Show hiir 1111 hat firmat fily alts are and contents D kius till farther fat fira fomo binl t co alert llert A walling tot familiar felrom nur I 1 it is with a mingled feeling ot awe anil expectation that one lor lie line approaches if 10 has tome acro europe the old of hie chine the walls anat of and the many ruins seen all along the nay haie partially prepared larn for abe old and the bist but constantinople ia more glnn that this city vaa old before long babore alie castles of germany acra thought of alie city of constantine as it is now called a alie armen 10 tongue up a holand hou and recollections to the student ie to aea ai lie looks from clift deck of bis steamer at its hundred on its many hills ware after wave of war and diee and slaughter sweep over ita old walls and gales even now magnificent in tasir ruin lie bees the proud xerxes attempting 0 chain the rushing currents 0 abe lie feels he earth tremble auder the tread of the barbarians of abe coith as they down upon the enervated culture and on of the south but besides all this he is now to get his firt glimpse of the orient the land of fables of arabian nights and ot ft ill fancier lie is sep out of lie pale of western civil izilor into tha border land where all raes all customs all civilizations met it is another world to him ho hears strange and unheard of languages eliken and tees every style of dress from the dervish ft ith a single scanty filthy cloth about his loins to the dude french min rigged oat with all the baill of hia tailor arm it is a crowd one meets upon the bridge that joins tha old city of or ai it was once called arb tha modern city of iera all a part of abe great constantinople ti tarra la not a nation on bartu aliat baa not its s here upon thia bridge and each in his native dress abe aud alie errek the jap and the indian the chinese and the egyptian the priest and the peasant the ruler of abe faithful and the pickpocket abe eno basa adora of all the world and the leper begar thief and all jostle one here at ten faras a head on one side h the stir and whirl of the nineteenth century while from the other come the odors of the must of abe middle ages this is the dominion of the sultan where are today to day being fought the battles bean een the old and the new between learning leir ning and legend between science and superstition if one comes directly to constantinople without passing idaly his first impression is that he has reached alia doga and beg gara paradise where all good dc gi and bag ears have been forwarded since tnie agan to edit audi works persons who fear dogs abid carnot endure abe of deformed humanity should by no means enter the emporium of these wares much sympathy Is botn squandered upon ihssen deformed specimens 0 man for frequently they deform themselves for the sake of the gain it brings and their name is worth more at lie bank than is that of their benefactor who drops a coin into their cup from his faie carriage will not spend much time in gong over the city tor we ourselves havo been it daiy tindes beffre ar d a thousand tourists have written of its its beauties and its slums we will turn our backs upon this two thousand years of history those mora than one million inhabitants human I 1 mean abe others w tarry the problem up bamond arithmetic into higher these minareta min areti abid fezzes and ruins grand old saint sophia ane m ny majern lit lenng pala cei the oriental aniell eni ell the low mud houses the narrow filthy streets we will lene all thesa thing with which you are already so familiar and turn our fuei toward the rising sun the true orient about which oa have heard little 01 nothing tor tourists never attempt to penetrate the mysteries and bisto have not yet found out the ro id this way you can depend upon it that chofe who trawl for pla auie do not go east by the bialk sea roue to beat their own and make their own maps the route no have chosen will take us the length of tho blaik sea some one may think of tars sea aa of not much account I 1 n lt simply say eliat it is long enough to reich from boston to cincinnati ohio or from to tha blai k lailla or nearly from denser to sin fraacisco it la indeed a sea but ith not an enviable name foe like borne men when it excited it seems to be stirred all through yh and I 1 hae sen s en it but once t hen it was not aroused borne haie that tha black belongs to its nature not ita color few would dispute the point by consulting one of alie daily pa poof con that a line of steamers ply the black sea porta we engage a state room and send our roods on board aten we came to embark a few hours lalar we found our anchored out in alie middle of tha golden horn with no provision made for to get there we lure one of the email boats that are lying such and fet out when about to go ap alie ladder a uniformed official af the turkish persuasion invited ua to let him read our passports we tike out with considerable flourish the large firm dable sheet bearing the Amer caa cale that screams our name office age hair and all and pass it over along with another document in constantinople Constanti cople that looked like a chinese puzzle w ork birds tracks and spots on the eun the document the official seriously studied bottom eide ap the second he road over and finally pronounced bah faa ia factory asked or a pie piment ent and lot ua proved As ve ve little imagined to what extent our were to be tried our keener sensibilities shocked all araon from my youth op I 1 had regarded first come birst semd hemd as the tal truth of all tha figun dalion cf our an almoas alie ined nucleus of pur religion I 1 had that tills principle waa unchangeable bile governments govern menta rise and fill and empires aenk former but what did I 1 land in my I 1 not my baggage b it two areat it was warm wc ither hue cloaked heavy be kiili shioo goei high turned up and deep on broi idine c moteram uj vere in alie baloon under alie cars of my beay m alicy had born damped there when toalson eile and nhen he ramon gyrated with tho captain he came near ecklind thrown overboard tor ua trouble I 1 sought in early to alie r of the ship and after I 1 bad given ami brief and disconnected extracts of a fourth of july t anun extempore or ajon in french turkish fand ang akl all theether toE ether accompanied by th proper vestures ses tures and accentuations ha hastened haat ened to my stateroom and told the two turks that he had made a sad mistake in assigning their lord chipi to blat particular room a it had already been taken contrary to his know ledge was a lie by a high official of the unite states gov another lie and BO they would to transfer their bellei and thereof to another room math better in every way than the present one lie no 1 BO eliat the great aad honorable a la frank american may have his room I 1 was satisfied this little pave arte rte great upon that trip the jwj were men of importance and the coptain must show me honor in order to oat riia story to them they must know that I 1 was a bigger man than they or they donld como dmn upon the for ex them from their room it is sufficient to aay that I 1 carried out my role to hie ot the turks and all concerned these men did not doubt or question my high rank and official they mere in total ignorance as to what my govern amt business was and why I 1 traveled inco without uniform and a large retinue of attendants I 1 kept them veil confused by my mysterious and evasive replies when MC separated they viere undecided whether I 1 was going to buy up for the united states government the southern section of russia or whether my commission w as to campeta com peta an alliance with persia against lie ottoman rule in turk y they are possibly the matter ret let me my readers right liere that we aro now in a country where there is no democracy and ft here mans importance and rank are measured hy external appearances alone by the way ha sets himself up above all others and orders around everybody whom he regards as beneath him it would socially fatal to a man to enter a room where men were and sit don n near the door or as they put it here upon a low seat by your leave 1 I beg your pardon etc etc are all left behind at constantinople to be called tor on our return wo shall hav e no present need for these cinatl human nature we are where they are not appreciated and understood aliey are a drag in the market A man an ordinary man I 1 mean who would nuke use oft liesa terms in the oriental world would be set down at once by the masei mas ei as alow born adlow who would p ob asking for money it allowed any privileges at all language from hei eon must ba in the imperative mode present tense in bold face type with no gilt order the captain dictate to the fr hward call your servant a daiy good for nothing do in a lone that can be hear the ship it any body alses servant comes near tell him to tit which is good turkish if not real or you will have him thrashed it alie captain says anything about contradict conradi ct him tell him you know beter but dant tell him blut you know it a turkish official peaks of politics call him an ass fur not knovick more abat his otto country if a mallch speaks his religion tell him ho hid better read up the books of islam batora be a bis ignorance before un believers keep up style and you will ba re gardel the largest mai in that com pa nymore especially if you can make some show of wealth such aa a brass watch and chan a nog or two with some colored glass set in them a fur overcoat fur inside and gold eye glasco gla seo it is to ba compelled to acknowledge that in the most enlightened countries men beame great by these same means su h is human nature it makes all the world akin one of my servants is a linguistic curiosity he is an armenian by birth aej hence speaks tint language aall and like all born in tins part of alie cauntay cau knorra turk iba when about 18 airs of age he spent some gwehe in kusan time in gidek settlement aej thin lea an to speak aan and greek scon after his return home he secure J a government position as benvent to the aoh voh of where he learned arabic this voll was transferred bh where our man learned Koun lish he after this returned to constantinople and servant to the consulate to paris and there he picked up french this eave him a epa aking acquaintance with seven languages I 1 can teat fy that he three of very well indeed lie turn from oue to the other without any trouble whatever he ft as very desirous 0 learning english be eaid if lie coald be where it was spoken be could master it in three months I 1 do not doubt that be would do so it was a most fortunate mag for me that I 1 secured the services of euch linguist as this fla will appear later on 1 am confident that his many tongues saved my life to this dragoman linguist traveler ex official and servant 1 contracted to pay the salary of two pounds saco per month and board his name was magerdich Mo gerdich pronounced mugar aitch and which by interpretation mean eth the babist Ba my other servant was alao armenia who spoke only armenian and turkish ilia name was mardiros abe martyr but I 1 cane ty the on that he was all right and I 1 was the martyr before be bad been with me a week of all men that not be made to understand plain orders and w ho could in ent excuses for not obeying then when understood that mn the Martyr standa head and above them all ho will much profanity to answer f r hereafter I 1 tear I 1 my elf hiving spent borne years in the ea I 1 was familiar with armenian and knew some after a comfortable six days sail it you can call a ch p ee a comfort we approached the pat 0 long ciuca nude f by xenophon and his ten thousand e w ere now out of the beaten tracks of tourists and travelers where footprints are rarer than honest orientals Orient als and where familiar sounds and customs aad 1 fa do not appear at alla etense land to the western word M |