| Show t Subtle Simplicity Pervades the Winter Mode Mode t By SARA MARSHALL ARSHALL M COOK t f rf jjr i h j j I- I IJ J I-I I i I JI J I It f 4 I t t t n I J et 1 1 a aY r- r 1 I 1 01 t Fir Y l lr lS L r S t fi fix x 14 tr I J l- l lf t J f f i J 1 y 1 lt- lt ft f r 1 i 1 tJ k JM I l r fA t r 1 Li i r r I r L rR nit d d I L f kR M- M if 1 f fr t r s e er ei r I R M Cari J NI f s r 8 ly Z lJ i j i if f f r jr s I iI r Jf lf I 1 st f Y b to ti yi ry ii 11 M t t d t t G s f fr r rah Wl- Wl t il q d 1 Il d f i lit f t I 1 of fl l r s I sA A 4 r i r ri JI I tt i a as s fat t r 1 rI i P t l I 1 r of VJ 1 x t r ra r s r t y v ate j jyl IL t I T t j hf S St t A J f r rJ J Ti TiOne One of tle-ar tle Ge d dresses the sash as hid ane and dress made rod in 1 A Gk one and anda a nd a bronx grcen satin model the fro front t c f the l bodIce a in a successIon succession of hoo hood II like ICe folds and the ac a hood i Clever Designs Include Jabot and Scarf and acid Cape CaIe CaI e Draperies HE important French de- de designers de designers THE HUE ll signers al ar aie e rn rivaling aim each other in creating ci eating simple simple motels sometimes intriguingly simple Sim- Sim Simple sim simple and at other times simple sim- sim pie Ls r I Madeleine has fairly out out- outdone outdone outdone done herself along these lines De- De Beginning Be Beginning ginning with the tha ado of the complicatedly simple one must mutt first cite her dresses which show wrinkled fronts the jabot effects and sear scarf and cape draperies Each Dach of these seeming accessories ordinarily ordinarily ordinarily sewn on as liS an adornment is isnow isnow isnow now become a component part of the dress that is to sa say it is cut rn one with Ith the dress This designer more mOle than any other maker in m Pans Palls lias has an I ex-I ex- ex extraordinary ex extraordinary aptitude for fot the thc seam seam- seamie seamless less ie s lobe robe Imagine a dress witha with Ith Itha a cape which cape instead of being cut separately and nicely adjusted across the tre shoulders in rn the old old fashioned fashioned vas v a as is continuous with the front of the frock 01 of which in- in instead in instead stead of rounding out at the neck or being cut in III a square or pointed line 1111 keeps on for at least cast another three three- three quarters quartel s off o its 1 length Il th This long end shapes out auto nto a tort sort of bat batwing batwing wing effect which t twists around III the neck at its nano narrowest est joint point goes across the back and hitches up up at atone atone atone one side tide on the shoulder thus being transformed into a cape Wing Bat Effects hl Form Farm Jabot Backs r SOMETIMES SOMETIMES there are two of these bat wing 1111 effects one con con- continuous con continuous with the front and the other continuous with the back 1 they hey both to go across to one shoulder there here the they flare in an exaggerated jabot cape This idea IS 13 very Cry successfully worked out in III the double way aay v ay on a coat which is straight and fastens fattens at one side aide and has as its distinctive note this peculiar arrangement making it half halt scarf and half halt cape has dresses worked out with I this continuous jabot jabots the dress itself being apparently of the sim simplest chemise form but the jabot which hangs bangs both in the th back and in fn the front Is the novel feature Many dres dresses es of this character are arc developed de from black satin with Ith an Identical jabot back and front The straight dress is encircled a soft girdle which conceals the seam scam The long tight sleeves are cut with Ith a sort of handkerchief point at the wrist wiit I bt these being di 11 a awn n together by knotting the en ends s of she flan mg like cuff-like e e 0 k ns e j I I II I irk r x s f- f o w r I 1 t tV tA V A J 4 J Jp p I I d n a 4 r 1 I f fM M I iy J Jt t T 9 r rs ri s 4 f i Ai fAi 4 it I IS III II S r V Vr Vt t V 5 l f dl I r r s t tI tt t t t of Model of lammer hammered d t antique g o 0 I d metal cloth n arili 11 a gold beads bead embroidered band in inthe inthe s the form of ofa a Y down the he bad b a Cr G f fG 1 Evening dress of white crepe white crepe with silver embroideries The wide cut cu circular falls in rippling points which are slashed so sa deeply that when the wearer walks her knees nees are arc exposed Another favorite scarf trImming on a simple dress is a sort of bias strip fully one and one one- one half halt half yards al ds long which is adjusted in III scarf like fashion across the shoulder or is knotted at one on side on the shoulder It is entirely free across the front and only attached at the back of the th dress This model IS varied by a scarf-end scarf pendant from the girdle which corresponds with Ith the neck scarf Another curious variation from the perfectly straight line is a dress so cut that the front forms a II series of draped folds like a hood This is done by means of a bias seam down n the center front Two Colors Color Or Fabrics Used In a Single Model A A SIMILAR arrangement Is t worked out in a bib effect rounded at the th corners and formed ot of alternating bands of two too tv 0 shades of crepe A typical model is ii illustrated illus illus- illustrated illustrated second from the left at the top of today's day to-day ays ay's page It is developed from bronze green satin The front ot of the th bodice bodic falls talIs In a succession of hood like folds while the th b back ck is isa isa isa a hood Very Vel are arc color two color dresses her two two fabric dresses and her two surfaced dresses that is fa to say she ah will use black and red satin utin tin together or a metal cloth and a high color satin or a satin surface crepe in one on tone but will combine the tho two surfaces that Is ii part of the th dress dres will be a satin finish and the th remainder crepe One On model is I made mad with mth a low Aline waistline v ai bodice fairly snug fitting and shaped under the nuns arms This is isI I cut in eight square end slashes I something like the Walls of Tro Troy pattern The Th scanty circular skirt is cut so that the slight godet full full- fullness fullness ness seems to come out between bet the slashes This Thi model S is s developed de eloped in all black nith v Ith a red satin bodIce and a black satin skirt and in an evening dress dres of three tones of rose chiffon shading from the very ery pal pal- palest pal palest est cst tone to a a deep rosy red It is also made with a printed velvet elvet bodice and a black velvet CIvet skirt The surplice effect is achieved in ina ina a decisive a way manages to gIVe it a scarf effect by lea leaning certain points free At the shoulder scans scam where here these ends pass around the neck and knot at the back in a little bow the they simulate the th tIed ends of a handkerchief The front of this dress is slightly blousing at ata ata ata a very cry low waistline where here the wIde I surplice front crosses On the straight skirt is hung a small tab tab her I her or apron also split down the front This is an ideal dinner dress and is most frequently made mad in black satin The Th sleeves in is this model are arelong arelong long and fairly tight fitting and show a slight bell shape ship at the The Surplice Idea In Evening Dreese THIS surplice Idea is f I shown tn to the tho th evening dress of embossed gold IrOld cloth which is Illustrated at the th low law lover er left of the th page It t Is developed d from hammered amigos gold metal cloth The Th surplice front fran is slightly blousing but the extremely back is II s straight and nd outlined with a agold agold agold gold bead embroidered band which nil forma forme a Y shaped Y-shaped ornament The open ends end of the th Y form farm the th shoulder der straps and the tho th long end of the th Y makes the narrow panel of the th cen en- enter cen- cen center center ter back All this Is done in closely set antique guld bends be old This Thui dress w o orv rv 7 1 Above 4 bove at left left-A Callot model of white satin combined with reel red elaborately embroidered in red blue and gold At A right dress ams made in five shades of mauve crepe The scarf which finishes the neck and the s scar arf girdle are in shades hades of mauve is entirely sleeveless and of course Is to be worn with the th figure figur acted Another big feature is the dress of at faced double-faced satin crepe deco deco- decorated decorated decorated rated in geometrical designs show the tho alternating surfaces of satin and crepe Innumerable dresses of this kind are shown in bronze green in beige in hunters hunter's green and in black Some of these have cape backs with Ith long jabot ends on either side Use of Two Surfaces Simulates Patch Work OTHERS of these geometrically patterned ned dresses es show the or- or ornamentation or ornamentation on the bodice alone alon or oron oron oron on both bodice and skirt Parallelograms grams and squares oddly placed make up this curious decoration The geometrical designs are ar like crazy patch work the th material be- be being be being ing sewn together when reversing the side to give gJ this marked pattern after which the th dress is cut from the fabric thus adorned Also included in III collection collection collection tion are ara dresses where the mat surface cut in design is sev sewn n nto to a brilliant one on with invisible im hand stitching It was in this way nay that her jungle jungi and floral dresses were made last season There Is fa another type of dress which swathes the figure and is tied directly In front with ith a bow and ends which are ar a part of the th body of the dress There Ther Is 1 no seam earn except a bias blaa one down the th center front and back It is I only possible to cut such sucha a dress from the th yard two-yard wide wid fab fabric rip rica ric which practically con eon controls troIs in the th Paris market One On ot of these tie around dresses is Illus Ulus- illustrated Illustrated at tho the upper left of ot the sketch It is la developed from satin surface crepe erp do chine chin with the shiny hinT side lido sid out oat Her for Jabot dresses lire are ar of ot endless variety One of her most popular and practical dresses is II a straight chemise dress with a wide wid panel plait down the center back The front of ot the th bodice has a full fall ripple jabot extending entirely across the front of the dress with a V neck opening This looks something like a great rippling bib This dress is tightly belted at the waistline Widely Lapping Fronts Which Make a Jabot REPEATING very much the same sam idea is a black velvet et coat with widely idely lapping fronts which form fonn single or double jabots according to whether the coat is worn open or closed A new evening dress is in green velvet combined with ith gold cloth cIoth This is a simple low waistline bodice strapped at intervals internals with bands band of the gold cloth cIoth to the green vel vet vel-vet net Ct Th circular The circular cut skirt skirt hangs from a low waistline and has a deep facing of ot gold cloth This dress has the simplest possible line but its beautiful coloring and skillful use of two fabrics lends its great charm Another new model which ex ex presses simplicity in even even- evening ven-ing ven Ing gowns is shown at the center ot of days day's days to-day's page This model Is devel developed from white Crepe crep with silver embroideries Tho The wide wid cut circular circular lar skirt falls faIls in rippling points about the th feet These Thes points almost touch the floor and yet at the th same time are so deeply slashed that when the wearer walks alks w alks her knees nees knees are cx- cx ex exposed posed ballot allot keeps to simplicity from frons a standpoint of ot line but continues to tous use marvelous embroideries rivaling even those thos of the th Orient One On of her newest dresses Is Illustrated di- di directly di dl directly to the left of ot the model just described It is GIs developed from white satin and red silk ellk with mth dab elaborate orate embroideries of t red blue bin and gold covering long panels pans clo closely ely set s together over the th red satin foundation tion to form not only the th skirt but also the th shower shoner ends of t the Ori Oriental On girdle a |
