELEN D PURDY |