Show I I r I I k ir I II I 4 I 7 ft ii i SALLY M I M A r J s 's AA J Z t Av r wi x f i i f n i ii h 8 y tt itt i p 1 Afar c i rt r r rc iI I f j l C i C Cw a k x i w Y i L e 1 1 t Y gAe as t c j I A j 9 arf r t f i E EY Y SS ry t v 1 p p KlOa Quilting one of the sma smartest r t est forms of trim trim- trimming trimming ming this season is a feature of this navy taffeta coat r This decorative stitching is used as a border ant antl in large motifs motifs on the fronts NE of the most interesting de deI Q ONE of the spring mode is the return of taffeta This stiff aWl cool material is used for the bouffant type of evening gown for afternoon frocks and more novel still for street costumes The undoubted vogue of this fabric is due to its youthful definite lines linea and crisp texture qualities that afford a wel- wel welcome wel welcome come relief from the ubiquitous crepes and satins ratina The use of taffeta for the wide wide- skirted period gown is ia not new For several seasons bouffant frocks of this kind have employed taffeta as their me- me medium medium me medium its stiffness being admirably adapted to the full skirts of dresses dressea of this character Nor is the use of taffeta for afternoon costumes particularly novel no several veral de- de designers de designers signers during the past winter notably Lanvin and Worth featuring this fabric for slender afternoon gowns as well as asfor asfor asfor for the more extreme period models I It is in the realm of street outfits that taffeta finds its happiest t expression Here Hereit Hereit Hereit it is a decidedly n new w note and one that shows every sign sip of bee becoming am in extremely popular In addition to making malung ensemble cos cos- costumes cos- cos costumes costumes and piece one-piece afternoon dresses it is used for tor separate coats the rather formal type of wrap intended for wear over either a matching frock or har har- har- har harmonizing harmonizing gown own of lace and chiffon While the majority of these theBe taffeta wraps are made on straight tailored lines there is nothing severe about their general appearance Practically every everyone everyone everyone one has a n decorative trimming of some kind to atone for the uncompromising straightness of the silhouette The most popular form of decoration IT ITin In striking con contrast con con- contrast contrast to the black R background is the trimming on the sleeves of this taffeta taffeta taffeta feta coat at the right leather leather ap- ap ap and span span- spangles spangles files in brilliant x u colors outlined with gold stitch stitch- stitching stitching e ing ing ingis LA is quilting a revival of an old style of trimming that is peculiarly adapted to a coat of this character The quilting appears appear in tone self andin and andin in in colon alone or In combination with some contrasting form of ornament The background isa is a foil for the colorful decoration Excellent examples of the new taffeta coats are shown day to-day In every case cue I 1 have used a smart smart contrasting trimming in three in brilliant color and in the remaining case in self tone self tone A straight line silhouette is also alao an arresting feature of each wrap as this contour seems best beat adapted to a coat of this decorative character The effectiveness pf quilting as aa a trim trim- trimming trim trimming ming for a taffeta coat is fa apparent in a line straight line model of navy silk dab elaborately elaborately quilted in yellow red green and tan chain stitching This ornamentation appears in a nar- nar narrow narrow nar narrow row border around the edges on the inside of the rovers revere on the cuffs culTs and andin andin andin in large motifs just below the pockets pocket Smaller motifs are scattered at regular intervals over the entire coat giving the effect of tiny bunches of flowers An interesting contrasting color no note is provided by the lining of chartreuse taffeta eta The wrap around lines line of this coat have proved the most generally becoming becom becom- becoming becoming ing They have replaced to a certain extent the flared effects of last season one reason being the flattering qualities of a silhouette of this kind The grace of a tall figure fie is accentuated by a wrap on unbroken lines while a short figure inclined to stoutness tautness is m e er eH r H i t aK t i it t a 4 i unquestionably improved by a coat or ordress dress drep that preserves an unbroken con con- contour contour tour its entire length Equally smart is the hat I 1 have chosen to accompany this taffeta coat It Is of navy nary blue straw a weave that promises to be as popular as it was last season This is a sailor shape with a medium crown creased across the top and a straight narrow brim As befits the tho simple lines of this model the trimming consists of a band of matching grosgrain ribbon ending in a tailored bow on one side It is not unusual for a taffeta coat of this character to be enlivened with deco deco- C cm I tbt bl It t sf sfa a I native sleeves Frequently the only trimming is on the sleeves in which case the ornamentation consists of embroidery embroidery ery cry or motifs of silk or le leather ther therin in brilliant colors outlined with contrasting con con- contrasting contrasting stitching Trimming of the latter type Isa Is ia a fea- fea feature feature fea feature ture of a black taffeta coat shown on this page Here lIere the sleeves are unquestionably unquestionably unquestionably the chief interest on account of their very decorative treatment of red and brown suede combined with green and blue spangles the whole outlined with gold tinsel thread form a diamond shaped diamond shaped design on the tho sleeves This splash of color against the black background more than atones for the severity of the silhouette It also com com- compensates compensates compensates for the tailored simplicity of the rest of the coat giving color and sparkle to the top portion Around the edges I have used a band of cartridge pleating pleating-a pleating a tailored looking finish in keeping with the smart simplic simplic- simplicity simplicity simplicity ity of the whole When the coat cost is thrown open there isa is a daring color note prod pro pro- provided vided by the lining of f royal blue faille An equally simple but very smart little littlehat littlehat littlehat hat accompanies this coat It Is of black felt trimmed with a band of grosgrain Its chief Interest is its upturned brim which Is na narrow ow on one side and con eon considerably considerably wider on the other If a more daring effect is desired the hat might be In one of the colors of the trimming The Tho coats In the photograph with the two figures show widely contrasting types of trimming One is a simple with model with model with a quilted border the other othera a more moro sophisticated wrap with an elaborate dab dab- elaborate orate decoration combined with lines of stitching In gold The former Is essentially spring like tpring like on account of its color scheme of navy blue and red The addition of red to a adark adark adark dark blue or black costume invariably results in a pleasing effect and this spring it Is exceptionally smart rbi ret r IM The coat on the figure at the right is dark blue taffeta trimmed with quilting in in tone self-tone and lined with bright red silk The more elaborate trimming on l the navy coat at the left consists of t f l colorful outlined led with decora decora- decorative I n five tive stitching a How This Cooly Cool I y and Very Youthful Youth- Youth Youthful eta J f ful ul Fabric Is Being Used Not Only for Evening Gowns and Afternoon Frocks but for the Most Novel Coats Wraps and Street Costumes In this Instance the red appears In the lining of the coat and in the red and gold tinsel braid that borders the ed edges es of the revers rovers Here again I have used quilting as as the main trimming It is in tone self and appears on the edges of the fronts around the bottom and on the cuffs An- An Another Another An Another other desirable feature of this wearable line straight line wrap is the scarf which may maybe maybe maybe be worn in a variety of the most intriguing intriguing guing ways The hat accompanying this wrap is l a youthful model of navy blue gros grosgrain ain silk one of the smartest fabrics of the he new season It has ha a high crown creased across the top and a brim that turns tarns sharply off the face in front There is no trimming as the material Itself is isso isso isso so decorative The other wrap in this picture Is In- In Intended in intended tended for formal afternoon wear While its silhouette is plain to the point of severity its ft trimming ia is unusually or- or ornamental ornamental or ornamental This consists of pieces of taffeta in flame color and green outlined with stitching in gold black and green The are cut in diamond shape and used to border the bottom and the lower portion of the sleeves In addition there arc are scrolls of colored stitching on the fronts and sleeves sleeves The Tho flame note is repeated in the crepe lining Other interesting features of this dis- dis distinguished dis distinguished wrap are the raglan line of at atthe the shoulders and the collar made of rolls roUs of the material braided together to form a thick standing band The smal hat worn orn with this beguiling outfit is navy blue felt felt trimmed at the silver embroidery ry The very narrow sides with ribbon and a bit of brim turns up in fn front and disappears entirely in back to allow for the standing collar The Tho footwear consists of biscuit colored biscuit colored kid shoes with sheer stockings the same shade Many of the smartest afternoon frocks are of stiff taffeta The majority of like basque these have bouffant skirts and basque like bodies When developed in black or navy blue and nd most of the taffeta afternoon dresses are carried out in these tones a brilliant trimming of some lome kind is invariably used The popular forms are arc embroidery and silk h li brilliant contrasting colors One very smart model worn by bya bya bya a well known New York debutante at a luncheon recently had a full skirt at- at attached attached at attached to a tight bodice at a low curving line the front a little higher than the back In the center front was a large bow ornamented with of van vari varicolored colored taffeta a combined with decorative stitching Black and white la is again a favorite combination many of the smartest tat taffeta taffeta feta and satin afternoon frocks being developed in this striking medium which always alwa's finds favor lavor with the most fash Lash fashionably dressed |