Show 1 r t 4 1 I t J 14 c p rl 1 it Yr N ti tin n Ms s SA uY J v V 4 a e a t i ia a tt r I I o p h i w If t R 1 1 yi w y I 1 II y I I 14 r t 4 t w Ii 1 J 4 t t tS tt S LI t Ii L I If D I fh 4 Y V r f A V r I Pleated pan t Typical of 01 the do 5 t w els below the popular Jl i pockets and mode is this black black 7 tl 1 pockets an arresting taffeta frock WIth r 1 v use 01 gold its widey wide panel p on F t and yellow y e o ow w the skirt short of 01 char char- charn n d ts stitching on el rs s both the bod A 11 r a ice and skirt II seed ered is in gold old black Mw hV are features I and tone tone self k n of 01 this char char- I afternoon crepe I the E EE spring mode is a mass of de de- de delightful TI light ul contradictions Straight Straight- Straight line I I line frocks vie Tie with bouffant con contours contour con tours tour and fluttering ng draperies of all kinds sober black and the tho more morn etring Ii I black and white combinations are matched b by models as colorful as a rain rain- rainbow rainbow bow how dresses ot of nun like primness are as fAvored of fashion as are the costumes ing elaborate and decorative trim trim- trimmings This diversity of both detail and sil eil eil- eil silhouette bonette e results in an n amazing vari variety ty of wearable models model The majority of these both the cia day and evening gowns are extremely youthful in appearance The return to a lets less complicated elle ell sil silhouette honette and the revival of straight lines are partly responsible for the young young- young looking appearance of so 50 many of the new costumes Simplicity is the keynote of of the new fashions a sophisticated simplicity that creates an as effect of both youth andele and ele- ele elegance ele elegance gance gance- The spring afternoon mode offers one cna onea a wide choice of silhouettes ai For tho boyish type tn of figure and and for forthe forthe forthe the bo woman who rho affects a tailored type ot of dressing th there n are arc slim m models with ith straight t ng lines If U a amore more feminine and elegant effect is do- do de desired sired Eind nothing is a so charming as WI the chiffon chiffon chiffon fon and d crepe featuring rippling details of aIll all kinds Wore More extreme reme are the draped models for afternoon wear Tear featured by several French designers designer's notably Drecoll These Thew have drapery massed at the front and soft bloused backs barks And finall finally there is h the new sew silhouette produced b by a a coat or dress dram that flares from the tha normal waistline to the sex hips in peplum effect Even greater is the range of fabrics First and foremost are aro cr crepes crepes pes These range n an the way say from faille to the soft crepe toms roma Georgette is used to a great extent for both the simple two two- two piece piece dress and the tha more elaborate flut fluttering model em Lelong is partial to this material us us- us using ing ing it for fer straight line line models that flare sharply from the hips To compensate tar far the ilie almod tailored lines limes of a frock of this kind are elaborate trim trim- trimmings trimmings of delicate beading and embroidery used to border the skirt and in panel effect in Crepe front Crepe satin is another mate mate- material material rial in high h gh favor on account of the charming effects made pos pos- possible pos possible sible by using both the dull and shiny sides tides Taffeta is being reo re- revived re revived by many designers its crisp and definite lines ideally adapted to the popular bouffant mode For formal afternoon occa oCca- occasions eions nothing is more appropriate appropriate ate than a frock of soft lace and as the season progresses we shall undoubtedly see fee a myriad of printed chiffon models Just now however the demand is for forthe forthe forthe the crepe weaves weaves and satin I have used four different fabrics for the four afternoon gowns shown to-day to Satin combined with crepe makes the black and white frock crepe Elizabeth the dress with the the em- em embroidered embroidered em embroidered broidered sleeves and faille crepe the gown with the pleated panels in front and taffeta the bouffant model with its ts embroidered section in the fr front nt of the skirt The Tho most striking of these is a a com com- combination combination of black satin and white crepe straight line Elizabeth This isa is a slender straight straight- line model with several arresting sting fee fee- features fea features tures three Chief among these is the use of two contrasting fabrics as well as ae two opposite tones The major portion of the gown is of the black crepe back u satin tin It is straight and sheath like in i its lines ines a n most welcome change from all the flared models for For the wide panel down the front and for the deep cuffs cutTs I have used white crepe Elizabeth These soft white sections are arc effectively trimmed with shaped V-shaped m motifs llis of small white pearl buttons In contrast co also to the many models is the narrow black and white belt on this dress dress worn at the top of the hips With this distinguished ed frock is worn M a Y r rY rM t 4 The soft sleeves th the thet thea t 4 ry v narrow belt and the a fluttering Buttering of 01 this jade ere c r e p e eThis eThis This distinguished distinguished distinguished- afternoon frock ar are afternoon n frock is is trimmed with deco deeo a smart pt embroidery in tion of black crepe i r violet red char char- satin and white and gold goldere a c ere t ep p e Elizabeth p Small pearl but but but- butt ci tons trim th the front t green crepe Elizabeth of the bodice and Its slim silhouette is is the deep cuffs cuDs a as broken only by two s on the front of a L an interesting hat a modified beret shape made of beige felt felt trimmed with black gr grosgrain ribbon The shoes are beige kid to repeat the not note of the hat bat with sheer stockings to match For jewels I would suggest suggest several strings of pearls and aid pearl earrings the cold luster of of these stones being in bary har moni mony with both t texture and tone tons of the crepe and button trimming The other black frock shown to-day to is quite di different in character It is a younger type type of dress a costume that should be in the wardrobe of every de- de debutante debutante de debutante Both its lines and trimming stress the note of youth and although black it presents an appearance any any- anything any anything thing but somber looking For this intriguing little dress I have used black taffeta combined with wilh char char- chartreuse chartreuse taffeta This latter fabric makes the panel in inthe the the front of the skirt which is elaborate elaborately embroidered in gold self self self- tone self tone and black in a large largo and small flower design In silhouette this youthful frock is typical of the popular bouffant mode Over a full gathered skirt is a long long- long bodice scalloped on the bottom It is sleeveless the wide deep collar forming the de sleeves eves The The edges of this O W 4 are also cut cutin eutin in in scalloped effect To accoro- accoro a pan peal p a n y this picturesque dress I have designed a ysmall shaped shaped cloche hat of t slack black satin faced with with flesh color color Its only trimming iss isa isa is s a soft frill of black lace which which falls falle over over the edges of of the brim on both sides The footwear consists of colored colored biscuit satin salin opera po pumps m ps with wilh stockings to I match t The other two frocks f shown dominant day to-day are more values dominant in their color values Both are green and andin andin andin in one I have used a very colorful trimmin trimming on the sleeves leeves around the neck and andon andon andon on the of the skirt The other is also notable for its use of brilliant stitching as well as for its graceful pleated panels on the sides of the skirt The most elaborate of these two gowns isa is is a veri very slender dender model of jade reao y ruma r i lafr a 61 the skirt portion i give the popular rippled line without in the least leat I a s detracting fro from f r o m the ther outline Narrow shoulders t ders ders and sleeves with only a mod moderate era t e amount of fullness further fM preserve the pe pencil like like ef- ef ef effect feet WA tom It is to the 1 trimming trimming trimming- j however that this dress owes its chief charm Decorative stitching in violet violet red chartreuse and andt t gold gives color and inter inter- interest interest est to the the sleeves belt and neckline The TheL 4 back of this frock in COin com coinman common mon man with many o 0 the t h e r models this season leason is per perfectly hC plain The hat is a em small all model b in tan felt trimmed with a ar gold composition ornament on one side to repeat the gold note of the embroider embroidery Quite different in tone is the other green afternoon costume photographed on this page Itis It is faille crepe in a deli deli- delicate deli delicate cate chartreuse shade one of the smart smart- smartest smartest smartest est colors of spring 1 t 4 J Here again ogain I have hove used sed decorative contrasting stitching in this instance in ingold ingold ingold gold and yellow silk silk This This his trimming is used in a large motif on the front of the bodice on the pockets sleeves and narrow collar in an int interesting resting diamond diamond- shaped diamond shaped pattern It adds color and an effective note of contrast without im- im impairing im ins impairing pairing the the youthful simplicity of the dress TM The Th popular animated silhouette is i here achieved with pleated panels below the tho pockets A narrow belt tied in front front fronta a flattering dropped shoulder line and a V shaped neckline are further desirable features ea t ures The hat is a small shape of the new crochet straw in in the same chartreuse tone as the dress The strapped slippers are light tan and the stockings a paler shade of the same color Decorative sleeves are arc an important item in the new mode Frequently the only ornamentation appears on the 61 sleeve eve portion every known device being employed by designers both her here and abroad to give interest to this section of the costume Embroidery beading of silk or leather the combination of two trimmings as well as sleeves of con contrasting material are all used in tion connection with afternoon dresses of dark crepe or satin Occasionally the same trimming is ie found on another part of the dress each soch as a sash eash end panel or in a band around the neckline Skirts on both afternoon dresses dressea and street costumes are short The waistline when it does occur is slightly higher shoulders are narrow and necklines ran range go all the way from deep adeep V to a high turnover collar a Sleeves are short long tight or loose according to the character of the dress 1 a I |